T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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145.1 | | APOLLO::DEHAHN | | Fri Sep 12 1986 08:22 | 19 |
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There are many in the Northeast area, most are framebuilders.
The good ones are:
Dave Hartranft, Lincoln, Ma.
Betsy Weigle, Essex? CT.
My favorite is my framebuilder (a biased opinion)
Ted Wojcik
Salisbury, Ma.
617-388-4150
mention my name
Chris DeHahn
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145.2 | More on Hartranft | EUCLID::PAULHUS | | Fri Sep 12 1986 12:35 | 10 |
|
Hartranft's number is (617) 259-8475. His shop getts chilly in
the winter, and the paint oven doesn't get up to full temp, so
he preferrs to stop doing paint jobs at the end of October. He's
getting my Lotus for a 3-stage fade Imron job next month (blue to
white to blue). He did a pretty good job on my streamliner chassis
(some corrections by someone else needed) so I know his framebuilding
is passable, and I've seen the beautiful paint jobs he does. - Chris
ps. He's at 11 Lewis St., near Lincoln Guide Service, just on the
other side of the RR tracks.
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145.3 | What do they charge? | HOW::BUFFO | | Wed Sep 17 1986 21:08 | 7 |
| Approximately how much does such a paint job cost?
My paint can use some attention, but I haven't decided whether to
try "patching" it myself or have a professional do it right.
Thanks,
David Buffo
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145.4 | | SUPER::CONNELL | | Thu Sep 18 1986 11:32 | 7 |
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RE: .3
You could pay $100 for a top quality job, including some preparation.
Chuck
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145.5 | $200+ is possible | EUCLID::PAULHUS | | Thu Sep 18 1986 11:39 | 4 |
|
You could pay over $200 for a top quality, multi-color fade, Imron,
baked, paint job with total sand-blasting strip, and maybe a braze-on
or three. - Chris who wants a Counterpoint.
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145.6 | serious costs money | APOLLO::DEHAHN | | Thu Sep 18 1986 13:29 | 10 |
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Example:
Dave Hartranft charges $140 for a single color Imron job, no striping,
color banding, fading etc.
That's about average.
CdH
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145.7 | Yet More on Hartranft | RAWBTS::CRABB | | Fri Sep 19 1986 18:12 | 0 |
145.8 | Yet More on Hartranft | RAWBTS::CRABB | | Fri Sep 19 1986 18:23 | 21 |
|
< Note 145.2 by EUCLID::PAULHUS >
-< More on Hartranft >-
> ...His shop getts chilly in the winter, and the paint oven doesn't get
> up to full temp, so he preferrs to stop doing paint jobs at the end of
> October...
His shop does get a bit cool in the winter...I guess he builds
frames during the winter, but does he batch them all in for
painting in the Spring?
I have a frame built by him and like it and the paint job.
Prices seem to have gone up a lot since I bought it though.
Does anyone have more input on Connecticut builders?
/Charlie
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145.9 | | APOLLO::DEHAHN | | Mon Sep 22 1986 08:57 | 13 |
|
The two CT builders of note are Richard Sachs and Peter Weigle.
Both do excellent work. Peter's wife Betsy does the painting for
his frames. Richard sends his out, last time we talked he was giving
the work to CycleArt.
Both builders aren't cheap, on the order of $1000-1200 for a full
custom frame. They do, however, produce stock sized frames for
considerably less.
CdH
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145.10 | Business card... | VIKING::WASSER | John A. Wasser | Tue Dec 02 1986 09:24 | 16 |
|
The Nashoba Valley Pedelers got the following card in the mail:
+----------------------------------------------------------+
| |
| STRIP 'N SPLATTER |
| Custom Bicycle Refinishing |
| ---------------------------------------------------- |
| Salem, Massachusetts |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| LAWRIE PINKHAM (617) 741-2613 |
| |
+----------------------------------------------------------+
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145.11 | painting in DC area - see Ned & Fred | SUSHI::KMACDONALD | Macarooned on a Dessert Island | Tue Apr 21 1987 12:31 | 5 |
| In the Washington DC area, I had a frame painted (sandblasted, painted, and
new lettering applied) by Alpine Cycles in Rockville, MD. Did a real nice
job. They also build nice frames..... don't have a # handy for them.
ken
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145.12 | How about CXO? or DIY? | CXUNIX::BEATY | Mike Beaty, Colorado Springs | Thu Aug 11 1988 19:53 | 19 |
| I bought a bicycle at a police auction that was in decent shape.
I have stripped the paint off and cleaned up some bad spots and
now want to get it repainted. This isn't a racing bike, but isn't
a Huffy either :-).
I don't need anything extra fancy, but I am looking for a decent
job that will last awhile. Something that covers well, looks
semi-respectable ;-), and won't chip easily.
I called a bicycle shop or two and asked about this, but the
closest recommended place is in Boulder. I have thought about
calling an auto painting shop, but haven't done this yet. Any
Coloradoans here that could recommend a place near the Springs?
Any experienced painters have hints for me if I should decide to
do it myself? I have borrowed a small spray painting rig but
don't have any experience using it.
Thanks in advance!
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145.13 | Suggestions | PSG::BUCHANAN | Bat | Fri Aug 12 1988 14:37 | 16 |
| Since this is a police auction bike I'm guessing you don't want to spend a lot
of money. Go ahead and call some auto body shops. It shouldn't be a big deal
for them especially if you will take the same color that they are currently
painting on a car. I once worked in a body shop and I never heard of anyone
doing this so I can't say for sure but it doesn't cost to try. By the way,
speaking from experience most guys who work in auto shops are not bicycle
fans, you know the roads are for cars not bicycles, so don't expect to get
the job for free.
But the cheapest way is to just do it yourself. I did this once a few years
ago with an old bike and it worked fine. If you have the frame stripped
then just hang it by a string through the bottom bracket from the ceiling
and paint it with spray cans. You will only need a can of metal primer,
a couple cans of your favorite color and maybe a can of clear top coat.
Just remember to tape over the any threads first.
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145.14 | What do I look for? | TRUCKS::REEVE | Nicht neues im Westen What a Remarque | Fri Dec 02 1988 06:27 | 8 |
| What are the major things to look out for in getting a frame repainted?
If anyone has any recommendations on shops in or near Southampton,
U.K., that would also be appreciated. I assume that Dupont Imron
is the paint of choice. Also, personal recommendations strike me
as the most reliable form of reference. What else am I missing?
Thanks for your help. One advantage of the U.K. weather is I can
still ride to work during the 'winter'. More like fall, really.
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145.15 | some things, and a shop nowhere near you :-) | SUSHI::KMACDONALD | loose chips sink mips | Fri Dec 02 1988 08:54 | 17 |
| > What are the major things to look out for in getting a frame repainted?
I'd go looking for someone who builds frames (as opposed to a shop that
paints an occasional frame). Look at the frames they've painted, see if
they did a nice job. Check out some of their bikes that have been on the
road for a couple years if possible. If you have chrome on your bike (or
want it when they refinish it) ask how they're going to handle it. I
think removing chrome will required sandblasting the frame, and it seems
like this may be the best way to handle your old paint, too. Ask what
they're going to do about replacing any insignia (decals, 531 sticker,
head tube crest, bike name, pin stripes, whatever).
Not in your area, but if there's anyone in the Washington DC area who
wants a frame painted (or a frame) check out Alpine [Cycles? Frame
Shop?] in Rockville MD. I'm riding one of their frames and have two of
their paint jobs. Real nice work, I'd say.
ken
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145.16 | clear-coat, braze-ons, bricolage! | CASEE::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Fri Dec 02 1988 10:47 | 27 |
| RE: .-2 (and .-1)
I agree with .-1 -- ask questions about sandblasting, decals,
and clear-coat over the Imron (yes, a good choice) and the
decals. I had my bike repainted in Durham NC by a guy who
paints frames, and he did a great job. He masked the chrome
that wasn't rust-damaged, and sandblasted the rest of the
frame. You get the frame back and you have to let it cure
for a bit. (Previous notes may have mentioned this.)
Also decide if there are more braze-ons you'd like - e.g.,
for rear carrier or front panniers or that third water-bottle
cage, or shifters (if you don't have that kind already)...
this is your chance.
By the way, when aforesaid nicely repainted bike two years later
(a year ago) finally cracked (from age, not from the paint job!),
I was in Reading, and went to my bike-shop person in Twyford, Berks,
who said he had someone who would replace the tube and then repaint
the bike. I declined (age of the bike), and so I have no idea the
calibre of the painter, etc. - but it's a lead if all else fails
down south in Southampton. The shop-owner is Peter Hare, at
Twyford (734?) 340-408, who I judged to be quite good.
Good luck.
-john
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145.17 | Dave Russell Cycles - recommended | RDGENG::MACFADYEN | Roderick MacFadyen | Fri Dec 02 1988 11:16 | 23 |
| I've just had my Harry Hall touring frame fixed, enhanced and painted
by Dave Russell Cycles in Slough (phone 0753 29880) (UK).
This is a terrific shop. It's smallish, untidy, and full of fabulous
bikes and top-range components. He used to race, so is very into
building racing frames. He's 753 accredited, I think. His own frames
are very nice indeed, and usually have a fastback seat cluster (I think
that's the right phrase!).
I bent the top tube on my bike. He replaced that (very cleanly), and I
also had him add cantilever brake bosses and braze-on gear lever
fittings. Then I had it painted bright yellow.
When I went to collect it, he had one or two things still to do to the
bike, one of which was replace the 531 decal. He was able to do this
with the exact same decal, which pleased me - he said something about
how sometimes you can only get a 531 "respray" decal, which wouldn't
have been as satisfactory.
Only thing is, should I get a clear top-coat now that all the transfers
are on, and what could happen if I don't?
Rod
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145.18 | Questions, questions | BIS::MACFADYEN | Requiring only money and taste | Tue Feb 07 1989 13:05 | 11 |
| (Re myself in -1)
I'd still like to hear opinions as to the worth/necessity of a clear
topcoat on a newly painted frame. Will the transfers fall off in the
rain if I don't varnish the frame? What's a good varnish to use? Is it
practicable for me to do it?
All you knowledgeable types out there must know...
Rod
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145.19 | go for the topcoat! | AHOUSE::ACKLEY | Still the King of Nothing | Tue Feb 07 1989 15:07 | 12 |
|
I think a clear topcoat is a good idea if you want to keep
your decals. I had a Masi with a clear finish over the decals
and that bike kept looking good for years longer than other
bikes where the decals were just on top of the paint. If
the decals aren't covered, they can be messed up by bicycle
work stands or even just by sweaty hands if you carry the bike
up and down the stairs...
The more coats the better. A nice thick finish really
looks nice.
Alan.
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145.20 | Decal Schizophrenia | ATLAST::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Tue Feb 07 1989 19:16 | 10 |
|
The decals on my bike that had no clearcoat rapidly acquired
a schizoid character (or schizoid characters, rather), that
eventually rubbed off in parts completely.
My new bike has clearcoat and looks great. I'm getting the
other repainted with Imron, and the guy is going to clearcoat
over the decals as a matter of course. That seems the way to go.
-john
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145.21 | IMRON peeling? | EXPERI::MENTAL | | Mon Aug 30 1993 09:39 | 14 |
|
Anybody have problems with IMRON paint flaking or peeling?
Over the weekend I removed a piece of tape that I put on to
protect the paint from a pump bracket. When I took the tape
off, a 1/2" square chunk of paint peeled off with it.
The bike is only 4 months old (a Santana tandem). It has IMRON
paint w/ clearcoat over top. I'd expect this stuff to hold up
better than that. Oh well, guess I'll be calling the bike shop
today.
/ken
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145.22 | Ditto | ODIXIE::RRODRIGUEZ | Sign Here X__________ | Mon Aug 30 1993 10:16 | 6 |
| Yes. I repainted a bike with IMRON a couple of years ago and
it flaked (pinhead sized) in several places before I had even
ridden it for two weeks. The painter's solution was to send
me a bottle of touch-up paint. I wasn't satisfied.
r�
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145.23 | Let the phone calls and letters begin! | NCBOOT::PEREZ | Trust, but ALWAYS verify! | Mon Aug 30 1993 11:29 | 10 |
| It has been a while but I recall some of the folks painting race cars
with Imron. The stuff was very durable and held up well, but was
EXTREMELY SUSCEPTIBLE TO PREPARATION. They went through tremendous
gyrations to get the surface properly prepared or the paint flaked,
peeled, came off in clumps, etc. Perhaps on your Santana they had a
problem with the surface prep? Or, if the primer is staying on the
metal, there may have been an incompatibility between the Imron and the
primer... In either case, the mfr should FIX the problem, not just
hand you a bottle of touch-up paint... Cannondale has replaced frames
for defective paintwork.
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145.24 | | EXPERI::MENTAL | | Wed Sep 01 1993 11:23 | 18 |
|
We took the bike out to the shop (Belmont Wheelworks) to
let them have a look at it. They're going to ship the bike back to
Santana this winter to have it "evaluated." Most likely they'll
repaint it.
He said that if it had happened on a chainstay, then they may not
paint it because that area takes alot of abuse. The problem with
ours happened on the diagonal tube below the stoker.
A big clue: On the paint near the peeled section, there are what
look like a couple pieces of fuzz under the paint. I figure I put
the tape on a piece of painted fuzz, and it lifted right off.
thanks for the input,
/ken
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