Conference misery::feline_v1

4715.0. "GUIDE TO BUYING A PUREBRED CAT" by USDEV1::NDC (Putiput Scottish Folds DTN:297-2313) Thu Jun 13 1991 09:42

     Below is the GUIDE TO BUYING A PUREBRED CAT that I compiled for the
    pet fair in Concord on May 5th.   I put it together fast and much of
    the information came directly from my sources with little change. 
    References appear at the bottom.  I appologize for typos and hope
    that it is of help to folks.  Your comments are welcome, either
    here or off-line.
    
    *******************************************************************
    
    
    
GUIDE TO BUYING A PUREBRED CAT 

   compiled by Nancy H. Diettrich-Cunniff


What is a purebred?

	The majority of cats living as household pets are not purebreds.  
They are born of parents who are themselves unregistered, and in
most cases are of mixed ancestry.  Such cats are called freebreds
and are every bit as likely to be a pleasing companion as one with a
 blue-ribbon ancestry.  

	A purebred cat comes from a traceable line of mutual ancestry.
Such cats conform to a set standard which  describes the body type,  
coat coloring,  hair type,  head shape,  eye shape and color ,  earset,
and other required characteristics of the breed.  These cats consistently  
produce similar traits and characteristics in their offspringas the result
of a controlled breeding program.  The offspring of purebred cats must be
 registered with a cat association if they are to authenticate their purebred status.   

Cats that appear to be purebred cats but are not registered are referred to 
as  apparent purebreds.


Different types of purebreds - Picking the right breed 


	There are at least 36 recognized breeds of cat.  Some examples
include:  

Longhair cats -

 		
American Curl		Javanese  			Persian
Balinese        	Kashmir   			Ragdoll  
Birman           	Longhair Scottish Fold 	        Somali
Cymric            	Maine Coon Cat			Turkish Angora
Himalayan        	Norwegian Forest Cat     

             
Shorthair cats -

Abbysinian			Cornish Rex 		Oriental Shorthair
American Curl      		Devon Rex              	Russian Blue
American Shorthair      	Egyptian Mao          	Scottish Fold
American Wirehair       	Exotic Shorthair      	Siamese
Bombay                        	Havana Brown          	Singapura
British Shorthair         	Japanese Bobtail      	Snowshoe
Burmese                     	Korat                   Sphynx
Chartreux			Manx                    Tonkinese
Colorpoint Shorthair    	Ocicat



As well as having different physical characteristics, different breeds have
different personality traits.   For example, the Persianand Exotic Shorthair 
breeds tend to have a quiet, gentle temperament.  They are not excessively 
active cats.   Abyssinians, by comparison, are highly active, inquisitive 
and playful cats.   The Scottish fold falls between the two in energy level 
and are known for their comic and mischievous personalities.  Breeds such 
as the Siamese and Tonkinese are known for being quite vocal .  


It is very important to select a breed of cat that is compatible with your 
personality and lifestyle.  If you select a longhaired cat like a Persian 
then you must be prepared to undertake the grooming that is required with 
such a breed.  If you love the Persian personality but are unable to put 
in the time grooming,  or take the cat to a  professional groomer,  then 
an Exotic Shorthair would probably be a much better choice.


Take the time to research your chosen breed.   As well as physical and 
personality characteristics,  most breeds have possible problems 
associated with them.  A responsible breeder will have taken great care 
to minimize or eliminate the occurrence of such problems but not all 
breeders fall into this category.   It is important for you to familiarize 
yourself with these possible problems and know what to watch out for.   
Examples of such problems are skeletal problems in Scottish Folds.  These 
problems may manifest themselves in something as benign as a stiff tail, 
or as serious as crippling deformities. 


Where to get a purebred


Pet Shops:  

	Obtaining a freebred kitten from a pet shop is a satisfactory 
option if the animal is in obvious good health, has no apparent behavior 
problems, and is maintained in a clean, pleasant environment.   However,  
for the purchase of a purebred,  the Pet shop is not the best choice.   
While there are many responsible pet shops in existence, there are many 
others who acquire their purebreds from kitten mills or irresponsible 
breeders who care little for the overall health and quality of the breed.  
In such situations the customer may pay a high price for a purebred of 
lower quality and potentially poor health.


Animal  Shelters:

	It is sometimes possible to find purebred cats in animal shelters.   
This is especially true of adult cats.  These cats may or may not come with 
papers.  For the individual only interested in having a purebred as a pet 
then a shelter can be an excellent option. 


Veterinarians:

	Vets are often asked to find homes for cats and it is possible that 
a local vet may have a purebred cat to place.  Usually this means that the 
vet is familiar with the cat and its health record which is of obvious 
advantage to the prospective owner.


Breeders or Catteries:

	"Some kittens purchased from a cattery are more expensive than 
anticipated  by  pet owners,  because of the time and expense involved in 
creating a  line  of  cats that meet the breed standards set down by the 
various national cat associations.   Producing beautiful, healthy, happy 
kittens is a costly hobby, and most breeders become involved for the sheer  
love of it.  Catteries are an important source when looking for a kitten 
most likely to possess the physical and behavioral qualities  expected of 
its breed.  However, some catteries are better than others, while some are 
not at all satisfactory." (1)

	Breeders who produce purebred cats that meet breed standards will 
often be involved in cat shows.  Cats at shows are evaluated by other 
breeders,  exhibitors, show judges and other knowledgeable cat people.  
This allows a breeder's cats to be compared to others of the same breed 
to check for quality and conformity to the breed standard.  A breeder 
who consistently produces  cats of substandard quality loses credibility.

Not all breeders are involved in cat shows.  Cat shows are not for everybody 
and a breeder may choose not to be involved while still producing excellent 
quality cats.   Also,  like many other things there are "fashions" to cat 
breeds and a breeder may  prefer a different style to that which is the 
accepted style at cat shows.  Such a breeder would not do well at a cat 
show because of failure to conform to the breed standard.   In some cases 
this is acceptable.  An excellent example is found in the breeding of the 
Siamese.  Most people are familiar with the Applehead or traditional Siamese.     
However, the current show Siamese style,  called the "wedgehead" calls for  
a much thinner cat with a longer straighter profile that the average person 
may not recognize as a Siamese. 

Other breeders may not participate in cat shows because they breed cats 
strictly as a source of income.   Such breeders may or may not use 
registered purebreds and may not provide papers to the buyer.  They may 
have little or no interest in the quality or health of the cats.  Typically 
they sell their kittens at lower prices than the more respected catteries 
charge.  Usually there is no kitten contract and no health guarantee.   
*Such breeders are a poor source for any kitten.*


Typically a good breeder will show a great deal of interest in his/her 
kittens' prospective homes and buyers.  A prospective buyer should expect 
a lot of questions and feel free to ask questions of the breeder.  A breeder 
who displays no interest  in the future of his/her kittens is probably not 
a good person from whom to purchase a cat.

Breeders may often be found at local cat shows.  The show catalog lists all 
entries by class (e.g. kitten, cat, altered purebred, household pet) along 
with the names of owner and breeder.  It also lists the addresses of all 
exhibitors.  Since exhibitors are usually extremely busy at shows that may 
not be the best location for an extended discussion.  Use the show as a 
method of first contact and follow up at a more convenient time.

Cat magazines such as CAT FANCY, CATS  and I LOVE CATS typically list a 
calendar of cat shows as well as a breeder directory.


Prices - what to expect

	Show quality cats may cost hundreds or thousands of dollars.  
Typical prices range from $600-$1000.  Breeder quality cats may cost 
slightly less.  Pet quality kittens typically start around $250.  

	Show Quality:   This cat is an excellent example of the breed  
        and one that conforms closely to the breed standard and as such  
        has the potential to do very well on the show circuit. This cat 
        is free from any defects that would disqualify it from competition 
        and is being sold with the expectation that it will be shown and 
        bred to another show or breeder quality cat.


	Breeder Quality:  The breeder quality cat is also of excellent 
        quality however it typically has some characteristic that would  
        be a disadvantage or would disqualify it from the show circuit.  
        A good example of a breeder quality cat is a straight-earred
        Scottish Fold.  These are cats that did not inherit the gene for 
        folded ears.  Such cats are a critical component of the breeding 
        program but are ineligible for championship competition in all  
        cat organizations. 


	Pet Quality:   These are cats who my fail to live up to the  
        strict letter of the breed standard but are otherwise beautiful, 
        healthy examples of their breed.  Often these cats can do quite 
        well in the alter (neutered)  classes at cat shows.   The mating 
        of even the best quality purebreds usually does not produce an 
        entire litter of show quality cats and those  not considered top 
        quality are usually sold as pets. 



The Kitten Contract:

	Many breeders require the signing of a kitten contract when they 
sell a kitten.  Such a contract generally protects the buyer, breeder and 
kitten.  Besides giving purchase price and health guarantee these contracts 
often specify other conditions.

Such conditions may include -

  * 	Kitten must be spayed/neutered at the appropriate age and may 
        not be bred.  Often the breeder will not provide registration 
        papers until proof of neutering is received from the buyer.

  * 	Kitten/Cat may not be declawed 

  *	Kitten/Cat must be indoor only

  * 	Kitten/Cat must be returned to breeder in event that buyer 
        can no longer keep cat.

  * 	Kitten/Cat may not be sold or given to pet shop, laboratory, or
       	animal shelter.

  *   	Kitten/Cat must be taken to vet for a "well visit" within 2 weeks
        of purchase.



Danger signs - when to say no (2)


The kitten's nose should be cool and damp.  A kitten with runny eyes or 
nose, or who is sneezing or coughing may have an upper respiratory infection.

Gums and mucous membranes should be a light pink.  A pale color is a sign 
of anemia.

Eyes should be clear, bright and free of watery discharge and matter.  There 
should be no white spots on the surface of the eye which could be scars 
from injuries or infections.  Redness or protrusions of the third eyelid 
also may indicate a chronic eye ailment or poor health.   

Eyes should look straight ahead.  A cross-eyed look is undesirable.
(This is especially common in Siamese.)

The ear canals should be clean.  A buildup of wax with a rancid odor could 
be caused by ear mites.  Head shaking and tenderness about the ears indicate 
an infection of the ear canal.

Feel the stomach.  If it is swollen this would indicate poor feeding or 
possibly worms.  A bulge at the navel is most likely an umbilical hernia.

The coat should be fluffy, glossy and free of mats.  Excessive scale, sores, 
itching and deposits in the fur indicate fleas, mites or other external 
parasites.   Bald patches may indicate fungal infection (ringworm).

Examine the kitten for soundness and correct structure.  The legs should be 
straight and well formed; the feet cupped and the toes well-arched.  The 
gait should be free and smooth.  Avoid the kitten who is stiff-legged or 
lame.

The kitten should appear in correct proportion for his age & size.  Eight 
to twelve week old kittens are typically 2-3 pounds.

The well-socialized kitten, when talked to, appears eager for attention.  
When picked up he settles down and relaxes.  When stroked, he may begin 
to purr.  These are good indications.

A kitten who is inactive, withdrawn, who does not interact well with his 
littermates, who shrinks when spoken to or resents being picked up and 
remains tense, may be timid or in poor health.  

As good health and good disposition so often go hand in hand, it is perhaps 
wise, in making the final selection, to pick the sturdy individual with 
bright eyes who is full of life and bursting with self confidence.

 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Author's Note:   While much of the above information was taken from my 
references (listed below) it nevertheless reflects my experience, 
feelings and opinions.    For more complete information the reader is 
advised to seek out the references listed below. 

        Nancy DC
   Putiput Scottish Folds
     31 Peach Street
   Braintree,  Ma  02184
      617 849-9771 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

(1)  THE CORNELL BOOK OF CATS  edited by Mordecai Siegal

         Copyright 1989 by Mordecai Siegal and Cornell University

         on behalf of Cornell Feline Health Center


(2) CAT OWNERUS HOME VETERINARY HANDBOOK 

        by Delbert G. Carlson DVM, and James M. Giffin, M.D.

        Copyright 1983 by Howell Book House Inc.   


(3) FELINE HUSBANDRY  Diseases and Management in the 

       Multiple-Cat Environment  Niels C. Pedersen DVM, PhD

       Copyright 1991  American Veterinary Publications, Inc.
    

    Excellent write-up Nancy - lots of information and it answers a lot 
    of important questions.
    
    I do have one question, however, if inappropriate please feel free to
    say so.
    
    You mention the cost structure of purchasing/adopting a purebred
    (freebred) cat/kitten.  To a lot of us I am sure this sounds 
    expensive - perhaps you could also put in here how much it costs a 
    breeder to maintain the health of one of it's cats so that there is 
    some sort of relativity.  Then I don't think the $600/$1,000 price 
    would then seem expensive.
    
    Thanks, and again, great note!
    
    Marilyn
    

    The $600 - $1000 is for a top quality show cat and that reflects
    not only the cost of raising that particular cat but the years
    of work that has gone into producing that cat.  Here are a few
    expenses that go along with a cattery:
    
    Tokyo cage $120
    
    Cat Shows - entry fee alone $35-$60 per cat/per weekend, plus food,
                plus gas, plus wear & tear on the car, plus hotel.  Plus
                vet visit if the cat picks something up at the show.
    
    Cat Litter: - $7.00 - $10.00/ 50 lbs  - I use a min of 50 lbs per week
    
    Cat food - $17-$35/case of 24 14oz cans.  My cats eat 4 full cans per
               day plus dry.
               Dry food - $18-$30/20 lb bag depending
    Vaccines - about $2 each.  Each kitten of mine gets a series of 3
               4-in-1's plus a rabies at 12 weeks.   From the vet about
               $7-$10 each.  I know the FLV booster is $18 from my vet.
    
    FLV test - from the vet $25
    
    Spay/neuter for retired studs/queens  $45-$120
    
    Alarm system - $800 plus $25/month monitoring fee.  Yes, I bought this
           specifically because of the cats.
    
    Business cards/advertizing - Bus. cards run $75/1000.  Advertising
           varies.
    
    OB/GYN visit to vet at 49 days  $25
    
    Stud Fees - $250-$600
    
    Show quality cats to improve lines:  $600-$1000
    
    Plus add in disinfectants, pet food bowls, show curtains, building
    materials for cattery, linoleum, cat boxes, plastic bags for changing
    the cat boxes etc etc etc etc.
    
    I'm sure Jo, Diane, Penny and others can add to that list.  In fact,
    Jo, please add in the cost of a cesarian section, emergency spay
    and care for cat/kittens with URI's.  You've, unfortunately, had
    experience with these.  I have not. *yet*
    
    Nancy
    
    

    Nancy,
    
    I really enjoyed reading your note!  I learned a lot.  I have my
    special cat, Heather, and she is just a domestic short hair.    
    
    Julie

    Julie - As far as I'm concerned ALL cats are special be they
    purebred or "freebred" (I like that term)
      Glad you enjoyed it.
      Nancy
    
    p.s. much of that is applicable to getting ANY kitten from any 
    source.
    

    A great note, Nancy.  And as the saying goes, "there is no such thing
    as a free kitten" with all the costs involved be it purebred or
    freebred.
    
    Pat
    

    C-section during the day, regular vet, with me assisting to save money
    would be about $250.  C-section at night, emergency vet who does not
    know me and will not allow me to assist would be about $500 and up.
    
    Surgery for grand champion female who was shot after being let out of
    the house during an attempted break in...$500  follow up care...$300
    
    Cost of supportive care and therapy for stud cat with serious
    illness...$1200
    
    Cost of surgery for monorchid neuter with me assisting...$150
    
    Cost of supportive care, medications, vet visit, for a litter of 4 with
    URI can run from $100-$300 depending on what supplies the breeder has on
    hand, and how knowledgeable they are about medicating and giving
    supportive care.
    
    These things are unique to my cattery in the last year, but they do
    reflect some of my expenses and so they have to be considered.  In
    setting kitten prices, I chose the most reasonable price for me, that
    is also bearable by the market.  For me, that is $400 for pet quality
    kittens.  That does not cover my expenses, nor make me a profit.  I
    charge much more for show quality kittens.  Show quality kittens carry
    some of the weight of price for the pets.  They also reflect the
    popularity or exclusivity of the line.
    
    Another thing that this accounting of expenses doesn't take into
    account is the thing that isnt' billed to the breed, and that is their
    time.  The amount of time that I spend with my cats, playing with them,
    taking care of them, nursing them, doing my cattery paperwork, etc. is
    enormous.  I spend almost all my waking hours away from this job, doing
    something that relates to my cats and cattery.  I have taken days off
    of DEC to work at my vet in order to help out my vet bill.  As an
    aside, I pay my vet a weekly retainer.  My balance is usually about
    $1200 at any given time. :^)  Easier to pay her a small amount every
    week than to have to pay it all at once.
    
    Jo
    
    

    Oh - I forgot to mention:
    
    $7 fee for each litter registration - and I register both CFA & CFF
    $30 (?) cattery registration fee per organization
    $7 fee for each cat/kitten registered, each transfer of registration
        and sometimes for corrections.  Plus fees to claim championships 
        etc.
    
    it all adds up.
    

    Cattery registration is up to $50 in CFA now.  The litter registration
    is $7.00, plus $6.00 per kitten.  I think the transfer fee is still
    $7.00.  Championship fee is $5.00 now.  All the costs went up in CFA at
    the first of the year.
    
    CFA Alamanac is $18 a year, I think.  Plus, breed club memberships are
    $15.00 a piece for me.  Subscriptions to Cat Fancy, Cats, and Cat World
    are more expenses.  Then, I belong to three local clubs who all charge
    $15.00 a year membership fees.
    
    I spend a fortune on postage for returning inquiries about kittens,
    money for film and developing of kitten pictures, professional photos
    for show cats.  Advertising costs a bit too, depending on where and
    when you do it.
    
    Jo

    
    
    FYI, the CFA Almanac went up to $ 21.00 per year.