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Title: | Meower Power is Valuing Differences |
Notice: | FELINE_V1 is moving 1/11/94 5pm PST to MISERY |
Moderator: | MISERY::VANZUYLEN_RO |
|
Created: | Sun Feb 09 1986 |
Last Modified: | Tue Jan 11 1994 |
Last Successful Update: | Fri Jun 06 1997 |
Number of topics: | 5089 |
Total number of notes: | 60366 |
3457.0. "Toilet Training Step by Step..." by SMEGIT::ROSSI () Mon Mar 26 1990 13:50
A few of you have asked me to enter the step by step information on toilet
training your cat.
The book is entitled "You can train your cat" by Jo and Paul Loeb.
"Cats can be taught how to use the toilet simply because they have
superb balance and are built right. Their normal squatting position
insures that he/she will urinate or defecate right into the toilet,
once sitting straddle-legged atop it.
The main trick in toilet training is just to be consistent, persistent,
and above all patient. It doesn't really require any major effort on
your part. It's mostly time that is needed for the cat or kitten to
make the adjustment. You must teach him slowly and methodically. Be
sure he knows each step thoroughly before going on to the next. If
necessary, go back a step, but never push too hard or too fast. If you
go beyond your cat's limits, you can ruin the whole thing.
The first step in toilet training is to make sure your cat or kitten is
completely litter trained. It is best to start with a young cat or
kitten since he has yet to be deeply imprinted with the habit of using
a box. However, even an older cat can be trained; it just takes
longer.
For training you will need a spare toilet seat minus the cover. In
addition get a plain, shallow litter box which fulfills all the normal
requirements for litter boxes. Make sure it is as shallow as possible,
while still allowing enough room for both the cat' litter and the cat
to be there (say 4 inches deep). When the spare toilet seat is placed
atop it, there should be an overlap of on-half to one inch all around
except for the hinge side, which should fit flush. At the same time
the box must be strong enough to hold the weight of the toilet seat and
cat on it. The litter box and all training should take place in the
bathroom place the new litter box there.
Place the toilet seat on top of the box and attach it securely. Attach
only the hinge portion of the seat to one side of the box this way once
the seat is attached to the box it will open and close the way a seat
does on a toilet so you can lift it up to easily clean the box. Make
sure the seat is solidly attached. If the seat is loose and slips
around or if your cat knocks it off and it falls, you might just as well
forget the whole thing. The cat may not even use the box again, let
alone go near a toilet seat.
Once your cat is using the new litter box with the toilet seat
attached, start constructing a support or base under the box to raise
it up off the floor. Some people use a pile of telephone directories
others some larger magazines. Your could try newspapers, but whatever
you use make sure it makes a very secure base.
The idea here is to slowly raise the box higher and higher until it
reaches the height of a regular toilet. You do this by elevating it at
a rate of about one-fourth to one inch every few days, depending upon
the size, age, and willingness to learn of the cat or kitten being
trained. Keep in mind that a young kitten can only jump to certain
heights untill he has had time to grow and develop physically.
Keep raising the box continually so that the cat has to jump higher and
higher. A cat has a superb sense of balance, but the box must be
stable enough to hold steady every time your cat jumps up to use it.
If your cat refuses to go to the next new height, lower the box until
it is back to the point of security where he will use it again. Don't
forget to correct him when he makes a mistake and does not go in the
box.
When the seat is raised to the exact height of the toilet with the seat
down, leave it at that level for a while. Now is the time to make sure
your cat is balancing on the seat when relieving himself. a very small
kitten will go inside the seat into the box. As he gets larger he will
start to feel slightly cramped, and then will tend to balance himself
on the seat rather than stepping into the box. Some cats, however,
never make this transition no matter how large they are, and you must
force the issue.
First take a thin piece of wood one-eight thick, two inches wide and
one inch longer than the length of the litter box. Place it over the
box but under the seat so that it lies flat. The hole into which your
cat has been jumping is now cut in half. He therefore has to start
balancing himself in order to use the box. If he refuses to use it
with this setup, reprimand him for going outside the box. Remove the
wood and go back a step to just using the box for a few days.
Then try placing a piece of string across the box the same way you did
with the wood. This way the hole is again cut down but this time with
a far less objectionable obstruction. Your cat will still be able to
get into the box, the string simply makes it uncomfortable for him may
possibly force him to start balancing. If this doesn't work tie
another piece of string in the other direction. With the second string
his feet will become a little more entangled. He will therefore, try
to balance himself somehow in order to relieve himself in his litter
box. If all else fails, a more direct approach might encourage him to
move out of the box onto the seat. Gradually remove the amount of
litter in the box until the bottom is barely covered. Then replace the
litter with newspaper or a paper towel. Your cat won't like this and
may tend to squat on the seat. If that doesn't work, try a little
water in the bottom of the box or a tray filled with water in the
center. This should do the trick. Use one of these techniques at a
time, not all at the same time. Each of these little tricks is
designed to get him to start balancing.
Don't rush the training. Many cats will learn right off the bat; others
take more time. Work slowly and at your cat's pace. Be persistent;
keep on trying until he starts.
Once your cat is balancing on the seat and the box is the same height
as the toilet, your cat may well tend to become confused and start
using the other seat on the john without any further encouragement. If
he does, be grateful for it.
If your cat doesn't make the move over to the toilet, gradually move
the box over towards the toilet. This can be tricky maneuver, so be
careful that the box is secure at all times. Balance the box on both
its base gradually moving it further and further over to the toilet.
Soon the litter box should be resting atop only the toilet.
Leave the base where it is. This way you can simply move the box over
if you or a guest want to use the toilet, and then replace it. Once
the cat has been using the box atop the toilet, balancing perfectly,
and making no mistakes for about a week, remove the litter box
completely and leave just the toilet. The first day you take the box
off, confine your cat to the bathroom for the entire day. If he goes
on the floor, you know he's not ready. Reprimand him. Put the box
back on the seat and keep him confined until he uses the box. After he
uses it just once, let him go.
You might have to repeat the final step several times. But once a cat
is hooked on going in the toilet just once or twice it's all over, the
transference has been made.
Once your cat is toilet trained, the bathroom door must be kept open at
all times, the toilet lid must be kept up and the seat kept down.
GOOD LUCK!!!!
Valerie
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