Conference misery::feline_v1

This note has been irreparably damaged by a little kitten looking for
play time.....

I'll reenter it later - off to entertain Delia.....

right....now where were we?

Oh, yes....as a new 'parent' of a pedigreed kitten, i though i might enter
some information here about the process from the purchaser's side of the
fence.  If you are going to buy your dream kitten/cat anytime soon, be
prepared to provide/do:

1)  if you are a multi-cat household, you will need to provide separate
quarters for your new kitten for at least a couple of weeks.  You are
taking your kitten away from the only home he/she knows, and the only
'parents' he/she has known...a stressful time.  it is so important to
give your new resident some time to adapt to you and your schedule
before introducing kids, dogs, and/or other cats into the mixture.  

2)  an appointment with a vet who will become the primary care-giver for
your new charge.  Your vet will verify the kitten is healthy, of course,
but more important, you and your vet can map out a health maintenance
plan for the kitten for the next 12 months or so.  This appointment will
also give your vet a base-line of your kitten as a healthy animal...this
can make a big difference in catching illnesses before they get BAD.

Your breeder should provide you with a health certificate....if you are
lucky like me, you will get a complete blood panel report when you get your 
kitten.  This blood panel is the base-line against which we can measure
any future work ups.  My vet was deeply impressed with the health and
vitality of my kitten.....and when I handed over the blood panel, she
said I SHOULD CONGRATULATE THE BREEDER BECAUSE "this was the way it 
should be done" - she isn't easy to impress, either.....she, and everyone 
else in the clinic,  also said Delia is georgeous, of course....and my 
little ham just lapped it up - she was turning little pirouettes so they 
could see her tail flash.

[if you think I'm bad now, wait until I get the pictures!] 

Back to the regular programming...

3)  sign a contract with the breeder - this is a legal document which
outlines what you can and cannot do to the kitten, in reference to
breeding and de-clawing mostly, and the process necessary should you
decide to return the kitten.  If you don't agree with the contract
don't buy the kitten....if you buy the kitten, live to the contract.

In general, you should expect to keep the kitten indoors-only and with
all claws intact...

what you can expect to get:

1)  feeding instructions and grooming instructions from your breeder
outlining the best schedule for your kitten and letting you know the
brands of food she/he is used to.  if you are a new cat owner, ask to
see how a cat should be brushed and combed - it isn't as transparent
as you think - and what combs and brushes the breeder recommends.
Your kitten's claws will need to be trimmed - if you haven't done
it before, ask your breeder to demonstrate and/or explain how to
do this too.  Longer coated cats also need more frequent baths - also
ask your breeder about bathing schedules, shampoos and drying techniques.

Your breeder will also provide you with the aforementioned health
document and information about the immunization schedule for your
kitten.  This will be used by your vet to set up your schedule of
booster shots and regular check-ups.  

2)  a bright, vital, delightful and happy kitten - the kind of happy
that happens when a kitten has never known anything but love and
kindness.  I got her this way - and I'm going to keep her this way.

______________________________

well, we are settled into the temporary quarters - and now i will begin
to carry Delia's smell out to the other cats - little by little.
in a couple of weeks, she'll move out with them too.....we'll keep you
posted.

    Good note Dian.  Just one thing to add, when you buy a purebred kitten,
    it should also have been tested for FeLV and FIV before you take it
    home.
    
    Jo

    I thought kittens couldn't be tested until they were ?5 months old?
    

    
    re: .4  Some breeders do tear tests.
    
    
    

    Kittens can have blood drawn at four months with no problems.  I don't
    let my kittens go until they are at least four months old.  Lately I
    have been keeping them until they are between 5-6 months old though as
    they seem to adjust more easily to their new homes.
    
    Doing FeLV/FIV and a complete blood panel requires that two small vials of
    blood be drawn.  The FeLV/FIV is one test (now), and can be done in the
    vet's office.  The blood panel must be done by a lab.  Our lab gets the
    results back to us the next day, so I usually schedule the vet visit
    a day or two before the buyer is due to pick up the kitten.
    
    Jo

    I feel stupid, but the FeLV is the test for luekemia, right?  If it is,
    then I feel rather uneasy.  My vet tested all my kittens for this when
    I first picked them up .... at 8 weeks old!  Does this mean the the NEG
    results could be inconclusive?  Should I have them tested again?  My
    vet should have told me that they should be tested when older, I would
    think!  hurumff!
    
    Nancy

    Felv is Feline Leukemia.  If they were already tested, then they don't
    have to be tested again.  Cats can be tested as soon as they are big
    enough to draw blood from. That age will vary depending on breed size
    or size of the individual if they are mixed breed cats.
    
    Jo

    I did speak to my vet about this because I had the same concern as
    Nancy Cross. Callie was tested (negative thank goodness) for FELV
    at about 8 or 10 weeks. After this I heard that a test performed on a 
    cat under 4 months isn't necessarilly a true test. My vet sez that's 
    not true at all. Like Jo sed, A cat who's old/big enough to draw blood
    may be subject to the testing. He sez that many people have asked him
    this same question.
    
    Bonnie