T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1858.1 | | ESBS01::RUTTER | Rut The Nut | Mon Aug 10 1992 10:07 | 24 |
| � I recently replaced my radiator on my 10 year old Mazda. The mechanic
� at the shop advised me not to use any coolant in the radiator because
� they tend to be corrosive and 'eats up' the radiator. Only plain water
� is used currently in my rad.
Was this mechanic at the 'radiator shop' ?
I haven't heard of problems with anti-freeze (I gather that's what
you meant) corroding radiators !
I have heard of serious problems with frozen blocks/radiators/hoses
(although not a concern at this time of year in the UK). If your
Mazda engine has alloy components (head and/or block) then it is
highly recommended that you do use an anti-freeze additive in your
coolant system. Corrosion occurs in alloy quite easily with plain water.
I have heard that the coolant additive is supposed to help work as a
lubricant on the water pump, but don't know how true it is.
This is the first time I have heard anyone recommend that a normal
(road car) engine is run using plain water as a coolant. I, for one,
would not trust this piece of advice at all...
J.R.
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1858.2 | Heavy on the Glycol | ROCKS::ARBISER | If you want it done well - DIY | Mon Aug 10 1992 10:42 | 9 |
|
I agree totally with the previous note. Having not used a heavy collant
mix in the first 5 years of running my Golf it caused large amounts of
rust and crud to build up in the header tank, and eventaul hot running
problems on hills. After sorting this out with flushing agents I
started to use a glycol mix and have found that for the past 3 years
the system has become stable and no longer thows up brown sludge!
Ian
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1858.3 | ALLOY = ANTI-FREEZE with INHIBITOR | ALBURT::LEWIS | | Mon Aug 10 1992 11:13 | 8 |
| I just changed to coolant in my car this weekend, the Ford dealer said
that you need to use anti-freeze that has an inhibitor in it, this is
because of the alloy head, etc. Also the mix is pretty strong too. 50%
anti-freeze + 50% water.
One thing to watch out for is if there is a leak or a crack in a
casting somewhere in the cooling system, the anti-freeze will find it.
Neil
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1858.4 | | AEOEN1::MATTHEWS | M&M Enterprises, the CATCH 22 | Mon Aug 10 1992 12:11 | 6 |
| Assuming "plain water" is "demineralised", and that you don't need
an anti-freeze, and that the engine/head is not alluminium (or alloy),
then you should be OK.
If the engine/head is alloy, then add an inhibitor.
|
1858.5 | ?? | TRUCKS::BEATON_S | I Just Look Innocent | Mon Aug 10 1992 14:28 | 8 |
| I have been told that anti-freeze should not come into contact with the
car's paint job on the body (or wherever) as this will damage the
finish rather severly. Maybe your mechanic was referring to your car's
paintwork with regard to the coolant's 'corrosive' effect ?
Regards,
Stephen
|
1858.6 | Corrosive colants | CURRNT::CARSON | | Mon Aug 10 1992 16:38 | 5 |
| I also agree with .1 and .2, I got ticked of by the serviceing people at
Toyota for putting water in my coolant system on my Supra. They tell me that
only a special coolant (sold by them of course) should be used, as it it contains
rust inhibitors. Their general advise though (and it applies to most cars) is
NOT to use water alone.
|
1858.7 | Use the Anti-freeze!!!! | TLE::LEGERLOTZ | Alan Legerlotz: Repository Engineering | Mon Aug 10 1992 19:25 | 12 |
| I don't know ANYONE that uses straight water in their cooling system.
I am in the US, however, so maybe people in England still use straight
water, since the temperature in certain places doesn't get all that
low.
The stuff that they sell in the US is "Antifreeze - Antiboil". Its
designed to inhibit rust, lower the freezing temperature of the mixture
and to raise the boiling point of the mixture. I'm don't know the
chemistry of this wizardry, but I know that I've never had a radiator
rust, boil over, or freeze.
-Al
|
1858.8 | Coolant to be used | ZPOVC::MICHAELLEE | | Tue Aug 11 1992 14:46 | 16 |
|
Okay. Looks as though I need to add in the coolant after all. The last
radiator lasted about 100k miles with coolant usage. Is this a 'fair
mileage' ?
I am going to use a 500ml can of TURBO RADIATOR COOLANT manufactured
by BESPAC INDUSTRIES USA, 1 LINCOLN PLAZA, NEW YORK, NY 10023, USA.
Has anyone ever used this brand of coolant before? Any problems with
copper core radiators?
Btw, one of my buddies in the local DEC office recommends ULTRAFLOW, a
coolant normally recommended by FIAT cars. Now, they are famous for
rusting so this brand should be quite safe for ANY car.(??)
Mike
|
1858.9 | 500 ml? I don't think so. | ARRODS::BARROND | Snoopy Vs the Red_Barron | Tue Aug 11 1992 16:10 | 10 |
| Mike
How much liquid does your cars cooling system take?
One 500 ml can seems to be just a tad too little IMHO.
I would use a mixture of 25-30% so assuming 10 litres capacity then 2.5
to 3 litres of coolant is required.
Dave
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1858.10 | 500ml seems okay | ZPOVC::MICHAELLEE | | Wed Aug 12 1992 03:37 | 7 |
|
My rad has a capacity of slightly over 4 litres. According to the
instructions printed on the can of coolant, the 500 ml is enough for a
normal size radiator.
Mike
|
1858.11 | So sorry! | ARRODS::BARROND | Snoopy Vs the Red_Barron | Wed Aug 12 1992 10:15 | 9 |
| Mike
Having re-read my reply I must apologise for misleading you. I had mixed
imperial and metric measurements.
I still reckon on 25% coolant to be the norm. Are motoring sundaries
expensive in Singapore? Oil, coolant, spark plugs etc?
Dave
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1858.12 | Cars and condos are the most expensive items | ZPOVC::MICHAELLEE | | Wed Aug 12 1992 11:56 | 10 |
|
re: .-1
The "perihperals" are cheap compared to the cost of owning a car.
A bottle of the TURBO coolant made in USA costs only $3.50, spark plugs
cost about $1.50 each for a standard Japanese brand (NGK etc) and the
lub oil costs about $20 for a 4 lit container. All prices are in Sing
dollars.
Mike
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