T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1108.1 | try gloves? | LEVERS::LANDRY | | Fri Apr 14 1989 00:07 | 11 |
|
I didn't have wrist pain but had some numbness in my arms
after every ride for a while last year. Solved it by buying
some Spenco gel gloves. Never had the problem again. If
you try them make sure you get the regular gloves, not the
"racing" ones which don't have much gel. At $25, they're
expensive, but for me they solved the problem, so were
worth it.
chris
|
1108.2 | check out your geometry | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Fri Apr 14 1989 01:10 | 19 |
| .1 has the correct advice, I think.
However, as someone who's never managed to feel comfortable in
cycling gloves, I had the same problem with one of my bikes,
and traced it to other causes... with other solutions.
Moving from my Fiorelli (which broke) to the Baldi, the wrists
started giving me problems. Why? The handlebars were narrower,
and the top-tube was shorter. This put me in a tenser, more
crouched riding position, with the wrists more "cocked."
I helped alleviate this problem with semi-padded handlebar tape
("Bike Tape"). But the advice suggested by this is: go for the
gloves, but also check out the frame- and handlebar-dimensions
(plus your overall riding stance) to make sure you aren't
contorting your physiognomy overly much. Even with gloves,
you will come out ahead if your stance is comfortable.
-john
|
1108.3 | Make changes SLOWLY (small increments) | NAC::KLASMAN | | Fri Apr 14 1989 08:46 | 19 |
| < Note 1108.2 by SHALOT::ELLIS "John Lee Ellis - assembly required" >
-< check out your geometry >-
I agree with John. If your new bike puts you in a significantly different
position, who knows what kind of aches and pains will develop until you get
used to the new position. If you ever do. I would imagine there's quite a
difference between the bikes.
When I bought a new bike last year, I made the mistake of just guessing that
the new bike was set up right. It felt ok. I went out and rode hard and
injured a knee. I THEN checked out the bike and found the seat fore/aft
position was significantly different. Now I take great care to ensure that my
seat position on all 3 of my road bikes is EXACTLY the same. And my knees are
fine (well almost).
When changing position on the bike, the general consensus is to make the
changes in very small increments to allow your body to adjust.
Kevin
|
1108.4 | Don't forget weights | CYBORG::D_LINNUS | | Fri Apr 14 1989 09:56 | 12 |
|
Along with all the other good advice already given here,
don't forget good ole' weight work. I personally am a strong advocate
of weights and feel that if you were to do some wrist curls, standard
and reverse, using moderate weight, this would strengthen the wrists
to give you the added support you need. Probably 3 sets of each,
8 - 12 repetitions, two or three times a week is all it would take.
I think you would see great improvements after 2 weeks of this,
but don't stop there either. Good luck !........
Dave
|
1108.5 | bars at a different angle?? | NWACES::FROLICH | Bob | Fri Apr 14 1989 11:19 | 9 |
| Were you riding on the "drops"? I'm just wondering....if your bars
were set at an angle different from your previous bike and you were
on the drops then perhaps your wrists were at a different angle. This
"may" be a possible source for your problem.
Good luck..
Bob
|
1108.6 | Don't ride in the same position | MCIS2::DELORIEA | Common sense isn't | Fri Apr 14 1989 11:37 | 7 |
| Changing hand position more often help also. When I notice my elbows getting
stiff I move my hands from the drops to the brakehoods, to the top of the bar
when climbing. The more I change hand position the less my elbows and hands
hurt and get stiff.
Tom
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1108.7 | road vibration being transmitted to your wrists... | AHOUSE::ACKLEY | Still the King of Nothing | Fri Apr 14 1989 12:13 | 14 |
|
I've had this problem with two different bikes. It seems to be
caused by the overall stiffness of the front end of the bike.
If the wheel is real tight, and the fork is stiff and the handlebars
have no flex, then all the road bumps are transmitted into your
hands and arms. I agree with .1 that gloves might help,
and with the other suggestion someone made that handlebar padding
might help. Another option is longer handlebars, or lighter
weight bars that might flex more, allowing for more shock
absorbing. If you ever get around to changing wheels on
that bike, go for low flange hubs that will also absorb some
more shock than high flange hubs would.
Alan.
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1108.8 | "The Wind Is Never At Your Back" | HUSKER::DURLING | Into The Wind! | Fri Apr 14 1989 13:34 | 20 |
| Thanks to everyone for getting back....
Re: 1108.1
I have been using cycling gloves, although they are about two years
old. They don't look worn, but they could be. They still appear
to have pleanty of padding on the palm. How do you tell if cycling
gloves are worn. On the Spenco gloves do they make much of a
difference from standard cycling gloves?
Re: 1108.4:
I have been working out with weights all winter, but I have not
done any wrist curls, I will give this a try.
Re 1108.5 & 7:
According to the kit fit the standard stem and bar would not do.
So the bike shop installed a cenelli bar and stem, I'm uncertain
what size thought. The new bar does feel a lot stiffer then my old
set up. In addition the new bar is much narrower then the my old
bars.
|
1108.9 | | LEVERS::LANDRY | | Fri Apr 14 1989 13:42 | 17 |
|
> Re: 1108.1
> I have been using cycling gloves, although they are about two years
> old. They don't look worn, but they could be. They still appear
> to have pleanty of padding on the palm. How do you tell if cycling
> gloves are worn. On the Spenco gloves do they make much of a
> difference from standard cycling gloves?
The Spenco's make a BIG difference. I was using standard
gloves when Ihad the problems mentioned in .1 - switching
to Spenco solved the problem. If you sqeuuze the palm of
the glove between your fingers the gel feels kind of
weird but all you notice when riding is the extra padding.
chris
|
1108.10 | | AHOUSE::ACKLEY | Still the King of Nothing | Fri Apr 14 1989 13:51 | 20 |
| RE: .8,
One of my bikes that had this problem also had Cinelli stem
and bars. This brand is often unusually stiffer than other brands.
I guess it wouldn't matter how long the bars are if you aren't
in the habit of holding on to the ends. Do you often hold on
right near the stem?
Another factor on both of my too-stiff bikes is that both
have very little fork rake, so that the front wheel rides very
close to the down tube. One was a Masi that had been
wrecked, making the fork angle even steeper, and increasing
the problem, but finally I sold that bike. On the other
bike I was able to alleviate the problem some by using fatter
tires, longer bars and padded grips.
Spenco gloves do have a lot more padding than most other
gloves.
Alan.
|