T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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2289.1 | I'm sure you've thought of all this... | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Fri May 22 1992 10:55 | 25 |
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A number of perhaps not-very-useful thoughts come to mind:
- Shouldn't the chain just fall off the small chainring?
Why does it in effect get sucked in next to the chain stay?
When other people's chains fall off, they just drag on the ground.
- Does anyone have experience with the Rohloff? You could try
(a cheap experiment!!) a Sedisport, just to see if that makes
any difference.
- What kind of gear-shifts are you doing when this happens?
Are you double shifting? Is there a lot of chain angle?
(For example, small rear cog, small chain ring?) A lot of
chain slop? (Is the chain taut enough?)
- Can't you just carry an 8mm or whatever size Allen key to
undo a Chorus crank? (I know, this is not a solution to the
chain's falling off.)
- Does the chain fall off when you shift or randomly as you
pedal along? If the former, is the front derailleur's travel
limitation set correctly?
-john
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2289.2 | If you haven't already tried... | ODIXIE::RRODRIGUEZ | I think I know a short-cut | Fri May 22 1992 11:12 | 17 |
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If your front derailleur limit screws are okay, you might check
the height of the whole derailleur itself on the seat tube. Looking
at it from the drive side of the crank, the derailleur should clear
the top of the big ring by 1-1.5 mm (according to Shimano specs).
Looking down from the top, the outside edge of the front derailleur
should run parallel to the big ring's edge. This is not as easy to
accomplish as you'd think...
If that doesn't work, check the specs. It is possible that the
derailleur is not designed to handle the disparity in the number
of total teeth, front AND rear.
Other possibilities: chain is worn out, chain is too long or mis-
aligned?
2
r
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2289.3 | fixed is simpler... :-) | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Tue May 26 1992 07:17 | 3 |
| don't shift.
ed
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2289.4 | ??????? | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Tue May 26 1992 07:34 | 7 |
| I've got a Rohloff - They're (from what I understand) targeted at the
new Campy 8spd config... My guess is (if it is the chain) you could
save big dough by going with a cheaper chain.
That is a strange problem, though. I have no problems with my stuff.
Chip
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2289.5 | design flaw | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Tue May 26 1992 07:35 | 7 |
| seriously though, I think it's part of the Chorus design. Others
either leave so much space between the spider and the bb that the
chain can't get jammed or they leave so little that it can't fit.
Ah-hah, grind/file away part of the spider!
ed
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2289.6 | HUMOR ME... | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Tue May 26 1992 07:38 | 3 |
| This is a stupid question I know, but is the spindle in correctly?
Chip
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2289.7 | | VIVIAN::S_HARLEY | | Tue May 26 1992 13:49 | 10 |
| Thanks for the response so far....
I think I will try shortening the chain a little as it may be a bit
too slack and maybe take the bike into the local LOOK/campy dealer to check
the spindle etc. The chain very rarely jumps off and the jam occurs if
I momentarily continue pedalling after the chain is off. It may also be
the big jump from 53 to 39 that causes it to come off. Has anyone seen
that with 14speed and 53/39 combinations??
-steve-
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2289.8 | me too | SQUONK::OUELLETTE | Buddy Ouellette | Tue May 26 1992 14:14 | 16 |
| RE: .7
I've got a fairly new Schwinn Paramount Series 3 road bike which does
a similar thing. Sometimes when I'm changing from the 53 to the 42 and
I'm spinning fast, the chain gets jammed next to the chainstay for
just a second, then pops back. It does a number on the paint, not to
mention my rythm.
I, too was wondering if my chain was too long and had too much slack.
I'm pretty sure my limit screws are set properly - It shifts fine each
way and doesn't rub the chainring except when I crank it on in the next
to smallest cog (while on the small front ring).
If you shorten your chain, please let us know the results.
-Buddy
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2289.9 | 39 -> 53 SHOULD WORK | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Tue May 26 1992 14:35 | 5 |
| A 39 to 53 jump should not be a problem. It will require a finer tuned
adjustment, but should work fine if everything else is set up
correctly, e.g. front derailleur, chain alignment, etc...
Chip
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2289.10 | ...it COULD happen on some groups | ODIXIE::RRODRIGUEZ | I think I know a short-cut | Tue May 26 1992 14:53 | 11 |
| If you look at the Performance catalog, the specs show what kind
of load (no. of teeth) the fron deraileurs are designed to handle.
I have a friend has a 53-39 Ultegra that must be shifted gently
or it will jump off. Ultegra is not _supposed_ to handle that load.
That was the source of his troubles. I, on the other hand, have been
very lucky with my Dura-Ace. Even when my limit screws are too open,
I can't roll roll the chain off to the inside.
2
r
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2289.11 | | PROMPT::MILLING | Bob Milling 264-2068 Image/Voice/Video PCU | Tue May 26 1992 18:06 | 6 |
| I use a 39-53 Dura-Ace up front. Last year I had some problems with
the chain rolling off at both extremes. This year I simply spent more
time with all adjustments and don't have any problems even with quick
hard shifts.
Bob
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2289.12 | Another smug git checks in | 52908::JURA::MACFADYEN | I wish I could sell out like that | Wed May 27 1992 05:04 | 5 |
| I've got 52-38 at the front and no problems whatsoever with a standard
Shimano 105SC front changer.
Rod
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2289.13 | It should work. | INTRN6::DIAL | | Fri May 29 1992 09:29 | 2 |
| I'm running a 39/53 with Ultegra STI, with no problems, even with very fast
double shifts.
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2289.14 | Correction/Retraction | ODIXIE::RRODRIGUEZ | R-SQUARED | Mon Jun 08 1992 11:52 | 8 |
| re: .2 & .10
The Ultegra 53/39 rolling off was not due to design limitations
of the group. My friend just discovered that he had a bent
cable guide under the BB shell. The cable was intermittantly
"skipping" over a notch in the metal guide (Kestral 200SC).
r�
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