| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 811.1 | Try Car paint colour restorer ? | CHEFS::GOUGHP | Pete Gough @REO (7)-830-6603 | Mon Apr 25 1988 13:32 | 7 |
| Don't know if it helps but in UK you can buy a product called TCUT
it is for restoring faded paint work on cars......... I helped someone
in the marina go over a faded blue hull this year and after using
the TCUT we applied a standard boat wax. The result was very rewarding.
We used an electric drill with a buffing attachment for the final
polish.
|
| 811.2 | Gel Gloss | CSSE::COUTURE | Abandon shore | Mon Apr 25 1988 13:35 | 13 |
| Try Gel Gloss, a liqued available from Sommerville Lumber, Spags,
etc. It removes most of the surface stains and chalking. However,
"this is not a wax." After buffing out the Gel Gloss, you will
need to apply two or three coats of something like Meguiars Mirror
Glaze.
I'm a big believer in electric buffers. The best thing I've found
is a Black and Decker 8" orbital buffer with a nylon mesh pad for
application. The soft wool-kike pads seem to work best for applying
the Meguiars.
Encore
|
| 811.3 | It builds up your shoulders! | EBBV01::CASWELL | | Mon Apr 25 1988 13:57 | 23 |
|
To get the shine back you must first strip the old wax completely
off, otherwise your just buffing that off. Go to your local auto
paint store and get a gallon of "Gre-Klean" grease-wax-silicone (about
$9 to $11, depends where you get it.)solvent. Just use a clean rag
and a liberal amount a wash the wax off your boat (the person I bought
my boat from must have waxed the hull in direct sunlight, because half
his old wax job was still un-buffed).
Next, if your gel-coat is still real dull get a good orbital
polisher and a marine fiberglass rubbing compound at go lightly
over the gel-coat.
If the gel-coat does'nt look that bad get a can of the new
"Boat" wax from Turtle. Put a liberal amount on and rub it in real
good. Then buff it out by hand with a good clean soft cotton cloth.
I just finished doing my (1978) 23' Paceship, it looked like it was
10 years old. Now it looks like it just left the production line!
Randy
P.S. My wife said that I would die if I said "Wax on, Wax off" one
more time!
|
| 811.4 | Boutique wax...for your baby | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Mon Apr 25 1988 14:08 | 23 |
| I have been through about a zillion diferent brands of cleaners
and waxes over the last 10 years, looking for the marine equivilant
of the old Blue Coral wax (not the new whimpy polymers by the same
name).
This year I stumbled onto a cleaner and separate wax by an outfit
called Collinite (or something very close). The cleaner removes
oxidized finish, old wax and stains faster than anything I have
ever used (including my previous fave Formula 5) other than
sandpaper. The wax applies very easy, and can be a challenge to
buff if the weather isnt right, but I cannot remember a better feel
or shine once done. It also has the feel of a wax that will stand
up with time.
The only place I know of that has it is Trident Marine in Warwick,
and their supply is limited. Steve at Trident bought some for his
boat last year and decided to get a few extra bottles this year.
By the way, if the gelcoat is very far gone due to lack of proper
UV protective waxes and care, dont expect miracles. When gelcoat
deteriorates, it suffers from lots of pinholes which combine to
leave the surface looking hazy no matter how much you polish.
|
| 811.5 | More suggestions | TALLIS::RICKARD | | Mon Apr 25 1988 15:05 | 53 |
| I started using the collinite wax (.re -1) last spring and this
weekend after completing the wax job someone asked if my boat was
new (it's 4 years old!). If that is the name of the wax, I got
it at Boat US in Waltham. It is labeled as aircraft/marine grade
wax and though I didn't believe the label it has proven to be tough.
I waxed the boat in the fall and after cleaning the black streaks
on Saturday wasn't sure I even needed to apply more wax but did
it anyway.
I also found a new cleaner - Simple Green; it is rather expensive
but lifts off dirt like no other cleaner I've ever used and I've used
lots of cleaners.
I don't have a chaulking problem on my boat but I've always used
the Starbrite liquid compound to clean real tough stains and it
is real gentle on the gelcoat. Friends used the paste compound
and it didn't take much to go through the gelcoat such that the
fiberglass began showing through - the gelcoat is not terribly thick.
(well it did take some years to do that but still it is very abrasive,
soft scrub is also very abrasive and I use bon ami on the deck now
because it is less abrasive).
I heartily recommend a scaffolding when working on cleaning and
waxing the topsides. I have a Little Giant ladder which is truly
the finest ladder I have ever seen. It extends to a two story high
ladder, folds in the middle to make a very tall step ladder, the
ends come off the main swivel section to make two step ladders which
then become two ends of the scaffold. I have a wide wide 2" board that
fits onto the two step ladders and I can do a quarter of the boat
without moving ladders. I can adjust the height of the board so that
I am directly opposite all the work (except at the very bow where I
put the Little Giant into a tall step ladder position so I'm close to
the work). I find that it is much less tiring standing on a wide
surface and can exert lots of force on the sides of the boat.
This year I ground all the paint off the bottom so I had to buy a
sander/polisher. I ended up with a Makita which has rpms in the
1800-3000 range (variable). I used the slow speeds for grinding the
paint and the high speed for polishing the topsides and was very
impressed with the results in both cases. The machine is light
compared to Sears disc sanders and yet is industrial strength.
I got a bonnet for polishing that looks like a short hair mop -
it has yarns rather than the sheep skin looking polisher and it
made light work of removing the dried wax. Though I do work out
with weights I never had trouble holding the sander for long periods
of time, in fact the polishing was substantially easier than doing
the polishing by hand and left no swirly spots (which drive me to
distraction).
By the way, does anyone know what can be put onto anodized toe rails
to seal them? I'd like to try something to keep them from bleeding
all over my beautiful topsides.
|
| 811.6 | Scaffolding makes the job a lot easier ... | GRAMPS::BAILEY | Terminus Fuggit! | Mon Apr 25 1988 17:07 | 22 |
| I'll second the person who said use the wax remover first. It makes
a big difference in the time and effort with the rubbing compound.
We use Maguairs Color Restorer, followed by Maguairs Boat Polish.
The orbital buffer makes the job a lot easier than trying to do
it by hand.
I've always preferred a step ladder to a regular ladder for this
job. It gives you a wider area to reach per ladder move. This
year we made some scaffolds that work great, and the hull work has
gone a lot faster. Basically the ends are built like wide step-ladders
made out of 2x4's. They have a "rung" every foot. You set them
up at each end of the area you are going to work on and slide a
15 foot 2x10 plank into the "rung" that'll put you at the correct height.
With this set-up we can do about half a side on a J/36 without having
to move anything except our tools and our bodies.
You can build scaffolds like these in about 2-3 hours if you have
the tools and materials. And if you plan on using them every year
I think they are a good investment.
... Bob
|
| 811.7 | Why not use pre-constructed stepladders? | ECADSR::FINNERTY | | Mon Apr 25 1988 18:07 | 14 |
| Why not just use two stepladders, placed sideways for stability,
and then run a 2x10 across them attached to each stepladder with
a bolt & wingnut.
Does this get you high enough off the ground? My initial eyeball
estimate was yes, but I didn't take any measurements 'cause I
didn't have a stepladder with me. They recently were on sale at
Tru-Value for 4.50 each, so I picked one up & could probably pick
up another for a few bucks more. The 2x10 will be the most expensive
part of the rig.
- Irish Mist
|
| 811.8 | Another proprietory brand | AYOU17::NAYLOR | Purring on all 12 cylinders | Tue Apr 26 1988 05:11 | 15 |
| Last year I discovered the answer to my prayers - Marine Owatrol.
I have a deep maroon hull which is *very* prone to chalking and
this stuff shifts it in no time at all, and most importantly without
too much elbow grease. It also seems to remove all old wax and
other accumulated gunge. Anyway, the finish is spectacular - even
the black mast and boom came up like new.
Costs about #10 per tin from most good chandlers in the UK and a
half litre tin has done me 3 polishes so far and there's still enough
for this season!
Brian
|
| 811.9 | Stepladders aren't stable enough ... | GRAMPS::BAILEY | Terminus Fuggit! | Tue Apr 26 1988 09:19 | 18 |
| RE .7
I guess you could use stepladders. But your scaffold would only
have the stability of a stepladder. The scaffolds we have are
very stable because of the way they're built. They are five feet
high. The top "rung" is a foot wide, while the bottom one is two
and a half feet wide. When the scaffold is opened all four legs
are sitting at an angle to the ground, somewhat like a jack-stand.
This lets you put the crosspiece on the top rung without loss of
stability, unlike a stepladder where the higher you go the less
stable you get.
Your solution would be less expensive. Our scaffolds cost about
$45 in wood and hardware. But it's worth it considering how much
easier and faster the hull work has been done this year.
... Bob
|
| 811.10 | Phase 1 Design Review; comments please! | ECADSR::FINNERTY | | Tue Apr 26 1988 11:40 | 28 |
|
______
\ \ <-- sturdy hinge
/\\ \
// \\ \ <-- 2x6
// /\\ \
// /==\\ \
/___/ \\_____\
/\ \ /|_____| <-- sturdy hinge
//\\ \ // / /\
// \\ \// / \ \
// / \\ // / \ \
//__/ \\//+==========+ \
/\ \ \/ / chain \ \ <-- 2x4 turned sideways
//\\ \ // / support \ \
// \\ \// / \ \
/__/ \\ // / \ \
\\// / \ \ <-- lateral support
\/ / <-- lower \ \ (not shown)
// / support is \ \
// / longer than \ \
// / upper support \ \
// / \ \
/__/ \_\
|
| 811.11 | Design review comment and crude illustration | GRAMPS::BAILEY | Terminus Fuggit! | Tue Apr 26 1988 15:03 | 49 |
| RE .10
I'm impressed. Ours are a lot simpler than that. I'll attempt
to illustrate.
Front view:
You make two __ __
of these per /_/___________\_\
scaffold, one /_________________\ <--- crosspieces attached
narrower than / / \ \ to the front of the
the other so / / \ \ legs using 4" bolts.
when you fold /_/___________________\_\
it the back /_________________________\
fits inside / / \ \
the front / / \ \
/_/___________________________\_\
/_________________________________\
/ / \ \
/ / \ \
/_/___________________________________\_\
/_________________________________________\
/ / \ \
/_/ \_\
Side view:
__
/o/\ <--- 4" bolt to hold front piece to back piece
..../ /\ \...........................................
|../_/..\_\......................................... -->
//_/ \_\\ ^
front --> / / \ \ <-- back |
/_/ \_\ this is supposed to be the
//_/~~~~~~~~~ \_\\ 2x10, across the top rung
/ / ^ \ \ to another scaffold
/_/ | \_\
//_/ attach chain \_\\
/ / between rungs \ \
/_/ as a preventer \_\
//_/ \_\\
/ / \ \
/_/ \_\
All you need is 2x4's, bolts, and a short piece of chain.
... Bob
|
| 811.12 | Nylon and Wool-Kike pads? | ECADSR::FINNERTY | | Tue Apr 26 1988 16:16 | 12 |
|
re .-1 Thank you for taking the time!
re .2
did I understand you correctly, you use a (soft) nylon mesh pad
on your electric buffer when scrubbing with the cleaner, and
a 'wool-kike' pad when buffing the wax. Is that right?
Irish Mist
|
| 811.13 | neighbors?? | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Tue Apr 26 1988 19:12 | 7 |
| RE: .0, .12
Your IRISH MIST wouldnt be layed up at the Wharf in Warwick would
it ?
Walt
|
| 811.14 | A borrower or a lender be | CSSE::COUTURE | Abandon shore | Tue Apr 26 1988 19:20 | 8 |
| Irish Mist
I have all of that junk, buffer, mesh pads, wooly pads and Encore
is ready to go in. If you want, write me on email and we can
arrange a hand off in Warwick -
Adam
|
| 811.15 | The *real* Irish Mist | ECADSR::FINNERTY | | Wed Apr 27 1988 17:06 | 10 |
|
re .13
no, that Irish Mist must be an imposter. The "real" Irish Mist
is down near Point Judith.
Irish Mist
(if the skipper doesn't have a red beard, it's not the real thing)
|
| 811.16 | Comparison of Collinite vs Gel Gloss | ECADSR::FINNERTY | | Tue May 10 1988 12:16 | 75 |
| This past week I had the chance to experiment with both Collinite
and with Gel Gloss. Collinite Cleaner costs about $4.50, Collinite
Fleetwax costs about $8.50, and Gel Gloss costs about $3.25. I
didn't see "this is not a wax" on the Gel Gloss can, though
it claimed that it cleans and polishes, which may suggest that they
intend it to be a one-step process.
The Collinite containers are not spill-proof, which is important
if you are working in a stiff breeze. The wax spilled once, and
the cleaner spilled twice, even though I was trying to be careful.
The Gel Gloss comes in a spill proof container, and being a gel
it's not likely to spill anyway. I knocked it over once, too.
The Gel Gloss gives a waxier appearance after it is applied, which
suggests that it *could* be used as a 1-step process if you're in
a hurry, although there is no mention of UV protection on the can,
so I don't recommend it as a 1-step.
Experiment 1:
Apply the Collinite cleaner & wax to 1/2 the transom, and Gel
Gloss to the other half, and the same for the rudder. The
rudder had some rusty stains, and the transom had some streaks
that were probably caused by salt water which had dried there.
The cleaners were applied with an automatic buffer (thanks Adam)
with a nylon attachment, and the Collinite wax was buffed by
hand. Parts of the transom were done without the buffer to
see how much effect the buffer had on the results.
Surprizingly, there was little difference between the two-step
job and the 1-step Gel Gloss job. Neither removed the salt
stains very well, and did only moderately well on the rust
(which probably requires oxalic acid). The Gel Gloss might
even have a slight edge in appearance. I won't tell you which
side is which, so if you see me this summer, you can judge for
yourself. Time will tell how each will hold up over the summer.
Experiment 2:
On the sides of the hull, both products did an outstanding job,
far better than anything I've used before. Again, there wasn't
too much difference between the two products, although the
Collinite seemed to clean it up with less effort. The buffer
seemed to be most effective here, with a really noticable
difference in quality between what I had done by hand & what
was done with the buffer.
Experiment 3:
During the 2 days after I cleaned the boat & before the launch,
my boat was attacked by a "gang" of birds. If there is the
equivalent of the Hells Angels in the bird world, then that
was who visited my boat. 5 big blops, which I couldn't scrape
off with my foot, or even my fingernails for God's sakes. These
winged vandals must have eaten epoxy for lunch. Well, the
Gel Gloss was ineffective too (applied with a paper towel),
but the Collinite cleaner shined here. Took it off completely.
In fairness, it was applied after the Gel Gloss, but it seemed
pretty clear what was working and what wasn't.
So I'd recommend saving some old shampoo containers with non-spill
tops, dumping the Collinite cleaner and wax into them, and using
them over the Gel Gloss when the going gets tough. If your boat
is in great shape already and you're just making sure it stays that
way, the Gel Gloss is cheaper, spillproof, and just as good for
most purposes. I can't comment on whether or not it is usable as
a 1-step or not, so you will probably need a wax too.
I've since discovered that Collinite makes a wax specifically for
"fiberglass" (presumably gel-coat), which costs the same amount.
Perhaps someone else who has tried it can report on it.
- Jim (Irish Mist)
|
| 811.17 | Its a floorwax/desert-topping | USMRM1::GFALVELLA | George | Tue May 10 1988 14:17 | 5 |
| The favorite gel coat cleaner in many yards (and used-car lots as
well) is white-wall tire cleaner (i.e. GUNK or WESTLEYS (sp?)).
The active agents are combinations of sodium silicates (like meta-
and para-). Not recommended for painted surfaces.
|
| 811.18 | | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Tue May 10 1988 19:58 | 14 |
| I dont think the wax by Collinite I raved about was Fleetwax. I
have that but as I recall it is the one (of 2 Collinite products
I have) which is the cleaner wax. I like it too but I didnt buy
it for the "wax" half, rather the gentle cleaner which is good
for a decent surface that needs a little dewaxing and slight polishing.
I will have to look up the catalog numbers and names of both
products for you guys. The product that really blows me away
is the WAX only (almost no cleaning ability, except for the dissolving
potential of the fluid which keeps the wax in its soft paste form
in the bottle).
Walt
|
| 811.19 | 950? | RDF::RDF | Rick Fricchione | Wed May 11 1988 09:33 | 7 |
| I've used the same stuff Walt.. Its got a number code on it...
like Collinite 950 or something... Its worked well for me too.
As a wax, not as a cleaner or desert topping..:-)
Rick
|
| 811.20 | another plug for Collinite | GRAMPS::BAILEY | Summertime gonna come & go my oh my | Tue May 17 1988 13:48 | 30 |
| I tried the Collinite this week-end too. There are actually three
products; Cleaner, Fleetwax, and Fiberglass Boat Wax. They all
have product numbers, but I can't remember what they were. If you buy
all three you'll spend about $25. I used all three products, but I
really doubt there's any advantage to using the Fleetwax if you use
the Fiberglass Boat Wax.
The boat I was working on has red, orange and yellow racing stripes
down the side. The red was so oxidized we covered it with a decal.
But the orange and yellow stripes look new again (this is an '81
boat). I now wish I had heard about this stuff before giving up
and covering the red stripe.
As a test I did the starboard side with Collinite. The port side
was done using our usual Maguiars products; liquid color restorer
followed by paste wax. The difference was quite noticeable, and
the Collinite was clearly the superior product for gloss and
"slickness". It'll be interesting to compare the durability of
the two products as the season progresses.
Of course, the Collinite should be better, it costs more. But if
you have a dark colored hull I should think it'd be worth the extra
money. The difference for us was so noticeable that people were
coming over asking us what we had used.
Incidentally, BOAT/US does carry this product, although we bought
the last bottle of Fleetwax they had on the shelf.
... Bob
|
| 811.21 | | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Wed May 18 1988 10:53 | 8 |
| I promised to look at the number of the Collinite wax and get back.
I did when I picked up the bottle of wax for Bob (RE:-.1), but didnt
write it down. I seem to remember No. 925, and Fiberglass Boat
Wax as the key identifiers.
Walt
|
| 811.22 | Liquid Glass | DELNI::FACHON | | Wed May 18 1988 14:03 | 18 |
|
Has anyone experimented with "Liquid Glass" on their
boat's hull? This is a relatively new product for cars -- no wax,
but a polymer of some sort. Permanently bonds
to the finish, much like the exterior coating an auto
dealership would offer as part of a rust-proofing package.
At any rate, I've tried the stuff on my car with superb
long-lasting results. Considered using it on the boat, but wasn't
quite sure how it would get along with gel coat, and it costs
almost 17 bucks for a small can -- 16 oz or so. Would need
2 cans at least to cover a 35 foot boat, but would be worth every
penny to get a protective shine that would last a complete
season or more.
Anyone tried this?
Dean
|
| 811.23 | How long does that shine last? | JOKUR::SMMGR | | Mon Feb 18 1991 19:30 | 9 |
| I own a 1982 Pearson with a dark blue hull. The hull started to fade
and chalk 3 seasons ago and since then I have tried several types of
cleaners, waxes, etc. (non collinite yet) and they all look greate on
launch day, but after 6-8 weeks of hard sailing, I am back where I
started: the faded and partially oxidized look. Two questions:
1. How do the products in this note hold up over the season?
2. Since most of the replies in this note are old, are there any new
products out there I should consider?
Thanks in advance for any advice you salty sages can offer - Larry.
|
| 811.24 | uv wax or paint | AKO539::KALINOWSKI | | Tue Feb 19 1991 08:38 | 12 |
| re .23
When done busting your butt, wax the box with a wax that has a
uv protector in it. They cost a couple of bucks more. but it does
help. Make sure it is a hard wax so that it stays on.
Blue is one of the worse colors around cause it just sucks up the
sunlight. A permanent solution is to paint the gelcoat with a two part
epoxy paint. I did this on a previous boat with excellant results. The
paint didn't fade at all.
john
|
| 811.25 | Fade is Permanent | STEREO::HO | | Tue Feb 19 1991 08:40 | 11 |
| Dark gel coats will fade througout their entire thickness after several
seasons. If yours held up for better than 6 years, that's better than
average.
Rubbing comppounds and other microfine abrasives can restore the shine
but not the color. At this point most owners concerned about
appearances start inquiring about an Awl-grip paint job. About $30-$60
per foot at a yard. Less if you do it yourself but not cheap in any
case.
- gene
|
| 811.26 | Toy or Tool?? | WONDER::BRODEUR | | Thu Feb 21 1991 22:36 | 20 |
| Since there has been a little chatter related to this subject lately
I figure I'll add yet another question.
This will be my first spring with a 30' Tartan with a badly chalked
hull. I will also need to clean up the keel to hull joint since its a
bit on the sloppy side. Question is, what is the the best buy for the
$$ to accomplish this. I need a grinder for the keel/hull joint and a
buffer for the clean up of the hull.
In previous replies there were mentions of both a Black and Decker
grinder/polisher as well as a Makita. In dollars we are talking (spags
prices) $47 vs. $125 and up! If I plan to spend a full day buffing the
hull, will the B&D hold out or will it blister my hands and go up in
smoke? Assuming this will be the only use this tool see's (very
unlikely but lets say it is...), what has been your experience as far
as the longevity of a toy vs a tool?
Inputs?
Paul
|
| 811.27 | Right Tool For The Right Job | MEMORY::PARE | | Fri Feb 22 1991 09:09 | 8 |
| RE: .26 In my experience, compounding and polishing my 28' hull is a
back breaking time consuming job at the top of a step ladder. I would
not try to do it with a tool that was designed for sanding/grinding (a
circular motion tool). A random orbital polisher is what you need to
obtain the desired results. You could always rent a grinder to prepare
the keel to hull joint if that is the only job for which you need it.
-John
|
| 811.28 | | RECYCL::MCBRIDE | | Fri Feb 22 1991 09:16 | 18 |
| Look to the power ratings for both tools. The Makita may have a higher
rating and therefore be able to handle bigger jobs. With a buffer (and
grinder), you want to be able to keep the speed constant under load and
still apply enough pressure. We rented a Makita for our hull and it
worked very nicely. If you are only going to be using it periodically,
this may be the way to go for you also. If you are not going to be using
it constantly, the extra $ for the Makita or an outright purchase may not
be worth it. On the other hand, there is an adage around the DIY circles
that points towards always buying the best tool you can. Ergonomics do
play a role in the selection as tool balance, how it fits your hands,
switch positions etc. can all effect how easy the tool is to master. On
a 30' hull, you will be buffing for a considerable amount of time. A 5
pound buffer will feel like 50 pounds before too long. Weight may be a
major consideration for you. If you are worrying about blisters, gloves
can cure that pretty easily. Have fun spending money! I know I always
do.
Brian
|
| 811.29 | not fun, but can be made easier | AKOCOA::DJOHNSTON | | Fri Feb 22 1991 10:24 | 13 |
| I bought a large random orbit buffer at Sears a few years ago off of
their refurbished tool rack for a very reasonable price. Less than
fifty bucks. It has the large pad (10 or 12 inches) and dual grips.
I've seen smaller versions but wouldn't use them. We use the buffer
each spring on our forty foot hull. It is a long day, but the tool
makes it much easier than doing the hull by hand.
Plan on going through many buffing and polishing bonnets. Also the
time spent arranging fifty gallon drums and boards around the hull as
scaffolding will be time well spent. A step ladder provides limited
work area and an unsafe platform to push against the hull.
Dave
|
| 811.30 | One vote for Black and Decker | SELECT::COUTURE | Abandon shore | Mon Feb 25 1991 08:34 | 11 |
| I've used the Black and Decker Random Orbit polisher for about five
years now. The first one lasted four years and had done many boats
beside my own (Catalina 30) and I do a general buffing (Simonize
Royale) plus three coats of wax (Mothers) every season. I've used
other buffers (Wen, Sears), but they were too heavy and the handle
design (like a 50 cal. machine gun) wasn't very good when I was
standing on a ladder. The Black and Decker's weight and handle design
IMHO make it the best I've found - although you won't be handing it
down to your grandchildren.
|
| 811.31 | Makita Tools | GUIDUK::RADKE | | Mon Feb 25 1991 20:01 | 32 |
| RE: .26+
After reading this note and much experimentation I finally have settled
on the following:
Rubbing compound for initial treatment of chalky gel-coat.
Polishing after the rubbing compound to remove scratches.
Wax or One Step cleaner/wax.
I use a Makita variable speed buffer/grinder with a wool pad for
rubbing compound and the foam discs for polishing and cleaner/wax.
Going through the three steps the first time after we bought our boat
was WORK. However since that time I have only had to use the One Step
twice a year to keep the gelcoat looking new.
Incidently, it takes me 5 hours to do the entire hull working solo with
the Makita. Viking Rose is 43' LOD with a 13 foot beam. Using Drums
and boards (.29) is a must. It is a little more difficult to do at the
dock, perhaps six or seven hours total.
In general we have found that with gelcoat, varnishing and other
maintenance it is easier to be in the habit of frequent light
maintenance rather than infrequent reconstruction projects. However
bringing it up to the point of light maintenance can be a lot of work.
On the equipment brands we have found Makita to be of excellent design
and value. Purchasing at discount (Costco, Price Savers, etc.) takes
some of the sting out of the initial price. Milwaukee brand tools run
a close second to Makita in our opinion.
Howard
|
| 811.32 | removing tar from topsides | MEMIT::HO | | Mon Jun 28 1993 13:26 | 5 |
| Some tar rubbed offed a dock onto my boat's topsides.
Any ideas on how to remove?
- gene
|
| 811.33 | | MARX::CARTER | | Mon Jun 28 1993 13:51 | 13 |
| Gene,
The owners' manual for a car I used to own recommended using butter or
margarine to remove tar spots from the paint. The choice may be
dependent on whether Touche' is on a low cholesterol diet.
I never tried, so can't say if it works or not.
djc
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| 811.34 | Removing tar | CFSCTC::CLAFLIN | | Mon Jun 28 1993 14:14 | 9 |
| Quite by accident I found that TR3 resin glaze, found in car shops, was excellent
at removing tar from my car when I lived in Colorado.
A word of warning. I have never tried it on Gel Coat. On my car it removed about
a ton of "oxidized" red paint. The result looked quite nice. However, this
implies some form of abrasion, and TR3 does leave a glazing.
Rubbing with a terry cloth rag worked great. The entire process of applying,
drying and rubbing took just a few minutes.
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| 811.35 | Better living thru chemicals | SANDZ::WAGNER | Scott | Mon Jun 28 1993 14:44 | 12 |
|
Or, for quicker results, spray a *LITTLE* WD-40 or some such on a
rag (NOT THE HULL) and do a combination dab-scrub. When finished, go
over the whole mess with dish detergent, LOTS of rinse cycles.
I'm not a Chemist, but I play one in the cockpit.
Scott.
ps I heard bad stories about lighter fluid...
Nail polish remover is a mellow acetone...
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| 811.36 | I vote butter | OTOOA::MOWBRAY | This isn't a job its an Adventure | Mon Jun 28 1993 15:23 | 4 |
| The comment about butter reminded me of "One of Mum's home remedies".
As a kid, I was always getting tar from roofs etc. on myself and butter
cleaned it up every time.
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| 811.37 | ex | AKO539::KALINOWSKI | | Mon Jun 28 1993 20:10 | 9 |
| Having trailer sailed for 10 years I have had my share of tar on my
boat. Best thing I have found is unleaded gas. Put on a rag and rub.
then wash with soapy water immediateely.
I have had wd-40 leave a light brown stain behind.
john
john
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| 811.38 | HAndcleaner? | NEWOA::NEALE | Who can, do - who can't, consult | Tue Jun 29 1993 09:44 | 12 |
| The other problem with WD-40 is that the residues it leaves can be next
to impossible to wash off. Not a problem unless you want to repaint
some time. My father once used some to lubricate the windscreen wiper
pivots on his car. The overspray _never_ came off the windscreen,
whatever he tried to clean it with.
I would use one of the proprietary handcleaners as used in garages and
workshops (in the UK typically Swarfega). These have the advantage that
they emulsify petroleum-based and similar products, and can then be
washed away with soapy water.
- Brian
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| 811.39 | Never use gasoline for cleaning! | DEMOAX::GINGER | Ron Ginger | Tue Jun 29 1993 12:56 | 7 |
| Someone suggested unleaded gas. I urge you to never clean with
gasoline. An accident occured in my garage a few years ago while
some boys cleaned motorcycle parts with gasoline. A spark from a
lighter more than 25 feet from the gas pan ignited the pan. One boy died.
Keep gasoline in tanks or proper cans. There are many better solvents
with much less danger.
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| 811.40 | Try Simple Green | EMDS::MCBRIDE | Flick of my BIC Scarecrow? | Tue Jun 29 1993 13:25 | 12 |
| Turtle wax makes a product called of all things "Bug and Tar Remover".
Worked on both (bugs and tar) on the car. It will also remove wax so if
the surface is waxed, wash and rinse thoroughly and reapply your wax of
choice. It is some sort of petroleum distillate. I imagine paint thinner
will work also. If it is not too thick, even formula 409 or windex may
work. Lot's of stuff will dissolve tar. Since it is also petroleum
based, any petroleum comaptible solvent will do. You could also try
Simple Green if you are ecosensitive. Come to think of it, try this
first :-). Can be found in any K-Mart etc., BJ's etc. (by the tanker car
only) or even CVS.
Brian
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| 811.41 | Butter is better | OTOOA::MOWBRAY | This isn't a job its an Adventure | Wed Jun 30 1993 15:14 | 9 |
| In my humble opinion, none of the suggestions is as good as butter.
The butter is cheap, environmentally friendly, easy to obtain, effective
and, in the event that there is any left over you could make a sandwich or
even a sauce hollandaise. Now I challenge even the most creative of you
out there to try to make a Sauce Hollandaise with any of the Turtle Wax
products.
ps. please don't enter into a discussion of cholesterol comparison of
Butter Vs. Petroleum.
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| 811.42 | It's a floor wax! It's a desset topping! | SANDZ::WAGNER | Scott | Fri Jul 02 1993 12:10 | 7 |
|
Well now what about margarine for the cholesterol- conscious?
Or, for the VERY nautical, I'd have to suggest Olive Oyl.
ak-ak-ak-ak-ak (It's a Popeye laugh, can't you tell?)
This note has gotten embarraskin'...
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| 811.43 | Pure Natural Carb Cleaner Did the Trick | MEMIT::HO | | Tue Jul 06 1993 09:51 | 9 |
| After baking in the sun for a week the tar was rock hard. Despite
great expectations, butter turned out to be a poor solvent. Didn't
even etch the surface. A few sprays from a can of Carburetor cleaner
did the job in a minute. There is a light brown stain directly under
the spot from which the tar was removed. That's into the pores of the
paint and will have to wait for whenever I get around to fixing all the
other dings on the boat.
- gene
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| 811.44 | Try this? | KYOA::HANSON | I'm tired of typing! | Tue Jul 06 1993 12:20 | 12 |
|
Sorry to jump in a bit late on this conversation, but I was wondering
if a liquid called "Desolvit" might be helpful.
It's a light yellow stuff, sold in most home and hardware stores in the
U.S., and it's great for cutting through greasy or gummy stuff,
including tar, gum, sticker glue, etc. After using it, a quick
cleaning with Windex or other glass cleaner removes all residue, and I
can't see that it would hurt gelcoat at all.
Bob
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