Conference unifix::sailing

Have you considered shrink-wrapping it?  Seriously, there are companies 
that will come to your boat, and they literally wrap it from the deckline 
up in fairly heavy polyethylene-like plastic and spend a half-hour running
a rather large hair-dryer over it.  No chafe, virtually no weight, and in 
spring you open your boat up with a Swiss army knife.

Undoubtedly it's cheaper than having a yard cover your boat the 
old-fashioned way, but more expensive than making and installing a 
reuseable cover yourself.

J.

    J.
    	I looked at (am still considering) the shrink wrap --
    	They want about $340.
    
    	They can even install access ports to get on board & inspect
    things over the season.
    
    	Just sounds like a lot of $$$ -- does save work though, Hmmm....
    
                                              /Lou

    The idea of any cover frame is to keep the cover away from chafe
    and prevent snow and ice buildup.
    
    I have seen some successful frames made from 1x3 or similar material.
    Basically they create a continuous arc above all structure from bow 
    to stern by nailing two thicknesses of the 1x3 together (like creating 
    long beams from shorter smaller wood pieces) with pieces overlapping 
    ends.  This backbone piece is supported by 2x4 verticals every 3-4'
    to the various deck levels.  Ribs are also from 1x3. They go in
    one arc from deck, over the backbone back to deck and are usually
    only one thickness. Also they should be 18"-2' apart to prevent
    overload.
    
    Each rib-backbone joint should be padded with a piece of carpet.
    
    Finally the frame should have little or no horizontal or low angle
    slope areas to collect snow and ice.
    
    I made one of these my first winter. The only trouble is, it is
    practically impossible to salvage much of the wood in the spring.

    Four years ago, I made a cover frame using 2x6 backbone standing
    on end (the other was on side), bolted together and to the vertical
    braces. The ribs are 2x3 straight pieces cut, marked and pinned
    in place and can be used each year. They run at a slope out from
    the backbone to the sides of the boat at lifeline height and are
    supported to deck level by another 2x3 set vertically from the deck
    and pinned in place.  The pins are 8p common nails. The pin holes
    are drilled slightly oversized and always near vertical to keep
    them in.  Since the resulting rib can wobble, I run a line down
    each side above the 2-2x3 joint, wrapping around wach rib once as
    I go. This helps keep the ribs from shifting.
    
    Walt 

    I built a frame out of conduit and connected all the pieces using
    Kover Klamps.  I did all the work myself including all the bending
    of the ribs to the correct angles to connect to the pieces fastened
    to the stancions (also curved at the top).  The entire project took
    one weekend to construct the first time and now, using a map and
    marked pieces, the whole thing can be reconstructed in a couple
    of hours.  I use a weave-cote tarp, light weight, with real neat
    fasteners - little round lozenge type plastic pieces go under a
    piece of the tarp, this bundle is then inserted into a plastic fastener
    shaped much like an "8" so that one end of the 8 has the tarp
    jammed into it leaving the other to tie a piece of line.  It ends
    up being infinitely adjustable.  I've used the same cover frame
    and tarp for 3 seasons for around the cost of one season of shrink
    wrap.  I have to replace one rib this year (inadequate support under
    it caused it to bend under the weight of the snow).  I can't say
    that the cover is perfect since it is difficult to get a proper
    angle with the stancions left in place and it's next to impossible
    to get the tarp nice and tight like shrink wrap.  However, I believe
    the cover serves a useful purpose and intend to use it again this
    year.

    Pam   

The problem with shrink wrap is ventilation or, rather, the lack of 
ventilation. Keeping the boat dry requires a substantial airflow through 
the boat and under the cover. We use heavy canvas for our cover (very 
durable) and leave large openings at the bow and stern. We also leave 
the hatches and ports open (the boat is in our front yard). This ensures 
that the boat stays dry even in changing temperatures.

    I have had good luck building a frame out of 1x3 strapping. I started
    with a double (2x3) down the middle. It must be high enough to give
    a good angle for the snow and water to drain. Then I build rectangular
    sections that go between the toe rail and lifelines - tied to the
    stanchions, and finally triangular sections to connect the rectangular
    side pieces to the  2x3 ridge pole. The whole thing is held together
    with sheet rock screws. You will want a circular saw and a power
    screwdriver (or variable speed electric drill). Cover it all with
    your chioce of material. Sandbags may tend to keep it tighter than
    if you try to tie it. It needs to be tight to keep the pockets that
    collect water and ice as small as possible.
    
    At the bow, where everything comes together, I used some 1/8" cord
    to connect the ridge pole with the bow pulpit to avoid large saggy
    pockets. Was an all day job the 1st time, but is easy to repeat
    each year.
    
    Bill French
                                                      
    

    
    re: .4 "Kover Klamps"  (pronounced like "Cover Clamps", btw)
    
    Boat U.S. no longer sells these, nor does any hardware or plumbing
    supply company that I could locate.
    
    To contact the Kover Klamps company directly, call (718)885-2202.
    The cost for the clamps at this time is $19.95 in packs of 5.
    
    /jim