Conference napalm::guitar

	I keep my acoustic in it's case during the winter. I keep the
	strats on stands, out of direct sunlight and out of paths
	of travel.

	I clean fretboards with 0000 steel wool about once a year.
	I clean the finish with Gibson guitar polish about 3 times
	a year.

    
    Maybe I'm just paranoid (actually, there's no maybe about it!!) but I 
    ALWAYS return my guitars to the case after using/abusing them. I also
    wipe 'em down real well to remove sweat, skin oil, beer, scotch,
    drool... etc. 
    
    my 2 cents,
    
    Billy_K

    I always wipe down the neck and any other place touched by humans after
    playing.  A clean dry well-worn cloth diaper has no equal for this
    (recent parents take note).
    
    I put my acoustics away, and my LP, but I don't think that most
    solid-body electrics have construction characteristics that would make
    it necessary to case them all the time.  Sitting on a stand means
    you're more likely to grab it and practice.
    
    For maint, I use Old English lemon oil (what Carvin recommends) for
    unfinished wood such as fretboards and natural finishes.  For the shiny
    wood I use Martin guitar polish --- and diapers.  I keep a Guardfather
    in the cases during the winter.
    
    My understanding is that stable environments --- even if somewhat humid
    or warm or dry or cool --- are not what causes problems, it's the
    CHANGE in environment, especially if sudden, that is bad for wood and
    finishes.
    \Gary not a guitar doctor but play one etc.

>    A clean dry well-worn cloth diaper has no equal for this (recent
>    parents take note).
    
    And I can attest to the fact that Pampers suck for this...
              
    Greg

   re: .-2

   I believe guitar noter extrordinaire Danny Weber has warned in here
   numerous times about using Lemon Oil on guitars, especially fretboards.  I
   know I've read somewhere that the oils in the lemon oil can mix with human
   oils and at a minimum create a substance which gives off a rancid smell.
   I'm really surpised Carvin would recommend it.  Also, over oiling the
   boards can make your frets loosen up.

   I use a very small amount of woodwind bore oil on my finger boards (except
   the fretless bass - it's phenolic resin) about once a year (or less) when
   I do a fret polish.  Painted body finishes get either guitar polish or
   furniture polish (Pledge, etc).  My natural wood finished guitars get
   wiped down regularly.  And I wipe all my guitars wherever they get touched
   both during and after playing.  My hands tend to sweat a lot, and I keep
   a rag by my amp so I can wipe down the neck between tunes, etc.

   -- Sam
   

    Not to knock Danny's opinion, but I've used lemon oil (made for use on
    instruments) on my guitars for years and have never experienced any ill
    effects or bad odors (those come from my playing...)  Perhaps this is
    because of the very dry climate I live in, I don't know.
    
    I've used some stuff called Tres Amigo's for the last couple of years
    that seems to work good.  It's a kit that has a bottle of lemon oil and
    a bottle of carnauba wax.  I use the lemon oil on the fretboards of my
    guitars when they look visibly dry, every 3-6 months, and put the wax
    polish on the bodies maybe once a year.  The wax is real hard once you
    get it polished up and resists fingerprints, sweat, and other goo quite
    well.  It is, however, a big pain in the butt to get polished once it
    hardens, so I don't do it real often.  Seems to last a long time
    anyway...
    
    As far as daily care, I generally wipe down the guitar and the strings
    with a soft cloth when I'm done playing and keep 'em in their cases.
    
    Greg

    
    
       And from the other side of the spectrum.
    
       Mine stay on stands in the living room.  Get picked up three 
    to five times a night, even if it is for just ten seconds. (Of 
    course I do this to my favorite only.  The others sulk in the 
    corner.) They get placed back on the stand and dats it. I wipe 
    them down maybe once a month or so.  Every 10 to 12 months, they 
    get polished.  (I hate taking the 12 string apart. It takes forever 
    to restring and tune up to where it's stable.) 
    
       For me, the instrument dictates the care. When the day come 
    that I spring for a LP or a Strat, you can bet I will baby it, (them?)
    I should mention that the Guild goes back to the case every time. But, 
    since the broken nut, it (she?) stays in the case.
    
       Hmmmmm, I wonder what that Carvin looks like?  
    
    
       Rick. 
    
    

    
    
         Hi Steve!
    
         I also keep my guitars in their case when not in use.
         I all ways wipe down the strings to remove the natural acid
         that builds up on them from your fingers.
    
         On cleaning the fretboard:
    
         I also use a little bit of bore oil with some real fine
         steel wool to remove all that grunge.
         The bore oil not only cleans your fretb. It also conditions it so
         it doesn't dry out so bad. If your in a high humidity location,
         it probably wouldn't have to be done quite as often.
    
         A totally clean guitar makes for alot cleaner sound. 
         
                           Bobby D.(a Non-Clapton basher)
    
                                       
    
    
    
    

    Thanks guys and Hi to you Bobby D!
    
    Steve ( a Clapton admirer )
    
    8^)

    I also recommend cloth diapers for polishing almost anything.  And
    Greg, the Pampers work better if they've never been used!
    
    Dave

    If there's anything I hate more than lemon oil on guitars, it's finding
    my name being bandied about in a string I'm not participating in. The
    reason I'm not is that this subject has been beaten to death previously
    in this conference. Since I find myself being used as an expert witness
    anyway, I might as well get my licks in directly.
    
    In my opinion...
    
    The best care you can give your guitars is to wipe them off thoroughly
    as soon as you're through playing them. Wipe the strings, neck, body
    where your arm or hand has touched it and all metal parts. If you do it
    right, it still won't take more than a minute. I prefer to use a
    chamois--flannelette, old t-shirts or any other well-worn cotton works
    too, but nothing is as good as chamois, which has the right combination
    of smoothness and friction. Make sure you get the real stuff, which BTW
    comes from domestic goats and not from rare mountain creatures. A large
    piece of it costs about $15 and will make 4 or 5 pieces which will each
    last 10 or more years, so it's not as expensive as it seems
    
    If you do this religiously, you will rarely have to do anything else
    and even gold plating will last for many years.
    
    If you live in climates that have cold winters, it may be necessary to
    oil ebony fretboards. Do it lightly, and only when they appear to be
    drying out. Rosewood will rarely need oiling--it is naturally oily and
    readily absorbs finger oils. Maple  or lacquered rosewood boards should
    not be oiled. Over the years I
    have used raw linseed, machine oil and lemon oil. Lemon oil is not
    good, being too thick and unstable. Several repair persons have
    suggested 50/50 turpentine and raw linseed oil, which seems to work
    very well for me.
    
    Don't ever oil the body or neck of an instrument unless it has an oil
    finish! Poly finishes don't need anything and lacquer finishes can be
    harmed by the use of any type of oil--even the ones that say "Safe for
    any finish." Light use of Gibson or Martin spray polish is okay for
    lacquer finishes. Lemon Pledge is fine for poly finishes, and I
    sometimes use it on the neck of a lacquer guitar to eliminate
    stickiness. Don't use too much or do it often. I usually polish a
    guitar and oil the fretboard when I first get it, and then rarely
    after.
    
    For those who say "I've been doing this for years and it hasn't harmed
    them yet", all I can say is I seen far more damage to guitars from over
    oiling and excessive use of polish than from the reverse. Even if it
    doesn't do direct damage, it can make future repairs difficult or
    impossible. I can also tell you that most repair persons and luthiers I
    know advise strongly against applying anything except occasional polish
    to guitars.
    
    The only exception I make to this rule is when I get a vintage guitar
    that has an oxidized finish or a gunk build-up that won't yield to
    plain polish. For these, I use the appropriate grades of Meguiars
    Mirror Glaze with very careful polishing to remove the oxidized layer,
    followed by Meguiars #7 and finally Gibson or Martin polish.
    
    
    Danny W.
       

    Thanks Danny for the rather, er, "complete" answer; I was wondering
    when you'd clock in!  Sounds like my maple neck strat needs little to
    no care, and my Les paul needs the fretboard checked for dryness. 
    Where does one acquire these suggested oils?
    
    Steve

    
    
        "Bandied about"? 
    
        Jeeze, make a comment referencing someone who is well 
    respected for their knowledge and get cut off at the knees?   
    
        Well, thanks for the info anyway.  I appreciate knowing 
    what to use, when I do clean and polish. (Every leap year.)  
    
        
        Rick.
    
        PS: I myself find it difficult to seek out all the 
            information in here - 2.6k + notes and all.
     

re: .13 (re: .11 (re: .5))

   Thanks.  I was wondering if it was just me.

   -- Sam

    re: Danny
    
    When you use the chamois on your guitar, can I presume you wet it, like
    you would one you'd use on a car?
    
    As far as using lemon oil, you mentioned that it was "thick".  That
    seems odd to me, as all the lemon oil I've used has been very thin. 
    Perhaps it's diluted?  
    
    FWIW, I never oil fretboards that don't appear visably dry.  In the
    climate here (Colorado, > 10% humidity most of the time), this happens
    a lot more often then other places I've lived.  I never had to do it to
    'em when I was living in North Carolina at all.
                                                   
    Greg

	I picked up a bottle of Roche-Thomas "Premium Fingerboard Oil" at my
local Sam Ash music store.$2.95 for 2fl-oz. Did 5 guitar necks and it didn't
even make a dent, so this bottle should last me about as long as by (still)
original bottle of Martin Guitar Polish ;^).

-John-  

    I bought a couple of 2 oz bottles of lemon oil from Angela Instruments a
    few years ago. Steve M (owner) touted this stuff as being the same as
    the long lost Gibson brand that can't be found anymore. The bottles have
    no markings. The stuff is fairly thick. Maybe Steve was selling me snake
    oil but the guy has a pretty good rep in the industry. So I believe him
    when he says that this is the stuff you want to use.

    I use it on my '54 Tele fretboard which has almost no finish at all left
    on it.

    --Ron

    re: .13, .14, whatever.
    
    I didn't think I needed to put a smiley after my opening paragraph. It
    was meant to be lighthearted.
    
    I know lots of people tout lemon oil as being good for guitars. I
    disagree with them. If you use it sparingly on the fretboard, it
    probably wont hurt. If you use it on the body of a lacquered guitar, it
    may do substantial damage. Since there are better things to oil
    fretboards, why not use them instead?
    
    Raw linseed oil is available at almost any hardware store. The quart I
    bought 30 years ago has done hundreds of boards and is still almost
    full.
    
    Chamois is used dry. Just wipe the guitar with it. If you plan to
    polish the guitar, buff the polish with a cotton cloth before using the
    chamois--too much polish will ruin the chamois (it can be washed, but
    this makes it a little stiff--exercise it a bit before using it)  I
    keep a piece of flannelette in each guitar case and leave several
    chamois cloths around the house in stategic spots. 
    
    The guitar I have owned the longest is a '59 L-5C, which I bought new.
    The finish is perfect, the gold sparkles, there is no oxidation or
    corrosion. The fretboard has some small splits which I have repaired
    with super glue--these are inevitable in an ebony board and they are of
    no real significance. It is a great guitar and I play it often. I have
    probably polished it a dozen times, perhaps every two or three years.
    Ditto for oiling the fretboard. I always wipe it thoroughly after
    playing it, with a piece of chamois I've had since the '60's. Although
    not all my guitars are this mint, all the ones of which I'm the
    original owner are. It really doesn't take much work.
    
    
    Danny W.

    
    
    
        It was note 13.   It was me.   
    
        I apologize Mr. Weber.  I didn't think it light hearted.
    I've never known you to post flames,  so maybe there should
    have been a tad bit more trust on my side.  
    
        If youy accept this apology, send me one arch top by 
    Christmas day.
                    ;^J
    
        Rick. 
    
    
                       

    Well since I have a rather dry complextion, sweat is only
    a problem in the summer.  
    
    As far as rubdowns go,  I use a  touch of Isopropl on the strings
    on occasion in the summer when things get sticky.
    
    Body cleaning wise, a damp cotton cloth, and buff with dry.  Takes most
    if not every smudge off.
    
    Idle time,,,  I happen to think the your strings suffer the
    most from the open air.  I think they tend to oxidize and
    get flat much quicker if always left out (That GREEN effect)
    
    So, when I'm done for the day,,, in the case they go.
    
    I have everything set up in my basement, so on Saturday's
    around mid a.m. when I first head down, I'll keep what
    ever the passion for the day is, on a stand, when I know I'm
    done, their cased and brought upstairs for storage.
    
    My brother inlaw once had a 72 sunburst strat.  He litteraly 
    polished the finish off. with DAILY excessive cleanings.
    This took about 15 months to do..  He couldn't understand why,
    rubbed harder...
    
    Oh well..
    

    I was the one who brought up the subject of lemon oil in the first
    place, being a major stockholder in the lemon oil cartel..... ;7)
    
    I used to use linseed oil on fretboards and neatsfoot oil on my mitt,
    oh nevermind, this is not the baseball conference.  Carvin is the one
    who recommended lemon oil, so I started using it on the neck and body
    of my new Koa natural finish guitar.  Carvin recommends Old English;
    you can get it in any supermarket, and linseed oil in any art or
    hardware store.
    
    I would never use an oil on wood that did not have open pores or a
    natural rubbed finish; I use polish on that.  I hope I didn't imply
    otherwise.
    
    None of this maintenance should be overdone, but that doesn't mean it
    shouldn't be done at all.  My old man was an importer of fine furniture
    antiques and reproductions, so I have some appreciation of woodworking,
    refinishing, and care as I used to repair pieces that arrived damaged.
    \Gary

    Copied w/o permission from John Carruthers' column, GP 11/78
    
    "A caution against oils and silicones. Oils and silicone-containing
    polishes should never be applied to the fingerboard, because they may
    cause deterioration of the glue that laminates the fingerboard to the
    neck; furthermore, if oils or silicones seep under the adjoining
    finished surfaces it may be impossible to refinish those areas in the
    future. Also, some organic oils will turn rancid, creating an
    unpleasant smell. In general, avoid putting oils or materials on *any*
    (his emphasis) part of your guitar, as they may  work their way into
    the wood through breaks or cracks in the finished surfaces making
    future refinishing difficult or impossible. When refinishing guitars it
    is also advisable to avoid a hand-rubbed oil finish, since it does not
    adequately protect the wood and may reduce resonant qualities. Always
    keep in mind that wood (even when it has a protective finish) is
    extremely sensitive and must be treated with the utmost care."
    
    I have often seen statements to the effect of " this is good for
    furniture, so it should be good for my guitar."  Guitars are NOT
    furniture and have different requirements. Treat a guitar like the
    dining room table, and that's what it will sound and play like.
    
    Danny W.
        
    
    
     
    
    

    re: -1 caution against oils......
    
    Sooooo, what do I put on my LP's ebony fretboard....it is looking
    rather dry to the point of having a good bit of "open" grain.
    
    Help!?
    
    Steve

    I don't take such an extreme position myself, but I think Carruthers is
    reacting to seeing many over-oiled boards that have been ruined by such
    treatment.
    
    Note # 1508.xx has my advice on proper oiling. Done judiciously and
    only when necessary, it should not cause any harm, and may even help
    :-). Be sure to read the follow-up replies, too.
    
    Danny W.

    Well I oiled my LP's ebony fretboard with a method I saw in note 1508. 
    I used the 10w40 motor oil on the paper towel method....my fretboard
    was really dry....soaked that stuff up, fast!  It looks alot newer,
    too....kind like what Armour All does to rubber...
    
    
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