| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 2286.1 | LUBE SEATPOST? | AKOCOA::FULLER | | Wed May 20 1992 11:54 | 7 |
| Sounds crazy, but the creeking could be sound radiating down from the
seatpost. Since this is easy, try heavy grease on the seatpost.
Of course, look for frame cracks and make sure your crank bolts are
tight.
steve
|
| 2286.2 | BB tightness, coccix | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Wed May 20 1992 13:00 | 11 |
|
Creaks from the coccix can also be transmitted down the seat-tube,
as just described. So you might check that area. :-) :-)
Seriously, a reader wrote in to Bicycling a month or two ago with
that problem - reply was that large-tube aluminum frames do creak
under those circumstances, unless the BB is quite tight against
the frame (can loosen under stress). The reader's symptoms sounded
very much like your wife's. So check that out.
-john
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| 2286.3 | NOT THE FRAME'S FAULT... | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Wed May 20 1992 14:02 | 11 |
| Also (and being a C-Dale owner myself), sources are endless. Because
of the tubes, noise can be sourced anywhere and show up somewhere
different.
Once I thought I had a BB problem and it was lack of oil in the
freewheel. Seriously, I'd out the thing in the stand and swear that
it was coming from the BB.
The frame itself SHOULD NOT creak unless a weld is gone...
Chip
|
| 2286.4 | Other possibilities? | ECAD2::CANFIELD | | Wed May 20 1992 15:35 | 7 |
| The noise occurs even when up off the saddle, so I don't think it is
the seat. I will check the fixed cup on the BB tonight to see if it
might be loose, but I think that is ok too. Any other suggestions?
Thanks so far...
Quinn
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| 2286.5 | Check for the easy stuff | ODIXIE::RRODRIGUEZ | I think I know a short-cut | Wed May 20 1992 16:17 | 13 |
|
A couple of not-so-obvious possibilities...
1) Check the crank arm for stress cracks. The noise is how I
first discovered that I once cracked one.
2) Not to sound stupid... but could the leather of the show be
pressing hard against the crank arm? I've noticed that with
Nike cycling shoes. from time to time.
2
r
|
| 2286.6 | few more pointers | AKOCOA::FULLER | | Wed May 20 1992 16:38 | 6 |
| One other thing, the noise may be different, but check your front
derailleur aligment and make sure it is not hitting the crank arm,
or anywhere else that it is not suppose to.
steve
|
| 2286.7 | Crankarm bolt? | LEGUP::SHORTT | John Shortt / 266-4594 | Thu May 21 1992 11:42 | 11 |
|
After I replaced a BB, I noticed the same type of noise. I put in a
sealed unit, which can cause the sound more if not tight (brought up in
earlier replies). I also though I had it isolated to the right crank
arm. I took it off, cleaned the spindle and the arm well, took the
bolt and with a bit of grease, threaded it all the way into the spindle
without the arm in place. Then re-installed the arm and tightened the
bolt and the sound went away.
Did you remove the fixed cup? I know many people that don't during a
rebuild and may not even check it to make sure it is tight.
|
| 2286.8 | One more try | ECAD2::CANFIELD | | Tue May 26 1992 14:05 | 4 |
| I have not checked the fixed cup. I will take a look at it tonight.
Thanks for the help
Quinn
|
| 2286.9 | fixed cup problems | TEMPE::HUFFAKER | | Tue May 26 1992 17:06 | 12 |
| I had the same problem in the past and it drove me crazy trying to find
it and it was the Fixed Cup. It was not really loose but after putting
some teflon plumbers tape on it and "Really" tightening it up the sound was
gone. It is unbelievable the amount of torque it requires. The
concept as I understand it is that you are dealing with the clearance
remaining between the threads. I don't believe the teflon tape had
much to do with it except as in the case with grease it allows more
torque to be applied and allow the threads to be in more intimate
contact. The teflon tape is a good idea on aluminum bikes however to
reduce galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel.
Mike
|
| 2286.10 | Fixed! | ECAD2::CANFIELD | | Mon Jun 01 1992 09:31 | 6 |
| Well, the problem has been fixed! I pulled the crank off and tightened
the fixed cup. It was not really loose, I really had to crank on it to
get it to move but it did about 1/8 of a turn. Problem gone!
Thanks for all the help
Quinn
|
| 2286.11 | There's a first time for everything... | SUBURB::TORRINGTONG | Taff in exile.. | Thu Jun 04 1992 10:02 | 10 |
| I have an old 5-speed racer that seems to suffer from this creaking
noise. I've read the previous replies, but never having done much
maintanence I haven't got a clue what the fixed cup is!! Do I need a
special tool to tighten it or is it just a spanner job. I don't want to
pull things apart and find that I need some tool that I don't own to
put the thing back together properly.
Any help would be appreciated.
geraint..
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| 2286.12 | could be, but... | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Thu Jun 04 1992 10:32 | 9 |
| Geraint, it is potentially a spanner job to tighten the fixed cup,
which is the threaded race on the right side (chainring side) of
the bottom bracket, but you need the correct (largish) spanner.
Given that your bike is older, and presumably steel, the creaking
may be caused by this or by something else. (You might review the
other replies in this note.)
-john
|
| 2286.13 | Fixed Cup | DANGER::JBELL | Aleph naught bottles of beer on the wall... | Thu Jun 04 1992 11:12 | 75 |
| > I have an old 5-speed racer that seems to suffer from this creaking
> noise. I've read the previous replies, but never having done much
> maintanence I haven't got a clue what the fixed cup is!! Do I need a
> special tool to tighten it or is it just a spanner job. I don't want to
> pull things apart and find that I need some tool that I don't own to
> put the thing back together properly.
The fixed cup is a part of the bottom bracket.
(if you aren't fully versed in biker lingo, the bottom bracket
is the mechanism where the pedals are connected to each other.)
Below is an ASCII picture of a bottom bracket cross section.
L = Lockring
B = Bottom Bracket Shell
O = Ball Bearing
S = Spindle Body
X = Cup
LL
LLBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBX
XXXXXX XXXXXX
XXX XXX
XX O SSS SSS O XX
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
XX O SSS SSS O XX
XXX XXX
XXXXXX XXXXXX
LLBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBX
LL
There are two "cups" in the bearing (drawn as 'X').
They thread into the Bottom Bracket Shell and hold it all together.
The cup on the right side of the bike is the fixed cup, and
it stays in place merely by being tightened firmly. (I'm told that
some frame makers make sure that it stays in place with a
spot of brazing, although I've never seen this.)
This cup is rarely removed, beacuse there is rarely a need to.
The cup on the left side of the bike is kept in place by
a lock ring. The usual access to the bearings is by removing
this cup. The left cup is also the one used for adjustment.
Now as to your question about whether you should try to fix it
on your bike.....
First: There's a fairly good chance that it's really something
else making that noise. Check whether it happens when you
are standing; it might really be your seat making the noise.
Check for looseness in the bearings. Look to see if there
is movement between the fixed cup and the frame.
Second: Tightening the fixed cup can be done with a large adjustable
wrench (spanner), although it's easier to use a fixed size wrench
designed for this purpose. A bench vise might work in a pinch.
Third: The problem is that you probably will have to remove the cranks
to get good access to the fixed cup. If you are really lucky, a
wrench might fit in there with the cranks still on, but it will be
tight. Depending on what kind of cranks you have, removing them
might require a special tool.
The good news is that there's not that much you can take apart
and not be able to get back together. If you don't have the right tool
you probably won't be able to get it apart in the first place.
-Jeff Bell
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| 2286.15 | Smooth as a baby's bum!! | SUBURB::TORRINGTONG | Taff in exile.. | Thu Jun 11 1992 09:46 | 14 |
| Well thankyou for the instructions. Everything came off and went back
on tighter and the problem was solved. No more creaking. Then another
creaking appeared, easily solved this time though, it was just the
seat. So at the mo my bike is going and sounding a lot better than it
has for a long time. Only thing is I'm probably going to splash out and
buy a mountain bike now. I've seen and tried a Marin that I quite like,
but I've also seen a Saracen and a GT and god knows how many other that
look he part. Can anybody point me towards a decent MB shop in Reading,
UK that will give me advice on which to buy, or if any of you out there
could give me some pointers I'd be grateful. I'm looking to spend about
�350 (big gulp!).
Anyway, thanks for the fix tip,
geraint..
|