Conference 7.286::home_work

    1.  THE STAINLESS SINK IN THE KITCHEN IS DULL, HOW CAN I SHINE IT
         UP.  IS THERE A SPECIAL CHEMICAL I CAN USE TO MAKE IT SPARKLE!!!
    Scratching is normal. You can go at it with steel wool or an abrasive
    powder to even out the haze, but it will never sparkle like new.
        
    2.  ON THE SHOWER HEAD THERE IS SOME GREEN MOLD (VERY LITTLE).
        CAN I TAKE THE FIXTURES OFF AND SOAK THEM IN SOME SOLUTION TO
        TAKE THIS OFF?
    Probably mineral deposits. Try soaking in vinegar. New shower heads
    are inexpensive, and a water-saver-type will pay for itself in short
    order.
        
    3.  THE KITCHEN CABINETS ARE STAINED "EARLY AMERICAN".  THE PREVIOUS
        OWNERS DID LEAVE SOME STAIN.  CAN I USE THIS STAIN ( 10 YEARS
        OLD) AND WILL IT MATCH, OR SHOULD I DILUTE IT? 
        I WILL ONLY BE TOUCHING UP SOME SMALL SCRATCHES.
    If there's still liquid in the can, it was well sealed, and only
    needs to be stirred well before using. Dip a terry rag in the stain,
    wipe it over the scratches, and remove excess with a clean cloth.

    5.  THE PRESENT APPLIANCES ARE GOLD, I WANT TO CHANGE THE COLOR
        OF THE STOVE AND DISHWASHER TO ALMOND.  HAS ANYONE EVER HAD
        THEIR APPLIANCES PAINTED?  HOW MUCH DID IT COST? AND 
        HOW DID THEY COME OUT?  ANY REFERRALS?
    The dishwasher probably has a removable panel, with a different
    color on the other side. The manufacturer might be able to provide
    a panel in the desired color. Good luck with the stove.
    
    THE MAD CLEANER
    
    

>    1.  THE STAINLESS SINK IN THE KITCHEN IS DULL, HOW CAN I SHINE IT
>         UP.  IS THERE A SPECIAL CHEMICAL I CAN USE TO MAKE IT SPARKLE!!!
>    Scratching is normal. You can go at it with steel wool or an abrasive
>    powder to even out the haze, but it will never sparkle like new.

If you or the previous owner were into steel wool or abrasives, then 
yes, it will never look like new again.  If the sink seems unscratched 
but dull, then clean it with non-abrasive cleaners, then go at it with 
warm vinegar on a rag.  That will rip the soap scum off it, and make it 
as shiny as it can be.  Rinse with clear water and run a dry towel over 
it to buff it when it dries.
					>>>==>PStJTT

    In general it's not a good idea to use steel wool on stainless steel.
    "Stainless" and "rust-proof" are relative terms, not absolutes.
    Depending on the kind of stainless steel it is, the presence of
    tiny bits of rusting steel (as from a steel wool pad) may trigger
    rusting of the stainless steel.  With a high-quality sink this
    probably won't happen, but with a lower-grade sink it might (I
    had one once).
    A sponge and some kind of cleaning powder (Bon-Ami or Comet or
    whatever) is probably your best bet.  But, as previous replies
    have said, it's never going to look new again.  A thought -
    automobile rubbing compound (DuPont #7, for example) might bring
    back a shine, but I've never tried it.
    

      I just saw a product specifically made to clean and shine SS sinks.
    I don't remember the name, but I saw it at Summerville Lumber.
    
    					Kenny

Toothpaste works fine for cleaning & shining small areas.

allen

oops...  replied in the wrong place.  now if we can just remove the note telling
me (thanks, paul).

If the drain is dirty, just remove it and buy a new one.  They're only about
$5 at any hardware store.

As for the sink itself, one can get an inexpensive 2 holer for around $50.  A
single holer is even less.

Now I'll admit these are on the lower rung of the sinkdom social scale, but I'll
bet most people have sinks in this class.

If you want to move up a rung, you can get fairly nice sinks for around $100 or
so.

The next rung is a bit farther up and to get there you're into the $300 league.

-mark

    Appliances can be painted professionally in any color you choose.
    I don't know any firm off hand, but they come into your home and
    paint the piece right there!  An electric current is connected to
    the appliance which draws every particle of paint that is sprayed
    to the appliance.  So there is no overspray to get on everything.
    I believe the process is "electro-paint process".  Not sure about
    the term but I know the results are quite good.
    
    /jack

    
    
    	You cannot however, paint a stove.  they get too hot
    	and the paint will fade/peel and look like Sh*t.
    
    	This is what I was told when looking into it.  My mother
    	had a fridge painted once and it came out very nice, you
    	couldn't tell t had been painted.

    Who says you can't paint a stove....
    
    I have a wall oven where only the two doors are exposed.  I removed
    those doors and spray painted them myself with a product called
    Appliance Paint.  (about $3.00 per can).  So far so good...no chipping
    or peeling.
    
    I even painted my refrigerator and dishwasher.
    
    Good luck.
    

    The previous owners of my home had a unique solution.  The dishwasher
    they picked up used (read: cheap) was white.  All other appliances
    and woodwork are brown.  So they covered the dishwasher with woodgrain
    contact paper!
    
    sigh... :-) 
    
    Elaine

    Anybody care to recommend a method to clean up some old chains?
    
    I've acquired a length of chain about 25' in length.  It appears
    to be in good condition except for some rust from just lying in
    an old shed for several years.  One suggestion I've already been
    offered is to soak it in kerosene.  In addition to cleaning any
    recommendations on general care would be appreciated.
    
    Thanks    -Stan

    If the chain will get heavy use, it will get cleaned up in the
    process. I towed logs with a chain with three inch links that had 
    some of its links fused together by rust and after a work out the 
    links were freed up.
    
    Otherwise, a  solution is to drag it behind a vehicle for awhile. 
    The friction against the pavement should do something to clean it up.
    
    Another solution is to buy a gallon of muriatic acid and soak it in 
    it for awhile. The acid costs about $4-5/gal and is available at 
    lumber yards. At least at Coldwell's in Berlin.
    
    I used the acid on some old blacksmithing tools that were kept in a 
    chicken coop for years. They had there share of rust and guess what all
    over them. The acid is very caustic and visible vapor actually came
    from the pan I had the tools soaking in. Use with caution, eye
    protection and gloves are recommended. 
    
    Another precaution: the acid won't stop at taking of the rust but will 
    actually etch the metal also. Only with thin metals is this really a 
    problem. But wash the chain off thoroughly when done anyway.

      one more more slightly less dangerous solution is soaking the
    chain in automobile transmission fluid.
      this is an old trick I use on bicycle chains that have spent a
    few winters in the back yard. 
      Also one you have the chain cleaned up its not a bad idea to get
    some silver rustoleum spray paint to protect the chain while in
    storage or during future use.
    
    
                                               JOHN C.
    

That gas coming from the metal in the acid is Hydrogen.
If you use HCl (Muriatic acid) to clean metal, ventilate well

    How about painting it with Navel Jelly? It's made to remove rust,
    I believe. I've used it on the tools I inevitably leave out in the
    rain. Might take a lot of the stuff for a chain that long, though.

    
    
    	I used to race motocross and we would take our chains off and
    simmer them in hot motor oil for about 4 hours. This is standard practice
    about once a month and I am told that the metal is somewhat poris
    and heating causes the metal to expand thereby allowing the oil
    to soak in.
    
    	-Steve-

    Can anyone answer the following question in the original note?
    
    4.  THERE ARE HARDWOOD FLOORS THROUGH-OUT, HOW DO I CARE FOR THEM?
        CLEANING/WAXING PRODUCT SUGGESTIONS?
    
    If so, please respond to note 822.

    With all of the suggestions on removing crayons from walls, I thought
    I would pose another related question.
    
    Yesterday, we had the unfortunate pleasure of having some crayons
    go throught the washer and dryer.  Well, as you might guess, after
    I took the clothes out of the dryer, there were colerful spots all
    over them.
    
    Ar there any suggestions as to how I might remove the remains from
    the clothes?  Or should I simply write off the clothes.
    
    - Mark

As discussed in Note 2100, I 'boxed in' a floor-to-ceiling duct in my kitchen.
We have decided to finish it with corkboard - for posting things on (the stuff
they make bulletin boards out of).   I have seen this in rolls as well as in
panels - often in different colors with different designs on them. Could
anyone recommend a place that has a good selection of corkboard by the roll? 

thanx	/j



PS: any tips on the best stuff to use to glue it to the (inadvertently primed 
and sized) pine?

    I have made cork boards in this house and my last house by:
    
    1.	buying a roll of the cork at the local emporium 
    	HINT - buy enough for a DOUBLE thickness, since pushpins
    	or thumb tacks will not like to go into hard wood in back.
    	single layer is OK for wallboard
    
    2.	put it up by using a staple gun about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in from
    	the edge and staples about every inch or two
    
    3.	putting moulding around the board and painting it
    
    		-Barry-
    

    I've seen the rolled corkboard at Sommerville Lumber on Rt. 9 in
    Westboro.  Not sure what a "good selection" would be though.
    
    Phil

    Just for a note of intrest, I had to redo a wall in my sons room
    and I wanted him to be able to use it as a bullitin board. So I
    installed burlapped covered Homosote (compressed cardboard). It
    is about a 1/2 inch thick and comes in differnt sizes. I was able
    to find it at a local lumber yard in 4x8 ft sheets, it went up easy
    and my son has used it for over a year and it works great.
    
                                                    Don G
    

>                            -< corkbd alternative >-
>
>    Just for a note of intrest, I had to redo a wall in my sons room
>    and I wanted him to be able to use it as a bullitin board. So I
>    installed burlapped covered Homosote (compressed cardboard). It
>    is about a 1/2 inch thick and comes in differnt sizes. I was able
>    to find it at a local lumber yard in 4x8 ft sheets, it went up easy
>    and my son has used it for over a year and it works great.
    

interesting idea - what does it look like (this is for a kitchen)  How 
hard was it to cut?  Where did you get it?

thanx/j

    About 20 years ago I had a wall made from something called
    "building board".  It came in 4x8 sheets and was perfect as 
    a bulletin board.  I can remember going into lumber yards and asking
    for that, and they knew just what it was.
    
    Now, 20 years later, I have know idea what "building board" is.
    But it might have been this burlap covered homosote.  That's what you
    want to use.

    
    
    Sounds like you're gonna need a new box of crayons if you're going
    to write off the clothes.
    
    [Sorry, I resisted it as long as I could.]

      in response to .4, "What it looks like?" the Homosote is a gray
    color and it is covered with clean natual burlap color (tan).
     "How is it to cut" I cut it with a jigsaw using a knife blade.
     "Where can you find it" I live in New Jersey and that happens to
    be where Homosote is made, but the last time i was in Bedford, Mass.
    I did see Homosote in local lumber yard. Since they do cary it they
    may have it with burlap or can order a piece so you can see it.
     Since it is made of compressed cardboard if it did get wet it may
    swell a bit, so it would depend where in the kitchen you put it
    as to how long it will last.
    
                                                   Don G
    

    Ouch...I had a similar experience with some sort of UFO going
    through the wash/dry cycles and marking alot of our clothes with
    red.  Never found out what it was but managed to get it off by
    spot treating all the marks with Lestoil and rolling them all
    up in a sealed plastic bag for a few days before re-washing.
    Since crayons are a wax base, however, you may have to resort
    to a 2-step approach, especially if the wax is evident on the
    clothes...try ironing off the excess (use kraft paper or paper
    towels between the iron and the garment) then spot treating with
    Lestoil and re-washing.
    
    Good luck!
    Evelyn

>    You can buy, or at least you could 10 years ago, Homosote which
>    is covered with a thin layer of Cork. 
    
Couldn't find this but did find:

Homosote - but its grey - unsuitable as finish

Cork-by-the-roll:  One color only - the bulletin board stuff  3' & 4' wide
Cork-by-the-tile:  1' x 1' in 'decorative' styles only.

'decorative' styles & cork-by-the-roll appear to be mutually 
exclusive.

I'm going with the roll	/j

PS:  Slumberville had the best selection of the above

    re: .8
    
    Too bad you couldn't find it. How thick is you cork in a roll? The
    stuff I've seen would be awful thin to use for a bulletin board
    without something behind it, so, you might make your own by glueing
    the cork in a roll onto some Homosote.
    
    Alan

The roll stuff is 1/8" and 1/4" thick.  Am planning to use 2
thicknesses of 1/4" (one problem is that the wall is a bit bowed, so
tiles or homosote would make the job harder) 

Updating this note (with a "why did I ever do that")

As noted in note 2100, I built a box around a new heating duct in the 
kitchen using 3/4" pine, as shown:

----------+------------+--------x------------wall------------------
          |            |  ____  :
          |            | (duct) 8"
          |  cabinet   | `~~~~' :
          |            x- -9" - x<----box
          |            |
          +------------+

I put cork around the box.  As suggested in .1, I bought roll cork, and,
using 2 thicknesses, tacked it up on both sides of the box, trying to
stretch it tight.  Moulding framed all four sides of each panel.  it looked
great.   Except that, over time, the cork has expanded and 'bubbled' away
from the wall. (Maybe because of the heat generated by the duct?)  I'm
planning to rip the cork off, and redo it.  Thus time buying pre-glued
cork-on-homosote.  I could buy the cork and homosote myself, but its 
almost as expensive, and gluing large sections perfectly smooth 
worries me.  However, I can get 3' x 4' cork-on-homosote, and hide the 
single, middle seam with moulding.

if anyone's interested... 3 x 4 cork-on-homosote can be had by many
lumberyards (or Slumberville) for about $27/piece. 

4 x 8 is hard to find and I've heard must-be-ordered prices of 
$67-$95/sheet.  

    My gas grill(aluminum) needs cleaning badly. I've looked at 4 or
    so oven cleaners, but they all say not to use the product on aluminum.
    Has anybody found a cleaner that works well on a aluminum barbeque
    ???

    I have used automotive (engine) cleaners with good results. Check
    your local auto parts store.
    
    

    I'm looking for a house cleaning person or agency that is
    reliable and dependable in the Shrewsbury, MA area.
    
    How do you find and evaluate good cleaners?
    
    I've had at least 3 different people/agencies from the phone
    book, references, or newspapers come to give me a sample
    "cleaning" and they probably did more damage in one day than
    I would cause in 10 years!  For example, they used abrasive
    cleaners on brand new sinks and appliances!!!
    
    I don't have the time to try too many more cleaners and I
    don't think my new house would survive it.
    
    Any suggestions greatly appreciated,
    Ray

    
    P.S.  I didn't see any other notes related to this topic
    so I thought a new note was appropriate.

This note is fine for discussion HOW to go about finding people.

But please put any recommendations for specific firms in note 2027, so future 
noters can find them.

Thanks,
Paul

    Since I am looking for both:
    
    	1.  Info on how to find and evaluate people
    	2.  Specific recommendations
    
    I will monitor both this note and note 2027 for specific firms as
    recommended by the moderator.
    
    Thanks,
    Ray

    
    Have you thought of advertising in the paper?  Another place you
    can advertise is at a local high school or college (usually at the
    counselling office, or a student employment office).  It's an ideal 
    job for many students and "homemakers".  I did that when I was in 
    high school, and some of my friends did it in college.  If *you* 
    supply the proper cleaners and equipment, and discuss the cleaning 
    methods during the interview, you will probably have less problems
    with damage.  A personal interview is imperative for whomever you
    choose.  I wouldn't trust any agency to do the interviewing for
    you.
    
    -tm
      

    re .0	I'm fairly sure that the Southborough office of Merry
    Maids goes out that far, you could call to check - I don't have
    their number handy.  Ask for Karen, say Reg sent you, if you wish.

    	Reg
    

    I have Merry Maids now, but wouldn't recommmend them.  We just haven't
    gotten around to finding someone else yet...  They don't do that
    good of a job, as far as I'm concerned.
    
    My recommendation is to go with an individual person, if possible.
    That way, you can have some kind of rapport with the person, whereas
    with MM, different people come each week, put in their minimal time,
    and get out.
    
    Peter
    

    I agree with .5, it matches my experiences exactly.
    
    The trick seems to be how to find that "right" individual...
    
    
    Ray

    Does anyone know of a method of removing an olive oil stain from
    a soft-leather chair?  The spot is fairly small (dime-size) and
    I am afraid that anything I might try would discolor the surrounding
    area.
    
    Thanks in advance.
     
    

    
    Check in the yellow pages under leather cleaning.  Some professional
    leather cleaners could probably tell you what to do in the interest
    of good public relations.  Otherwise you might do something to make
    it worse.
    
    Phil

This is an emergency: the parenting conference is unreachable so I'm 
asking for a little slack to ask this here. My son just ran a nearly 
full pack of bubblegum through the washer AND THEN THE DRYER.

There are fourteen sticks of carefree sugarless bubblegum stuck to many things.

What might help?

John H.

    Put some ice in a facecloth, hold the cloth ontop of the gum.
    When the gum hardens, remove it... worked for me in a dryer...

    I believe that someone makes a freon spray that will quick-freeze
    gum so that it can be removed from fabric but have not been able
    to find it.  I saw someone using it on a carpet at a roller skating
    rink.  I suggest talking to your neighborhood cleaner...and if you
    find it please let us know.
    
    I have also used the suggestion in the previous reply with some
    success, but it takes a looooooonnnnng time.
    

    Liquid Carbona will dissolve gum from any surface. Get it in grocery
    stores and pharmacies in the home chemical aisles.
    
    Mike

    
    I've tried Carbona, and it's OK, but I would suggest trying to
    freeze and scrape it off first.  One of the problems with Carbona
    is that it can dissolve gum (and other goo), and then the spot will
    spread.
    
    -tm
    

    You can buy freeze spray from places like Radio Shack (used to chill
    suspect parts in electronic circuits that are acting "flaky" to see if
    the problem is caused by overheating).  I don't know what chemical is
    in it, though, so you might want to do the gum-freezing in a
    well-ventilated area, since you have a lot of it to work on (not like
    squirting one little resistor a few times, which is what I use the
    stuff for).

    When one  of  my housemates did this, I tried everything suggested
    here except carbona. Nothing worked, so I took everything to a dry
    cleaners.  Not  too expensive, and the only solution I could find.
    They really did a good job.

--David

    Some machine rooms have cans of magtape-drive cleaner which I believe
    isn't much more than Freon;  if you've any friends among the operators,
    you might arrange to borrow a can.
    
    Dick

    Your local logistics has "canned air" that is freon based.  the
    Field Service Logistics part number 29-15198-00 so you might ask
    is they have any extra "almost empty" cans.
    
    Good luck.

    re.12
    
    I forgot to tell you to turn the can upside down and then spray.
    

    Let's continue the gum-removal tips in 2951, and return this topic to
    the subject matter indicated by its title.  Thanks.
    
    	DCL, moderator

    You probably have solved this problem already, but I just got into
    Notes after an extended absence.  Upholstery manufacturers recommend
    rubbing corn starch into an oily stain as soon as you can.  It lifts
    the stain, then you just vacuum after an hour and repeat if necessary.

    I am having a house built, and the builder is currently installing
    the doors. The doors came shrink wrapped in plastic.
    Unfortunately the contractor removed the plastic and has
    now got cement mortar on the doors which have not been treated.
    The doors now have a mark where the mortar was.
     
    Does anybody have any ideas of how this can be cleaned off ?
    the constructor says it will brush off once the mortar is "very
    dry" but I am not so sure. 
    I have been told sand it off (which is long) but others say
    definitely no sand paper as it polishes the mortar.
     
    can you wash it off? Alcohol and wire wool or what about a chemical
    paint stripper ?
    
    The doors are what in France we call "African Oak" a very light
    colour, and if you put the tint on the mortar it stains almost black.
     
    Any tips gratefully received.
    Jeremy
    Ps Please use generic terms when replying. Trade names
    and nick names will mean little on this side of the pond

    I had a similar situation, but the contractor had dropped his red
    chalk line on the untreated wood. I accepted his answer that you
    could sand it off ... and was I ever sorry.
    
    The color (and presumably so would cement) got into the pores of
    the wood. No amount of sanding, rubbing with steel wool, washing,
    or even vacuuming would take it out.
    
    If I had to do it over again, I'd have told the contractor to replace
    the door. Leaving an expensive wood door unprotected from general
    construction dirt is irresponsible. You didn't buy 'second'
    merchandise,
    so why should it look that way before the house is finished?

    There is a product with a name something like WOOD-CLEAN or CLEAN-WOOD
    etc etc that is good for this.  I have been using it to cleanup spots
    on my doors (bits of sheetrock mud, marks from bumbping them, etc)
    before staining them.  Works great.  Spells like lighter fluid, and
    evaporates very quickly from the surface, leaving no marks.
    
    Sanding is a lose - even if you get rid of the original mark, you
    almost always have just caused a bigger one - if you are going to paint
    that is maybe not so bad, but if you are going to stain, it will stick
    out as bad or worse than the original mark did.
    

    
    			HELPFUL CLEANING HINTS
    
    The following is from the "Plain Talk" column by Earl Proulx in
    the YANKEE magazine, June 1989 edition.  He solves readers'
    problems every month in the YANKEE ranging from how to 
    refinish something, to helpful stain removal ideas, to identifying
    a reader's gadget found in the attic.  You can send questions to
    Earl at: Plain Talk, YANKEE, Dublin, NH  03444.  I hope you 
    HOME_WORK readers find these hints helpful!
    
                                              
    "Since the same questions keep arriving in my mil, I've put the
    answers all together in this column.  I hope that you readers will
    keep this page for reference.  I look forward to seing some new
    and different questions from you."
    
    STAINS IN BOTTLES: Put some fine sand and either alcohol or water
    in them.  Shake the bottle until the stain is gone.
    
    PET MISTAKES ON RUGS:  Make a solution of three tablespoons of 
    white vinegar and a quart of warm water.  Use old toweling to
    sponge the area well.  A little liquid detergent added to the solution
    will also help.
    
    CLOSING UP COTTAGE:  Put bowls of charcoal briquettes in each room
    and closet to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.  Or place shallow
    pans of cider vinegar under beds and in closets.
    
    RUST STAINS ON CONCRETE:  Get some oxalic acid from a drug or paint
    store.  Dissolve about four ounces in a quart of hot water.  Apply
    to stain and let dry.  Sweep up the crystals that remain; repeat
    if necessary.
    
    OIL ON CONCRETE:  Soak the stain with mineral spirits for a half
    hour, then scrub with a brush while adding more mineral spirits.
    Now cover with sawdust or Portland cement to absorb the oil.  If
    there is stain remaining, mix one cup laundry detergent in a gallon
    of cold water; add to it one cup of household bleach.  After the
    concrete is dry from the mineral spirits, apply the solution to
    the stain and as soon as it is gone, rinse off with plenty of water.
    If the stain is mild, scrub on kitty litter with a stiff brush.
    
    STAINED DISHWASHER:  Use Tang, the breakfast drink.  Pour in the
    contents of one jar and run the machine through the full cycle.
    
    ANTS:  Mix a solution of borax, confectioners' sugar, and water.
    Place the solution in plastic lids where you see the ants.  The
    ants will carry the solution back to the nest, and the nest will
    be destroyed.  This solution may make pets and children sick, so
    place out of their way.
    
    FLEAS:  Place a shallow dish with soapy water in it in the middle
    of the room.  Put out a desk lamp so that it shines down only into
    the dish, and have the rest of the room as dark as possible.  The
    fleas will be attracted to the light, jump, and drop into the soapy
    water.  You will need to do this for a week or so, until all the
    fleas are out of that room.
    
    SILVERFISH:  Take a straight-sided small glass and put about a 
    quarter of an inch of flour in the bottom.  Stick a strip of 
    double-stic adhesive tape on the outside of the glass from top
    to bottom.  The bugs will climb up the tape, fall into the glass,
    and be unable to get out.
    
    CANE SEATS:  To clean and tighten, wash the cane work with a sponge
    and hot water; add a little detergent if cleaning is needed.
    Thoroughly soak it top and bottom, then let dry in an airy spot.
    
    

     Am not much at woodworking, so I asked my neighbor, (A FINISH
    CARPENTER / CABINET-MAKER). He suggested, using "WATCO". It is
    made in England, expensive, carried by the "Better lumber-
    yards, as well as the 'Good' hardware stores". (note: quoted).
                                                  Jim

    I am trying to get a consensus about whether it is better to hire a
    "Professional" cleaning company to clean upholstery or if a normal
    person can rent steam cleaning equipment and get the job done.
    
    My off-white couch and loveseat have been thru two moves in a short
    period of time and are now off-gray.  Most of the problem is plain dirt
    that has been rubbed in.  However, the loveseat was stored for six
    months in a very humid basement and as such exhibits a slight odor and
    very slight green tint in a few areas.
    
    Has anyone renting a steam cleaner with an upholstery attachment to do
    this type of job?  If so, what were the results?  I would probably rent
    from Taylor Rental (rents just about everything).  How about cost?  How
    much do you save?
    
    I have used steam cleaners to do carpets.  The results were ok (but not
    great, especially on stains).  How do the pros do it.  Steam cleaning?
    
    My feeling is it will clean but not as well as the pros.  Is this
    justified?
    
    Thanks,
        Jeff
    
    P.S. - Why do they call it steam cleaning?  It's more like hot-water
           cleaning from my rug experiences.

    RE .0
    
    Before you DIY, make sure that off-white furniture isn't Haitian
    cotton.  There are alot of coupon deals around offering cleaning
    a sofa & 2 chairs (or loveseats) for under $30.00, so you might
    find it more convenient to just hire someone.
    
    ep

    If you do hire someone, make sure they'll guarantee their work.  We
    hired Sears to clean our sofa.  The solution they use left a residue
    that looked to be as dirty as what it was supposed to clean up.  They
    came again and did the job over free.  I don't remember it as being
    cheap, but at least it was a reputable "firm."  Consider getting
    referrals.
    
    Michael

    I have had my upholstery and carpets cleaned by a company called
    Chem-Dry.  Instead of steam cleaning as most cleaning companies do
    they use carbonation.  I don't really understand the specifics of
    how it works, but it does a great job.  My off-white couch which
    was starting to look brown is now off white again and all of the
    stains came out of my carpets.
    
    They are not inexpensive, however.  I think it cost over $50 (maybe
    $60 or $70) just to do the couch.
    
    Valerie

    
    Valerie,
    
    What's the address/phone of Chem-Dry.  I have an off white 
    livingroom set, and although it's not very worn, the color 
    is getting me down.
    
    -Therese
    

Surprised that there aren't any notes about wicker furniture
in here. (dir/title=wicker = no notes)

Any suggestions on the best way to clean wicker?  I am the
beneficiary of some free wicker that's got to be 20-30 years
old.  It's in great shape but it's been stored in my in-laws
barn for a little while.  It has a natural finish (ie. not painted).
It's not very dirty but could use some touching up.
Thanks,
John

    You might also want to post this request in
    MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE.  They have a keyword CLEANING and
    BAMBOO_WICKER.  Try either either one of those.
    
    Hit keypad 7 to MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE to your notebook.
    

    Also see 3303, last hint in the base note.

I searched in 1111 and looked at all the keywords and didn't see anything
dealing with leather.

I have some leather seats (they are in a 1924 Studebaker, but hopefully
the question makes sense here) and I need to clean and get them supple 
again.  They are in good shape, no cracks or anything, just dry and dirty.

What should I use for cleaning and treating them again?

The car has been in storage and will be garaged when not being driven
so we don't need to worry too much about rain and the elements too much.

Dave

    There's a nice product called Lexol that puts the oil back into 
    leathers--I've been using in on leather jackets, boots, and so on for
    some time--give it a shot--I tend to find it in leather shops or shoe
    repair places.  You might ask this in the car_buffs notesfile as
    well...
    
    -randy

Umm...  It seems that we're stretching the bounds again here.  What does 
cleaning leather car seats have to do with home repair and maintenance?

Paul
[Moderator]

Leather's leather, right?  The info should be useful for cleaning
a leather couch or something I suppose.

Someone suggested a tack shop which I hadn't thought of.

Dave

Re 4394.3  

>                            -< how about a couch? >-
>
>Leather's leather, right?  The info should be useful for cleaning
>a leather couch or something I suppose.

Thanks for turning the topic in the direction of home furnishing.  This is a
problem which I have been meaning to deal with for some time.

We have a leather suite which has faded and become badly discoloured with the
colour on some cushions or units entirely different to that on others.  We have
been talking about getting it dyed (or whatever you do with leather).  One guy
said he could spray a new colour on the leather.  

Does anyone have any experience with dying (by spray or other method) leather
furniture?  Is it successful?

Shalom
Baruch

I'm pretty sure there's some discussion of leather restoration in
INDEC::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE (KP7 or SELECT to add to your notebook).

    I had a simular problem with a antique Chrysler.  I found that repeated 
    treatments with Armour-All for leather over a two month period brought the
    leather back to good shape. Before that, it was brittle and would break
    or tear very easily.  A friend suggested using mink oil and said it
    should do the trick after repeated application as well.  The idea is to
    keep it saturated enough to let the armour all soak in through out the
    leather.  I didn't start riding, driving the car until after I'd done
    this.     
    
    I ended up spraying and wiping the leather down letting the Armour all
    soak in and dry, then repeating the process twice a day.  Eventually it 
    softened the leather and brought it back to life.  Took forever
    but the results were worth it.  
    
    Skip

    Use saddle soap.  Available at any CVS, shoe store, department store...
    
    I've used it for years on cowboy boots, jackets, and once to restore
    a brittle black leather interior on a Cadillac I owned.  Works great.
    One application does it.  You just need alot of elbow grease.
    
    Armour-All is addictive to whatever you use it on.  Once you've started
    using it you need to use it more and more or the item gets worse.  I
    used to use it back with my earlier cars but found that out.  If you
    need something to clean and condition anything but leather (dash board
    or tires perhaps) try Son-of-a-Gun.  Doesn't have that addictive property.
    
    Steve............

    Steve,  
    
    Thanks for the info on the Armour-All, I wondered why I had to keep
    treating the seats with it more often.  Now I understand.
    
    THe saddle soap, I never tried using it on dried out leather, how well
    does it work and what do you use to work it into the leather with?
    
    Skip

    
      I agree with .7. It's been around for many years and nothing I know
    will beat it. I also agree about the Armour-All.

OK guys,  a question from a townee!

What is saddle soap?   Is it literaly soap which foams and cleans, or is it
some kind of wax/conditioner?  Will it change the colour of whatever it is
applied to or just take off grime?  

Shalom
Baruch  
(who has ridden horses but never had to look after them or riding equipment).

    
    It is a soap to clean and condition leather. I use it for my automobile
    seats and doors (Lt blue) and no color fading ever. I always use the "
    test an obscure spot" method to be sure any product that is new to me 
    doesn't cause problems.
     It doesn't foam unless you use to much water. Use it on a damp rag
    and apply in circular motions. It is available at Spaggs at the old
    store front and at most hardware stores.

    Saddle soap is made of carnauba wax.
    
    /Charlotte

    Well, being a visiting "EQUITATION" noter, I can't resist this one.
    There are many types of saddle soap - made of many things - in many
    different formats - costing varying amounts - doing varying things
    to what it's applied to...  Vague enough?  It's like saying "soap" -
    I could mean dishwasher soap, or a bar of Ivory, or a liquid detergent, etc.
    
    If you go into a hardware type store for saddle soap, you will probably 
    be given a metal tin of a soap that is made mostly of glycerine with
    some preservatives and anti-mildew stuff.  It shouldn't change the
    color of the leather (the water may darken it initially).  There are
    many manufacturers of saddle soap, so pick your favorite...
    
    If you go into a tack shop or grain/animal supplies store you will have
    a lot more choices - saddle soaps that spray on, ones that wipe on,
    ones that just clean, ones that condition, etc.  Read the packaging or
    ask the sales people... Have fun!

    RE: .8
    
    Kinda funny, but until the previous replies I didn't know you could use
    water with the saddle soap!  I 've just been grabbing an old tube sock
    or 2 and wearing it like a mitten, dipping into the saddle soap and
    RUBBING and RUBBING away.  Not a job for the easily fatigued.  Then
    again I do enjoy the benefits of well toned deltoids!  Been doing it
    that way for 15 years now.
    
    Steve

    I've never tried it that way, I was taught to use it on boots, and part
    of the process included dipping it in water, and rubbing it into a
    foam.
    
    Seems like a lot of work just using it straight.  
    
    SKip

    My husband was working on his car this weekend and evidently got axle
    grease on his shoes.  He tracked the grease onto a light colored
    carpet in the kitchen area.  I sprayed the spots with K2R immediately,
    but after two applications, the spots are still evident.
    
    Does anyone know of a product which will remove the axle grease without
    damaging or fading the carpet?  I don't want to clean the whole carpet,
    just the spots.
    
    Thanks in advance.

Have you ever seen one of those DD7 television shows? They use grease
in thier examples. I was going through the ton of Christmas catalogs the
other day and saw it available in a Lillian Carter (??  something Carter)
catelog.

Mickey.

    Before doing this let's see if other noters have additional ideas.
    
    On auto upholstery, I've used the waterless hand cleaners with pretty
    good success.   Have no idea what will happen to carpets or if it
    creates fading.  You might want to try a less visible area first.
    
    Good luck

    
    
     For auto Grease, try Carbona spot remover. It comes in a small bottle
    and is ac=vailable at =mostdrug stores ior at you local supermarket in
    with the cleaning supplies.
    
    
     
    
    

    FWIW, I disposed of my bottle of Carbona during my town's toxic waste
    pickup day. Read the ingredients before you buy.
    
    But it did a very good job...!

    Have you tried Lestoil and a nail brush?  Works on my husband's shirts.
    
    BJ

    
    
    I work on my cars often and I know the BEST stuff I have 
    found to take grease off my hands etc...
    
    Are you ready for this?...Palmolive Dish washing liquid.. 
    the original dark green stuff....The other scented ones aren't as
    strong.
    
    

re .6:

Hey, it must be good -- Madge recommends it.

    I use it, too, with an old tooth brush to scrub around the finger
    nails.  Before I discovered it, I would walk around for two or three
    days with grease stained hands.
    
    John
    

    
    
    
    We have a big stone slab in front of our fireplace.  And it has a big
    patch of stain.  I do not know what kind of stain it is.  It has been
    there since the time we bought the house.  I have tried cleaning with
    soap and water with out any success.
    
    Any ideas how I can remove it?  Or how do I stain the whole slab, so
    that it will look not look patchy?
    
    Thanks
    
    -Geetha

    How about a scotch pad, steel wool, fine sand paper, soft n' scrub
    or basically anything that is a mild abbrasive may remove it. Maybe
    even chemicals such as brush cleaners.
    If it lightens up in that one spot or looks different, then do the whole
    stone so it's uniform.
    
    Dave'
         

Try oxalic acid. But be careful. It's a poison. Does a good job bleaching
wood also.

Bob         

    
     While we're in the ACID family the other to try is Muriatic Acid. If
    the stone absorbed some of the stain (maybe juice) let it sit and wipe.
    But be CAREFUL this stuff is extremly dangerous, and gloves should be
    worn at all times.
    
    

    Thanks.  
    
    -Geetha

Can anyone offer suggestions on cleaning an oven which may at one point 
have been a "continuous clean" type?  Whatever finish was once on the oven
wals has long since gone up in flames.  What remains is rough and dull and
traps every bit of grease and dripping that come near it.

When I use a commercial cleaner it takes off the surface stuff but deposits
cleaner in the surfce deformities so that every time the oven is used it 
smokes and smells.   Some choice, either the thing stinks of grease and 
smokes or it stinks of chemical cleaner and smokes.  Can anyone help??

    That finish you describe "rough and dull and traps every bit of 
    grease and dripping that come near it." is the original finish!
    
    I have the same type of oven and thought the same thing but that's	
    the way it is.  
    
    Both my wife and I hate it!
    
    

    The "continuous cleaning" surface is supposed to burn off most gook
    during use, but you must never ever use any cleaning chemicals on
    it.  It doesn't work all that well, but if it's been damaged by
    oven cleaner, it doesn't work at all.
    
    			Steve

    .16 is right!  I failed to mention that the instruction manual that 
    came with ours said not to use any cleaners on the surface.  My guess
    is that while we read the instructions before attempting to clean the 
    oven, the previous owners did not.  If I remember right, the temp. at 
    which the oven begins self-clean mode is anywhere above 400 degrees.
    
    Maybe you should open the windows, get a fan and crank the oven to 650
    and let it burn off? Sort of "tongue-in-cheek" but that's what I'd try.
    
    	-TB

    I think I'd save up and buy a replacement for it - never saw a
    'continuous-clean' oven that actually cleaned itself.  When my old one
    died (company out of business twenty years before, so I couldn't get
    the parts to fix it, luckily for me!) I got a 'self-cleaning' oven, and
    that actually does work, although you don't want to be in the house
    when it is doing its thing (phew!).  I suppose it uses a fair amount of
    natrual gas to clean itself, but it really does burn off all the crud,
    and if you can stand the smell it makes doing so (or are out at the
    time!), all you have to do when it is done is wipe the ash off with a
    sponge, and it is spotless!  This is a whole lot easier than going the
    oven-cleaner route.
    
    /Charlotte

           Anyone know what to use to clean/polish a small alabaster
           statue?  Cleaining with dishwashing detergent & hot water
           worked well... it just needs something to make it shine now.
           
           Steve

    Try wax.  Not the liquid kind, a paste kind like Butcher's wax.  This
    is typically used on marble sculptures, so I'd guess it would be fine
    for alabaster too.  Careful when you wash alabaster, though, the
    surface will actually dissolve since it's such a soft stone.
                 

    Does anyone know the best way to clean off grease/soot from a vent on a
    painted (glossy) wall?  - Fantastic didn't seem to work.
                                                          
    
    Thanks,

Savogran "Dirtex", an ammoniated TSP powder you mix with water.  Available
at hardware and paint stores.  Wonderful stuff.

			Steve

    You might want to try Soft n' Scrub with bleach. It's alittle bit more
    rough than fantastic but just alittle bit. I use it on my walls (satin
    finish) to get rid of marks.
    
    Also, it's great when you have white grout that has been discolored
    over time. Put some on the counter and spread it over all the grout (a
    good amount - thick film). Wait 10 minutes and scrub just alittle.
    It's great stuff (Liquid silicon is useless when you want to preven
    discoloration).
    		Cindy
    
    			

    There is, amazingly, no topic on how to get chewing gum out of fabric.
    
    Anyone got some home ideas that work? Or even ideas?
    
    thanks,
    Ben
    

   Well, I've heard that you can use ice to freeze the gum, then
   essentially scrape it off with a stiff brush.  I've never tried this,
   though...
   
   When my 2yr old got some really sticky gum stuck to the back of her
   leg (she didn't care for the ice, and I knew she wouldn't like the
   brush anyway!), I found out that acetone (nail polish remover) did a
   commendable job of taking the gum off her leg without taking the skin
   with it.  
   
   BUT... be sure it won't ruin your fabric if you intend to try this...
   acetone will probably dissolve certain synthetic fabrics... :-)
   
   - Tom

    Couple of things to try - if fabric can't get wet for some reason, but
    is fairly mechanically strong, then try dry ice to freeze the gum and
    then either pick or brush off. This worked on bubble gum on my wife's 
    silk jacket.
    
    Alternates for dissolving the chewing gum are eucalyptus/teatree oils. Both
    are less agressive solvents than acetone, but of course can damage some
    fabrics (usually by leaching some of the dye). Linen, cotton, wool,
    polyester blends, for example, don't seem to be affected by the oils. 
    These oils are particularly good for getting things like sticky tape 
    adhesive off.
    
    regards,
    Michael Watts.

    Peanut butter works great......Use the ice to remove the bulk of the 
    gum, then rub the area with peanut butter and wash.  The oil in the 
    peanut butter breaks down the gum.  
    

    
    If you don't want the fabric to get wet via ice cubes, put the
    material in the freezer. Actually, use the freezer method, I've done
    this before and the gum chips right off.

    There is a product named GOOF-OFF that will remove gum from material.
    It also removes latex paint.

    
    RE: Goof off, I think it's called GOO-OFF, wd-40 works too.

<    RE: Goof off, I think it's called GOO-OFF, wd-40 works too.

    GOOF-OFF is correct and I'm another fan of the stuff.  It works GREAT...

Al

    re: getting gum out...
    
    The peanut butter has succeeded! The situation is some gum on pants,
    which then got transferred to a car seat. So the pants are clean, now
    for the car seat.
    
    re: GOOF-OFF
    
    Where can buy this stuff?
    
    thanks!
    Ben
    

    You can buy Goof-Off ("Oops" is another brand of the same stuff) at
    most hardware or paint stores.
    
    				Steve

Here's one for you folks...

	A couple of months ago, my bathroom started to smell strangely.
	Sniffing could not identify the source of the smell so I cleaned
	the bathroom floors, shower, toilet, sink, real well.  Washed the
	curtains too.  The smell still persists.  SO, then I get the SOS
	pads and put on rubber gloves and scrub under the rim of the toilet
	since a scrub brush cannot fit there.  Still smells!  

	The smell is pungent and I thought it smelled like stale urine but
	now I'm beginning to doubt it.  Like I said, I cannot sniff to
	pinpoint the source but when I think back on it, it might have 
	begun around the time I painted my bathroom.  We used exterior
	paint since we were having a problem with peeling and thought that
	might help (if it can stand rain, why not use it in the bathroom?).

	Could this be a paint smell?  How can I eliminate it, short of
	repainting?

	Karen

    
    Could have a leaking seal under the toilet and it's getting
    the wood wet yet not leaking out onto the floor.
    
    Seal around the base and floor with tape and vent the 
    room good. Go back in an hour when your nose is acclamated
    to outside.
    
    Fred

>	The smell is pungent and I thought it smelled like stale urine but
>	now I'm beginning to doubt it.

Might it have a fishy smell to it?  I had a bathroom smell I couldn't pinpoint
(after cleaning the entire place)...  It was a burnt light socket insulation.
Do you have a high wattage light bulb (like 75 or 100w) in low wattage socket
(like 60w)?

Dan

    Re: 892.32
    
    Is the situation (a classic!) in note 1988.13 a possibility?

re: .33

I keep meaning to try your suggestion (about sealing around the base)
but I keep forgetting!  This week!

re: .34

I don't think it has anything to do with the light sockets.  The smell
is there continuously and the lights are seldom on.

re: .35    
>>>    Is the situation (a classic!) in note 1988.13 a possibility?

	Nope!!  No kids yet!  

	Karen

    re: .30
    
    	The WD-40 also got the gum out of our car seat very easily.
    
    Ben
    ---
    Dictated using Dragon Dictate (Voice Recognition)
    

    Old paint on aluminum?
    
    The last person who painted the windows at our house(many years ago)
    left quite a bit of paint on the storm window supports.  I'm not sure
    what they're made of,... some type of metal - they have a rough silver
    color(except for the white paint on them).  The house is ~40years old.
    
    I've tried:
    
    	Paint thinner
    	rubbing alchohol 
	steel wool
    
    W/out much success.... Any other suggestions?

Try a latex paint remover such as Goof-Off or Oops (several other brands are
available).  You can find these at hardware and paint stores.  I have the
identical problem and am not looking forward to the task.  The metal is
aluminum.

				Steve

GOOF-OFF and a toothbrush 

    (brass wire brush works a little faster, but "brightens" the aluminum too
     much for my taste...) 

    
    Back to the gum subject ....
    
    Can I use peanut butter to remove the gum that some toad smeared
    on my car in Demoulas parking lot ??
    
    

Try Avon Skin so Soft, or Tar remover, or ice cube and pick it off??

Cal

    Another thing that works well for tar, gum and the like is
    "waterless hand cleaner". It comes in a can and mechanics
    use it around the shop. Several years ago, our town was 
    doing a bit of road resurfacing and didn't post any warnings.
    My white car was covered with tar. I called the city to 
    complain and they apologized and suggested trying the waterless
    hand cleaner. They said if that didn't work, they would pay
    to have it removed. The 'waterless' worked great.
    
    Jodi-

Be aware that there are two general kinds of waterless cleaners - those
with petroleum distillates and those without.  I find that the former class
works much better at removing oil-related stuff than the latter.  Check the
label.  "Goop" is in the former class.

				Steve

	   
	   A friend of mine has stains on all her dishes from the
	   dish washer water.  It looks like rust, probably they
	   have alot of iron in the water (Boxboro).  Anyhow, she
	   was going to throw them out now that she moved but I'm
	   sure there must be some cleaning product that will get 
	   these stains off.  They will not come off in ordinary
	   dishwashing now.

           Any suggestions?


	   Karen

    Re: .45
    
    Number of products available.....try "Iron Out".
    
    Marc H.

	How about Tang? After reading related notes in this notesfile I used
	half a jar in my rust-staiend dishwasher, and it looked like NEW
	after one cycle. You'll see that many of the "specialized" products
	are just citric acid anyway.

	Roy

    RE: .47
    
    No...they are not citric acid. 
    
    Marc H.

>    No...they are not citric acid. 

	Some are, some "aren't. Iron-Out" doesn't seem to be, but the label
	on a product I saw in the grocery store ("Glisten", or something
	like that) specifically said that it contained citric acid, "just
	like many fruits," or something along those lines.

	Roy

    
    Recently my daughter and I went for a walk in the woods and somehow
    got pine sap all over our pants (apparently from walking through a
    grove of small pine trees).
    
    I'd like to know how to get this stuff off our clothes. I've tried soap and 
    some household detergents - but nothing seems to work.
    
    Does anyone know how to remove pine sap?
    
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    
    John (the sappy guy)

sometimes Isopropyl Alcohol works

Luck

    
    How about trying the freezing bit?  Works with gum.
    
    Lay the pants out straight in the freezer for a couple hours.
    Then try to lift the frozen sap off.
    
    Fred
    

use mineral spirits or turpentine - test on the inside of a cuff or waistband
to insure 'colorfastness' then  spot-soak, scrub, and wash.  This should work
fine..........

    
    Ronson Lighter fluid...
    
    e

    
    WD-40
    
    Bob
    

    OK, those solvents work well for the clothing.  Now, how do I get pine
    sap off of my two-year-old's feet?  I've tried isopropyl alcohol, and
    it works somewhat, but it's hard to hold his feet still while I brush
    the sap off with a soft brush...

    (This is no longer a problem for this year.  Not because he has stopped
     sneaking out barefoot, but because the pine sap is now solid enough
     so that it doesn't stick :-)

Peter -

Did you try baby oil?  It's my favorite way to get just about everything off
of skin. 

Elaine

A product which works well is De-Solv-It, which is available in many
hardware stores.  But you may be just as successful, on skin anyway, with
baby oil.

				Steve

    If the sap has harden...just leave it. It'll wear off.
    
    Marc H.

Lestiol wroks relly well getting paint and grease out of clothes and off stuff.
use a toothbrush to scrub the area.  

Bob

    
    
    	Also, the stuff that auto mechanics use called GOOP works very
    	well. Several other brand names are just as good; available in
    	any auto parts store under 'hand cleaners'. 
    
    	John

    Dito .11
    
    Handcleaner with lanolin.
    
    
    DL comes to mind.
    
    Of course this is for skin not clothes.
    
    
    Don
    
    
    

    
    thanks for all the suggestions!
    
    btw - I also received a e-mail message from someone who claims 
    mayonnaise works good too.
    
    John

    
    I tried Isopropyl Alcohol - and it worked like a charm.
    
    thanks again.
    John

And, by the way, Isopropyl Alcohol is one of the best chemicals I have found to 
remove tree sap - dried or getting there - from my cars' surfaces.

Actually, I think DL and the other handcleaners will work on fabric as well
as skin. They're all water soluble and shouldn't stain. And, that's mostly
what that DiDi-7 stuff is.

-Jack

There are distinct types of waterless hand cleaners.  Some, like Goop,
have petroleum distillates.  Others, like DL, don't.  Some are citrus-based.
They don't all work alike on the same types of "dirt".

				Steve

You all forgot   Skin-So-Soft   by Avon. Works on almost everything.

    For lack of a better note....it's not critical, I'm just curious...
    
    I was using Great Stuff (expanding foam) this weekend, and wasn't wearing
    gloves.  Well, my hands and fingers are black.  I've tried virtually
    everything:  bleach, gas, waterless hand cleaner (both abrasive and
    non), fingernail polish remover, WD-40, paint thinner, etc., etc.
    They're still black.  Any clues/ideas?
     

    
	> Any clues/ideas?
    
    	It doesn't come off for about ten days, but you have no problem
        opening jars.  :-)
    
    

    Acetone will take the stuff off.  If you don't have any around
    I'm told that nail polish remover is mostly acetone.
    

    
    On the cans of some of that stuff I've used in the refrig. racket,
    it plainy stated on the label:  
    
                              WARNING!
    
                          NO KNOWN SOLVENT
    
    "Ethafoam" comes to mind as one of them.
    
    Fred

Re: .52

Keep in mind that there are two varieties of nail polish remover.  The
"oily" kind is the one that contains acetone.

The last can of expanding foam I bought included a cleaning "wipe" packet
that was said to remove the foam from skin.  I never had to use it, thank
goodness.

				Steve

How do you clean doorknobs and exterior light fixtures (the kind that look like
brass)? They're beginning to develop spots.

Vicki Meagher

The lacquer which protects the brass is wearing off.  You can re-polish
them using a brass polish and then re-lacquer (sprays are typically available
in hardware stores or places like "Woodworker's Warehouse".)  Brass left
unprotected will tarnish.

					Steve

>>The lacquer which protects the brass is wearing off.  You can re-polish
>>them using a brass polish and then re-lacquer (sprays are typically available
>>in hardware stores or places like "Woodworker's Warehouse".)  Brass left
>>unprotected will tarnish.

Can you use brash polish and lacquer spray even with things that aren't really
brass (such as a porch light)?

Also, someone told me to use car wax to polish these (pseudo-brass) things. Is
that good advice?

Vicki Meagher

My porch lights have real brass trim, but even if yours are brass-plated, 
the technique should be the same.

Most of what we call "car wax" contains fine abrasives as well as solvent
cleaners - it is these that would clean the brass.  Unfortunately it would
also make the lacquer fail to stick (and the wax wouldn't do an adequate
job of protecting the finish.)  I would stick to a product intended for brass.

			Steve

    Can anyone know of any good cleaners in the Methuen, Mass - Salem N.H
    area. We don't want to deal with Sears..

Wanted - Referral for someone who does cleaning of grandfather clocks.
	  Quality workmanship, reasonable prices. 
   If you know of someone, please post or send mail to MVCAD3::CERRONE
							dtn 237-3165

> Wanted - Referral for someone who does cleaning of grandfather clocks.

    Seeing that your DTN 237 is the Shrewsbury Mass. plant, 

    There's a clock museum not too far from you. It's called the
    Willard house ? down in North Grafton Mass. They might do it or
    would surely know of people that do.

    Charly

    There's an antique clock repair shop on Rt 20 in Wayland

    There's a place on East Street in Carlisle that sells and I believe
    repairs antique clocks. Don't know any more details (it's an
    interesting looking place I hike past now and then).

    As luck would have it I talked with the Willard Clock Museum yesterday
    (John Stevens). I have a Willard grand fathers clock which has been in
    the family for 4 generations which I need to move up from VA. My call
    to the museum was to gain some advice on moving this piece, insurance
    appraisal and restoration/tuning. John pointed me to Herschel Burt who
    lives in Exeter, NH. I don't have his number with me but will post
    later. Apparently Mr. Burt does all the restoration of the pieces at
    the museum. He also does insurance appraisals and brokers clocks also.
    
    Hope this helps.
    
    Ham
    

Notefile: Mortal::New_Hampshire
Note: 2676.3
Author: NOTIME::SACKS "Gerald Sacks ZKO2-3/N30 DTN:381-2085"
Topic: Antique clock repair recommendations?
Title: There's a notesfile for it...
Date: 22-JUN-1993 10:38
Shopping-List: MISFIT::HOROLOGY
Lines: 1

You might try asking in MISFIT::HOROLOGY.

    any ideas what solvent to use to clean the gears on an old grandfather
    clock?
    
    Thanks!

>    any ideas what solvent to use to clean the gears on an old grandfather
>    clock?

If you have an air gun, use that. Normally, you would not need to clean the 
gears, unless some other_than_household_dust is on them.

If you must use some sort of cleaner, use isopropyl alcohol, applied with
q-tips. Put a rag under the gear assembly to catch any drip/run off. 

Whatever you do DO NOT USE WD40.  It will leave a residue that will gum up the 
gears by attracting and holding dust.

Dave (our tallcase clock still keeps perfect time after more than 150 years in 
the family).

    Try Tom Dorward.  He calls his business Wilton Clock Shop, Wilton, NH.
    Number is (603) 654-5384...best time to reach is late afternoon,
    evening.
    
    Tom is very fair....I've known him since 1977.  For example, a guy came
    in with a 100 year old clock that didn't work.  Tom was told to fix it
    whatever the cost.  He took a look, one of the hands was on
    incorrectly.  He charged the guy a dollar.  Tom could have been more
    greedy, afterall most workmanship is $30-50/hr. whether it's 1 minute
    or 59 minutes.
    
    You can tell him, Adriane suggested you call.
    
    Wilton is about an hour's ride from Northboro give or take a few
    minutes.
    
    Good luck
    
    Adriane
                             

I've got a random cleaning question I hope you folks can help me with.  A friend
of mine has a religious picture that is hand painted on a sheet of steel (it's
magnetic).

It is stained.  The stains look like water droplets.

We are wondering what can be used to clean them without hurting the paint.  

She tried to remove a couple of spots with dish soap and warm water, but it 
seems to remove a little of the paint.  You can see it's lighter in the small 
spot she tried cleaning.

I'm stumped.  Any ideas or pointers?

Elaine

Try taking to a museum and talk to the curator.

Might it be that the ligher color is due to cleaning off old layers of crud?

								-- Chuck Newman

I hadn't thought of that.  I'll suggest it to her.

Elaine

    
    I have a fiberglass bath tub, we just re-did the whole bathroom last
    year at this time.  I allways had a ceramic tub and it was very easy to
    clean.  I find the fiberglass tub is horrible to clean, infact I can't
    clean it!
    
    From the 1st week it got stained with drit off my husband (he is a
    stone mason and gets very dirty) :-)  I scrubbed and scrubbed to no
    avail.  I bought EVERY cleaner there is at Walmart and other stores.  I
    even filled the tub up w/bleach and hot water and I let is sit for a
    awhile and then I tried to scrub it again - nothing. I then let the
    bleach sit over night - and nothing.
    
    Now it even has more stains.
    
    What is the secret to getting a fiberglass tub clean and keeping it
    that way?
    
    Louisa (who wants her ceramic tub back)
    
    ps.  the tub is grey

Go to a janitor supply store and get your cleaning chemicals there.  Opinion on:
You're wasting your time & money getting them at Wal-Mart, etc.  The basic
principle is that professional cleaners know what to use to clean things, so get
your supplies at the same place.  Opinion off.

I cleaned a fiberglas tub with an alkaline-based cleaner, which I got at a
plumbing-supply store: Masi Plumbing in Nashua NH (yes, I broke my own rule
above).  I mixed it according to the heavy-duty dilution, sprayed on with a pump
sprayer, let it sit 10 minutes or so, sprayed on more, then scrubbed with a
fairly soft bristle brush.  8 years of soap grime and mineral discoloration came
off beautifully, and the original fiberglas shine was brought back.

You can also get acid-based bathroom cleaners (at the janitor supply store) that
should also work well.  With any professional cleaning chemicals, make sure you
follow the dilution instructions carefully.

I would recommend this book if you want to read up on how to clean and how to do
it quickly: Is There Life After Housework? by Don Aslett.

-Chris

Gel-Gloss, available at hardware and other stores, works very well on fiberglass
tubs.

				Steve

    
    Tub:  Thanks, I'll try the gel-gloss.

re .109:

If you use muriatic acid inside, beware not only are the fumes nasty to you,
but they tend to rust or corrode any metal the fumes reach, so think of things
like lamp fixtures etc. nearby.

> I cleaned a fiberglas tub with an alkaline-based cleaner, which I got at a
> You can also get acid-based bathroom cleaners (at the janitor supply store) that

    What works great for someone may not work for you. It has a lot to
    do with the type of tub you have, the soap that you use, the types
    of dirt and stains that you get and the type of water that you
    have. It'll take some trial and error but keep at it and when you
    find what works for you, stick with it.

    The secret to keeping fiberglass tubs clean, is to get them clean
    and then treat them with a product such Gel-Gloss that seals and
    protects them and makes them easier to keep clean.

    Charly

    
     How about cleaning rust stains on OAK. We had a new door put
    in.Someone left a couple of finish nails on the sidelight threshold.
    Now there's some black stain on the wood. What would be good to get
    that out ? Bleach ? Navel Jelly ? 

You need to find something that takes out iron oxide (rust stains).  I would
start by going to a fabric store and ask what takes rust stains out of cloth.
Cloth is similar in structure to wood.  If no luck there, I would try a 
hardware store for driveway cleaners.

Jim

    Muriatic acid may work.  I think that's what they use to wash bricks
    with that have been stained by hard water.  It cleans up fire places
    pretty well.  Use with caution though.  

I wouldn't suggest muriatic acid.  Its fumes tend to rust any iron it reaches.

Chlorine Bleach also tends to worsen rust.

There are several rust removers intended for things like clothes or driveways,
containing things like oxalic acid or sodium bisulfite.  You may want to try
one of these in a hidden spot or scrap to see if it has any bad effect, then
try it on the stain itself.

    I think, from the original note, that the stain is on
    the actual oak moulding around the side-light window.
    
    You might just try a very light steel wool.  Try not to
    rub the whole way through the exhisting finish on the oak,
    just enough to take off the top layer that has the rust
    mark on it.
    
    "Driveway Cleaner" and "Muratic Acid" !!   :-)
    

>    Muriatic acid may work.  I think that's what they use to wash bricks
>    with that have been stained by hard water.  It cleans up fire places
>    pretty well.  Use with caution though.  

i second the caution.  Muriatic acid is diluted Hydrocloric acid.
it is mean stuff.

iron out should work.   

    
    Thanks all that replied. I'll give the iron out a try, maybe some
    light sanding. It's still unfinished. So see how it goes.
    
    Thx,
    Ed
    

>>try a very light steel wool

Better to not use steel wool, some of the steel will stay behind in
the oak and generate rust stains of its own. Brass wool is made for
this purpose and will not generate rust stains.

 Bruce