T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1042.1 | < it's that time of year again> | VICKI::MILNE | | Wed Nov 09 1988 15:48 | 10 |
|
We have an Atomic 4 , 30 hp in our Hinckley Sou'west Jr. Your
mechanic is right, keep the engine running with antifreeze going
thru the intake hose until you see antifreeze coming out the exhaust.
Another thing to do is put some mistery oil in the spark plugs-
helps a little with rust and prevents the rings from sticking.
Mary Ellen
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1042.2 | Atomic 4 Winterization | UNIVSE::CAHILL | | Wed Nov 09 1988 15:54 | 8 |
| The amount of antifreeze required depends on the size/volume of
your exhaust system. Older vertical shell and tube types often
require more antifreeze. The best advice is to continue to run
(taking in antifreeze) until you see a solid color change at the
exhaust port. At $7 per gal. it is the cheapest insurance you
can buy for the engine and exhaust system.
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1042.3 | Re-circulate until sure | CSMADM::SCHLEGEL | | Wed Nov 09 1988 17:18 | 17 |
| Another approach (that I use on my atomic 4) is to remove the exhaust
rubber hose from the exhaust line and return the water/anti-freeze
into the same bucket you are taking the intake water out of. First,
I run the exhaust hose into another bucket until anti-freeze comes
out, then use the first bucket. In this manner, you
are then recirculating the anti-freeze, ensuring that a good 50/50
mix is in the engine, and the engine warms up more quickly. I run
the engine all Winter, about once a month, when-ever the weather
is warm enough. In this manner, I avoid having to fog the engine, etc.
Running the engine for 5 to 10 minutes does not over-heat the exhaust
hose, but does circulate oil, flex the impellers,etc. It is the
easiest way to "Winterize" an engine. Good luck with your atomic
4. (Incidently, I added fresh water cooling , which comes as a
kit for the atomic 4.) The above approach still applies for the
salt water side, though. Fresh water cooling keeps salt/rust out of
the block, if you are not familiar with f.w.c.
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1042.4 | Use fresh Anti-freeze and..... | NRPUR::ALLETZHAU | | Wed Nov 16 1988 15:18 | 13 |
| Regarding reply #3...
DO NOT FORGET TO ADD WATER TO THE ANTI-FREEZE....! I did my first
year and filled up my old one lunger on just anti-freeze and cracked
the water jacket. A nasty, and costly lesson. I was not aware
that anti-freeze, by itself, would freeze so make sure you add at
least 50% water. You can imagine your surprise next spring when
getting ready for launch, you see your power source "smiling" at
you in a way you had not noticed before!
Good luck!
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1042.5 | | ABE::HASKELL | | Fri Nov 18 1988 14:21 | 22 |
| Some say to use anti-freeze, others say to use a 50/50% mixture
because if I just use anti-freeze my water jacket will crack. I
have used 1 1/2 gals of PRESTONE only until it came out the exhaust
port.
I am not aware that antifreeze will freeze and crack the block.
HELP! HELP!
WHO IS RIGHT?
At this time my block is filled with plain antifreeze, batteries
are in storage, head and water systems drained and winterized, and
the boat covered and secured for the long winter nap.
Have I screwed up in my procedures/
Advise, Please, And Thanks
PAul
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1042.6 | does the label help? | MSCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Fri Nov 18 1988 14:37 | 4 |
| er, ah, doesn't the label on the Prestone jug give the information you
want? if not, why not call Prestone?
|
1042.7 | More is not better | AHOUSE::GREIST | | Fri Nov 18 1988 15:55 | 8 |
| The label will show the protection available for various dilutions of the
antifreeze. The best protection ( lowest temperature) is at about 50 %
dilution. This is a case of more ( antifreeze) is not better.
Al
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1042.8 | Mixtures show freezing point depression
| CLT::FANEUF | | Mon Nov 21 1988 10:33 | 12 |
| Antifreeze typifies common behavior of mixtures - that the freezing point is
depressed from the freezing point of either component. For ethlene glycol and
water, the maximum depression occurs at about 50% dilution, but this isn't true
of all mixtures. Most antifreeze containers have a little table showing the
amount of protection at several different dilutions, and the difference between
no dilution and 50% is pretty dramatic (about 30 degrees F or more).
Note the same phenomenon applies to metals, which is why solder melts at a much
lower temperature than either lead or tin.
Ross Faneuf
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1042.9 | You NEED to be LUCKY ! | MENTOR::REG | these specs are only for reading... | Tue Nov 22 1988 10:58 | 10 |
| re .5 Who is right ? Well, I am, of course.
Yes, you screwed up. Straight anti freeze MIGHT be slightly better
than water, but don't count on it. You've probably chucked the
jug that had the neat little table that others have refered to,
next time "read the _______ instructions", etc.
RECOMMENDATION: Take a sick day and get down there SOOOON !
R {Happy sailing; hope its not too late}
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1042.10 | | ABE::HASKELL | | Wed Nov 23 1988 08:21 | 14 |
| I'll be going down the day after thanksgiving to rewinterize the
engine.
Many thanks for all the inputs
Yes your right, I didn't read the ________________________instructions,
I just assumed the more the betterer, after all when I take my car
to the garage to have antifreeze put in, all I ever saw them do
was pour raw antifreeze into the radiator.
Oh well, I'm still learning
paul
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1042.11 | | SMAUG::LINDQUIST | | Wed Nov 23 1988 11:26 | 9 |
| According to FIRST BRANDS, which is the manufacturer of
PRESTONE, the freezing point of pure antifreeze is -8� F.
The directions recommend not exceeding a mixture of 70%
antifreeze.
So, I guess more is not always better.
- Lee
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1042.12 | Mush is better | CECV03::WARDROP | | Wed Nov 23 1988 11:53 | 10 |
| What about the "failure mode"? I believe anti-freeze, or a mix, tends
to freeze as a mush instead of hard ice. This may pop freeze plugs
and make a mess but isn't likely to do substantial damage.
Also, you may have a hard time getting the exact mixture desired
throughout the block. I think you are better off to err on the
rich side for reasons stated above.
Rick,
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1042.13 | | ABE::HASKELL | | Mon Nov 28 1988 09:38 | 13 |
| Well. I rewinterized the bloddy engine last Friday. I was able to
get two gallons of 60/40% mixture through the engine.
I sure hope this will do it for this season.
I sure learnt a lesson.
Many thanks for all your inputs. Now if I could only get rid of
the iron sail completely.
Paul
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1042.14 | Dry plugs after fogging? | WONDER::BRODEUR | | Tue Nov 19 1991 11:57 | 16 |
| After just winterizing my atomic 4 this past weekend I have a question.
My procedure consists of flushing the cooling system with fresh water
for "a while" and then just before I stop the motor I add antifreeze
(about a 50/50 mix) until it starts exiting the exhaust. While
circulating the antifreeze I fog the engine a little by pouring a small
amount of Mystery oil down the carb. When the exhaust turns green I
CHOKE the engine with mystery oil till it stops. I'm assuming this
gives most of the internals a good coating. I then pulled the plugs to
insure the cylinders got fogged. The first 2 plugs I pulled were wetter
then my deck in 10 foot seas! The last 2 (I pulled them in order from
front to back) were dry! Does this indicate some sort of problem or
were the 2 dry plugs just the last 2 that fired before the engine died?
This almost makes sense to me but I figured Ide get another opinion.
Anyone?
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1042.15 | | MSCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Tue Nov 19 1991 12:21 | 14 |
| >>> When the exhaust turns green .....
Uh, are you using Prestone or something similar? And is the antifreeze
getting onto the ground? This is a definite no-no. Prestone (and other
ethylene gycol antifreeezes) are toxic, and the EPA is, I hear, taking
action against boatyards that allow the stuff to reach the environment.
Better to use (full-strength) the non-toxic antifreeze used for drinking
water systems.
>>> The first 2 plugs I pulled were wetter then my deck in 10 foot seas!
Wet with what? Gasoline, oil, water? Regardless, sounds like a possible
problem.
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1042.16 | wet with OIL | WONDER::BRODEUR | | Tue Nov 19 1991 13:25 | 12 |
| First things first. I catch the exhaust so as not to spew my prestone
onto the ground. I'm a good boy.
Second, I guess I didn't make things real clear. The wet plugs are
wet with Mystery oil which is what I would expect. Since I literally
choke the engine with the oil till it stalls, I assume things will get
rather oily. The fact that 2 plugs come out dry after all this is what
bothers me a bit. As I said, the 2 wet ones were dripping with oil
while the other 2 looked "normal". Would the fact that the dry two
fired before the next intake stroke occured account for this? Thats my
guess.
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