T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
1156.1 | Go graphite | WALTA::LENEHAN | stick-em | Mon Feb 11 1991 15:58 | 17 |
|
Hi Jim,
Geee funny you should bring up this topic... I just purchased a
Taylor Made Buner Plus 9.5 degree graphite shaft driver last week.
I used the same driver for 3 years, only it had a metal shaft...
I bent the metal shaft last year and started duck hooking everything .
I went out last sunday and played poquoi (sp) Brook and hit the
graphite for the first time. The graphite driver is ~3/4" longer
but to me it didn't feel longer/heavier... it felt very controllable,
and let me swing hard with control. When I connected it went around
20-30 yards further than my steel shafted driver. I also felt more
aware of where the clubhead was during my swing.
Walta
|
1156.2 | | PUTTER::WARFIELD | Gone Golfing | Tue Feb 12 1991 08:43 | 10 |
| Walta,
Gee funny that you should metion you experience with the graphite
Taylor Made driver. I had been playing a steel shafted 10.5 and
bought the graphite 9.5. My drives started going all over the
place. I also didn't like where the flex point was. I ended up
selling the graphite driver & picking up the Titanium version of
the same club which I like much better. To each his own...
Larry
|
1156.3 | Can't play in the rain though... | WALTA::LENEHAN | stick-em | Tue Feb 12 1991 09:35 | 17 |
|
Hi Larry,
Hitting anything other than steel is new to me... and I am
speaking from one day of experience with the graphite shaft,
so I'd be interested to hear more about your experience. Do
you know why the titanium corrected your problem spraying
the driver? I know nothing about titanium/graphite as far
as kickpoints or stiffness etc. What are the differences
between titanium and graphite? Does titanium provide a lower
swingweight?
As long as I don't hook the driver anymore I'd be a happy camper
hitting a shaft made of soap ! ;)
Walta
|
1156.4 | | PUTTER::WARFIELD | Gone Golfing | Tue Feb 12 1991 13:04 | 14 |
| Walta,
The graphite shaft was "stiff" but it felt alot whippier, more like
my "Regular" shafted clubs before I switched to Stiff shafts. The
flex point my graphite shaft felt like it was closer to the club head.
On the Ti shaft it is up near the grip. I think the shaft flex was
the largest cause of my problems.
I wasn't trying to make any absolute statements about graphite. I think
that graphite has more variablity between shafts than steel (Based upon
opinion rather than scientific data.) so it behoves the buyer to test
out clubs to ensure they like them before buying.
Larry
|
1156.5 | I know this shouldn't be here. | GRANPA::RFAGLEY | loose cannon | Tue Feb 12 1991 13:11 | 7 |
| Walta...
Tried to send mail but you are supposedly unknown at node walta.
Send me mail if you want to sell the bent 9.5 burner.
Rick
|
1156.6 | So many shafts! | FLYSQD::MONTVILLE | | Wed Feb 13 1991 08:50 | 15 |
|
During one of my closing rouds last year I had the opportunity to
try the "JUMBO" copies. One of the guys had the graphite shaft
and the other had a Titanium. I had my metal shaft's. I must say
that I am not a long ball hitter...I first tried the graph. shaft
and I said I loved it. I then tried the Tt. shaft and I asked the
guy if I could marry it. To me the the titanium shaft is the way
to go. I added about 25-35 yards in distance and I believe due
to the extra " on the shaft I corrected some minor hooking problems
I had.
Just my humble opinion!
Bob
|
1156.7 | | DPDMAI::VENEZIO | MY other car is a GOLFCART | Fri Feb 15 1991 15:25 | 20 |
| The big difference between graphite/titanium and steel is "torque".
Graphite and titanium give you less twist or torque thus keeping the
clubface as square as you can get it. If your normal swing leaves the
face open or closed, the graphite or titanium shaft will make some
improvements. This generally equates to more distance. i.e. the
shortest distance is the straight line theory.
As far as flex and bend point, you can buy many variations on graphite.
Fewer on titanium. Graphite offers all flexes and bend points. You can
now match a graphite shaft to any steel shaft. Titanium is more
restictive. (Fewer options).
As far as feel, graphite does not offer the response that steel gives
you from the clubhead to your hands. It's more like hitting a fungo bat
in winter. Kinda dead feeling. Graphite will take some getting used to.
If your experimenting, I suggest the glack graphite as opposed to the
gold. The black shafts tend to have more torque than the gold.
Generally the gold equates to Boron/Graphite for the more advanced
player.
|
1156.8 | Graphite = torque ! | ASABET::VARLEY | | Fri Feb 15 1991 16:20 | 10 |
| I disagree. The problem (at least with graphite) has ALWAYS been more
and unpredictable torque. Different configurations of graphite will,
however give you different amounts of torque, and they'll "feel"
different.
Graphite can be varied more than steel in its manufacture, and
companies are constantly changing to find the answer to torque.
IMO, Yonex has found the answer in their 200 series (which has a lot of
boron...).
--Jack
|
1156.9 | TI = 2.4 torque | MKFSA::DONMOYER | | Sat Feb 16 1991 15:03 | 15 |
| IMHO. In reply to .7 graphite shafts have always had a torque problem
esp. in the R,L flex. From some of the specification I read the torque
can be as much as 6 degrees. Although the stiffer flex S,X are better
there is a significant price difference. One club making catalog has
the Aldila HM-55, very low torque 1.8 degrees, for $108.00 just for
the shaft. For the money TI is the way to go. I have also heard that
if someone is considering graphite they should go up one flex strength,
currently R goto S. This may explain the earlier noters problem with
graphite. Another plug for TI is that this year the have low kick
point version the orginal version was high kick.
Waiting for warm weather...
Dave
|
1156.10 | | DPDMAI::VENEZIO | MY other car is a GOLFCART | Mon Feb 18 1991 12:41 | 17 |
| Keep in mind one thing about torque:
These numbers are the ADVERTISED torque measurements. Jack, I agree
there are many different ways to manufacture graphite shafts but things
have greatly improved from the late '70s variety.
When in doubt, play what feels best and disregard the numbers except
those going on the scorecard.
Re: .9
The graphite shafts today have improved from earlier versions to the
point where you can stay with the same flex as steel. Even in the
whippier flexes. I do not recommend going to a stiffer flex.
Ken
|
1156.11 | TORQUE YOU TOO.. | NEWPRT::JOHNSON_DO | | Mon Feb 18 1991 13:17 | 20 |
| TWO CENTS FROM THE WEST COAST (SORRY ABOUT THE ALL CAPS)
GRAPHITE DOES HAVE A TORQUE ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. IT WILL
ADD DISTANCE, BUT NO GUARANTEE OF ITS DIRECTION. I HAVE FOUND THAT
WHILE THE ADVERTISING SAYS "MORE DISTANCE, LESS EFFORT" THE GRAPHITE
CLUBS REQUIRE A CHANGE IN SWING. NOT TO SLOWER, BUT FASTER WITH MORE
CONTROL. HARD TO VISUALIZE, BUT SUFFICE TO SAY THAT BY SWINGING THE
CLUB YOU WILL GET THE KICK IT IS DESIGNED TO GIVE, YOUR HANDS NEED TO
BE FASTER TO COUNTER THE TORQUE. WHAT RESULTS IS GREATER CLUB HEAD
SPEED THROUGH THE HITTING ZONE.
HAVE A TAYLOR 9.5 WITH THE GOLD BORON SHAFT AND HAVE BEEN ON THE VERGE
OF DIVORCE WITH THE CLUB SINCE I GOT IT. FUN TO HIT AND REWARDING TO
HIT WELL, BUT BOY CAN IT BE UGLY. WOULD NOT RECOMMEND GRAPHITE FOR
IRONS BECAUSE OF THE VARIATION IN PERFORMANCE. BECAUSE OF THE SWING
MECHANICS DESCRIBED ABOVE, YOU CAN GET 20+YARDS VARIATION IN WHAT FEELS
LIKE THE SAME SWING. FRUSTRATING AND DEVASTATING IF YOU ARE MISSING
GREENS.
SO CAL DANDY
|
1156.12 | got me wondering | GRANPA::RFAGLEY | loose cannon | Mon Feb 18 1991 14:39 | 19 |
| I'm really suprised by the opinions expressed concerning graphite.
The intent with graphite is to reduce overall club weight allowing
the golfer to generate more clubhead speed. The more expensive the
shaft the less torque you have. I don't have torque ratings for
steel shafts at my disposal here in the office. I thought once the
ratings got into the 3.5 range, you were getting less torque than
steel.
I'm not sure how this fits, but I know that low torque (less than 3.0)
rated graphite shafts are not recommended for high handicappers.
My personal experiences with graphite are positive. I definately feel
any player can increase his distances. I don't detect a loss in feel,
it's just a different feel!
Rick
is desireable according to the club pro's in my area.
|
1156.13 | less weight - more distance... | CVG::PKELLEY | | Tue Feb 19 1991 11:14 | 68 |
|
Here is some info on shafts. You can draw your own conclusions.
But, I have to say that graphite got a bad wrap in years gone
by about being to flexible etc., they have come a LONG way. It
is unfortuneate that some people still think that they have to
go up a flex to get the same stiffness when going from steel to
graphite (what you need to do is just get a good quality graphite
shaft - that is if you generate a lot of clubhead speed). For
easy swinging seniors and ladies the graphite shaft with more
torque is just fine and usually helpful.
BTW, the modulus rating of graphite shafts is a measurement of its
ability to resist stretching (High Modulus - HM40 - HM55)...
Shaft | Weight | Torque | Flex point | Material
----------------------------------------------------------
ALDILA HM-55 | 99 | 1.8 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-40 | 95 | 2.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-40 LF | 85 | 2.8 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-30 | 79 | 3.6 | LOW | GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
ALDILA HM-20 | 70 | 6.0 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
GLT | 84 | 3.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
LOW TORQUE | 77 | 5.0 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
-------------------------------------------------------
ALLOY 2000 BLACK| 111 | 2.4 | MID-HIGH | METAL COMPOSITION
ALLOY 2000 PLAT | 113 | 2.6 | MID | METAL COMPOSITION
-------------------------------------------------------------------
TRUE TEMPER
BLACK GOLD TOUR | 100 | 2.5 | HIGH | BORON GRAPHITE
BLACK GOLD | 85.5 | 3.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
MODULUS | 87 | 4.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
GOLD PLUS | 93.5 | 3.0 | MID | LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
DYNAMIC GOLD | 124 | 2.6 | HIGH | STEEL
DYNAMIC | 124 | 2.6 | HIGH | STEEL
TT LITE | 113 | 3.0 | MID | LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
JET STEP | 124 | 2.9 | LOW | STEEL
-------------------------------------------------------------------
KUNAN
AUTOCLAVE 50 | 103 | 1.5 | MID | GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
AUTOCLAVE 40 | 96 | 2.5 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
AUTOCLAVE 30 | 92 | 3.5 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
1400 TFB WOOD | 85 | 4.5 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
--------------------------------------------------------------------
SANDVIK
A/R LOW FLEX | 100.5 | 2.4 | LOW | TITANIUM
S/R LOW FLEX | 105.5 | 2.5 | LOW | TITANIUM
MFW STANDARD | 100 | 2.5 | MID | TITANIUM
The weights above are in grams and the chart is for wood shafts only
(iron shafts weights and torque vary from the above)...
You will see that the torque for steel shafts is quite low and that
if the manufacturers try to keep the weight of the boron graphite
shafts down the torque rating goes up (they have to add materials
to resist torque adding to the weight)...
BTW, what a great time I had at the PGA show last month in Orlando.
The number of Vendors with their products, WOW! All those you
can imagine and more! Got a chance to see some of the PROs and
got autographed pictures of them. Among them were, Payne Stewart,
Al Geiberger, Byron Nelson, Ben Crenshaw, Greg Norman,( but
unfortunately, I didn't attend the day he was there, but my husband
did and he was kind enough to stand in line to get his autographed
picture).
P.
|
1156.14 | Golf Illustrated says... | GLDOA::KATZ | Follow your conscience | Thu Feb 21 1991 12:52 | 7 |
| In the March issure of GOlf Illustrated metal versus graphite
shafts are discussed. The verdict is that unless you have
arthritis or bad joints you don't need graphite shafts, metal
will suffice.
-Jim-
|
1156.15 | What is the HM-70 | MAIL::SCHULZ | | Wed Jun 19 1991 16:06 | 8 |
| Does anyone know the specs on the HM-70 that is in the J driver?
Does it compare to the HM-40 that most Professionals use?
Is that shaft superior to the rest in torque and weight
characteristics?
Questioning!
|
1156.16 | What about titanium? | MAIL::SCHULZ | | Mon Jun 24 1991 15:22 | 8 |
| Are titanium shafts stiffer than graphite or steel shafts.
Specifically, if I use a stiff shaft now, do I need to change up or
down when using a TI shaft?
Anyone have experience with these shafts? What are the advantages and
how do they compare to graphite?
Tim
|
1156.17 | | PUTTER::WARFIELD | Gone Golfing | Mon Jun 24 1991 17:11 | 10 |
| > Are titanium shafts stiffer than graphite or steel shafts.
> Specifically, if I use a stiff shaft now, do I need to change up or
> down when using a TI shaft?
I don't know the specific answer to your stiffness question, but you
you will probably stay the same as a steel shaft. I've played steel,
graphite, & TI all in a stiff shaft. Steel & TI seem about the same.
The graphite shaft seemed more like a regular flex steel shaft.
Larry
|
1156.18 | tTo TI or not to TI | MAIL::SCHULZ | | Mon Jun 24 1991 18:11 | 7 |
| Thanks Larry!
I was wondering. How would you rate the TI shaft? Did it go farther
and straighter than a Dynamic like shaft? Would you pay the price for
one?
Tim
|
1156.19 | What about irons?? | CUJO::CRANE | Randy Crane DTN 553-3313 | Wed Jun 26 1991 13:47 | 9 |
| Seems this note is primarily discussing woods, but I have the Daiwa
Exceller (sp?) in a driver and love it. Well, now I have a chance to
buy a used set of the matching irons for a great price and wonder if
anyone has any experience with graphite irons. I am a long hitter with
club head speed between 95-100+.
Thanks
Randy
|
1156.20 | I didn't care for them | SCAACT::ONAKA | Born to Golf | Thu Jun 27 1991 15:33 | 14 |
| Re: .19
I have 6 graphite shafted drivers and currently uses daiwa Exceller
wide-body driver and loves it. I also use Mizuno black turbo II 3-wood.
Now, I had chance to try several sets of irons about a year ago and
they were: TA 845 (I currently use), Hogan edge, Ping, Mizuno graphite
irons and Yamaha secrets. And When I used the graphite-shafted clubs,
it just didn't feel 'right' probably because I've always had steel
shafted irons. Toward the end of the round I started to hit little longer
but couldn't finesse the shots like I can with steel and I didn't get
additional 15 yards like the ad said for Yamaha irons. It may work
for you but I strongly suggest you play with it (if you can) on the
course before you invest in them.
|
1156.21 | Please, no wise comments about where ti hit the ball...
| DNEAST::STEVENS_JIM | | Fri Jun 28 1991 13:23 | 10 |
| I recently had a guy make me a clone of the J-rDriver with a
graphite shaft. He used a good shaft (can't recall the name) with
a stiff flex.
I apparently hit a ball with the hozel (sp?) and the shaft
splintered where the shaft goes into the hozel...
Has anyone else had this happen ??
Jim
|
1156.22 | Free repair due you | EPAVAX::OBRIEN | Certifiable golfer | Fri Jun 28 1991 13:49 | 13 |
| Jim,
Hitting in the hosel will not splinter a graphite shaft. This
failure mode is most often cause by not preparing the head properly
before shafing. I use a 22.5 degree ream to take burrs off the hosel
before putting the shaft in. There is usually a burr at the top of the
hosel due to the casting process. I would suggest that you take the
club back to the club maker, have him ream the hosel and replace the
shaft at no cost to you. (That's what I would do for one of my
customers)
KO
|
1156.23 | | DNEAST::STEVENS_JIM | | Fri Jun 28 1991 16:32 | 13 |
| KO
That's what I thought. The guy, who has made many clubs, said the
supplier told him that. I asked him if reamed it before putting
it together....He said he did.....
He sent the whole club back to the supplier. I will pass on
your comments....
Thanks...
Jim
|
1156.24 | | NEWPRT::JOHNSON_DO | | Mon Jul 01 1991 16:28 | 15 |
| re:19 What about irons?
Verdict is still out on the irons. It is my understanding from reading
some articles by shaft mfg. that they do not feel they have perfected
the shaft technology enough to give the feel and performance of steel.
The extra benefit of a long drive is one thing but the ability to
launch a seven iron 180 when you wanted it to go 150 is what has led
most golfers to avoid graphite shafts in irons. This from an executive
at Aldila.
A big hitter with high club head speed needs to be real careful and get
the clubs made for him/her. The torque and flex are both accentuated
in irons because of the weight of the head.
SCD
|
1156.25 | Update of Shaft Spec.s / Experiance | CGOOA::DURNIN | | Wed Nov 27 1991 16:19 | 86 |
| [B
Hi, I hope that we can continue to add to this chart as it is very
usefull and there are a myriad of shafts out there. I just purchased
my first graphite shaft as my driver got bent in shipment. It is a
firestick version of the HM-40 made by Graphalloy (I' check the name).
I'll keep you posted on the results. I am a six handicapper
(used to be a 4 but children have come along).
FYI... I tried a comparison test 2 years ago on graphite vs. steel with
my driver and a test driver of comparable specs and there was NO
appreciable difference in yardage distance achieved. As well,
at a different time about 2 years ago I did a steel vs TI test.
Again, No appreciable difference.
Both test were 10 balls with each driver, 3 at a time and then switch the club
and hit 3 with the other (in case I got tired). I then paced the shots.
It was done on a golf course in the early evening when no one was around.
The balls used were comparable quality balls mostly solid.
The shafts have improved since then and I'll let you know my personal
results. I am positive based on what I've seen with competitors and
other players and as well the lightness of the shaft which will change the
swingweight initially from D4 to D0 making the club overall lighter.
I had a lightweight steel shaft before (Appollo Spectre).
I'm adding some specs here as I looked at the Kunan's (rough spec's from
memory I will clarify and confirm them later) and the Graphalloy.
JD in Canada
BTW, the modulus rating of graphite shafts is a measurement of its
ability to resist stretching (High Modulus - HM40 - HM55)...
Shaft | Weight | Torque | Flex point | Material
----------------------------------------------------------
ALDILA HM-55 | 99 | 1.8 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-40 | 95 | 2.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-40 LF | 85 | 2.8 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
ALDILA HM-30 | 79 | 3.6 | LOW | GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
ALDILA HM-20 | 70 | 6.0 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
GLT | 84 | 3.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
LOW TORQUE | 77 | 5.0 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
-------------------------------------------------------
ALLOY 2000 BLACK| 111 | 2.4 | MID-HIGH | METAL COMPOSITION
ALLOY 2000 PLAT | 113 | 2.6 | MID | METAL COMPOSITION
-------------------------------------------------------------------
TRUE TEMPER
BLACK GOLD TOUR | 100 | 2.5 | HIGH | BORON GRAPHITE
BLACK GOLD | 85.5 | 3.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
MODULUS | 87 | 4.0 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
GOLD PLUS | 93.5 | 3.0 | MID | LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
DYNAMIC GOLD | 124 | 2.6 | HIGH | STEEL
DYNAMIC | 124 | 2.6 | HIGH | STEEL
TT LITE | 113 | 3.0 | MID | LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
JET STEP | 124 | 2.9 | LOW | STEEL
-------------------------------------------------------------------
KUNAN
AUTOCLAVE 50 | 103 | 1.5 | MID | GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
AUTOCLAVE 40 | 96 | 2.5 | MID | BORON GRAPHITE
AUTOCLAVE 30 | 92 | 3.5 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
1400 TFB WOOD | 85 | 4.5 | LOW | BORON GRAPHITE
K2 ! ! 2.0 ! High !
K3 ! ! 3.0 ! MID !
K4 ! ! 4.0 ! LOW !
--------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAPHALLOY
MR-29 ! 97 ! 2.0 ! MID ! BORON GRAPHITE
(HM-40 CLONE WT IS MEASURED)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
SANDVIK
A/R LOW FLEX | 100.5 | 2.4 | LOW | TITANIUM
S/R LOW FLEX | 105.5 | 2.5 | LOW | TITANIUM
MFW STANDARD | 100 | 2.5 | MID | TITANIUM
The weights above are in grams and the chart is for wood clubs only
(iron shafts weights and torque vary from the above)...
You will see that the torque for steel shafts is quite low and that
if the manufacturers try to keep the weight of the boron graphite
shafts down the torque rating goes up (they have to add materials
to resist torque adding to the weight)...
|
1156.26 | | MEIS::MCNULTY | | Fri Dec 04 1992 12:00 | 10 |
| Would anyone know an equivalent graphite shaft to a True Temper R400
or Apex #3 steel shafts ?
In the Aldila line, does higher number relate to stiffer flex ? Thus,
the HM-30 or HM-35 might be close to above regular shafts ?
Thanks ...
-gerry
|
1156.27 | IMHO | GRANPA::RFAGLEY | things that make you go hmmmm... | Fri Dec 04 1992 13:22 | 20 |
| Let me give you some facts that might help. Steel shafts carry a
torque factor between 1.5 degrees and 2.0 degrees. The R400 is a
strong regular flex, weak stiff flex shaft. The difference between
the R400 and n S100/S200 is probably kick point. The R400 will launch
the ball at a higher trajectory than the S100/S200.
Look for a graphite shaft with 2.0 or lower torque rating. You will
also want a medium firm tip with a mid to low kickpoint. The flex you are
looking for will be on the border between graphite regular and firm. I
would probably go to a firm model with a low kickpoint assuming your
clubhead speed should get faster with a lighter graphite shaft.
Those specs will get you close to the playability of an R400. You
might find the new shaft a little stronger than you are used to, but I
believe that is less of an evil than a shaft that is too soft.
I don't have my catalogs available to check the Aldila specs for you.
The APEX 3 shaft is a standard regular shaft equivalent to a True
Temper R300. An APEX 4 is equivalent to an S300.
|
1156.28 | | DPDMAI::VENEZIO | Perfect Practice Makes Perfect | Tue Dec 08 1992 12:27 | 8 |
| Ricks right on the money. One more thing to add, the TT graphite shafts
are identical to the steel shafts. True Temper is the only
graphite/steel manufacturer that duplicates both lines.
Bottom line, if your playing and S300 steel you can buy an S flex
graphite and not change the playability.
Ken
|
1156.29 | Steel to Graphite | SOFBAS::SULLIVAN | | Tue Dec 08 1992 17:01 | 17 |
|
Have any of you guys used the true temper "command" series shafts.
My brother-in-law ( a new club maker) recently put together for
me a golfsmith square-toe blade on a tt command grafite shaft. WOW!
I felt like I had a wiffle bat in my hands. For those that don't know
when I swing I SWING. I found that I finished the swing better with
this shaft but also feel that I over-powered it easily. My better
distances were achived with a slower- smoother type swing. What I
trying to say is I felt like I had to back-off on the club to get
the results I was looking for.
Q: Is it me?
Q: is ti the graphite?
Anyone else experience this?
- Dave
|
1156.30 | Grip it and rip it | WALTA::LENEHAN | don't happy, be worry | Wed Dec 09 1992 16:12 | 16 |
|
Hi Dave,
I know you...
and I also know that anyone who can pack a case of bud with/ice
in his golf bag shouldn't be swinging anything smaller than
a redwood tree !
Trust me Dave... the last think you need is a light club. :)
Don't buy a club unless the salesman needs two hands to lift it.
Hope to hook up with you next season , keep in touch.
Walta
|