|  |     Last night, I wrote a rather lengthy letter to my family on my
    RAGBRAI XX experience.  I'm posting that letter here for those of you
    who were not fortunate enough to go.  It was my first and it won't be
    the last.  It was a great week!
    A little explanation around the players described below.  Karen is my
    wife, Tim is my 15 year old son, Joe and Jeff are two of my 5
    brothers.  All other names mentioned are members of Team Skidmark.
    Again, this is a tad long (400+ lines).  When you come from a large
    family you don't get to speak very often so when you get your chance
    you take it for all it's worth.  It may give newcomers a little
    different "taste" of what RAGBRAI is about.
    Enjoy...
dennis
    RAGBRAI XX is but a fond memory as I sit here -  gingerly sit here -
    recalling the highlights of one of the best vacations we've had in
    years.  This letter is not meant to intimidate you into riding it
    with me next year, although the non-wimpy members of our family (Joe,
    Jeff and Tim) are starting their conditioning next week.  It will be
    held July 18-24, 1993, and I plan on doing it at least one more time.
    It really wasn't that bad a ride.  The challenge became one of
    limiting the number of food stops one made so as to not be late for
    dinner at the camp site each night.  My conditioning was not all in
    vain - by the time July 19th rolled around, I'd put about 650 miles
    on the bike since the first of January.  Most of that was hills,
    remembering how "flat" Iowa isn't.  The real pain, so to speak, came
    in the distance riding - being able to stay on the seat for hours (on
    end?) and have the nerve to get back on the next morning to do it all
    over again.  I'd taken a bicycle conditioning class from our local
    Park and Rec department in April and remember thinking how long their
    first ride was - 19 miles.  The longest ride in that class was 48
    miles; the longest day I had last week was 101.4 miles.  Piece o'
    cake! 
    The other part of the bike conditioning class was how to do minor
    maintenance on the bicycle for those unavoidable road hazards.  I
    remember thinking during the section on changing flats that I didn't
    really need to do this tonight.  If I ever got a flat, I could figure
    it out.  I practiced anyway, just for the fun of it.  Little did he
    know...
    The week prior to RAGBRAI, I was all set to ride this thing alone (as
    alone as one can be with 7,500 other cyclists).  The day I sent in
    the check for the Charter service (carries the gear across the state
    for you), I got word from some other local people that they had an
    opening on their team and I was welcome to ride with them.  That
    night when I got home from work, there was a call from Joe that some
    people he works with at ACI not only had a need for another rider,
    but desperately needed a driver for the vehicle to haul gear across
    for them.  Karen and Tim had previously planned on staying with Mom &
    Dad while I rode but this was right up Karen's alley - setting up
    camp for 10 other people, taking all day to get to a town 30 minutes
    away, lying around reading and lounging all day.  We chose the team
    from ACI and from then on became known as part of Team Skidmark.  
    Karen, Tim and I arrived in Council Bluffs on Friday before the week
    of the ride.  Had to take a day to rest and get stocked up on those
    carbohydrates.  Joe brought a tape over to the house that night of
    last year's ride and after everyone watched that, I was psyched.  We
    also learned that arrangements had been made for every night of the
    week to stay with a family or friend or some other more comfortable
    arrangement.  What normally happens is that everyone stays in a huge
    camping area in tents and it's unusual to have other arrangements.
    Our arrangements included inside sleeping accommodations on 2
    separate occasions and comfortable, quiet back yards on the other
    nights.  Not a bad way to spend your first RAGBRAI!
    Saturday afternoon, Joe, Tim, Karen and I piled my bike on the Jeep
    and made the ride to Glenwood.  Okay, I realize I'm approaching the
    over-the-hill age, but as a parent, I understood how Dad & Mom must
    have felt, watching their "child" drive off, committed that he was
    going to ride his bicycle across the state of Iowa in the middle of
    summer.  Get real!  Believe me, I got a fair share of warnings about
    the humidity and heat and water and Mills county drivers.  But I
    wasn't worried for a minute - I had Karen with me!  
    Anyway, we got into Glenwood - remember little quaint Glenwood? -
    about 4:30 p.m.  We were supposed to meet the rest of the ACI gang at
    a house behind the high school.  I'll never forget driving into
    Glenwood - we came up over the hill and saw one bicycle.  Then two.
    Then five.  Then 20.  Then thousands!  It was as if this little tiny
    town had been invaded by a swarm of creatures with funny looking
    helmets (brain buckets) and they were eating everything in sight!
    We found the house okay but no one else was there yet.  We all walked
    up to the door, rang the bell, and we were promptly greeted by this
    lady in curlers.  Introductions followed and it was immediately as if
    we'd become part of her family.  "Okay.  The house will be open all
    night.  We're going to the class reunion and won't be back until 2:00
    or so but you can help yourself to anything you like.  There's
    zucchini bread and brownies on the counter - I don't want anything
    left when you leave in the morning.  Tea's in the cooler.  Showers
    upstairs and down.  Air conditioning is on.  TV's all yours.  Don't
    wait up."  Forget the 500 miles - I'm staying here!
    After the initial shock had subsided, we said farewell to Tim - Joe
    was ready by now to just steal a bike if it was the only way he could
    go on the ride.  But, we figured his wife might be a little upset
    seeing Tim drive Taylor [Joe's year-old son] back home in our Jeep,
    so Joe decided to wait until next year.  We threw the gear in the
    garage and back yard and proceeded to get the tent set up just as the
    rest of the ACI crew drove up.  I remember being a little worried
    when I first saw these guys because some of them looked like serious
    cyclists; serious, meaning that they all had their Lycra License.
    But they all seemed like polite gentlemen - the type that would
    apologize for leaving you in the dust.  We spent the rest of the
    night lying around the yard, eating, checking out the town of
    Glenwood (not nearly the way you remember it from the days of
    visiting with Grandma and Grandpa) and welcoming more new members of
    Team Skidmark.  We were sharing the house with Team Pie that night so
    we got to meet them as well.  They were given their name a few years
    ago because they were always seen sampling pies across the state (6
    pieces in one day was a moderate amount which allowed them to live up
    to their name).  Other than the lightning bugs, minor rain showers,
    fireworks, and occasional primal screaming, it was a pretty
    non-eventful evening after that.  I think everyone was in bed by
    10:00.
    By 5:30 a.m. Sunday morning, everyone was up and feeling a little
    nervous.  At least I was.  The Hostess fixed us breakfast (after a
    soothing 3 hours of sleep) and by 7:00, we had all the bikes ready to
    roll.  The next hour seemed like an eternity, looking back on the
    week.  There are no words that I can find that appropriately describe
    the feeling I had riding out onto the main street of Glenwood and
    then the highway out of town with approximately 13,000 other
    bicyclists.  For as far up the road, in both directions, all you
    could see were bikers.  We had the highway full - at least four-wide
    and more in some places, as we rolled out of town.  The ride
    officially started at 6:00 a.m. and it had been that steady for the
    first hour; it would continue to be a steady stream for probably two
    hours following our departure.  It was truly an amazing sight!  All I
    could think of was, 'did I remember to put on clean underwear in case
    I'm in an accident'.  No.  Wrong thrill.  I was really finding it
    hard to believe that it had finally arrived - the beginning of the
    event I'd been getting ready for during the last 10 months had
    arrived and I was right smack in the middle of it.
    Karen had received a map to the next town and proceeded on another
    road with the other drivers and support people.  The first day was a
    relatively short route from Glenwood to Shenandoah.  At one point she
    said she was on a parallel road to us and could see miles and miles
    of bicycles and still didn't see the end of the line.  The weather,
    at this point, was a cool 65 or 70 degrees and perfectly clear.  What
    a great day for a ride.  Little did he know...
    I failed to mention earlier that just two days before the ride, a
    friend suggested I get a pair of slick tires instead of the 'knobby'
    mountain-bike tires I had on.  He said it would probably save me a
    few miles an hour just in reduced friction.  Since they weren't too
    expensive, I decided to save an extra few minutes.  I needed all the
    help I could get.  What I didn't know then, that I do know and would
    be happy to share with everyone, is that the first rule of long bike
    rides is that you never take new equipment without testing it first
    around town.  It didn't take me too far out of Glenwood to realize
    why someone had created this rule.  As I was riding down the road,
    still flowing as fast as my adrenaline would take me, I realized that
    the bike was handling a little 'spongy' like.  I asked Paul, who up
    to this time had been teaching me all the rules of the road in the
    way of what to do, say, watch for, call-out, etc., to drop back and
    check my tire.  'Flat' he said, as he bellowed out "coming off!".
    With 13,000 other bicycles on the road, it's important that you make
    your intentions perfectly clear.  I remembered thinking afterwards if
    that's where he came up with our Team name.  
    Thanks to my keen sense of vision, I remembered how to change the
    tire.  Rather than take the time to patch the old one, I threw the
    new spare on, pumped it back up and hit the road again somewhere in
    the 5-minute time frame.  A little greasy and sweaty but, hey, no one
    said this was supposed to be a fashion show!  Back into the flow of
    RAGBRAI as Paul hollered out "coming on!".  My enthusiasm started to
    quickly fade though as not more than a mile down the road, I started
    to feel that same squishy feeling of a low tire.  I hollered at Paul
    but he was too far ahead of me to hear.  Oh well, I'd gotten the hang
    of things by now - "coming off!"  
    This time, I had to patch the tire, so I found a nice comfortable
    road-side spot, pulled out the kit, popped the tire off, and sadly
    discovered that the new tube had a hole right at the base of the
    stem.  Not suitable for patching - probably just a bad tube.  I
    pulled out the old tube, located the hole and slapped a patch on it
    in no time at all and found myself right back on the road.  "Coming
    on!"   At least for another 10 minutes, when the front tire went
    flat. "Coming off, again!" It was a test.  It had to be a Divine Test
    to see how badly did I really want to make this trip.  I hadn't spent
    months of training, riding through pouring rainstorms and over
    mountain passes to be beaten by a measly little flat tire.  I kept
    the spirit as the front tire was patched.  I must say that with the
    little frame pump trying to get each of these tires back to 100
    pounds of pressure was certainly building the upper body muscles.  I
    was beginning to look like Arnold Schwarzen... the Terminator!  I
    also found humor (believe me, I was looking for everything I could
    find!) in the conversations taking place as the cyclists would pass
    me on the road.  Everything from discussions of last night's hangover
    to the gross sales of my company to computer software.  This ride had
    every type/size/shape/income/age of rider you could imagine.  
    I remember thinking as I was putting the third tire back on that if
    this kept up I was going to hate the heat and humidity more as the
    sun beat down.  Some scene from Death Valley Days ran through my
    mind.  Where was Ronald Reagan when you needed him.  "Coming on!" as
    I was now convinced that no one got 3 flat tires in the first 10
    miles of RAGBRAI.  I owed my self a reward and stopped at my first
    lemonade stand of the week.  Couple of conversations and a tall cold
    glass of lemonade later, I checked the pressure on both tires and hit
    the road.  Too much lemonade because 100 feet down the road, the rear
    tire was flat again.  Okay, let's think this through logically.  What
    was I doing wrong.  Nothing - it was a new hole each time; I was
    checking the tire to see if I hadn't left a nail in the tire,
    everything just by the book.  Some poor soul from Dallas stopped
    along the road for a rest as I was patching the fourth tire.  He was
    on RAGBRAI because his wife had talked him into it but he really
    didn't see why it was such a big deal.  I really began to wonder
    about what kind of luck I was putting out into this ride as the guy
    fell off his bike when he tried to get back onto the road!  I started
    looking around for the hidden cameras!  As I pulled out on the road,
    the front tire was already flat.  It was getting comical.
    Finally, another five miles down the road, and my final flat, the
    Angel of RAGBRAI drove up - the Sag Wagon.  The god of Repairman.  I
    halfway expected to see someone from Bossellman's Truck Stop get out
    of the Van!  The guys got out of the car and after I wept non stop
    for 10 minutes I told them my morning progress.  They pulled both
    tires off the bike, which they had placed on their
    rear-bumper-mounted bike rack and immediately identified the problem
    as the tubes were too small.  The tubes were too small!  The
    innertubes were too small for the tire!  The guys who sold me the new
    tires, sold me the wrong size tubes and every time I had them
    inflated to Arnold's 100 psi, the tire found the first chance to
    squeeze them at just the right angle and pop another hole.  It made
    all the sense in the world to me!  That's why they were driving a car
    and I was riding a bicycle across the state of Iowa!  It took them
    all of 3 minutes to swap both tires and sell me another spare.  I
    gave them my holy tubes and watched them sail out of sight.  Was I
    dreaming, or were they just another test of the reason I was riding?
    Naw - I distinctly heard several people holler at them as they rode
    by; obviously, they had saved more than one soul in previous rides.
    The rest of the day's ride was good enough to make me forget all
    about my troubles.  I pulled into Shenandoah about 5:00 that night
    and shared with them the legend of the Five Flat Tires.  Karen had
    just begun to worry but she did call it right - she told others that
    I was having problems with the new tires.  What a lady!  Fortunately,
    that night was one of our more pleasant stays.  We ate a wonderful
    lasagna dinner, had a choice of 3 different desserts and got a
    comfortable carpeted basement floor to sleep on.  It was really a
    time for telling stories of the day, listening to stories from Rich's
    folks about previous Shen RAGBRAI's, and all-in-all a very good night
    just for "team bonding" for lack of better terms.  We wandered
    downtown, watched a few bands, checked out other weary-looking people
    and went back "home" to bed.  Rich's mom, in the meantime, had
    finished a load of our laundry and hung it out to dry.  Were we
    spoiled, or what?!  His Dad came in with the new forecast for
    tomorrow though - cloudy and rainy the rest of the week.  I remember
    thinking - this'll probably be the wettest, worst RAGBRAI on record.
    Boy, was I having fun!
    The next morning, Monday morning, was in fact cloudy but there were
    only occasional spits of rain in the air.  Everyone hopped on the
    bikes and caught up with the rest of the traffic that had spent the
    night in their tents on the campgrounds.  Monday & Tuesday were
    supposed to be the longest days of the week and I was glad we got a
    good night's sleep.  The fact that Rich's Mom got up to fix us
    breakfast didn't hurt either.
    The rides over the next several days were filled with hundreds of
    conversations.  I'd meet someone riding at their speed, chat for a
    while, ride on, more conversations, more places.  There was
    additional fuel as we stopped at the lemonade stands, cinnamon roll
    stands, pancake stands, etc., about every 10 miles.  I was going to
    attempt to keep a diary of each day as we got to the camp site but by
    the time we showered, ate, looked around town it was 9:00 and
    everyone was beat.  The specifics of the days aren't remembered but
    the memory of miles of conversations with total strangers, beautiful
    rolling hills of green and, of course, great food along the way will
    always be there.  The hills were a big issue on Monday and Tuesday
    coming from Bedford to Osceola but after awhile, they all just ran
    together.  Oh - another hill.  More talking, more eating.  
    I must mention the Tuesday Century Ride though.  When we left Bedford
    Tuesday morning, all 9 of us were discussing the day and how we felt.
    There was a certain 26 mile loop that riders could take if they
    wanted to do the official Century Ride - make it a 100 mile ride for
    the day.  Unfortunately, the loop was toward the beginning of the day
    and the last thing I remember hearing was "yea, let's all do it".
    So, silly me, not being one to be a party pooper, decided that I'd
    take the Century Loop when it came up about 30 miles into the
    standard 74 mile ride.  I felt even more challenged when the majority
    of the people I was riding with at the time went straight ahead
    without taking the loop.  Our Team Skidmark was pretty well
    distributed with their riding skills and shape so we rarely stayed
    together during the ride as a Team.  I figured I'd meet up with them
    later; no biggee.  It was a pretty difficult (hilly) ride, but as
    usual, the food seemed to break up the pain.  By the time I hit the
    main road again, I was wondering if I'd done the right thing but
    there was no taking it back now - I had to finish the normal course.
    About 5:30 that night, I rolled into camp, with everyone else sitting
    around sipping on their beer.  "Where have you been" was the
    unanimous question, although I knew they all meant "how many flat
    tires today?".  No one else had felt up to taking the 100 miles!
    What wimps!  I reminded them of the conversation that morning and
    they said they'd changed their minds after I left.  Good for a few
    laughs as they scraped me off the bike seat!  Total miles for the day
    101.4 miles.
    I'll mention here that this was when Karen became the most popular
    person in the Team.  Because she had all the extra time on her hands
    and she felt like contributing something, she had every one of the 7
    tents set up every night, including the big 6-person tent.  In
    addition, she always had the cooler full of ice, the chairs assembled
    in a neat semi-circle and every thing in just perfect shape.  I felt
    like hollering "June, I'm home" after each day of riding with the way
    she had it looking.  She was truly a remarkable campsite mama!  Her
    comment: "I just wanted to make it real hard on whoever follows me
    next year!"  She did.
    Osceola found us with one more addition to the ACI clan and Team
    Skidmark.  One of the ladies who had commitments earlier in the week,
    met up with us halfway and started riding from there.  That's the
    other memorable part of this vacation that's always going to be with
    me.  We fit into this group of total strangers like another family
    and just had a blast through the entire week.  Everyone had a dry
    sense of humor, liked riding, varied in ages but not too much, had
    about the same career, liked people, and had come along because they
    wanted to.  It made the trip so much nicer. 
    Actually, the dry sense of humor was most valuable, especially
    outside of Osceola.  About 2:00 that morning we got hit with
    Hurricane RAGBRAI - rain blowing sideways, tents blowing down,
    lightning, thunder.  But guess who slept through most of it - that
    one person in the whole group who'd ridden 101 miles the day before!
    Actually, the wind was so bad it snapped a pole in the big tent and
    once that one came down, everything else was in the direct path.  It
    was a pretty exciting night; so much so that we held a meeting the
    next morning to vote on whether or not we sat this day out.  I was
    not even considering it; what's a little wind - you just ride slower.
    And none of us were going to melt in the rain.  Let's take these cows
    to Missouri.  We had a short breakfast and went back outside to find
    the rain had stopped and the wind was a gentle breeze.  Shows what a
    little determination will get you!  Only one person ended up sitting
    the day out; everyone else rode.  
    That afternoon (Wednesday) I think everyone was glad they decided to
    ride.  The welcome we got riding into Des Moines was quite the hero's
    welcome.  People lining the streets cheering, bands playing, banners
    and flags flying.  It was yet another one of the incredible feelings
    that helped make it a great week.  We were staying with a
    brother-in-law of Rick that night so it was another sleeping bags on
    the carpet night.  The 3 kids who lived there thought it was great to
    have this giant sleep-over.  They even made a banner to hang on the
    front of the house with all of our names on it, and it was complete
    with the detail right down to the flat tires on one of the bikes.
    Word spreads fast in that state...   Karen even moved another notch
    up on her pedestal when she fixed the broken tent pole with duct tape
    and a steel rod.  All of the camping stores had exhausted their
    supply of tent poles from the previous night's storm, so Karen
    improvised - the little Miss MacGuyver!
    Thursday night we were in Oskaloosa but what made the trip so
    memorable from Des Moines was the conversation at breakfast.  I'd
    stopped for the Pancake Man with one of my other Team mates I
    discovered along the way.  We were talking with a lady from New
    Jersey about the trip, the weather and the distance of the day's
    ride.  She had added up the mileage between towns and only come up
    with 58 miles instead of the posted "official" 73 miles.  We checked
    our maps and sure enough, they'd made a typo.  The day's trip was
    only 58 miles and we were already 30 miles into it!  Now, when you're
    in a car, that 15 miles can be a matter of minutes but on a bicycle
    it's a free hour or more, depending on how many Pancakes you've had.
    Speaking of food, let me just spend a minute talking about some of
    the food we found during the week.  On the road, there was usually
    the Pancake man about 20 miles outside of town.  He'd serve up all
    the cakes and sausage you could eat for $3 along with coffee and/or
    OJ.  He'd flip the pancakes to you - from about 10 feet away - and
    whatever you caught, you ate.  The brave folks would get 20, 30, 40
    feet and more from the grille - and he'd still make it.  The Pork
    Chops man was another favorite.  This guy would position his stand
    about 40 miles out of town - so you had just enough time to work off
    that last pancake before lining it with a good layer of pork chops.
    You'd smell them from a mile away.  Then you'd start to hear the guy
    - "P o o o r r r k k k  C h h h o o o p p p s s s ! ! !" in this real
    deep hog-calling voice.  The chops were just your basic 2" thick Iowa
    Pork Chops that were slapped on a bbq grill and handed to you with a
    napkin.  That along with a glass of lemonade and you got pretty near
    pure Heaven.  Some of the other popular places included the Turkey
    stands (turkey legs or marinated turkey breasts), Dove Bar stands,
    frozen Snicker Bar stands, or just the old home-cooked, cookie and
    cinnamon roll stands.  And that was just on the road!  In town at
    night, they'd always have the stands of bbq ribs and sandwiches,
    steaks, baked potatoes, brat's, (mouth watering yet?), and then
    dessert stands.  And the churches!  In Bedford, they had 12 churches
    within a 3 block radius, all offering a different meal.  The only way
    you could justify eating as much as we did was to tell yourself that
    you'll have to ride 80 miles the next day to work it off! 
    The last day, Saturday, we rode from Mt. Pleasant into Keokuk, an
    "average" ride at this point of about 75 miles.  What made Saturday
    different was that everyone was looking forward to the finish and the
    sun actually came out.  Throughout the week, the temperature didn't
    reach the 80 degree mark until Saturday at about 1:00 p.m.  By then,
    I was 30 miles from the finish line and nothing could've stopped me
    (with the obvious exception of more lemonade and homemade pie).  They
    saved the worst hill for last - I had these great expectations of
    screaming when I crossed the finish line.  As I reached the top of
    the hill, Karen, one other Skidmark team member and some of the
    family members of people we rode with were waving, hollering,
    cheering and giving quite the welcome home cheer.  I had just enough
    breath left to give one measly yell but I think the smile on my face
    was screaming in volumes.  I went straight to the "dipping station"
    where the front tire went into the Mississippi (before we left CB, we
    stopped at Long's Landing to dip the rear tire in the Missouri).  
    That night, we stayed with Rick's in-laws in a mansion which
    overlooked the Mississippi River.    After taking a brief tour of the
    town, Team Skidmark returned to the mansion and celebrated in style
    with a little champagne, spaghetti dinner and God's own light show.
    It was as if the skies had been holding off for us to finish the ride
    and couldn't wait any longer.  Since Karen and I were the only
    official couple, we were given one of the 14 bedrooms and a real live
    bed - the first one since we'd left Mom and Dad's.  We fell asleep
    that night watching the lightning fill the room as my legs felt like
    they were still pedaling and my seat didn't feel anything.
    The return trip on Sunday was pretty quiet.  No one could believe
    we'd been that far on bicycles and yet no one really wanted it to be
    over.  Most of the team, with the exception of Karen and I , work
    together and all had to go back to work on Monday.  Karen, Tim and I
    stayed around CB to rest, celebrate Tim's birthday and visit.  As I
    write this, and remember the week, it seems that it went so fast.  I
    told the stories at work today about 40 times to people who had never
    seen Iowa or RAGBRAI but it just wasn't the same.  I guess that's why
    they call it a vacation.  It was one of the best and I'm planning on
    repeating RAGBRAI again next year with anyone who wants to join me.
    It was hard work, but it was fun work.  Anytime you can spend a week
    eating like that and still lose 10 pounds it's worth it.  
    That's the story of this year's Ride.  Thanks for listening and
    letting me "ride" it again from the comfort of my room.  See you next
    year if you're up to the eating!
    
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