Conference terri::cars_uk

Mark

Assuming that your 1.1 Kent engine is the same one that used to be in the old
MkI/II Escorts, I'll dig out the Haynes manual tonight and post the answers 
here.

Dick

    It looks very similar to the one I used to have in the old
    Anglia !!!

    I suspect that it is exactly the same as the one in the Escort.
    
    Thanks ...

  Mark

    Mark
    
    According to Haynes, the answers are as follows (metric in parenthesis):
    
    Cylinder head bolts - 66 to 71 ft/lb (9.0 to 9.7 kg/m)
    Main bearing bolts - 55 to 60 ft/lb (7.5 to 8.2 kg/m)
    Big end bolts - 31 to 35 ft/lb (4.2 to 4.8 kg/m)
    Inlet valve clearance - cold - 0.008 in (0.20 mm)
    Exhaust valve clearance - cold - 0.022 in (0.55 mm)
    
    Two of the cylinder head bolts are longer than the other eight, but it
    doesn't say which they are. Make sure they go back in the holes that
    they came out of. Tightening sequence is:
    
                         Inlet Manifold
    
    Water         9      3     1     5     7
    Pump                                         Flywheel
                  8      6     2     4     10
    
                       Exhaust Manifold
    
    
    Big end bolts use locking tabs, not Nyloc, so buy new ones.   
    
    The gudgeon pins are held in place by internal circlips, so you'll need
    some suitable circlip pliers to get them out.
    
    Anything else, give me a call.
    
    Enjoy yourself                                             
    
    Dick

  My FORD manual recommends that the head bolts are tightened in 4 stages.

  I can't remember the intermediate one, but the first is finger tight (~5 ftlb)
the third is about 66/71 ftlb as mentioned in .3, and the fourth is to recheck
after 15mins warm up.

  Don't quote me on this, but I think that the 2nd one is around 45/50 ftlb, 
but I can't remember exactly.

		 Alan
		~~~~~~

Alan

You're correct, there are 5 stages of tightening the bolts

1	5 ft/lbs
2	21-31 ft/lbs
3	52-56 ft/lbs
4	66-71 ft/lbs after a 10 min wait
5	66-71 ft/lbs after engine has warmed up (15 mins @ 1000 rpm)

As they say, the intervening steps were omitted for clarity (!)

Dick

 Not bad from memory. 5,4, whats the difference ????

 
 Let me know how you got on,and any problems would you, as I have a 1300 which
is in need of sorting. Lack of compression on no.3, and exhaust gasses venting 
through the breathers leads me to beleive a ring, but I will probably be 
changing some other parts as it could well have done 83000 miles that engine !!


		 Alan
		~~~~~~

    My only comment so far is that getting the sump off with the
    engine still in the car, is no joke !!! There are two bolts
    at either end of the sump pan which are a real swine to get
    off without the use of a 1/4" drive socket set, and a variable
    angle drive.

    Without this, expect it to take about two hours to get them out !!!

    Looks like two pistons will need replacing, 2 and 3. One is holed,
    the other a bit melted around the edges ...

    When it is all back together, I think I'll have a go at trying to
    get the temperature gauge working :-( :-(

    Thanks for all the info ...

 Mark

	It's normal that the cylinders need reboring after the sort of
	damage that you noticed has occurred. I would carefully check
	the condition of the bores before putting new pistons in - I
	think you may be taking a bit of a gamble!

	- John.

    Luckily the cylinders themselves look fine. The rings were still
    intact, and the pistons move very smoothly in the bores. I think
    had I tried to keep going a bit longer, or the piston hadn't holed,
    it would have been a different matter.

    Perhaps I'm just lucky :-)

  Mark

	Seems like you were lucky - I had a similar problem with a Fiat and
	had to have a rebore and fit four new pistons.

	BTW - have you found out why this happened to your engine - lack of
	coolant would not normally cause a holed piston.

	- John.

    I suspect that this isn't the first time that the engine has been run
    hot, but this was the last straw. The damage is to the edges of the 
    pistons, between 2 and 3. The hole is in the top of number 2 piston.
    I must admit that it does look as though it has hit something, but
    the valves all look OK ... perhaps I'll check more thoroughly :-(

    Just found out that the pistons are going to cost me UkL 50 each !!!
    And they have to be ordered. It's true what they say about France
    being a closed market ...

  Mark

    Very easily :-( :-(

    I borrowed the car, and decided to drive it to Lyon, about 80 miles
    from here.

    When I borrowed the car, I noticed that the water temperature gauge wasn't
    working, but was told that it has been broken for some time.

    After about 20 miles on the Motorway, cruising at about 70 mph, the engine
    started to go slower and slower, and then stopped.

    I suppose it is partly my fault for not checking the water level before
    I started off. I thought it a bit odd that the fan which cools the radiator
    was on when I started the car, but assumed that it was because the car had 
    been used a bit that day ... my car always heats up quite a bit when you 
    switch the engine off and stop the water flowing.

    I suspect that the water level has been low for some time (the car only
    does about 5 miles a day, if that), possibly caused by the thermostat
    being stuck shut ... well it is stuck shut now, so assume it was before.

  Mark

	The last (three or four years ago) Fiesta I drove the fan ran as
	soon as the engine started - i.e. Fords save 50p by not using a 
	thermostat on the baser versions.

	If the holed piston has the appearance of being chiselled through
	with something like a minature ice-pick - that is, the hole has a
	sort of granular appearance - then I would seriously check both the
	ignition timing and mixture once you get it running again. I have
	seen this problem caused by an air leak in the induction system and
	over advanced ignition timing.

	You weren't using un-leaded were you?

	- John.

    I get the impression that it hasn't been serviced for quite some time.
    Part of the loan arranegment was that I would give it a look over and
    see what needed doing ... so, how much closer a look can I give it :-)

    The whole definitly has a granular appearance ... not a 'burn' hole,
    more like a jagged C-shape crack, and the piece has been pushed down
    -wards.

    Note sure about lead-free ... I didn't get as far as the first petrol
    station ;-)

  Mark

    If the bores were damaged, I would recon it. However, they look
    OK ... no lip, no scoring, no bits of ally stck to the sides.
    The big ends also look to be OK ... don't think its worth checking
    the mains.

    I'll let you know how I go on ...

 Mark

Here you are borrow my car...

[Hope he doesn't realise that it hasn't been seviced, checked for oil, water]

Oh look! my car broke down when you were driving it, you must fix it of course.

[It did fail then, well that has saved me a few pennies. Glad someone else was
 driving it at the time]

Or am I being a bit cynical. If the car broke down because of previous misuse
are you really responcible for fixing it?

Simon.

    Perhaps a little synical, but then you don't know the circumstances.
    Shes a friend of mine. The car hasn't been serviced due to lack
    of funds ... there is no way she could afford to get it fixed, and
    being that she was doing me a favour by lending it to me while she
    is on holiday, I feel that it is my responsability.

    Anyway, it's all cleaned up now, ready for the pistons to arrive.
    The gudgeon pins appear to be an interference fit in the little end,
    with no signs of circlips. From memory, to remove the gudgeon pins you 
    submerge the piston in hot water, and then push them out 

	... is this right ???

  Mark

Looks more like your doing a big favour for a good friend...

Keep up the good work, I'm sure you have our blessing.

Simon.

    .... or should I hit it with a big hammer ???

	You should heat the piston and use an extractor, but if you are
	*very* careful, should be able to drive out the pin with a suitable
	sized drift.

	- John.

Never having reconditioned an engine, I probably don't know what I'm talking 
about, but I thought that if you cahnged the piston rings without at least
honing the engine, there was a good chance they'd crack because there must
be a small lip at the top of the bore worn by the previous rings.  When the new
rings hit this, they break. (The old rings will have worn to match the lip.)
I think that stepped rings are available to overcome this problem.  I expect 
someone with experience can confirm or correct me.  It would be a terrible
shame to get this wrong!

Mike.

    This is right. The top ring of the new piston will be stepped. I do
    have to try to take the glaze off the bores though, to make sure that
    the whole lot beds in properly ... a sort of mini running-in period.

  Mark

    Well, it's all back together and working.

    The biggest problem was fitting the pistons. I had to have them
    fitted in the end ... the gudgeon pins have to be pressed out
    to get the old pistons off, and the conrods heated up to allow 
    the new ones to be fitted. Not an easy DIY job ...

  Mark