Conference terri::cars_uk

�How about any other kits ? The braking of the RHD VWs (based on A1 chassis) 
�is really bad. It does work but requires a heavy foot.
    
    Isn't the problem caused by the linkage across the engine bay which
    is used to 'convert' from lhd to rhd ?
    
    If so, I have a feeling a stronger tubular bar is available.
    That will improve the braking feel and translate more pedal
    effort into actual braking force.
    
    J.R.

     I can relate to this!
     
     The RHD conversion for the MK1 Golf was a bit of a mess up.  Something 
     like 9 pivot points, all adding to lost motion over time.
     
     
     A VW specialist tighened up the linkage for me (called 'raising the 
     pedel").  This made a big difference to feel not having to get both feet 
     on the brake to do an emergency stop!
     
     
     Another big improvement was replacing my worn front disks with new ones 
     (�50 a pair, vented fir a MK1 GTI).  Check the disk width to ensure it's 
     not near the minimum size, this really changes the fade characteristics 
     and feel.  I wouldn't have believed the difference!
     
     A cost-effective check is to ensure you're rear drum/shoes are working 
     properly.  There is an automatic wedge adjuster in most MK1 Models which 
     sometimes gets a little stuck.  It can be reached by removing the rear 
     wheel and using a very small screwdriver to hook into a small hole at the 
     bottom point of the wedge.  Then ensure it's pushed down nice and tight 
     (handbrake off at the time).  You'll find it at the 5 past one position 
     on the driver/right hand side rear wheel.  The left side is a mirror 
     image.
     
     Pad Compound:
     I did try Tar-Ox Pads, a harder compound said to be compatible with 
     standard disks.  However I think the wrong pads were sent, a very hard 
     racing compound; I allowed the pads 2 month's wear expecting the 
     graunching noises to go away!  I'm back on OE pads again.   Perhaps the 
     correct Tar-Ox pads would make a big difference (�50 for front set).
     
     Apparently Mintex 171(?) pads improve the feel but at the expense of 
     squeeling when not hot.
     
     Linkage:
     Fitting a big servo is really a workaround.  The problem is really the 
     linkage, LHD Golfs are superior in this respect.
     
     Autocavan produce a "Superbrake" linkage replacement made of a thick bar 
     which uses a twisting movement over the push/pull motion of the VW 
     original.  I think this is about �100 fitted.
     
     
     A very good VW/Porsche Specialist in the Basingstoke/Reading are is 
     Banus Motorsport  tel.0256 817685   The owner (Bob) is very knowledgable 
     on such things and can fit all the above mentioned changes.  
     
     I have some articles on the subject.  Let me know if you want me to put 
     them in the mail.
     
     Regards,
     Robert.

    Re: -1
    
    Hmmm, that's what I suspected but my mechanic seemed reluctant to touch
    the linkage - it's probably a not a pleasant job. Guess I'll take the
    car back to the VW agent. The disk, drum and pads seem fine, I didn't
    really remember seeing an automatic wedge adjuster, though... are you 
    referring to the rear drum brake cylinders ? 
    
    I've just changed the front pads - original VWs, costly and
    dust-pollutor but seems to work alright.
    
    Did tightening the linkage actually reduce the amount of pressure
    needed to do emergency stops ? My brakes have "sunk" a bit but will
    work decently with a heavy foot - which is why I thought a bigger servo
    pump might help lighten the pressure needed. 
    
    Yes, please articles on the wooden brake will certainly be appreciated.
    My mail address:   Seow-Hurn Lim @ZPO
    
    Regards
    
    Seow-Hurn

�     The RHD conversion for the MK1 Golf was a bit of a mess up.  Something 
�     like 9 pivot points, all adding to lost motion over time.
    
    This seems a strange setup.
    
    I would expect a few less pivot points, being :-
    
    1	the pedal bushing
    
    2	connection between pedal and 'push-rod'
    
    3	connection between 'push-rod' and lever arm, fixed to rod
    
    4+5	a bushing on each end of the horizontal rod from r.h.s. to l.h.s.
    
    6	connection between lever arm and master cylinder push-rod
    
    
    If this isn't how VW implemented the linkage, can you describe how
    the linkage works ?  My idea seems, to me, quite simple and still
    leaves a lot of scope for free play, or wasted pedal movement.
    
    J.R.

    RE: .-1
    
    Yeah, that's the ticket.  About 9 bush/pivot points in total.
    
    RE: .-2  The adjustment to the linkage was done in about 40 seconds and
    was down by the brake pedel, inside the car.  It did reduce effort
    required, because you don't have to push so far (and slightly because
    of the law of leverage).
    
    Another change I didn't mention was fitting Tar-Ox disks.  A
    replacement pair of disks for the MK1 to work with standard calipers and 
    within 13 inch wheels costs about �100 (plus the specific harder 
    Tar-Ox Pads at �50).  I think these are vented and slotted for beter
    cooling.  This is getting a bit serious though, however I wouldn have
    thought a new servo would be similarly expensive.
    
    Another interesting thing I found out when looking into this...  
    My Insurers did NOT take a disk/pad conversion as an excuse to 
    load my premium, as it was not considered to improve the 
    performance of the car.  Just a mechanical debug!
    
    Regards,
    Robert.