| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 145.1 | Making Progress, slowly... | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Thu Dec 19 1996 08:53 | 12 |
| 145.2 | Call to KZO Digital ... Randy V. | JULIET::ROYER | Nothing stuffs a stocking like a nice leg! | Thu Dec 19 1996 17:39 | 7 |
| 145.3 | Progress Continues | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Mon Jan 20 1997 16:32 | 19 |
| 145.4 | Power washer? | SOLVIT::TTHOMPSON | | Thu Jan 23 1997 18:28 | 24 |
| 145.5 | Steam's the way to go | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Mon Jan 27 1997 09:26 | 23 |
|
Farmall??!! This tractor predates the Farmall trademark by quite a
while. McCormick-Deering is more applicable.
Anyway, Pressure Washers. In my experiance, no pressure washer will
take off the old cruddy cast iron quality crud on an old tractor. It
will take most but not all. What one really needs is a steam cleaner.
For liability reasons, you can't rent them anymore. But, there are
business's which have them and will clean your stuff for you. They are
the best.
What I rented for my tractor was a 3000 PSI hot water washer. It
heats up the water after it is pressurized and it really tears stuff up
*BUT* not the hardened crud unless you can get under it. Some of the
crud that was left on my tractor will require a hammer and cold chisel.
But if I had access to a steam cleaner, it would come right off.
A 3000 PSI hot water washer would probably tear the siding off
your house. Unless you stood back at least 10 feet and kept it always
moving.
Dave
|
| 145.6 | Steam = Scary | SOLVIT::TTHOMPSON | | Mon Jan 27 1997 12:00 | 17 |
| Oops. Should have put "Farmall" in " ". No offense meant.
Yes, steam is good for the _really_ heavy stuff. Luckily, my old
relics only have a few places that would warrant it. I'll probably use
chisels and sweat there.
Many years ago I saw a guy running a Case steam tractor - with about
half of his face melted away. Learned that he was next to a live steam
line when it let loose many years earlier. Scary stuff, steam.
That 3000psi hot water unit sounds like something I can use for the
majority of the work I need to to.
As for the house...."...Aww...the rain will wash it off, Dear..."
Thanks, Dave, and take care,
TT.
|
| 145.7 | | APACHE::KEITH | Dr. Deuce | Fri Feb 21 1997 08:59 | 22 |
| I have a 3200 psi 4 gpm pressure washer driven by an 11 hp Honda engine. It
removes most anything including paint w/o paint remover!
With paint remover, well you have to experience it...! It is a total
body experience. Using a pressure washer of that magnatude (if it had
twice the pressure or twice the volume, you could not hang onto it),
you literally take a bath with it. To be effective, you must get close
which means that the chances of the water coming back at you are quite
good. It does disperse quickly though. The 1st time I let my younger
son try hanging onto it, his eyes lit up then he pointed skyward. I
could see the gears turning. He was thinking "hey I could make snow".
You could!
My Chev Bomb Truck needed a new valvecover gasket and when I removed
the cover, it was disgusting. I couldn't bear the thought to just
replace the gasket, so I laid out plastic tarps and a straw/hay filter
and pressure washed across the top of the head. 15 seconds and you
could eat off of it. Yes, I did change the oil after
Steve
|
| 145.8 | It works! | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Tue Apr 01 1997 11:20 | 16 |
|
It runs. I rolled it out of the garage last Friday, prep'd it, and
then cranked it. Actually, one doesn't crank an engine like that, one
gets the crank to about 1 o'clock and then forces it down hard. It
popped right away and after about 6 times, it started right up and
purred right along. Other than the slight amount of water coming from
the head gasket and radiator, for which I'm applying block sealer, it
looks really good and runs well. Quite an accomplishment for one
building a tractor from 5 wrecks - the engine alone was made from 3
different tractors.
Now on to cleaning, sheet mental work, and painting. Then we'll be
all ready for the summer shows!
Dave
|
| 145.9 | We had 10-20's - F4?? - H and W4's. | JULIET::ROYER | Greening up our lives. | Thu May 08 1997 16:44 | 10 |
| Dave,
Having a father who worked for International Harvester and having to
crank my share of tractors from said company, McD, was the early brand,
Start with the crank at about 7 O'clock and crank upwards in a snap
movement, with your hand cupped, so the thumb is not on the opposite
side of the crank as the fingers, ELSE the kick (back) may break your
thumb/wrist.
Dave
|
| 145.10 | Crank Safely! | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Thu May 15 1997 12:23 | 17 |
|
Yea, I was thinking the same thought after I was trying to start it on
the downward stroke - if this thing kicks I'm in trouble! I'll give the
upstroke starting a try but the thing is SO HARD to turn over. I am
using an after-market mag (WICO series C) with the built-in impulse
lag. I currently have the impulse set to about 4 degrees after TDC and
the run timing set for about 10 degrees before.
I noticed that the impulse hits at about 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock. I'm
quite paranoid about kickback and that's why I've set the impulse
timing to ATDC instead of TDC like the book wants you to do. And yes,
you gotta keep that thumb out of the way. The crank is ominously
slightly bent in the direction that it would be if it backfired and hit
something... :(
Dave
|
| 145.11 | ...but the thing is SO HARD to turn over | FIEVEL::FILGATE | Bruce Filgate SHR3-2/W4 237-6452 | Fri May 16 1997 06:33 | 5 |
|
Did McCormick not have compression release valves to make cranking
easier? The John Deere engines had these `petcocks' one per side.
Bruce
|
| 145.12 | Rebuilt engines are hard to crank. | JULIET::ROYER | Greening up our lives. | Sat May 17 1997 11:58 | 10 |
| No, McCormick Dearing did not have compression releases! John Deere
had to because of the way the two cylinder engines turned. But when
they backfired, the steering wheel would go into the next county.
The crazy way they cranked, remove the steering wheel, insert the
adapter, and insert into the flywheel...
Dave
|
| 145.13 | :-) not on ours, the steering wheel stays | FIEVEL::FILGATE | Bruce Filgate SHR3-2/W4 237-6452 | Mon May 19 1997 06:41 | 12 |
|
Hadn't seen the ones that cranked with a steering wheel, but I think
I see why. Some of the John Deeres with the starting / fly wheel
did not have any holes in the wheel, the wheel did have a very
large rim with finger-tip detents to grip. Had the fly-wheel had
holes, sooner or later a finger would be in the wrong place and
come up missing.
My assumption is that the JD that started with the steering wheel might
have pre-dated the fly-wheel models, and may have cost some finger/hands?
Bruce
|
| 145.14 | | JULIET::ROYER | Greening up our lives. | Mon May 19 1997 09:43 | 8 |
| JD Model A and the like, had the closed flywheel cover, you removed a
small port cover, insert adapter, use steering wheel to crank. They
may have caused a few missing fingers, glad I did not have to crank
one.
They were really handy to help learn swearing!
Dave
|
| 145.15 | | 32168::KEITH | Dr. Deuce | Thu May 22 1997 12:23 | 7 |
| My International T-20 Crawler (McCormick Engine) had to be 'wound up'
quite rapidly to start even with the inpulse thingie (techninal term)
on the mag working. It never kicked back but had the very bad habit of
throwing the crank if the idle was set too high. It would spit it right
out the front. It almost got me a few times...
Steve
|
| 145.16 | IT'S D O N E! | CSC32::D_BROWN | Dave Brown CSC-VSG/INTDRV | Thu Jun 05 1997 12:51 | 9 |
|
Todays' the day I've been waiting for; I'm done with my I-20. After
7+ months of grueling work with the last 6 weeks in painting, I'm done.
Its now ready for all the summer shows.
It's taken quite a toll mentally and financially. Now I've got to
earn some of that back with the fun I'll have!
Dave
|