Conference 7.286::home_work

    Mine are constructed the same way. You would regret sealing these
    windows. They can provide useful fresh air 3 seasons. It's an easy
    matter to buy or make screens for these windows if you choose. We
    just use our cellar for a laundry room and workshop and find the
    windows important.
    
    
    			herb

    I agree with .1 
    
    your basement would be gasping for air and if its a normal layout
    basement with the windows sealed you'd be raising a excellent crop
    of unwanted fungi.

    We have a finished basement with plastic carpet on the floor.  We
    have found that it is necessary to keep the wimdows closed on summer
    days when the humidity is high because moisture condenses on the
    surface of the carpet.  We do, however, open the windows when the
    air is dry as well as run a de-humidifier.  You can't beat being
    able to open the windows on those too far and in between dry summer
    days.
    
    Marty
    

  A friend of mine is finishing his basement. He'd like to put in full
size windows, however he's gonnna have to go threw the concrete. Does 
anyone have any ideas on how to do this, and could it cause any problems
with the foundation.

 / gerry..

    There was a long discussion on this subject somewhere in here, but
    I'll be damned if I can find it.  "CONCRETE" or "FOUNDATION" in
    the title didn't turn it up and "FOUNDATION" as a keyword wasn't
    associated with it.
    
    Anyone remember?
    
    -joet

    Note 145?
    
    Steve

    I need to replace some basement windows that, much to my dismay,
    seem to be an unusual width (36" wide x 24",16" high).  I'm having
    trouble finding basement (i.e. ~$50 apiece) windows - everyone
    wants to sell me "something that will fit" at ~$150+.  Any suggestions?
    
        
    Also, where in Metro Boston or Southern NH is a good place to go
    where I can actually SEE a wide selection of windows on display? 

                   -< MAKI's makes custom doors >-      

	Try MAKI Home Center in Lunenburg, Ma.
        Phone - (617) 827-5727


	I've recently had to replace an odd size door - went to MAKI's and they 
custom made the door w/jam . Also had them make an aluminum door to go 
with it. Price was reasonable. I can't be sure but I think they make 
custom windows also.
    
    
    Give um a call


				rjr

I have the same kind of windows as .0 - steel casement, set in the concrete
foundation, hinged at bottom, open inward, about 31W x 25H. I want to put
SCREENS ON THE OUTSIDE.  My window guy offered me made-to-size deadlite
screens which I would then mount with "GLAZING TAPE" on the outside.   He
says its permanent enough to hold them on, but you can remove them if you
really want to.  Is anyone familiar with this, or with any other way to mount
screens on these windows?  	/j 


(ps - i'm afraid of drilling screw holes because of possible water leakage).

    RE:.4
     I used GE silicone adhesive to mount my vinyl framed screens to
    the steel frames of my basement windows ...it holds great...I
    know because I have to take them off in the fall in order to get
    coal delivered inside. Just have to score the bead of silicone
    with a knife and strip it...that goop sticks good !

>     I used GE silicone adhesive to mount my vinyl framed screens to
>    the steel frames of my basement windows ...it holds great...I
>    know because I have to take them off in the fall in order to get
>    coal delivered inside. Just have to score the bead of silicone
>    with a knife and strip it...that goop sticks good !


Are you saying you get ALL the caulk off?  Otherwise, I would think 
that the rough edge left on both the window and the screen would 
prevent clean reattachment

/j

    RE:.6
     YEP, most of it just peels off, and what little thats left can
    be scraped of the steel frame with a razor blade.

   My basement has four windows with each one dimensioned 13 1/2 by
   31 1/2.  The steel frame is seated on a concrete foundation with
   pivot at the bottom.  Each window has two pieces of glasses with
   dimension 15 by 12.  I noticed that one window out of four has a
   missing 15 by 12 piece of glass (the previous onwer used a piece
   of plywood.)  I am thinking to buy a piece of 15 by 12 glass and
   use glazing caulk to fix it.  However, I saw from a department
   store that they have 13 1/2 by 31 1/2 basement windows with a
   screen on it for only $6.80 a piece.  I am not sure if the screen
   on the window in the basement is very important.  Is it hard to
   remove the entire steel frame and put on a ready-made window?
   Should I paint the siding of the window foundation first?
   I will appreciate any of your help!

 
                                      Pius

Bonding my screens to my basement windows with glazing tape didn't
work.  The frame around the window is too uneven, and the bottom lip
of the window swings OUT when the window swings in.  MY PLAN:  Get
3/4" x 3/4" x N' pine, and build a frame.  Cupinol the frame, then set
it in the cutout OUTSIDE the window.  Caulk it in (LOTS of caulk). 
Then mount the screen to the frame with glazing tape. 

	think it will work?  Is there an easier way?



(I want a really good seal because we often open the windows at night 
and have flourescent lighting in the basement.  If its a bad seal, I 
might as well not bother as the bug count will be high anyway).

    I pried open three of four basement windows to see if I could get
    some circulation and lower condensation levels in garage and rec
    room.  Bad idea.  This summer has been so humid the place is furry
    with mildew!  So I tried hard to close them (have wedges in the
    frames) and am running dehumidified.  What are the chances of ever
    getting those windows closed??  Steel frames, so it isn't necessarily
    the humidity - when I opened the pull down gismo, they popped open
    like a gunshot!  They are somewhat rusted.  Is is possible to replace
    them?  Who would you call?  I have the feeling this will be low
    on a contractor's list???

    After searching through "windows" and "security" notes, I couldn't
    find what I'm looking for.
    
    I have 3 knee-wall (bathroom sized) windows and 2 basement windows
    (small, steel-framed) that I would like to get security bars for.
    
    Does anyone know if this is a "stock" item that I can order, or
    am I in for custom made iron-work? 
    
    I live in Southern NH and work in Andover if anyone has recommendations
    for either ready-made or custom.
    
    Thanx in advance for any replies.
    
    	Ted

    Do you want the real thing or just the effect?
    
    I was doing some electical work at a nursing home in Roxbury and
    saw bars in a window, I was 6" away and they looked real.  They
    were pieces of 1/2" conduit painted black and placed in holes
    drilled in 2/4's.  They must have been alot cheaper than real iron
    bars.
    
    bjm

    
    Hi - I have three basement windows which are made out of wood and
    now ~10years old. I would like to replace them. Is it possible to
    buy replacements made out of something other than wood, and, how
    do I go about replacing them (just rip em out). By the way, these
    are the "normal" basement type windows which are mounted just below
    the first floor in the foundation, ~24"x10".
    

    RE: .12
    
    I prefer the "real thing".
    
    But that's an interesting alternative.
    
    	Ted

    re: .11
    Here's an idea for your smaller windows.  Get a 3/4" masonary bit
    and drill a hole in the concrete approx.  2" deep on one side
    of the opening, and approx. 1" deep on the other.  Get some 1/2"
    diameter steel bar at your local hardware store, and cut it to
    length so you can just get it in when it's pushed full depth into
    the 2" deep hole.  Fill the holes with hydraulic cement, put the bar
    into the 2" hole then pull it out into the 1" hole on the other
    side.  Tidy up the cement, and let it harden.
    I assume one bar across the smaller windows would be enough.
    You could probably do the same thing on the larger windows, but
    you'd need more bars, and they would definitely not be removable
    if you ever needed to get them out of the way to fix the window
    or something.  But it should be pretty cheap to do.

One other thing you may want to take into consideration is whether or
    not they are legal.  If they are the secondary exit in case of fire,
    they cannot be blocked permanently.
    I believe that this is only a consideration if they are in a bedroom,
    but you may want to check with a building inspector (boy, I hate
    to say that).
    
    Steve

I've just noticed that the sill over my basement windows is sagging:

            | |               | |               | |
            | |               | |               | |       --- floor joists
            | |               | |               | | 
    --------+-+----------_____|_|_______--------+-+------ ___ sill 
    ----------------+----_______________--+--------------     (2x10, I believe)
                    |     sagging sill    |
                    |                     |            --cement-block
                    |   basement window   |              foundation
                    |                     |
                    +---------------------+
                                                                            
I discovered this while trying to close one of the windows -- its frame is now 
bent in the middle, and it won't close anymore. I have put a screw-type jack 
under the floor joist as a temporary measure; would like to fix the problem
before winter comes (or real damage occurs).

A few questions:

1) Is it reasonable to replace a section of the sill? How much of it should 
   be replaced?

2) How can the sill be reinforced, so that the sagging does not happen 
   again?

3) Is this a job for a professional? Having looked at several related
   notes (e.g. 673) I get mixed messages concerning the difficulty/risk
   involved in jacking a house off its foundation.
  
--Bruce Taylor

    You ought to be able to do this yourself - once you figure out the
    solution.  You don't have to jack up the house, just one floor
    joist (at most, three if you go off to either side of the window)
    and that is no big deal.
    The problem is figuring out what to do.  Simply replacing that
    section of sill probably won't do anything for you - it will just
    sag again, the way it did the first time.
    The end of the joist ought to be securely nailed into the 2xwhatever
    that's going across the end of all the floor joists, or be supported
    by a metal joist hanger fastened to it.  
    I think what you can probably do is:
    1. Jack up the sagging joist so it's straight again; actually, go
       a little (1/16"?) above "straight" to allow for settling when
       you take the jack out.
    2. Cut out the sagging section of sill and replace it.  If you want
       to strengthen it a bit, bolt some 1.5"x1.5" angle iron on each
       edge of the replacement sill before installing it, but I'm not
       sure you need to.  The metal joist hanger (step 3) should take
       all the weight.
    3. Get a metal joist hanger, and securely support the end of the
       joist with that, so it's held up by the 2x going across the end
       of the joists.
    4. Take out the jack and hope for the best.

    The reason it is sagging is because the house is settling. The
    contractor that poured the foundation should have made the concrete
    a little shallower over all the basement windows. This dip in the
    concrete would have allowed the sill to settle on either side with
    putting a lot of pressure on top of the window. This problem is
    more prevalent where the top basement windows are close to the sill.

    Steve

    Re: .2  Huh?

    A question regarding basement windows;
    
    Ever see glass block replacement for basement windows? It's been
    the rage for the last few years. My question is, since you can no
    longer open these windows, is there a requirement that you have a
    minimum number of openable windows for ventilation? 
    
    

    
    re .17
    
    Glas block is nice, but bery expensive. Those glass bricks cost
    about $10.00 each (unless you can get them at a salvage yard).
    
    Mike

    But do you see any problem with blocking up ALL the basement windows?
    My sister had this done at her house. No repercussions yet.
    

    
    Where can you get glass block, how is it installed?
    
    I know I can get blocks at somerville lumber at $5.00/piece for
    a 6'x6'.  However they don't carry the necessary mortor.  Also they
    have no instructions for installation, is it different from brick
    in any way?

    Anyone know the NH (Nashua) building code as it pertains to
    the amount of glass window space in basements and cellars
    as a percentage of floor space?  The figure in MA is 2%,
    but I'm having a hard time finding out if NH has anything
    equivalent.  (The Nashua building inspector knows he's
    seen it, but can't remember where, and will investigate.)
    
    If it makes any difference, there is a bulkhead with a metal
    door inside of the bulkhead.

    I don't know the requirement, but I know that we are compliant with
    code (In Nashua), and have a 24x32 basement with a bulkhead and 2 very
    small basement windows.  I'd guess they're about 10-12" x ~24".  If it
    matters, I can measure them and let you know.                  

    Here's the scoop from the building inspector's office in Nashua:
    
    There are no code requirements for ventilation/light in an
    UNFINISHED basement/cellar in New Hampshire.
    
    HOWEVER, if you should decide to finish the basement (like
    put in a rec room), you have to abide by the requirements
    for FINISHED living space.  These are based on the total
    square footage of the finished area.  8% of that total must
    be in window space (but may be made up by mechanical means -
    light fixtures, in other words), and 4% of that total must
    be usable for ventilation (like 1/2 of a window?) (and again
    may be made up by mechanical means).
    
    SO, you might want to take this into account when you have
    a house built, especially if you plan any future basement
    refinishing projects (and are going to pull permits for
    the work).

    I just talked with the guy that cleaned my furnace....  We power vent 
    both FHA-oil burner and gas HW.  He believes that we need to get more
    air into the basement.
    
    His suggestion that we replace part/all of one of the basement 
    windows with a vent with a damper...  
    
    Does anyone know where in the greater Nashua area I could find a 
    replacement window with a vent built in??  The windows are standard
    basement "window well" bottom hinged windows...
    
    thanks!
    jeff
    

    You should look into air to air heat exchangers, they would help
    recover the heat from the air leaving your house. Another solution
    would be outside air intakes tied directly to the burners on the
    furnace. Putting a vent in place of a window would give you a cold
    basement, and a huge heating bill.
    Sandy
    

    I am blue-skying the popular project of putting a finished room in my
    cellar.  It has 3 of the typical 16x32" windows in the foundation.

    A homeowner in town who has been through this tells me that the
    building inspector will consider a room with such windows to be "fancy
    storage space", as they don't meet the 8%-of-floorspace minimum for
    "habitable space".  I guess I can live with this;  I feel very
    uncertain about what it would take in time, money, sweat, and bandages
    to chop holes in the foundation and install windows (and the necessary
    window wells in the ground outside).

    But I had a wonderful (or sleazy?) idea for improving the looks of
    things inside:

    I'm intending to build standard studded walls for this room.  It
    occurred to me that putting an ordinary double-hung window into one (or
    even two) of the walls might help it look more like a "real" room and
    less like a basement (particularly after curtains have been hung).  It
    might be reasonable to have some little space between the wall and the
    foundation, and install some sort of light source in that space;  one
    might even consider some sort of faux scenery painted or hung on the
    foundation.

    So, what's wrong with this idea?

    Dick

    Bob Villa thought it was a great idea, and did it
    in an early episode of TOH. It was the same situation
    as you describe, and after installing window dressings
    it looked OK to me.
    

    Do you mean fake altogether?  Or the top half usable with the 16x32
    window "behind" it?
    
    Steve.......................who would like to see the finished product.

    Re .26:
    
    Dick, not sure what city/town and state you're in, but here's what
    I found out for Nashua, NH about finishing basements.  Not necessarily
    what you asked for, but pertinent none the less.
    
    For "habitable construction", most building codes set requirements
    for light and ventilation equal to some percentage of the total floor
    space.  Here in Nashua the percentages are 8% for lighting and 4% for
    ventilation.  (Note how that ventilation number is one-half the lighting
    number; guess they expect you will be using double-hung windows in most
    cases.)  You are allow to use "artificial" means to achieve those
    requirements; i.e., electrical lighting and artificial ventilation.
    (The desired effect for ventilation is 2 changes of air per hour.)
    
    Finishing a basement equals "habitable construction", and if you want
    to go the "permit route" this can be a stumbling block, since most
    basement windows do NOT meet the requirements.
    
    Well, the half of the basement I am finishing off has NO windows
    (due to "knee walls" around those two sides of the foundation).  I
    wanted to do this job by the "permit route" but I was concerned I
    would also have to install windows for ventilation - BUMMER!
    
    I spoke with our local plans inspector who quoted the requirements;
    I then asked what "mechanical means" I could use for ventilation of
    that area.  He suggested an air-to-air heat exchanger (some holes in
    the wall, but probably not TOO bad) which would probably run more
    than I wanted to spend.
    
    Then inspector then asked what type of heating system I have (forced hot
    air w/central air).  He said if I ran a supply & return from the existing
    ductwork that would be "acceptable" ventilation.  That was GREAT NEWS
    as far as I was concerned; I was already planning to run ductwork for
    winter heating.
    
    SO, you might want to ask your local inspector and see if they might be
    willing to work with you on the issue (assuming you want to make this
    work "up to code" - permit or not).  I started my discussion by telling
    the inspector I wanted to do the job "by the book", and wanted to get
    his official input.  I was pleasantly suprised.
    
    One note; they are frequently concerned about addition of bedrooms to
    basements, and are quite a bit stricter about egress requirements in
    that case - you MUST have a window in the bedroom OR the bedroom must
    have a door to grade (bulkhead).  Since I HAVE a 4-bedroom house they
    accepted my statement that the new area was a recreation room.

Many restaurants and other public places have backlit windows like you 
describe, either with curtains to obscure the view, or, a few, with actual
plastic bushes visible outside the window.  If part of the backlighting could 
be actual daylight, so much the better.

    .29:
    
    Well, now, you're giving me grounds for optimism.  We too have FHA, and
    no intention of bedrooms in the cellar.  (We currently have two
    unoccupied bedrooms;  my desire was a playroom for when we have
    children, and a hobby-shop.)  Guess I'll have to talk with the building
    inspector.
    
    
    .28:
    
    Actually, I haven't gotten far enough to figure out how that would
    work.  It seems sensible, though, to make sure that the top could be
    opened for access to the window-in-the-foundation;  that would also
    admit most of the light that would be entering that outside window.
    But I think there are a number of details that would need to be
    defined.
    
    The aquarium sounds interesting, but surely it would need a heater!
    Wonder if a window box on the outside would be too strange?
    
    Dick

    Any way of stopping the draft?
    
    I have the typical metal frame tilt-in windows with the double paine
    1/8" thick glass/plexi-glass.  I placed a strip of fiberglass
    insulation in each window and covered it with a doubled-over thick
    plastic sheeting duct taped to the inside concrete surrounding the
    inside window metal frame.
    
    It has helped but I'd like to try to do more.  I hear that there are
    storm windows available for the outside.  Any one seen these or  priced
    these?  How difficult are they to install?
    
    Is there something else I could put on the outside or inside to reduce
    the cold draft?  
    
    Thanks, Mark (a.k.a. "Winter Cellar Dweller")

>    It has helped but I'd like to try to do more.  I hear that there are
>    storm windows available for the outside.  Any one seen these or  priced
    these?  How difficult are they to install?

	    I have after factory storms over my cellar windows.  I used
	caulk to mount the storms to the window frames.  It's been a few
	years and the storms are still there and they definately make a
	difference.
	    But... I don't think you can mount them this way with the 
	cold weather.  There might be caulk out there designed for below
	freezing (?) applications.  The storms were less than $15.

					Tim

re: .0

I built my own 'storm' windows for the basement casements. I used old glass from
discarded aluminum storms I scrounged from the dump. I made 2X3 frames to fit into the 
inside of the steel casement frame and attached 2-1/2" clamshell molding to act as a 
stop. There is a strip of foam on the inside face of the molding to present an air dam 
and I have handles on each to make removal a snap...




Here's a crude cross-section of one of the frames...

	
	__---------------+
	|__Molding_______|
	 X FOAM X+-------+
		 |	 |=======Glass======================
		 |	 |
		 | 2X3	 |
		 |	 |
		 +-------+

    Probably other stores have them too but...
    
    These look like aluminum storm windows and come with a screen for 
    summer use.  Probably attach to the basement windows with screws.
    
    A 32" x 14" was $12.00 .
    Other sizes available too.
    
    Next visit when I have time, I'll check them out myself.
    
    -TB

    Thanks for all the input so far.  I like the idea of storms both
    home-made and store bought.  I may try these in the summer.
    
    Since the inside is already blocked up I rec'd some other suggestions.
    Use the thick packing foam and place into the outside opening.  Which
    also made me think of the styrofoam blocks which are used to create
    these window openings when the concrete is poured.  These are probably
    about 8" thick, could be sliced into 4" thick, pushed into the outside
    opening and popped out in the warmer season.
    
    Just need to find a concrete company willing to sell'm to me.  I can;t
    imagine they cost more than a couple of $ each.
    
    Mark

    24" x 96" x2" thick styrofoam sheets are about $5.50 at Home Depot. 
    I'm told, though, that they don't carry an R value because the value
    tends to be too variable from one part of the sheet to another.
    
    That's the white stuff made up of little cells (like coffee cups).
    They also carry this blue stuff that's R10 for 2" thickness;  a 2'x8'
    sheet runs $11.something.
    
    Dick

	    You might consider bubble rap inside the cellar windows.  It 
	would insulate pretty well and bubble rap would let light into the
	cellar.  Problem is mounting it.

					Tim

I did have the outside combination screen and storm window inserts but 
found that they did very little. The just didn't fit tight enough to 
make much of a difference. 

I've have good success in the past with the heat shrink plastic
designed for windows. It's doesn;t have much (if any) of an R value
but cutting the air infiltration was a big help. I put them up in the
fall and cut them out in the spring. 

To really make things weather tight and cozy though, I found some
tilt-in, vinyl frame, thermo pane windows that I had made to fit into
the existing steel frames. These COMPLETELY seal out the drafts and
have an R value that you'd find in any current thermo pane window. 

I had three of these made for the finished family room in the
basement. A bit expensive (about $80 each) but they complete the look
and feel of the finished room and have proven to be well worth the
expense. 

BTW... I found the windows at HQ, I beleive they're called the 
Basement Hopper 2000 or something like that.

Charly

    How about this, make a plywood collar to fit around the window opening
    in the basement. Be sure the concrete is smooth all around. Fasten it
    with some anchor bolts, be sure to put a bead of clauking before
    attaching it. Now use some 1/8" plexiglass and magnetic tape.  cut the
    lengths of tape accurately, gaps = air leaks. Be careful with the tape
    direction to, the tape is magnetized and the two strips need to
    attract. I think all you do is keep the arrow going in the same
    direction??? The beauty of this is, they're quick release whenever
    there's a need to use the window. If the basements finished, some other
    type of wood can be used for the collar. 
    If this isn't clear I'll tray an ASCII drawing. But I hate ASCII graphics
    almost as much as bottling hombrew.
    
    /Jim 

    On the metal frame (on the outside) of my basement windows, I noticed
    quite a bit of rust.  I believe it's due to water...
    
    Question is:  now that it's there already, what can I do to remove it
    		and what can I do to prevent it from happening in the
    		future (sealing?)??? 
    
    Thanks!
    
    							-Sujal-

    There is no way I know of to stop rust, especially once it's started.
    The best you can hope to do is slow it down.
    
    I guess I'd thoroughly wire brush the area, preferably with a wire
    brush in an electric drill or something similar, then put on a
    coat of some kind of rust inhibitor goop - Devcon, for one, makes
    something that's supposed to react with rust and stop its spreading.
    Naval jelly (phosphoric acid) is another product.  After that dries, 
    put on some rust-inhibiting primer (e.g. Rustoleum) and a couple of 
    gloss top coats.

    
        My steel insert basement windows  were rusty eyesores also.  I have
    come up with a procedure that works well, and is proven as I have doe
    it in two houses now.

    Yes, the metal rusts quickly - my one year old home had them rusting
    already.  However, with some effort they can be made to look like new
    indefinitely.  

    The first step is to remove all excess concrete from the
    windows.  This includes all the stuff splashed on the screen and the
    glass.  You will have to use a razor blade on the glass, and a wire
    brush and toothpick on the screens.  This is time consuming but pays
    off in the long run.

    Next is to sand the steel parts down to the metal.  The reason they
    rusted so soon is that they come with only a metal primer on them, and
    it is poor quality at that.  Yes a rotary wire brush on a hand drill
    knocks the thick stuff off quickly, but it will not get down to the
    metal.  For this you have to sand by hand with emory cloth or #150
    sandpaper.  Again, a pain in the butt, but well worth the effort in the
    long run.  After sanding everything down to base metal, wipe it down
    with a tack cloth to remove all debris.

    Now prime all of the bare metal with metal primer.  My feeling is that
    I am never going to do this again, so use good quality stuff.  I use
    Rustoleum auto primer in the spray can.  It covers well, and works into
    every crack that may start rust in the future.  Do not be afraid to
    overspray the edges, because if the edges aren't done, rust can start
    there.  The primer dries fairly quickly.

    Next is the paint.  Here again I use Rustoleum, but use the stuff you
    have to put on with a brush.  The reason you want to do it this way is
    that the paint goes on much thicker than spray, and remember - we are
    never going to do this again!  Again, do not be afraid to slop over the
    edges between the metal and the concrete.  A word of caution -
    Rustoleum tends to be pretty thick out of the can, and if you find it
    not going on smoothly, or sagging, don't be afraid to thin the paint
    with Rustoleum  thinner.  Let dry for 8 hours, sand any runs or sags,
    and put a second coat on.

    My windows leaked a lot of air, so I came up with an idea for storm
    windows that has worked well.  I picked up some Plexiglas at the
    hardware store, cut it to fit the outside metal sill, then attached
    adhesive magnetic tape around the perimeter.  I bought 25' of the
    magnetic tape from Improvements catalog for $9.99 plus shipping (part
    #20966, phone 1-800-642-2112).  They slap right on, and are as tight as
    can be.

    Lastly, I put security bars over the windows from the inside.  You may
    not think of it, but a professional burglar is not going to bother with
    your steel front door with deadbolts if he can just go around the back,
    knock out a 50 cent single pane basement window, unlatch the window and
    slip in.  Therefore, I drilled holes through the already existing top
    holes in the window frame, into the concrete. Use self tapping metal
    screws for these holes. I then bought some angle iron at the hardware store,
     and cut them to the same length as the steel window frame. One end of
    the bar is has a hole drilled in it, the other has a slot that fits
    over the other screw.  This provides a bar that can be pivoted down so
    you can easily remove the window for cleaning or in case of fire.  The
    reason it is installed at the top of the window is that these windows
    pivot inward for removal, resting against a metal portion of the
    sill at the bottom.  This makes it difficult (to say the least) for a 
    burglar to kick in the window.  I primed and painted the bars to match as 
    noted above.

    This is not an easy job.  I would say that I have invested four full
    days on my 3 basement windows.  However, they look great, will not
    rust, have very good security, and are energy efficient.  Believe it or
    not, I also receive complements from people when they see them.  


    Steve (the slightly obsessive handyman)

    Hi,
    
    Wondering if anyone could provide some insight/advise on how to best 
    proceed with replacing basement windows.
    
    I presently have small (15" X 32") old, metal framed basement windows 
    that I'd like to replace with thermo swing-in windows.  The question I 
    have is, what type of work am I in for with regards towards removing the 
    old metal from the cement window openings.  Is there an easy way of 
    removing the metal frame to clear the surface for mounting the new windows 
    and what type sealant should I use around the new window to ensure
    weather-tight seal.
    
    All comments/suggestions appreciated.
    
    
    Scott
    
    
    
                                        

>    have is, what type of work am I in for with regards towards removing the 
>    old metal from the cement window openings.  Is there an easy way of 

    If these are the cast in place metal frames, you can forget about
    removing them unless you plan on doing some major concrete cutting
    and/or demo. If you do this, then you might as well enlarge the
    opening and frame in for a decent size thermo window.

    I did find some thermo pane/ vinyl frame basement windows that I
    was able to custom order to fit inside of the metal frame. You do
    lose some window area but all-in-all they don't look bad at all.

    In order to maximize the size of the window, I ordered the largest
    size that would fit into the metal frame, and even then I had to
    trim off a couple of vinyl flanges to slip the window into the
    frame. I then used a good size bead of Silicone to seal the vinyl
    windows into place. 

    I found the windows at HQ, I think that they were called the
    Basement Hooper 2000 or something like that. They cost about $85
    for the custom size that I ordered which was about 16 x 32. 

    Charly

   117  JACOB::DIMACK         4-APR-1986    31  Basement Windows
   396  MISTAH::CHENEY       17-SEP-1986     2  Cutting concrete for basement windows
  1519  MANTIS::MCGOLDRICK   14-SEP-1987     1  Need help w/odd-size basement windows
  2769  EIKO::TAYLOR         31-OCT-1988     3  sill sags over basement windows

    Thanks a lot Charly and Jeff for the info and the pointers!  At least
    now I know basically what I'm up against with regards to removing the
    present metal framed windows.  I'll be taking a shot this "project"
    this weekend.
    
    
    Thanks Again!
    
    Scott