| Title: | God made man, but Sam Colt made men equal |
| Notice: | Welcome to the firearms conference! |
| Moderator: | PEAKS::OAKEY IN |
| Created: | Tue Mar 04 1986 |
| Last Modified: | Fri Jun 06 1997 |
| Last Successful Update: | Fri Jun 06 1997 |
| Number of topics: | 6616 |
| Total number of notes: | 49869 |
I have a scope mounted on my Winchester Model 70. I had the scope bore
sighted when I first had it mounted on the rifle. Then I proceeded to
sight it in. It didn't take much adjustment to get it right. I removed
the scope recently when I glass bedded the action and floated the
barrel. When remounted the scope and sighted it in it took a lot of
adjustment and many rounds fired to get it back to zero. This doesn't
concern me too much because I know that a relatively small difference
in mounting position makes a large difference in point of aim.
What I was wondering about is....
It seems to me that ideally a scope would be adjusted at a neutral
position such that the cross hairs are in the center of the tube both
horizontally and vertically. Again ideally the scope would mount on the
rifle such that it didn't need to be adjusted from this natural point
in order to be zeroed. We all know that this doesn't happen in the real
world. But I was wondering if there is anything to be gained from
trying to get as close as possible.
In other words, other than not have as much adjustment left in the
scope after having used so much adjustment to achive zero, does it
matter how far off of center with the tube that the cross hairs are?
Are the optics better in the center of lens? I am assuming that the lens
are concenteric with the tube. How would I go about returning the cross
hairs to their neutral position if it were desirable? Did the scope even
come from the factory in that position?
Do I worry too much about this kind of stuff? Should I get a life?
Thanks,
d.t.
| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6615.1 | Only if it's BAD!! | AUSS::HAGARTY | Wed May 28 1997 21:28 | 27 | |
Ahhh Gi'day...
You are right to worry, but unless you have a severly out of alignment
mount or receiver it shouldn't be a big problem. Remember that the tube
inside which the adjustments are is round - much like a clock. So that
if the scope is mounted with the adjustment in the middle, changes for
windage and elevation are maximum. But should the mount be offset to
one side, say at the 2-4 o'clock position, then the elevation will be
reduced.
Similarly if the scope is up at the 11 o'clock - 1 o'clock to get on
elevation then the windage adjustments will be severely reduced. It
pays to set the scope back to neutral settings (using a cardboard box
with a couple of notches cut out) before mounting - so that if there is
any latitude in the mounts this can be centered when fitting. Most
scopes have about 40-60 minutes of adjustment, so it has to be out by
quite a bit to notice.
Optics are never as good near the edge - but on good scopes, you
shouldn't notice as much - they make the scope to work over the range
of adjustment, the cheapers brands might trade this off.
As a general rule of thumb, 0.001" difference in receiver will make
about a 1 moa difference.
I bore sight all the time - put a dot on the wall about 20-25 yards
away, and it will strike about 2-4" high at 100 yards.
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| 6615.2 | thanks for the info! please explain | CXOSI::TEJA | Fri May 30 1997 13:10 | 9 | |
Thanks for the reply. You are a fountain of information! Could youu
please explain the cardboard box technique for resetting a scope to
its centered position. My scope is a Tasco World Class+ fixed 6x
(not the best but certainly not the worst). I would like to optimize
this settup as much as possible.
Thanks again,
d.t.
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| 6615.3 | more | AUSS::HAGARTY | Mon Jun 02 1997 19:31 | 22 | |
Ahhh Gi'day...
This might be a little difficult to explain. You take a cardboard box
with a couple of notches cut in either side (a small mox, about 5-10"
wide). Then lie the scope in the notches, which are cutout like little
Vee's.
Rotate the scope, while looking through it. You will see the crosshairs
move in a circular "orbit". Then adjust the scope (getting the
direction of adjustment right requires some thought) so that the centre
of the crosshairs no longer "orbits". You have just centered your
crosshairs in your scope.
From memory, you will have to move the crosshairs in the opposite
direction to that indicated on the tube. Just like bore sighting.
After bore sighting, the best way to sight in a rifle (for me anyway),
is to aim at a prominent point on a target (like a corner of a black
square) and fire one shot. Then put the rifle back in the solid rest,
and put the crosshairs on the aiming point. Then, without moving the
rifle, adjust the crosshairs over to 2" (or whatever) above where the
bullet struck. Then fire a three shot group to check - DONE!!
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| 6615.4 | Thanks | CXOSI::TEJA | Tue Jun 03 1997 15:36 | 4 | |
Thanks again!
d.t.
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