| Good idea. After nine years the rubrail on our boat has a few minor
dings and a major gouge. Our rubrail is actually foam cored fiberglass
about two inches wide and about an inch high. Bolted to this is a 3/4 x
1-1/2 inch teak strip. The rail does need to extend from the hull a ways
to provide good protection. Based on my experience, I'd suggest one of
two things. Either use teak (oiled) for the rubrail or screw a metal
strip (either stainless or bronze) to the outer face of the rubrail. If
you just paint the rubrail, you'll have to repaint promptly every time
you bang the rail against something. When I put the major gouge in my
rubrail I simply sanded the gouge smooth and faired it into the
undamaged rail. The hollow can't be seen from 10 feet away. If there'd
been a metal protective strip, I'd have had to replace a section of the
strip. Our rubrail is 8 or 10 inches below the sheer at the widest part
of the hull (which has some tumblehome).
Alan
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| As Alan suggests, you probably want a rub rail to stand proud of the hull
and all other trim. Unless you have a lot of topside flare at decklevel,
or a toerail/caprail that projects quite a way, it should be possible to
add a rubstrake that will hit a vertical surface before any other part of
the boat does.
Also, look carefully at your sheerline -- deck or bulwark -- and if you
have a wale or walestripe, carefully measure how the width between those
changes. Chances are you may want to increase the distance below the
toerail/caprail *slightly* at the ends (more at the bow than stern
usually) to preserve the balanced proportions. This even applies to
comparing the sheer and waterline if your boat has a noticeable sheer.
Check out the magazine illustrations, especially the sideview renderings
which don't have any photographic distortions to hide the fact. Were I to
consider do this to a boat of my own, I'd get a sideview in several
copies, as large a scale as practical (1:10 perhaps) and sketch in various
options to see what looks best. You really can affect your vessel's
appearance with such an addition, and so it might as well be to the
better!
J.
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| The boat's a Sea Sprite 23. She's designed by Alberg so she's got
a pretty sheer that I dont want to ruin. I'll give the Ryder folks
a call to see if they can provide some side views. The boat has a cove
stripe that should give some clues as to how to place a rubstrake.
Actually, the rubstrake may have to go over the cove stripe to avoid
a "busy" look. Freeboard at the cockpit is close to 2' so there's not
a lot of room to play with. Fortunately my wife has a good design
eye and will make sure I don't ruin Zendia's lines.
Thanks,
Ed
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