Conference 7.286::home_work

    I just bought three deadbolts for my house, schlage type and
    they all work with a single key. I got them at the Locksmith
    on Main Street in Nashua, (next to Dunkin Donuts, sorta).
    They seemed real helpful and knowledgeable.  They are called
    B. & S. Locksmiths.
    
    					Eric
    

    No, I think .0 is looking for just the Cylinders, not a whole new
    lock.
    
    Another question:  Can anybody suggest a good reference book or
    two on Locksmithing??  I've always wanted to learn how to re-key
    or master key a set of locks...
    
    Peter

    if the keys for eack lock is the same key all that needs to be done
    is change the pins. If the keys are different in design there is
    no way to make them the same. This comes from a friend that works
    for Schlage here in Colorado Springs.
    -j
    

    
    
    	I worked in hardware for 7 years, and we use to do this for
    customers.  The pins can indeed be changed, but there are special
    tools made for the job so that when you open the cylinder, the 
    little springs and other pins don't go flying all over the place.
    Unless you plan on changing MANY cylinders you'd be better off
    finding a locksmith or a good 'service oriented' hardware store
    to do the change for you.  It's not hard, and I believe we only
    use to charge a couple of bucks for it.
    
    	Jon

Depending on how heavy duty a lock you have/want, it may be cheaoer to 
just buy 3 new locks at spags!  I'm not sure, but usually isn't there a 
key number of the boxes?  Then all you need to do is find three that 
match.

I once did this with garage door locks.

-mark

    From what I understand, Schlage makes two types of locks, a "C"
    type and someother type, I forget, I have the "C" type. I have two
    deadbolts and one lock in the door knob. All have different keys,
    7xxxx, 2xxxx, and 1xxxx. I want to make them all use key 7xxxx.
    I really want to try this on my own, the worst that can happen is
    I wasted some money on a new cylinder or pin(s). I get a certain
    drive in me when some "professional" tells me that it can't be done,
    unless he does it.
    
    I second the request for a good book on locksmithing, I've always
    been interested in the subject but never have the time to do any
    research on it.

    When I was a freshman engineering student, my roomate and I were
    speculating on how a master key worked.  We each had our own theory
    and settled the matter by taking apart our room lock which happened
    to be a Schlage...my theory was correct.  We collected enough data
    to make a master key for our dorm and managed to get the lock back
    together.

    Since then I've managed to make keys for several locks for which the
    key was missing (getting them opened the first time is a trick!)
    including my BMW motorcycle and the garage on my current home which is,
    guess what, a Schlage!

    All you need to re-key your locks is:
	- a key that will open the lock initially 
	- the right pins for your new key shape
	- some small pliers, tweezers, etc.
	- a steady hand
	- patience

    I called a bunch of places, nobody will sell the pins to me except 
    one, who wants me to by in quantities of 100. Does anyone know where
    I can purchase the pins. I live in Lancaster, MA., so a near by
    place would be best.
    
    Ed

    re:  Note 690.9 by NEXUS::GORTMAKER >, "But, that is here in colorado
    not nazichusetts.:-)"
    
    You may think there's some humor in that remark.  I don't. 

    RE .10 
    	I do.
          
    

    For a book, try "The Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing" by
    C.A. Roper, published by TAB Books.  It's available by mail from
    
    	Lindsay Technical Books
    	P.O. Box 12
    	Bradley, Ill.  60915	
    
    The Lindsay catalog is $1.00, and lists all sorts of books, some of 
    them really STRANGE (would you believe a book on enbalming?).

    Said note deleted. Yes humor was intended sorry it bothered you.
    The refrence was to the off the wall laws,ect you all have to put
    up with. Glad I'm here. 
    If you ever feel the need to take a shot at my home state go for
    it I have a sense of humor and can take it. :^)
    
    Again no offence intended.

    sorry if this answer is already in here, but there is a bunch of
    responses to this note!  Somerville Lumber sells and services Slage
    locks; one of mine is down there right now being re-keyed.  Unless
    you have one that is strange for some reason, they will rekey it
    for around $5.  I say 'around' because I only know their charge
    for rekeying locks you buy there ($2-3).
    

    Concord Lumber sells the complete line of Schlage locks - they had
    some models that weren't available at Moore's in Littleton.  Concord
    Lumber will rekey any Schlage locks that you buy there free of charge.
    
    Marc

    I'm a locksmith, and have changed the pins in SCHLAGE locks to fit
    one key. It's a pain but can be done.  
    
    Most people won't pay the labor to have it done, they go out and
    buy new lock-sets keyed alike.  It's cheeper that way....
    
    Steve
    

    RE .16 
    
    I'm interested in re-keying 3 SCHLAGE double cyl deadbolts that I bought
    to match the key for my other 3 SCHLAGE locksets. 
    
    How do I go about this ? Are the pins coded in some way for size ? Do I
    go down to my local locksmith and buy six each of the pin that matches
    the lock I want to match, or, do I put in a standard size pin in each
    position and start filing ? 
    
    Is this a reasonable DIY idea ? I don't mind spending some late hours
    fumbling with the pins, if that's what it takes. Besides, I have six
    cylinders to do, I ought to get pretty good at it by the third or
    fourth one ... 8-( 
                                
    

    Re .16:                                              
    
>   I'm a locksmith, and have changed the pins in SCHLAGE locks to fit
>   one key. It's a pain but can be done.
    
    I have a project that's "bigger than a breadbox" (replacing/re-keying a
    score of locks at my church) and would like to get set up as an amateur
    locksmith to do so.  I tried to send mail to the two year-old address
    of the author of .16 but failed.  Are there any particularly good
    sources for locksmith's supplies in the Boston area, or should I take
    my chances with the Yellow Pages?
    
>   Most people won't pay the labor to have it done, they go out and
>   buy new lock-sets keyed alike.  It's cheeper that way....
    
    That all depends on how many locks you need to re-key.  I've been
    quoted $5-7 per lock at a few larger hardware/home improvement places. 
    At the same time, I've seen keyed-alike locksets ranging from about $15
    to $30 per lock.  It would seem that you CAN save money by re-keying,
    but don't overlook the general hassle of taking the lock cylinder(s) to
    the store and waiting for them to be worked on.  If you pay a locksmith
    to come to your house, then you're talking BIG bucks!

When I bought my house, I took 5 cylinders to a local locksmith for rekeying.
It took about 15 minutes and I think the charge was $40.  Certainly cheaper than
buying a new set of keyed-alike deadbolt locks!

				Steve

    Why not swap positions of the existing pins and have a key cut
    to match by a locksmith?
    
    -j

    Couple of places you can try:
    
    HPC in, I believe, Chicago, IL is a locksmith supply house; they
    sell pinning kits, key machines, blanks, pick sets, etc.  It's
    been a LONG time since I bought anything, but the name is on my
    pick set; sorry, no address.
    
    A long shot would be Hugo Solomon in Detroit, MI.  They were a
    semi-local (close to Ann Arbor, MI) LARGE locksmith/dealer/I'm
    not 100% sure WHAT else with whom I did business back in my UofM
    college days.
    
    The Boston Yellow Pages might not be a bad bet.
    
    FWIW, a pinning kit probably is what you want.  It will contain
    the "n" different lengths of lower pins, a few different lengths
    of upper pins (drivers), springs, spring retainers, and etc.;
    more complete kits also contain discs for master keying.  As
    there is no single standard for pin lengths & diameters, the kit
    will often only be applicable to a single manufacturer's products
    (maybe even only a subset of their products).
    
    

    I'm in the process of buying a house that has SCHLAGE locks on the 
    doors.  I want to add some deadbolts to the same doors as well as
    add a deadbolt to a windowed-door that's used to go out to a deck
    (French door type).  I looked at some SCHLAGE locks at Somerville
    Lumber Sunday and saw that locks are made for different distances
    from the edge of the door??  I'm not sure on how to figure out 
    what distance lock to buy.  Also, does the thickness of a door have
    impact on what kind of lock to get? Can anyone offer some help?
    As you can tell, I've never done this before and though I'm handy
    with tools, I don't feel like drilling nice big holes into doors
    that will cost me big money to replace in case I drill it wrong!!
    
    -Tony

    There are two common lengths for latch mechanisms; 2-3/8 inches,
    and 2-3/4 inches.  This is the "distance from the edge of the
    door" which you mention; it is called "backset" in the trade.
    
    If you are installing a replacement lockset in an existing door,
    or if you are installing a lockset in a new door which has a
    pre-bored hole for the lockset, you must use a lockset which has
    a backset which matches that of the existing hole.  (The backset
    is measured from the edge of the door to the center of the hole.)
    
    If you have to drill the hole for the lockset, then you can use
    either the 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 backset varities.
    
    The thickness of the door is USUALLY not a concern, unless you
    are dealing with an extremely thick door; then you might need
    to obtain an extension spindle for the latch mechanism.
    
    As far as installation goes, locksets and dead bolts come with
    a "where to drill the holes" template; Schlage has fairly good
    instructions.  You'll need a hole saw of the proper diameter
    to drill the hole in the face of the door, and a spade bit for
    the hole in the side of the door (for the latch mechanism).
    Sommerville PROBABLY rents lock installation kits which have
    the hole saw and spade bit you need.
    
    The best advice is "measure twice before cutting (drilling) once".

    re: .22, .23
    I'd only add that as with most things, it's not all that hard
    to do the second one ;-) after you've done one for practice.  
    If you're feeling particularly anxious, you might try "installing"
    one on a scrap piece of 2x6 or something before drilling your doors.
    
    I think I'd use a Forstner-style bit for the hole that goes in
    from the side of the door, as it cuts more cleanly than a spade
    bit.  Stanley sells sort-of Forstner bits that work pretty well.
    A spade bit will probably work okay though. 
    
    Keep everything perpendicular and in the right place, and you'll
    be fine.  Be sure the hole that goes in from the side of the door
    is centered in the side of the door.  It really isn't that hard to
    do.

    re: 23
    
    These are wood doors and show no signs of pre-bored holes, possibly
    the steel door has this so I'll check that out.
    If I use the exsisting door knob as a guide I should be all set in
    determining the "back-set" then, right?
    
    I was at Home Depot in Nashua and noticed they have "double-paks"
    with a dead-bolt lock and a regular door-knob lock.  I might go that
    root since I'm not into carrying all those keys!  I need to find out
    if they can change the pins on the locks if I can't find enough of the
    same lock-number.  Also how much and how long it will take.  Hate to
    leave the house wide-open while I rip out all the locks to get them
    changed...I'll ask if they rent lock-drilling-jigs while I'm there.
    
    Thanks all.
    
    -TB

    I would like to add a dead-bolt to my outside steel door. Should I just
    approach the job the same way as I would a wooden door?
    
    
    Marc H.

    Yes, except that you'll need a hole cutter that is capable of cutting
    holes in steel for the holes inthe face panels of the door.  Also check
    to ensure that the spot you pick for the dead bold is on the lock block
    of the door.  The hole in the edge of the door goes into wood, so
    that's easy.
    
    Door edge  >| W ! Foam
    		| O ! Insulation
    		| O !
    	_	| D !______
    	^	|	   !   Note that the wood around the outside
    		|	   !   edge of the door is not a uniform width
       12"	| Lock	   !   and is much wider in the area where the
    		| Block	   !   locks are meant to go.  The length of the
    		|	   !   lock block is typically 12".  If you try
    		|	   !   to install it too far above the handle set
    	v	|	   !   you could end up in the foam!  You can
    	_	|   _______!   probably determine the edges of the block
    		|   !	       by sounding, as for studs.

    RE: 690.27
    
     Is there any particular reason that you indicate that dead-bolts should
    be installed above the entry-set ?  I mean, is there a "lock block" 
    below the entry-set on a steel door ?  Are dead-bolts more effective
    located higher up on the door ?

    I hadn't really thought about it, apart from convention usually has
    the dead-lock above the handle.  What the exact distribution of the
    lock block on the door is will probably depend on the maker.  Since
    the handle-set hole is usually predrilled and convention has the
    dead bolt above the handle, my guess would be that there would be more
    wood above than below.
    
    Stuart

    
    I installed two schlage double deadbolts last weekend in metal/foam
    exterior doors where existing locks were already fitted and needed to be
    removed first.
    
    the biggest problem was resizing the holes for the face plates, and
    coping with the damaged wood block as a result of the previous crappy
    installation.
    
    A few tips:
    
    	If you are cutting new holes or oversizing an existing hole,
        cut a wooden template first and clamp it to the door.  This
        will stop the cutter wandering and will hold a few drops of lube
        oil for the cutter.  The trim ring can cope with oversize holes
        ou to abot 1/4".
    
        *Paint* the cut surface or it will rust and streak down the painted
        door.
    
        the previous installation had removed far too much of the foam
        insulation to hold the bolt square and level.  use some of
        that canned foam insulation or wooden blocks to hold the bolt
        square and level.
    
    	If you do not change the existing bolt receiver (i didn't) be
        sure to test the bolt action (with a screwdriver) before assembling
        the lock barrels.
    
        In my doors, the wooden block was only about 4" long and 3/4 inch
        deep.  this was split where the plate of the original lock had been
        screwed too near the edge.  It's impossible to replace this so I
        drilled it out and glued in a hardwood dowel to take the screws.
    
    	A dab of mastic will hold the locks in place while you screw
        in the holding bolts
    
    	DONT tap in the finishing pins until you have again tested the 
        bolt action (crucial!).
    
    
    It took two hours to do two doors.
    
    Regards,
    
    C.
    

    Re: .25
    
    Any locksmith can rekey the cylinders so that they all match.
    
    			Steve

    
      I would like to ask one question. What does installing deadbolts
    do for the house except create a possible death trap for young
    occupants? I would think that anyone wanting into a house bad enough
    would be in through a window in a couple of seconds and all that money
    spent to make a good death trap for the youngsters would be for naught.
    
      I do not think anyone should install anything that prohibits egress
    w/out the simple turn of a doorknob. Most young children know how to do
    this, but might not be able to reach or know how to unbolt a deadbolt
    lock. This could be a disaster in the event of a fire where the adult
    occupants were over come with smoke and the youngsters were trying
    to escape. In a panic they might not think of (or be able to) opening
    a window.
    
     Just something to think about. I don"t have any deadbolts in my house.
    I just let the intruders talk to "Smith & Wesson" or "Winchester".:>)

    re: .32
    I've got deadbolts; I don't use them at night and instead use
    the lock-in-the-doorknob that you just have to turn to open.
    
    There are reasons besides just keeping a burglar out to use
    deadbolts with a key both inside and outside; if a burglar 
    does manage to get in through a window, he's going to have a
    more difficult time a TV, stero, etc. out through a window
    than he is through a door he can open easily from the inside.
    Crawling in through a window that may be 5' off the ground is
    not all that simple either.  It's also hard to get out through
    a window quickly, making the burglar's escape route more risky.
    Sure, a burglar can get into *anything* given enough time; the 
    only thing any lock can do is make it inconvenient enough so he 
    decides to go elsewhere.

    RE: .32
    
    I share your concern for safety...I have 5 children!
    
    I saw a Sears deadbolt that will open from the INSIDE the same way,
    whether or not its lock is activated or not. Nice safety feature.
    I has a large handle that is easy to grasp for youngsters.
    
    Marc H.

re .32:

The term "deadbolt" doesn't mean that you have to use a key from the inside,
it just means that you have to do something (other than just close the door)
to engage the lock.  Deadbolts as such aren't fire hazards.  Deadbolts that
require keys to open them from the inside may be fire hazards.

    
    Also, if the door is glazed, a keyless internal deadbolt is essential.
    I agree that these could pose a risk and should probably be left drawn
    at night.
    
    C.
    
    
     

    .33 hit the nail on the head...make it more time-consuming for the 
    burglar to get whatever he wants out of the house.  A 27" color monitor
    fits awfully tight thru a window...
    
    The 2nd thing is that these double-keyed deadbolts would only go on the
    doors that have windows in them so that if he did break the window he'd
    still need a key to open the door.  Security is a concern but the
    safety issue in regards to children in an emergency situation is fully
    justifiable and well noted.
    

    
    Rep last couple... About leaving them open at night.
    
     Do fires only start at night?
     Have burglars started doing business like the bankers from 9am to
    3pm? :>)
    
     Anyway sorry if I started something. I am interested. I prefer
    a good alarm system and "Smith and Wesson". I love children and
    wouldn't be able to sleep nights just thinking about what could
    happen.

Some insurance companies will give you a discount on your insurance if all
exterior doors have deadbolts.

I understand the issues regarding double cylinders, and agree that there should
be at least one exit which does not require a key to be unlocked from the
inside.  But especially for rear doors in secluded areas, a double-cylinder
bolt for a door where there are windows nearby seems worthwhile.

				Steve

    re: .38
    Well, I don't live in such a high-crime neighborhood that I feel
    as though I have to lock my house while I'm inside during the 
    day.  I lock the deadbolts when nobody is going to be at home.
    
    I'm not trying to argue with your basic premise - deadbolts can
    be a hazard.  I think with reasonably simple procedures they
    don't have to be.

Medeco makes a lock with removable inside knobs.  The knob is actually
connected to a key, but you can only remove the knob when there's a key
in the outside of the lock.  This prevents the knob from accidentally
falling out, or being taken by playful hands.  The idea is that the
knob is normally in place, but when
you go away for vacation, you can remove them.  You can also use your
ordinary key from the inside, but they don't get locked into the lock. 
This seems like a good compromise to me.

I have trouble imagining a youngster who would have the presence of
mind to get to the door (instead of hiding), and the ability to open
the door knob, but not the ability to open the deadbolt (unless it's
mounted out of reach).  But then, when I was a kid, I was always
helping my mother deal with the lock.

The point about not locking them at night is really more general: you
leave them open when someone's at home.  You lock them when no one is
at home.  Most burglaries occur when the house is unoccupied.  With
that policy, deadbolts are never a fire hazard.

   Gary

Another recommendation is to leave the key in the lock (double key type) when
you are home and want to have it locked.

Another option is a combination passage set/dead bolt that is made by 
Weiser Lock called the Weiser-Bolt.

It replaces the ordinary door knob passage-set and functions just like
one. When you turn the lock knob on the inside or use the key on the
outside, the same strike bolt that normally keeps the door closed,
extends an additional inch into the re-enforced latch plate. It now
functions like a dead bolt, it has an extended bolt and the bolt
cannot be pushed back or "jimmied". 

A simple twist of the inside lock knob or the inside door knob will
un-lock the door and return the mechanism to the ordinary passage set
function. 

It's a good comprimise where kids are involved, it reuses the
exsisting holes and is simple to use. 

Charly

    There are also interconnected locksets (Schlage has them, I'm sure
    others do) which use a separate deadbolt but are constructed such that
    turning the inside latch knob also releases the dealbolt; Schlage
    describes this as "panic-proof".  However, this doesn't satisfy
    the needs of those who would consider double cylinders.
    
    				Steve

re .38:

       As I understand it, most domestic B&Es occur during first shift
working hours (9AM to 3PM).  At this time of day, there are less people
around for sure!  After dark, carrying the beforementioned 27" TV monitor
out the back, over the fence and through the bushes would be a real pain!
Also, those performing domestic B&Es do it like a job and would rather work
first shift.  

With no first had experience in performing domestic (or nondomestic) B&Es,
regards, Bill G.

One observation:  In case of a fire, children are not the only one who
get disoriented. It can happen to adults just as easily.

I don't have any locks that require an inside key.

Mickey.

Double-cylinder (ie, inside & outside) deadbolts are illegal in Mass for
precisely the fire-trap reasons that have been discussed.

In NYC, they're illegal unless a key is permanently inserted (e.g. soldered)
into the inside cylinder.  It's a law that's frequently broken.

Thats the purpose (and the issue) with the double cylinder deadbolts.... you
must have a key, regardless of which side of the door you're on.

Bob  

    
    If your house has sliding glass doors, or floor to ceiling casements
    (ours has both) then the double cylinder safety enhancement is moot.
    We have deadbolts for the insurance discount, and full replacement
    value insurance to cover losses.
    
    CdH
    

    Re .47:              -< ... not in Mass, you don't >-

>   Double-cylinder (ie, inside & outside) deadbolts are illegal in Mass
>   for precisely the fire-trap reasons that have been discussed.
    
    Since when?  I've had double-cylinder deadbolts on all my exterior
    doors (with the inside key inserted or in a known nearby location) for
    ten years AT THE SUGGESTION OF THE LOCAL POLICE DEPARTMENT.

>>   Double-cylinder (ie, inside & outside) deadbolts are illegal in Mass
>>   for precisely the fire-trap reasons that have been discussed.
>    
>    Since when?  I've had double-cylinder deadbolts on all my exterior
>    doors (with the inside key inserted or in a known nearby location) for
>    ten years AT THE SUGGESTION OF THE LOCAL POLICE DEPARTMENT.
>

When I bought my house 18 years ago, I installed double-cylinder deadbolts
myself.  When we remodeled 5 (?) years ago, I wanted to have them on the new
doors and was told that they were illegal.  This was from the builder &
inspector.  I would not trust the police to be "up" on the building code.

    Guess you can't trust the fire chief, either. We have key-key
    deadbolts, had the fire chief do an occupany inspection, and he never
    mentioned them.  He did see them, just made no comment.  This is a
    multi-family unit.

    Our group's secretary had an in-law apartment constructed in the
    basement of her Nashua home last year. She was told that all double
    keyed deadbolts in her home had to be removed because they were
    illegal.

    I had double-keyed deadbolts installed in my home (Haverhill, MA) for
    years ago...
    
    In addition to the 2 exterior doors (front and kitchen), I had one
    installed on the (interior) door separating the basement from the rest
    of the house, having a double-hung window on the basement wall to the
    rear of the house.  Again, to make it that much more difficult for a
    burglar to get to the valuable items...
    
    We never use the deadbolts while anyone's inside the house, and only
    use them when we're gone more than 1 day...
    
    John.

I always thought that there was a difference between a "deadbolt" and a
"deadlock".

My personal definitions:

	deadbolt -- not a nightlatch, a bolt that can only be opened
	through a positive action, turning a key or handle, not spring-operated.

	deadlock -- a lock, such as that between two hotel rooms, that
	requires positive actions from both sides to open.

re .57:

	deadbolt -- not a nightlatch, a bolt that can only be opened
	through a positive action, turning a key or handle, not spring-operated.

Shouldn't that be "can only be *locked* through a positive action"?
Actually, shouldn't it be "can be locked only through a positive action"?

    I'm almost embarassed to have looked this one up....
    
    A DEADBOLT is a PART of a latch.  It is usually designed to penetrate
    into the jamb by 1" - 2".  It does not have a tapered face.
    
    A DEADLOCK is a device that is ONLY used for locking purposes.  That
    is, since it does not have a tapered striker, it will not operate
    automatically as the door is shut (hence the name `dead' lock).  It is
    mounted inside the door as a seperate assembly from the latch. 
    However, a MORTISE latch assembly does include a seperately operated
    deadbolt. The tapered striker is what makes it so simple to force these
    locks open.
    
    Deadlocks are often confused with the rectangular devices mounted
    externally on the interior side of the door.  These are RIM LOCKS
    (often called night locks or night latchs). Since they are mounted on
    the outside of the door and jamb, they are considered of much less
    value and, due to that, are not referred to in the trade as
    "deadlocks".  Some have spring operated bolts and obviously would not
    be called deadlocks.
    
    FWIW
    
    Dave

    
    I've looked through this conference for references to old lock hardware
    and have not found anything.  So, I opened this topic.  
    
    I just bought a 100+ year old Victorian in Winchendon, MA and the house
    has beautiful old lock hardware.  The problem is that the idiot that
    lived in the house before me let his kids play with the keys and they
    all were lost.  Now I have to try and find someway to get these locks
    back into working order.  I took a couple apart and found that they
    were manufactured by a M.W. & Co. and were patented in the early 1800's
    (no patent numbers but two patent dates were on the casings.
    
    What I want to know is if anyone out there has heard of this company
    and if so, is there someplace I can get key blanks and other lock
    hardware to rekey them?  I hate to see this beautiful hardware not
    being used.  It's so elegant and would be very functional if I only had
    keys!  The jerk who owned it before put day latches on all the doors
    and they are a real eye-sore.
    
    Please help!
    
    Stu

RE: <<< Note 4832.0 by EBBCLU::CRIPPEN >>>
    
>-< Old Lock Hardware... >-

    
 Best course of action would be to see a locksmith.. These locks are more 
than likely "skeleton" key locks so the locksmith would have to see them to 
be able to re-key them.

    I assume these are the "old" style keys, not pin-tumbler locks.
    Any locksmith ought to be able to come up with suitable key
    blanks for you, and (for a price) make new keys.  If it's the
    old style keys, you can probably file them yourself.  Take the
    lock apart, see where the wards are, and file the notches with
    needle files.  
    Now, the key blanks you get may be functional but not very elegant.
    If you want "nice" key blanks, then that's something else again.
    Such things can be made...for a price.
    
    If they are pin-tumbler locks, a locksmith can make new keys for 
    those too, assuming he can find key blanks to fit.

I ran into this in my new "old" house also.  What the locksmith suggested was 
to install deadbolts on the doors (solid wood) so that I can keep the brass
hardware on the knobs, etc.

For a matter of safety, those old skeleton key locks are very "easy" to pick --
if safety is at all a concern?

This is the closest note to my question - if I am in the wrong place, moderator
please move this note!

The main bathroom door in our house does not close quite right.  We have a door
knob on it with a button to push that acts as a locking mechanism.  You can open
the door by just lightly pushing on it - you don't need to turn the knob at all!
Is this a problem with the knob or the door?  If this is a problem with the
knob, any ideas what can be done to repair it? ( we don't necessarily want to
replace it!).  Thanks for any help!

Chances are good that your doorframe and door are not lined up properly, so
that when the door is closed, the, ah, what do you call that part of
the mechanism, the bolt? is not seated in the hole cut out of the 
doorframe for it.  It may be partially in, or it may be totally off, so that
only the friction of the springbolt (?) is holding the door closed.
So pressing the locking button, which merely prevents the knob
from turning, has no real effect in keeping the door closed. I've noticed
this with a number of bathroom doors, so it may be that the humidity
of normal bathroom use may warp the door enough so that it throws
off this alignment.  Mine is like this also.  The quick fix is to slightly
move the metal plate that the bolt sits in.  Of course this requires 
a bit of chiseling in the door frame, and may not have the most asthetic
appeal.

PeterT

    	Here's a solution that may or maynot be appropriate for your
    situation.  If the door bolt does not protrude far enough into the striker
    plate, then, as re -.1 stated, your door will open even though it's
    locked.   Try taking the handle off the door and remove the bolt.  Then
    add a washer under the bolt mounting plate and reinstall the bolt and 
    handle.  This has the effect of lenghting the bolt and (hopefully)
    solving you problem.

If the bolt doesn't line up with the hole in the strike plate, you may be
able to fix it by putting something between one of the hinges and the
door frame to angle the door up or down slightly as appropriate.  This
will avoid the chiseling mentioned in an earlier reply.  I've used paperboard
(i.e. the stuff they make cereal boxes and kleenex boxes out of).

    
     How hard is it to cut the opening for a deadbolt in a steel door ?
    
     The doors I have have the passage set, and a plate where the deadbolt
    goes into the side of the door, but I need to cut the round opening.
    Home Depot has the bi-metal hole cutter for $20.00. Is this an easy
    job. I do lots of stuff around the house. Just don't want to screw
    up the doors, my wife will kill me.
    
    

    I added a deadbolt to a steel shell door.  It was no problem at all.  I
    used a bi-metal hole saw from Home Depot, drilled a pilot hole in the
    door and went at it with the hole saw.   Two things I did which helped,
    1.  drill a pilot hole halfway thru the door.  Then inserted a wooden dowel 
    in the pilot hole and using a right triangle(try square) placed on the 
    dowel, checked that the hole was straight and level when referenced to the
    door.  When everything looks good, then continue drilling the pilot hole 
    thru the remainder of the door.
    2.  Using the hole saw, cut thru the steel shell and continue halfway
    thru the door from oneside of the door, then cut the remaining halfway
    fromteh other side of the door.  Don't try to drill all the way thru the 
    door from one side or you could mess up the door face.
    
    	regards
    	Bob
    
    
    
	It's slow work cutting thru the steel shell, but it can easily be
    done by the average homeowner.

Note that the steel is relatively soft and thin.  Using a proper hole cutter
will work fine.

					Steve

Yup, I did 3 steel doors on our new house... no harder than drilling the
equivalent holes in a wood door, really. Just make sure you drill relatively
straight through, and even that's not a real big deal because there's plenty
of slop in most lock mechanisms.

    
    Sounds like I have a project for the weekend. THx
    

I just installed one on Saturday. The hardest part is not the big round hole.
It's getting the hole for the bolt in the jamb in the right place. I made a bit
of a mess of it. But it's wood, so before I paint it, I can patch it so it won't
be noticeable. Also digging the holes so that the latchplate and strikelates fit
flush is the most time consuming. The one thing I haven't bought that I really
needed was a wetstone to sharpen my chisels. That would have made the job a heck
of alot easier. 

The big round hole is easy. Just drill until the pilot bit in the hole saw
penetrates the metal on the other side, then drill from the other side. That's a
good idea on wood doors too, it keeps it from splintering. 

One thing to be careful of is to be sure that when you screw in the long screws
for the jamb reinforcer you don't go too far. You could bow the jamb away from
the door. Easy enough to correct if you notice it, just back off a few turns on
the screws. 

Steve B.