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Conference 7.286::golf

Title:Welcome to the Golf Notes Conference!
Notice:FOR SALE notes in Note 69 please! Intros in note 863 or 61.
Moderator:FUNYET::ANDERSON
Created:Tue Feb 15 1994
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2129
Total number of notes:21499

1156.0. "Graphite Shafts" by GLDOA::KATZ (Follow your conscience) Mon Feb 11 1991 15:14

    I am interested in the difference between graphite shafts and metal
    shafts, specifically how they relate to performance. Do graphite
    shafts help you hit the ball farther because they are lighter?
    Thanks.
    
    			-Jim-
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1156.1Go graphiteWALTA::LENEHANstick-emMon Feb 11 1991 15:5817
    
    Hi Jim,
    
    	Geee funny you should bring up this topic... I just purchased a
    Taylor Made Buner Plus 9.5 degree graphite shaft driver last week.
    I used the same driver for 3 years, only it had a metal shaft...
    
    I bent the metal shaft  last year and started duck hooking everything .
    
    	I went out last sunday and played poquoi (sp) Brook and hit the
    graphite for the first time. The graphite driver is ~3/4" longer
    but to me it didn't feel longer/heavier... it felt very controllable,
    and let me swing hard with control. When I connected it went around
    20-30 yards further than my steel shafted driver. I also felt more
    aware of where the clubhead was during my swing.
    
    	Walta
1156.2PUTTER::WARFIELDGone GolfingTue Feb 12 1991 08:4310
    Walta,

    Gee funny that you should metion you experience with the graphite
    Taylor Made driver.  I had been playing a steel shafted 10.5 and
    bought the graphite 9.5.  My drives started going all over the
    place.  I also didn't like where the flex point was.  I ended up
    selling the graphite driver & picking up the Titanium version of
    the same club which I like much better.  To each his own...

	Larry
1156.3Can't play in the rain though...WALTA::LENEHANstick-emTue Feb 12 1991 09:3517
    
    Hi Larry,
    
    	Hitting anything other than steel is new to me... and I am
    	speaking from one day of experience with the graphite shaft,
    	so I'd be interested to hear more about your experience. Do
    	you know why the titanium corrected your problem spraying
    	the driver? I know nothing about titanium/graphite as far
    	as kickpoints or stiffness etc. What are the differences
    	between titanium and graphite? Does titanium provide a lower
    	swingweight?
    
    	As long as I don't hook the driver anymore I'd be a happy camper
    	hitting a shaft made of soap ! ;) 
    
    
    	Walta
1156.4PUTTER::WARFIELDGone GolfingTue Feb 12 1991 13:0414
     Walta,

     The graphite shaft was "stiff" but it felt alot whippier, more like
     my "Regular" shafted clubs before I switched to Stiff shafts.  The
     flex point my graphite shaft felt like it was closer to the club head.
     On the Ti shaft it is up near the grip.  I think the shaft flex was
     the largest cause of my problems.

     I wasn't trying to make any absolute statements about graphite.  I think
     that graphite has more variablity between shafts than steel (Based upon
     opinion rather than scientific data.) so it behoves the buyer to test
     out clubs to ensure they like them before buying.

	Larry
1156.5I know this shouldn't be here.GRANPA::RFAGLEYloose cannonTue Feb 12 1991 13:117
    Walta...
    
    Tried to send mail but you are supposedly unknown at node walta.
    
    Send me mail if you want to sell the bent 9.5 burner.
    
    Rick
1156.6So many shafts!FLYSQD::MONTVILLEWed Feb 13 1991 08:5015
    
    
    During one of my closing rouds last year I had the opportunity to
    try the "JUMBO" copies.  One of the guys had the graphite shaft
    and the other had a Titanium.  I had my metal shaft's.  I must say
    that I am not a long ball hitter...I first tried the graph. shaft
    and I said I loved it.  I then tried the Tt. shaft and I asked the
    guy if I could marry it.  To me the the titanium shaft is the way
    to go.  I added about 25-35 yards in distance and I believe due
    to the extra " on the shaft I corrected some minor hooking problems
    I had.
    
    Just my humble opinion!
    
    Bob
1156.7DPDMAI::VENEZIOMY other car is a GOLFCARTFri Feb 15 1991 15:2520
    The big difference between graphite/titanium and steel is "torque".
    Graphite and titanium give you less twist or torque thus keeping the
    clubface as square as you can get it. If your normal swing leaves the
    face open or closed, the graphite or titanium shaft will make some
    improvements. This generally equates to more distance. i.e. the
    shortest distance is the straight line theory.
    
    As far as flex and bend point, you can buy many variations on graphite.
    Fewer on titanium. Graphite offers all flexes and bend points. You can
    now match a graphite shaft to any steel shaft. Titanium is more
    restictive. (Fewer options).
    
    As far as feel, graphite does not offer the response that steel gives
    you from the clubhead to your hands. It's more like hitting a fungo bat
    in winter. Kinda dead feeling. Graphite will take some getting used to. 
    
    If your experimenting, I suggest the glack graphite as opposed to the
    gold. The black shafts tend to have more torque than the gold.
    Generally the gold equates to Boron/Graphite for the more advanced
    player.
1156.8Graphite = torque !ASABET::VARLEYFri Feb 15 1991 16:2010
     I disagree. The problem (at least with graphite) has ALWAYS been more
    and unpredictable torque. Different configurations of graphite will,
    however give you different amounts of torque, and they'll "feel"
    different.
     Graphite can be varied more than steel in its manufacture, and
    companies are constantly changing to find the answer to torque.
    IMO, Yonex has found the answer in their 200 series (which has a lot of
    boron...).
    
    --Jack
1156.9TI = 2.4 torqueMKFSA::DONMOYERSat Feb 16 1991 15:0315
    IMHO. In reply to .7 graphite shafts have always had a torque problem
    esp. in the R,L flex. From some of the specification I read the torque
    can be as much as 6 degrees. Although the stiffer flex S,X are better
    there is a significant price difference. One club making catalog has
    the Aldila HM-55, very low torque 1.8 degrees, for $108.00 just for
    the shaft. For the money TI is the way to go. I have also heard that
    if someone is considering graphite they should go up one flex strength,
    currently R goto S. This may explain the earlier noters problem with
    graphite. Another plug for TI is that this year the have low kick
    point version the orginal version was high kick.
    
    Waiting for warm weather...
    
    Dave
    
1156.10DPDMAI::VENEZIOMY other car is a GOLFCARTMon Feb 18 1991 12:4117
    Keep in mind one thing about torque:
    
    These numbers are the ADVERTISED torque measurements. Jack, I agree
    there are many different ways to manufacture graphite shafts but things
    have greatly improved from the late '70s variety. 
    
    When in doubt, play what feels best and disregard the numbers except
    those going on the scorecard.
    
    Re: .9
    
    The graphite shafts today have improved from earlier versions to the
    point where you can stay with the same flex as steel. Even in the
    whippier flexes. I do not recommend going to a stiffer flex.
    
    
    Ken
1156.11TORQUE YOU TOO..NEWPRT::JOHNSON_DOMon Feb 18 1991 13:1720
    TWO CENTS FROM THE WEST COAST  (SORRY ABOUT THE ALL CAPS)
    
    GRAPHITE DOES HAVE A TORQUE ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED.  IT WILL
    ADD DISTANCE, BUT NO GUARANTEE OF ITS DIRECTION.  I HAVE FOUND THAT
    WHILE THE ADVERTISING SAYS "MORE DISTANCE, LESS EFFORT" THE GRAPHITE
    CLUBS REQUIRE A CHANGE IN SWING.  NOT TO SLOWER, BUT FASTER WITH MORE
    CONTROL. HARD TO VISUALIZE, BUT SUFFICE TO SAY THAT BY SWINGING THE
    CLUB YOU WILL GET THE KICK IT IS DESIGNED TO GIVE, YOUR HANDS NEED TO
    BE FASTER TO COUNTER THE TORQUE.  WHAT RESULTS IS GREATER CLUB HEAD
    SPEED THROUGH THE HITTING ZONE.
    
    HAVE A TAYLOR 9.5 WITH THE GOLD BORON SHAFT AND HAVE BEEN ON THE VERGE
    OF DIVORCE WITH THE CLUB SINCE I GOT IT.  FUN TO HIT AND REWARDING TO
    HIT WELL, BUT BOY CAN IT BE UGLY.  WOULD NOT RECOMMEND GRAPHITE FOR
    IRONS BECAUSE OF THE VARIATION IN PERFORMANCE.  BECAUSE OF THE SWING
    MECHANICS DESCRIBED ABOVE, YOU CAN GET 20+YARDS VARIATION IN WHAT FEELS
    LIKE THE SAME SWING.  FRUSTRATING AND DEVASTATING IF YOU ARE MISSING
    GREENS.
    
    SO CAL DANDY
1156.12got me wonderingGRANPA::RFAGLEYloose cannonMon Feb 18 1991 14:3919
    I'm really suprised by the opinions expressed concerning graphite.
    
    The intent with graphite is to reduce overall club weight allowing
    the golfer to generate more clubhead speed.  The more expensive the
    shaft the less torque you have.  I don't have torque ratings for 
    steel shafts at my disposal here in the office.  I thought once the
    ratings got into the 3.5 range, you were getting less torque than
    steel.  
    
    I'm not sure how this fits, but I know that low torque (less than 3.0) 
    rated graphite shafts are not recommended for high handicappers.
    
    My personal experiences with graphite are positive.  I definately feel 
    any player can increase his distances.  I don't detect a loss in feel, 
    it's just a different feel!
    
    Rick
    
    is desireable according to the club pro's in my area.  
1156.13less weight - more distance...CVG::PKELLEYTue Feb 19 1991 11:1468
	Here is some info on shafts. You can draw your own conclusions.
	But, I have to say that graphite got a bad wrap in years gone
	by about being to flexible etc., they have come a LONG way. It
	is unfortuneate that some people still think that they have to
	go up a flex to get the same stiffness when going from steel to
	graphite (what you need to do is just get a good quality graphite
	shaft - that is if you generate a lot of clubhead speed). For
	easy swinging seniors and ladies the graphite shaft with more 
	torque is just fine and usually helpful.

	BTW, the modulus rating of graphite shafts is a measurement of its 
	ability to resist stretching (High Modulus - HM40 - HM55)...


	Shaft		| Weight | Torque |  Flex point | Material
	----------------------------------------------------------
	ALDILA HM-55	| 99	 |  1.8   |  MID        | BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-40	| 95	 |  2.0   |  MID	| BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-40 LF | 85	 |  2.8	  |  LOW        | BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-30	| 79	 |  3.6   |  LOW	| GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
	ALDILA HM-20    | 70     |  6.0   |  LOW	| BORON GRAPHITE
	GLT		| 84	 |  3.0	  |  MID	| BORON GRAPHITE
	LOW TORQUE	| 77	 |  5.0	  |  LOW	| BORON GRAPHITE
	-------------------------------------------------------
	ALLOY 2000 BLACK| 111    |  2.4   | MID-HIGH    | METAL COMPOSITION
	ALLOY 2000 PLAT | 113    |  2.6   | MID		| METAL COMPOSITION
	-------------------------------------------------------------------
	TRUE TEMPER
	BLACK GOLD TOUR | 100    |  2.5   | HIGH	| BORON GRAPHITE
	BLACK GOLD	| 85.5	 |  3.0   | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	MODULUS		| 87	 |  4.0	  | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	GOLD PLUS	| 93.5   |  3.0   | MID		| LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
	DYNAMIC GOLD    | 124	 |  2.6	  | HIGH	| STEEL
	DYNAMIC		| 124	 |  2.6   | HIGH	| STEEL
	TT LITE		| 113	 |  3.0	  | MID		| LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
	JET STEP	| 124	 |  2.9   | LOW		| STEEL
	-------------------------------------------------------------------
	KUNAN
	AUTOCLAVE 50	| 103    |  1.5	  | MID		| GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
	AUTOCLAVE 40	| 96	 |  2.5   | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	AUTOCLAVE 30    | 92	 |  3.5   | LOW		| BORON GRAPHITE
	1400 TFB WOOD	| 85	 |  4.5   | LOW		| BORON GRAPHITE
	--------------------------------------------------------------------
	SANDVIK
	A/R LOW FLEX	| 100.5  |  2.4	  | LOW		| TITANIUM
	S/R LOW FLEX	| 105.5  |  2.5   | LOW		| TITANIUM
	MFW STANDARD	| 100    |  2.5   | MID         | TITANIUM


	The weights above are in grams and the chart is for wood shafts only
	(iron shafts weights and torque vary from the above)...

	You will see that the torque for steel shafts is quite low and that
	if the manufacturers try to keep the weight of the boron graphite
	shafts down the torque rating goes up (they have to add materials
	to resist torque adding to the weight)...

	BTW, what a great time I had at the PGA show last month in Orlando.
        The number of Vendors with their products, WOW! All those you
	can imagine and more!  Got a chance to see some of the PROs and
	got autographed pictures of them.  Among them were, Payne Stewart,
	Al Geiberger, Byron Nelson, Ben Crenshaw,  Greg Norman,( but
	unfortunately, I didn't attend the day he was there, but my husband
	did and he was kind enough to stand in line to get his autographed
	picture).  

	P.
1156.14Golf Illustrated says...GLDOA::KATZFollow your conscienceThu Feb 21 1991 12:527
    In the March issure of GOlf Illustrated metal versus graphite
    shafts are discussed. The verdict is that unless you have 
    arthritis or bad joints you don't need graphite shafts, metal
    will suffice.
    
    
    			-Jim-
1156.15What is the HM-70MAIL::SCHULZWed Jun 19 1991 16:068
    Does anyone know the specs on the HM-70 that is in the J driver?
    
    Does it compare to the HM-40 that most Professionals use?  
    
    Is that shaft superior to the rest in torque and weight
    characteristics?
    
    Questioning!
1156.16What about titanium?MAIL::SCHULZMon Jun 24 1991 15:228
    Are titanium shafts stiffer than graphite or steel shafts. 
    Specifically, if I use a stiff shaft now, do I need to change up or
    down when using a TI shaft?
    
    Anyone have experience with these shafts?  What are the advantages and
    how do they compare to graphite?
    
    Tim
1156.17PUTTER::WARFIELDGone GolfingMon Jun 24 1991 17:1110
>    Are titanium shafts stiffer than graphite or steel shafts. 
>    Specifically, if I use a stiff shaft now, do I need to change up or
>    down when using a TI shaft?

     I don't know the specific answer to your stiffness question, but you
     you will probably stay the same as a steel shaft.  I've played steel,
     graphite, & TI all in a stiff shaft.  Steel & TI seem about the same.
     The graphite shaft seemed more like a regular flex steel shaft.

	Larry
1156.18tTo TI or not to TIMAIL::SCHULZMon Jun 24 1991 18:117
    Thanks Larry!
    
    I was wondering.  How would you rate the TI shaft?  Did it go farther
    and straighter than a Dynamic like shaft?  Would you pay the price for
    one?
    
    Tim
1156.19What about irons??CUJO::CRANERandy Crane DTN 553-3313Wed Jun 26 1991 13:479
    Seems this note is primarily discussing woods, but I have the Daiwa
    Exceller (sp?) in a driver and love it. Well, now I have a chance to
    buy a used set of the matching irons for a great price and wonder if
    anyone has any experience with graphite irons. I am a long hitter with
    club head speed between 95-100+.
    
    Thanks
    
    Randy
1156.20I didn't care for themSCAACT::ONAKABorn to GolfThu Jun 27 1991 15:3314
    Re: .19
    
    I have 6 graphite shafted drivers and currently uses daiwa Exceller
    wide-body driver and loves it. I also use Mizuno black turbo II 3-wood.
    
    Now, I had chance to try several sets of irons about a year ago and
    they were: TA 845 (I currently use), Hogan edge, Ping, Mizuno graphite
    irons and Yamaha secrets.  And When I used the graphite-shafted clubs,
    it just didn't feel 'right' probably because I've always had steel
    shafted irons. Toward the end of the round I started to hit little longer
    but couldn't finesse the shots like I can with steel and I didn't get
    additional 15 yards like the ad said for Yamaha irons.  It may work
    for you but I strongly suggest you play with it (if you can) on the
    course before you invest in them.                                 
1156.21Please, no wise comments about where ti hit the ball... DNEAST::STEVENS_JIMFri Jun 28 1991 13:2310
I recently had a guy make me a clone of the J-rDriver with a
graphite shaft. He used a good shaft (can't recall the name) with
a stiff flex.

I apparently hit a ball with the hozel (sp?) and the shaft
splintered where the shaft goes into the hozel...

Has anyone else had this happen ??

Jim
1156.22Free repair due youEPAVAX::OBRIENCertifiable golferFri Jun 28 1991 13:4913
    Jim,
    
    	Hitting in the hosel will not splinter a graphite shaft.  This
    failure mode is most often cause by not preparing the head properly
    before shafing.  I use a 22.5 degree ream to take burrs off the hosel
    before putting the shaft in.  There is usually a burr at the top of the
    hosel due to the casting process.  I would suggest that you take the
    club back to the club maker, have him ream the hosel and replace the
    shaft at no cost to you.  (That's what I would do for one of my
    customers)
    
    
    						KO
1156.23DNEAST::STEVENS_JIMFri Jun 28 1991 16:3213
KO

That's what I thought. The guy, who has made many clubs, said the
supplier told him that. I asked him if reamed it before putting
it together....He said he did.....

He sent the whole club back to the supplier. I will pass on
your comments....


Thanks...

Jim
1156.24NEWPRT::JOHNSON_DOMon Jul 01 1991 16:2815
    re:19 What about irons?
    
    Verdict is still out on the irons.  It is my understanding from reading
    some articles by shaft mfg.  that they do not feel they have perfected
    the shaft technology enough to give the feel and performance of steel. 
    The extra benefit of a long drive is one thing but the ability to
    launch a seven iron 180 when you wanted it to go 150 is what has led
    most golfers to avoid graphite shafts in irons.  This from an executive
    at Aldila.
    
    A big hitter with high club head speed needs to be real careful and get
    the clubs made for him/her.  The torque and flex are both accentuated
    in irons because of the weight of the head.
    
    SCD
1156.25Update of Shaft Spec.s / ExperianceCGOOA::DURNINWed Nov 27 1991 16:1986
[B
 Hi, I hope that we can continue to add to this chart as it is very
 usefull and there are a myriad of shafts out there.  I just purchased 
 my first graphite shaft as my driver got bent in shipment.  It is a
 firestick version of the HM-40 made by Graphalloy (I' check the name). 
    I'll keep you posted on the results.  I am a six handicapper 
    (used to be a 4 but children have come along).  

 FYI... I tried a comparison test 2 years ago on graphite vs. steel with 
 my driver and a test driver of comparable specs and there was NO 
 appreciable difference in yardage distance achieved.  As well, 
    at a different time about 2 years ago I did a steel vs TI test.  
    Again, No appreciable difference.

 Both test were 10 balls with each driver, 3 at a time and then switch the club
 and hit 3 with the other (in case I got tired).  I then paced the shots. 
 It was done on a golf course in the early evening when no one was around.
 The balls used were comparable quality balls mostly solid.

 The shafts have improved since then and I'll let you know my personal 
 results.  I am positive based on what I've seen with competitors and 
 other players and as well the lightness of the shaft which will change the
    swingweight initially from D4 to D0 making the club overall lighter.
    I had a lightweight steel shaft before (Appollo Spectre).

 I'm adding some specs here as I looked at the Kunan's (rough spec's from
 memory I will clarify and confirm them later) and the Graphalloy.  

 JD in Canada

	BTW, the modulus rating of graphite shafts is a measurement of its 
	ability to resist stretching (High Modulus - HM40 - HM55)...


	Shaft		| Weight | Torque |  Flex point | Material
	----------------------------------------------------------
	ALDILA HM-55	| 99	 |  1.8   |  MID        | BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-40	| 95	 |  2.0   |  MID	| BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-40 LF | 85	 |  2.8	  |  LOW        | BORON GRAPHITE
	ALDILA HM-30	| 79	 |  3.6   |  LOW	| GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
	ALDILA HM-20    | 70     |  6.0   |  LOW	| BORON GRAPHITE
	GLT		| 84	 |  3.0	  |  MID	| BORON GRAPHITE
	LOW TORQUE	| 77	 |  5.0	  |  LOW	| BORON GRAPHITE
	-------------------------------------------------------
	ALLOY 2000 BLACK| 111    |  2.4   | MID-HIGH    | METAL COMPOSITION
	ALLOY 2000 PLAT | 113    |  2.6   | MID		| METAL COMPOSITION
	-------------------------------------------------------------------
	TRUE TEMPER
	BLACK GOLD TOUR | 100    |  2.5   | HIGH	| BORON GRAPHITE
	BLACK GOLD	| 85.5	 |  3.0   | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	MODULUS		| 87	 |  4.0	  | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	GOLD PLUS	| 93.5   |  3.0   | MID		| LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
	DYNAMIC GOLD    | 124	 |  2.6	  | HIGH	| STEEL
	DYNAMIC		| 124	 |  2.6   | HIGH	| STEEL
	TT LITE		| 113	 |  3.0	  | MID		| LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL
	JET STEP	| 124	 |  2.9   | LOW		| STEEL
	-------------------------------------------------------------------
	KUNAN
	AUTOCLAVE 50	| 103    |  1.5	  | MID		| GRAPHITE COMPOSITION
	AUTOCLAVE 40	| 96	 |  2.5   | MID		| BORON GRAPHITE
	AUTOCLAVE 30    | 92	 |  3.5   | LOW		| BORON GRAPHITE
	1400 TFB WOOD	| 85	 |  4.5   | LOW		| BORON GRAPHITE
        K2		!        !  2.0   ! High        !
        K3              !        !  3.0   ! MID         !
        K4              !        !  4.0   ! LOW         !
        --------------------------------------------------------------------
        GRAPHALLOY
        MR-29           ! 97     !  2.0   ! MID         ! BORON GRAPHITE
                                                 (HM-40 CLONE WT IS MEASURED)
	--------------------------------------------------------------------
	SANDVIK
	A/R LOW FLEX	| 100.5  |  2.4	  | LOW		| TITANIUM
	S/R LOW FLEX	| 105.5  |  2.5   | LOW		| TITANIUM
	MFW STANDARD	| 100    |  2.5   | MID         | TITANIUM


	The weights above are in grams and the chart is for wood clubs only
	(iron shafts weights and torque vary from the above)...

	You will see that the torque for steel shafts is quite low and that
	if the manufacturers try to keep the weight of the boron graphite
	shafts down the torque rating goes up (they have to add materials
	to resist torque adding to the weight)...

    
                                                                 
1156.26MEIS::MCNULTYFri Dec 04 1992 12:0010
    Would anyone know an equivalent graphite shaft to a True Temper R400
    or Apex #3 steel shafts ?  
    
    In the Aldila line, does higher number relate to stiffer flex ? Thus,
    the HM-30 or HM-35 might be close to above regular shafts ?
    
    Thanks ...
    
    -gerry
    
1156.27IMHOGRANPA::RFAGLEYthings that make you go hmmmm...Fri Dec 04 1992 13:2220
    Let me give you some facts that might help.  Steel shafts carry a
    torque factor between 1.5 degrees and 2.0 degrees.  The R400 is a
    strong regular flex, weak stiff flex shaft.  The difference between
    the R400 and n S100/S200 is probably kick point.  The R400 will launch 
    the ball at a higher trajectory than the S100/S200.
    
    Look for a graphite shaft with 2.0 or lower torque rating.  You will
    also want a medium firm tip with a mid to low kickpoint.  The flex you are
    looking for will be on the border between graphite regular and firm.  I
    would probably go to a firm model with a low kickpoint assuming your 
    clubhead speed should get faster with a lighter graphite shaft.  
    
    Those specs will get you close to the playability of an R400.  You
    might find the new shaft a little stronger than you are used to, but I
    believe that is less of an evil than a shaft that is too soft.  
    
    I don't have my catalogs available to check the Aldila specs for you.
    
    The APEX 3 shaft is a standard regular shaft equivalent to a True
    Temper R300.  An APEX 4 is equivalent to an S300.
1156.28DPDMAI::VENEZIOPerfect Practice Makes PerfectTue Dec 08 1992 12:278
    Ricks right on the money. One more thing to add, the TT graphite shafts
    are identical to the steel shafts. True Temper is the only
    graphite/steel manufacturer that duplicates both lines. 
    
    Bottom line, if your playing and S300 steel you can buy an S flex
    graphite and not change the playability.
    
    Ken
1156.29Steel to GraphiteSOFBAS::SULLIVANTue Dec 08 1992 17:0117
    
     Have any of you guys used the true temper "command" series shafts.
     My brother-in-law ( a new club maker) recently put together for 
     me a golfsmith square-toe blade on a tt command grafite shaft. WOW!
     I felt like I had a wiffle bat in my hands. For those that don't know
     when I swing I SWING. I found that I finished the swing better with
     this shaft but also feel that I over-powered it easily. My better 
     distances were achived with a slower- smoother type swing. What I 
     trying to say is I felt like I had to back-off on the club to get
     the results I was looking for. 
     Q: Is it me?
     Q: is ti the graphite?
    
     Anyone else experience this?
    
     - Dave
     
1156.30Grip it and rip itWALTA::LENEHANdon't happy, be worryWed Dec 09 1992 16:1216
    
    Hi Dave,
    
    	I know you...
    
    	and I also know that anyone who can pack a case of bud with/ice
    	in his golf bag shouldn't be swinging anything smaller than 
    	a redwood tree !
    
    	Trust me Dave... the last think you need is a light club. :)
    
    	Don't buy a club  unless the salesman needs two hands to lift it.
    
    	Hope to hook up with you next season , keep in touch.
    
    	Walta