Conference napalm::guitar

    
    One more thing...
    
    I'd like to know what this stuff is gonna cost me.
    
    Thanks.
    

    New Les Pauls with case can be obtained with reasonable discounts thru
    catalogs (which I don't recommend) for aroung $800 for a std, and $1100
    for a Custom.  They're hanging in local music stores here marked at
    retail for about $1300, and a 30% discount is not too hard to
    negotiate. (South Carolina).  I have seen some very nice used LP's for
    around $600 in used equipment stores and pawn shops.  When I was in
    Colorado Springs, I was in a store that had 3 used LP's ranging from
    $300 to $450, the latter being a beautiful blonde Custom....my buddy
    bought it most hastily!  It just depends on being in the right place at
    the right time!  If you are in the New England area, you have the
    advantage (if it is an advantage) of there being lots of stores to shop
    in; not so in my area.  Good luck......Les Pauls are my fav!

     
    Do a "dir/tit=roland" and "dir/tit=jc" for notes on Roland Jazz Chorus
    amplifiers.  Most people agree these are great for clean sounds but the
    onboard distortion is pretty mediocre.  But with a good outboard
    distortion this is a potent amp.  In the $500 range for 120 watt models
    (they also make one or two smaller ones).
    
    Larry Carlton currently plays custom solid bodies built by Valley Arts
    Guitar of L.A.  They are essentially Stratocaster-type guitars with real
    high-grade hardware and electronics.  The main advantage of these over
    Gibsons is they make possible the glassy tones that are so popular
    today, but can still give you that fat humbucker tone if you get the
    right pickups.  
    
    							Brian

    Les Pauls are excellent guitars for almost anything I think.   I
    had a 73 gold top delux, and I really loved it...
    
    However, I'd personnaly tend to give the Strat the most versatility 
    out of the standard cast of available peices today.  Easy to manage,
    straight forward, nice feel...  Great for rock, jazz, blues,,,,
    
    As far as Larry Carlton goes, I'd guess the guy probably has
    dozens of guitars, and just 'felt like that one' on the day the
    pictures were taken.  But yeah, I think he uses a 335 lots myself
    'S-a-weeet sounding..
    
    Es335s are real nice, but I'm not hooked on em for the heavier side
    of Rock and Roll, but thats a personal opinion.  Many artists use
    them, and they sound fine.  (Alez Lifeson [Rush] is one that
    comes to mind..  (I think size wise, they're a bit too big for me)
    
    Telecasters are o.k. for some venues, but they tend to  fall short on
    the hard rock.  Real good for Blues, Jazz and G-a-reat for C&W..
    
    If you really want a versitle guitar, maybe the best approach would
    be to look for something that has humbuckers with coil cutters, so
    you could have both a nice single coil type sound, coupled with the
    smoother/warmer humbucker sound by just hitting the coil switch. Of
    course there some compromises to the single coil with the cutters,
    however, they do very nicely..
    
    Washburn makes some nice guitars that have this feature.
    
    As does Ibanez....
    
    But hey,. it's 1990, the market is flooded with stuff from just about
    everywhere.  You can pick up something real nice starting from
    approx $500.00 to what was mentioned for a new 'Paul...  
    
    One of the biggest evolutions in the last 10 years is the emerging of
    Japense guitars as quality instruments.   (Yamaha, Ibanez, etc..)
    
    Used may be a real good alternative for you.
    
    
    RE: Roland AMP.  You were probably seeing one of the Roland Chours
    Combos.  Nice..  But there's others.  The only advice I can offer
    further would be to look for something that offers channel switching.
    
    That way there, you could set up one channel for your clean sound, and
    the other for your overderiven sounds.
    
    I guess it's all in how much money you want to spend given that the
    stuff will stay in your house most of the time.  Hey, you never no,
    next year you could be playing out..  Get something that'll do it all.
    
    
    If you live near Nashua, or Plastow N.H. check out Hampshire Music.
    They have quite a stock of things to look over, and there prices are
    decent.  If you're into mail order, try either East Coast Sound in
    Danbury Connecticut , or the Music Emphorium in (I think... ) Cambridge.

    
    
    
    	I'm as pleased with my stuff now as I've ever been, so I'll tell
    you.  I built a Telecaster with a Seymour Duncan JB in the bridge
    position and a Fender re-issue Strat in the Rhythm position.  Bought a
    swamp ash body from Stewart-Mac, and finished it with about 10 coats of
    Homer Formby's Tung Oil (I've used this stuff on bodies that have been
    stripped with good results too, Greg)... Cost $200, but I got my
    pickups and neck for really good prices used.. so it would probably
    have cost $350.   I play through and Fender Super 60 (i've only had it
    for a month or so... but...) that absolutely amazes me... The JB is
    split with one of those pull/push tone pot/switch thingies, and this
    setup can go from nasty distortion with the humbucker, to blues in the
    middle (with the JB in for a littel punch and out for Fender Sound) to
    some clean (if a little flutey) jazz with the re-isues... I love these
    toys, I wonder why I asked Santa for a Strat??
    
    
    Steve

    When shopping around for a new amp, what are some of the factors you
    consider that help you decide whether you want a combo or a head/cab
    setup?  I can think of a few, but would like to hear from the more
    experienced.
    
    - size of playing environment (i.e., studio, hall, club, etc.)
    - sound/tone (of course)
    - budget
    - flexibility/portability

	I like small and easy to set up equipment. I play thru a twin
	reverb because:

		1) I like the sound (probably the most important aspect).

		2) It's a single cabinet with everything in it &
		   all of the cables are pre-wired - just turn on and
		   play.

		3) It's fairly small - good for small clubs, basement
		   jam sessions and medium to large venues (may require
		   a microphone in front for the P.A.).

		4) Tho it's small, it kicks butt.

	If you don't like the sound (no matter what the configuration),
	don't buy it.

	One thing that strongly suggest on any amp - remove the 6 foot
	cord and replace it with a 16 gauge (or 14 gauge) 25 foot
	cord - outlets are always 10 feet or more away. These are available
	at hardware stores - just cut off the end and install it (it'll
	be bright yellow or orange or blue, but who cares as long as it
	serves you).

								Jens

    5) and it weighs at least 200lbs...

    6) which is less than a Marshall � stack.
    
    

    7) but not less than a Marshall � stack.

    8) but there is always the Marshall Mini Stack

    Re: .11
    
    Guess what, according to the latest Marchall catlaog, the Micro Stack.
    Lead 12 and Reverb 12 are gone, replcaed by the 10 watt Valvestate
    versions with 8" speakers...
    
    On the base note:  unless you need the larger cabs for most of your
    playing (i.e. metal or hard rock) a combo is the way to go.  Most amp
    companies make the same amp chassis available in both combo and head
    versions anyway, and in a pinch you can always add an extra cab for the
    times you need to push more air.  
    
    Keep this in mind: unless you are going to be doing lots of playing in
    large rooms (like theaters) you don't need monster amps.  As part of
    the KISS principle, I recommend bringing no more to a gig than is
    needed to get the job done.  
    
    							Brian

    True words - I've got a 50W Laney combo, which is small enough to carry
    around easily.  If I need more db's, add my Marshall 4x12, and it's
    MORE than enough for any clubs around here.  To get the BEST sound,
    you'd wanna mic it anyway ... the guys that think they need mega stacks
    to be heard are usually killing the band.
    
    Scary (who had to learn the hard way ...)

>    6) which is less than a Marshall � stack.
 
    9) ..but is not less then any single piece of a Marshall 1/2 stack!   
    

    
    
    I'm not an experienced "pro-player" but the times I have played out
    recently.. in small clubs I've had my deluxe reverb set on 2�.  I'd
    have to say that old fender combos are the way to go... but it's based
    on my musical tastes and personal preferences...  they sound great and
    they are cheap compared to new ones.
    
    Regards,
    Gree Vee

    I'm torn between a JCM900 2x12 combo and a JCM900 head with a 2x12 cab. 
    I'm still trying to take everything into consideration and the size of
    places I typically play at.
    

    combo ....
    
    Scary

    I'd like to point out that Twin reverbs weigh between 80 to 100 pounds 
    depending on what speakers they have in them. 200 pounds is a gross
    exageration. My late model "The Twin" has emminence speakers and weighs
    about 80 pounds. Still, this is a substantial amount of weight to haul.
    I hardly ever use the handle. I bend down, grab the amp against my
    chest with both arms and stand up. This is much better than trying to
    lift 80 pounds with one arm.
    
    Lately, I've been rehearsing with a band, and I have been traveling 
    very light to most practices. I generally carry my bass, and a guitar
    stand. I leave my amp at practice. This is so refreshing after all
    those years of carrying tons of stuff all the time.
    
    Mark
      

    
    Mark is right! I actually went curious and placed my Twin (with those
    Emminence speakers) on a bathing weight - and it reached 36 kilograms
    (american pounds = X2 ?)...it's a f* beast to carry around...
    
    Poul
    

    Mikey...
    
    NOTE:  The NEW JCM 900 2x12 cabs DO NOT fit a std sized Marshall tube
    head!!  The new JCM 900 2x12 cabs are smaller in size, to accomidate
    the newer, smaller 2x12 JCM 900 combo amps.  If you decide to go with a
    full sized head, you'll have to scoop a JCM 800 2x12 cab.
    
    Although, the combo/2x12 set up would be nice...loud, versitile, but
    small and easy to carry!
    
    Just fyi...

    Re: Twin
    
    My KH M1 was that much!
    
>    NOTE:  The NEW JCM 900 2x12 cabs DO NOT fit a std sized Marshall tube
>    head!!  The new JCM 900 2x12 cabs are smaller in size, to accomidate
>    the newer, smaller 2x12 JCM 900 combo amps.  If you decide to go with a
>    full sized head, you'll have to scoop a JCM 800 2x12 cab.
    
    You're wrong Buck.  Marshall has a new 1936 cab that is a head-sized
    2x12 yielding a � stack.  Anyone that has a catalog can vouch for me on
    this one since it's in there with a head sitting on it.
    
    However, there is another 2x12 that sits in the same cab as the 4x10. 
    This is the one you're thinking of.
    
    Mike

    re: Buck
    
    I think you're wrong.  I have a Marshall catalog right here in front of
    me that has a photo of a 2500 head sitting on top of a model 1936
    ("Head") 2x12 cab.  According to the specs, they are exactly the same
    width.  A 1960 4x12 cab is 10mm wider.
    
    You're thinking about the model 1922 ("Combo") 2x12 cab, which is 80mm
    smaller.
    
    Regarding your debate Mike, it depends on what you want.  If you want
    the ability to upgrade to a full 4x12 stack, then you probably want the
    seperate head and (model 1936) 2x12 cab.  This option will cost you
    more then the 2x12 combo, but give you the option to upgrade later.  I
    personally think that seperate Marshall heads and cabs are easier to
    sell later then combos.  This will also give you two pieces that each
    weigh less, so if you want less weight and more trips then this is a
    good option for you.
    
    If you want to save some money and make one trip carrying it instead of
    two, then get the combo.  If you find you want more speakers, then get
    a (model 1922) matching cab to go with it.
    
    Greg

    Woop, notes collision...

	The question of weight has come up a few times. My Twin Reverb weighs
	110 lbs (this is because of me re-building the case and adding a
	2 high rack mount in the top and a voltage filter/noise suppressor
	added to the 4 outlets/fan on the back cover). There is a simple
	solution that you should address on any heavy piece of equipment -
	put wheels on it. I buy heavy duty 2 1/2 inch to 3 inch diameter
	wheels and put them on anything that is heavy. Saves your back
	and your hands. In general, If it doesn't have wheels on it, it
	should be able to be put onto something with wheels on it when
	it's being moved. If you have no desire to put wheels on your gear,
	at least make a rolling support out of 2 X 4's and plywood with
	strong wheels on it. I used to help move a Hammond M3, in it's
	original mahogany veneer wooden case, at least once a week when
	our keyboard player used it at gigs. Wheels prevented a hernia
	in this case.

							Jens

    To all those who think I'm wrong...
    
    OK, I *don't* have a catalog in front of me, HOWEVER, I was recently
    shopping JCM 900s for Cheryle West, and EU Wurlitzer told me (quote)
    "What size head does she have?  The new 2x12's are smaller...theres
    one over there...you see, they're about an inch and a half too short,
    and only support the combos"
    
    So, based on what I saw and heard from the salesmen...

    Well you should shop at a dealer that knows what they're talking about
    ;-)  The 1922 cab is for combos, 1936 is for heads.
    
    >                      -< get off my back already >-
    
    We're not on your back, just pointing out that there are more options
    available.
    
    Mike

I was gonna say...

Mistake number 1:  

-Shopping at Wurlys


Mistake number 2:

-Talking to a saleperson about tech stuff. 

(Smiles)

Mike,

I'd get the head cabinet combination for a few reasons:

	1. I've always felt that head/cabinet combinations sound better than
	   combos.  Sometimes you can make a pretty good case why this shouldn't
	   matter, but it seems to anyway (at least to my ears).  Go listen to
	   some side by side and I think you'll hear what I mean - or decide I'm
	   crazy :)

	2. Head/cab combinations are somewhat more expandable and flexible (oh,
	   you can add a 4x12 to your combo, but its just not as neat).

	3. A 2x12 cab isn't going to hose up your portability.  The folks
	   arguing for portability might have a case if you were talking about a
	   4x12 cab, but not with a 2x12 cab. 

	4. I think someone already mentioned resale.  I think the head/cabinet
	   combination would be easier to sell should you want to later.

I don't know what the difference in price is between a DR combo and a head/2x12
cabinet, but if it was substantial I'd probably get the combo.  There isn't
going to be that much difference between the two, except perhaps the sound
quality I mentioned in #1 above.

BTW: I played a 900 DR combo a few months back that sounded killer... I think it
was the 100W model.

steve