T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1553.1 | 3c worth of advice | MILKWY::JACQUES | | Tue Nov 14 1989 13:07 | 52 |
| Wow, that's a pretty drastic thing to do to a Marshall cabinet.
Oh well, what's done is done. I am assuming you constructed the
new sides out of plywood, of the same thickness as the original
sides. A few comments on modifying your cabinets... Make sure that
you heavily brace the new sides, seal the cabinet with something
like silicon caulking, and chamfer the edges with a router. Select
a router bit which will duplicate the chamfer on the rest of the
cabinet.
I believe you are referring to "Ozite" carpeting. It is available
in every color *except* black (charcoal grey, blue, brown, and green
are the most common colors) from places like Grossman's lumber,
Somerville Lumber, K-MART, etc. If you insist on using black Ozite,
Eddy's furniture and carpet in Worcester may have some in stock. If
not, they can order it for you. Some Ozite is thicker than others.
The thicker carpeting is more rugged, but it is a bitch to work
with, especially on speaker cabinets. In order to attach the Ozite
(or Tolex, if you decide to use Tolex), you must use contact cement.
Contact cement is really the only thing strong enough to bond heavy
fabric to wood. Contact cement has many dangerous characteristics
which you *must* bear in mind when using it. First of all, it is
extremely flammable. Do not use contact cement anywhere near a gas
appliance with a pilot light, or an electrical appliance that could
spark. Contact cement emits a very strong odor of toluene (sp) which
is very flammable, and is also very toxic to people. I recommend you
use it outdoors, or in a well ventilated area. Keep children, and
especially pregnant women away from the fumes. If you use contact
cement in a poorly ventilated area, you will become very light-headed
and may even pass out from the fumes. It will literally make you
high as a kite. Contact cement should be applied liberally to both
surfaces (the wood and the fabric) and you should allow it a few
minutes to set up. Once it begins to set up, attach the fabric to
the wood. Make sure to line it up properly the first time, as it
is very unforgiving. Once you lay the fabric down on the wood, you
will have very little chance of re-lifting it to make adjustments,
so make sure you have no bubbles, or folds in the material the first
time. The fabric must be stretched around the edges, and and tucked
neatly inside the cabinet. The corners should be as neat as possible,
but the metal corners will cover up a little bit of error. The best
way to do this job is with another person helping you. Make sure to
buy plenty of contact cement (you'll probably use a whole gallon
for the two cabinets). I usually use the cheap foam paint brushes
to apply it. I learned this art from an old friend I was in a band
with. We did up several speaker cabinets, guitar cases, racks, etc.
He had a source for original Fender Tolex, and grille cloth and we
restored many Fender cabs and amps. I have never worked with Ozite,
though. I am limited to working with vinyl.
Good luck. Hope this helps.
Mark
|
1553.2 | ouch! | RAVEN1::DANDREA | Fractured Fairy Tales | Tue Nov 14 1989 13:07 | 6 |
| Coop,
I know where ya can get some grey fuzzy stuff, but it could be painful
to remove......|^)
Bulldawg
|
1553.3 | | ASAHI::COOPER | Rack ROCKET! | Tue Nov 14 1989 14:53 | 19 |
| RE: .1
Wow ! Man, your scaring me to death ! I'm chicken to try it now.
Though, not because of the fumes...I'm just thinking that if I botch
it, I'll wreck my cabs ! Why doncha come down here and help me
??!?!? ;^) As for wood, I used 3/4" marine plywood (same as on
the thing when I started) for the other side. They are monsters,
but i'm hoping to get the KILLER ADA cab sound from them, at a 10th
of the price...
Any other ideas on what I can do to finish the cabs ? I suppose
I could paint 'em...(Like they are...)
Steve man, STOP ! Your crackin' me up !
Rastro sez: Rouch !
jc
|
1553.4 | did you bury the marshal logo yet? | ROYALT::BUSENBARK | | Tue Nov 14 1989 15:12 | 4 |
| Peavey dealers sell "fuzzy carpet" for covering amp's I believe a
square yard is around $19.95. Also I know someone who did a whole
sound system with the grey ozite and used "Liquid nail's" for an
adhesive....
|
1553.5 | Go for it! | CSC32::G_HOUSE | I just can't slow down | Tue Nov 14 1989 17:07 | 26 |
| Hey Jeff! I just recovered a nice old Ampeg cab with black Ozite a
couple of weeks ago. If I were you, I'd go ahead and try it, it's not
as hard as it might sound. The worst thing that might happen is that
you'd have to pull the Ozite off, toss it and try again. I don't think
it's any more difficult to work with then Tolex, maybe easier because
it's a little stretchy and you can pull the seams together even if
they're a bit off.
While the contact cement is kind of a pain (don't get it on the outside
of the ozite, it's really hard to get off!), it's not *that* bad. You
*can* peel it off and reposition it. It's a lot easier to work with if
you have two people...
The only thing that I found tedious about doing that was getting it cut
precisely. I tried to avoid having seams along the corners so I split
it into a kind of star pattern and the seams are on the back. This was
a little more difficult, but I think it was worth it. The Ozite has a
little bit of stretch which can really save you if your measurements
are a little off and the knapp of the material makes the seams not so
visable. Don't try to overlap it though, it doesn't work well.
BTW, the Ozite I got only cost me $4/sq. yard. Be sure you get LOTs of
the contact cement, as Mark said, the Ozite really soaks it up! I used
about 3/4 of a gallon doing a small 4x12 cab (27x30x14).
Greg
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1553.6 | | ASAHI::SCARY | Joke 'em if they can't take a ... | Wed Nov 15 1989 01:20 | 18 |
| uh Jeff ... I changed my mind. I want my cabinet back . . .
.
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.
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.
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BUSTED
------
Scary ...
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1553.7 | more ideas | MILKWY::JACQUES | | Wed Nov 15 1989 08:48 | 56 |
| A few more details about cabinet finishing.
First of all the cabinet should be completely disassembled into
the shell (sides,top,bottom) the front (speaker baffle) and the back
(unless this is an open back cab). If this is an open back cab, there
should still be some wooden panels on the top and bottom of the back,
which serve to strengthen the cabinet. These panels should be removed,
and covered separately. Bear in mind that the covering will make all the
pieces fit much tighter (especially Ozite), so the speaker baffle and
back cover/panels will probably have to be shaved slightly to allow
them to fit back together once the finishing is done. Even though the
speaker baffle is covered with grille cloth, it will still need to be
trimmed, because the Ozite gets tucked inside the cabinet and makes
the baffle opening smaller.
I know my explanation in .1 is a bit incriminating if you have never
done this type of work before. I am personally kind of fussy about
fit and finish on my equipment. Even if your not quite as fussy, the
cabinet should still fit together right, and look at least halfway
decent after it's done, otherwise why bother.
I generally do the entire shell in one piece, with the seam
centered at the bottom of the shell. With Tolex, you can overlap
the fabric at the seam. Since Ozite is so thick, you probably
won't want to do this. You'll need to make a nice clean butted
seam.
_________________
/ /|
/ top / |
/----------------/s |
| s | | i |
| i | | d |
| d | | e |
| e |___________|___|
| / / | /
| / bot/tom | /
|/______/_______|/
^
seam
I have never done Marshall cabinets before. I am not too familiar
with how the back is designed, but it seems to me that most of the
Marshall cabs I have seem have been closed back, with the back
permanently attached to the shell. In this case, Gregs idea would work.
I would probably do it a little differant. In any case, I would have
to see the cabinet to decide how to go about it. On closed back Fender
cabs the back is a separate piece attached to the shell with lots of
phillips head screws with backing washers. The speaker baffle is
attached to the shell from the inside with wood screws, and the back
is closed up last.
More later, gotta run to a meeting.
Mark
|
1553.8 | | ASAHI::COOPER | Slippery is where it's at ! | Wed Nov 15 1989 10:18 | 11 |
| I'm looking forward to trying it out. I appreciate you guys taking
the time to input your ideas and suggestions. I'll let you know
how it comes out !
BTW - RE: Disassembly...No can do. This cab is permanently glued
and screwed. I thought I'd try for a seam in the back and a seam
on the bottom. Skids and corners will cover up my botches (I'm
sure there will be some. I'm usually in a rush to get things done
ya know ? No patience...But I'm trying with this project.
jc
|
1553.9 | Some other thoughts | CSC32::MOLLER | Nightmare on Sesame Street | Wed Nov 15 1989 15:54 | 57 |
| Actually, if the cabinets have not been painted, or don't have
some other type of covering already on them (for example, you just
made your own cabinets out of plywood), you can use Elmers Wood
glue (you'll use a lot of it) to hold the ozite to the wood. I use
lots of staples to hold things until the glue drys.
When you cover with this, you have to allow 1/8 inch for each part
that presses against another part. For example, if the back is
detachable, and it will also be covered, reduce the size of the
back board by 1/4 in in each direction (since there will be edges that
have to fit into each other). Also, make sure that you recess your
braces by 1/8 inch so that the back panel lines up with the sides.
On the front board (where you might be using grill cloth, or expanded
steel), you need to also trim down the front panel to match, however,
since you are not pressing an ozite carpeted piece into another ozite
carpeted piece, make the front panel only 1/8 inch narrower (rather
than the 1/4 in narrower for the back).
You need to round the edges, the amount depends on what kind of corners
that you plan to use. I suggest that you buy the corners first, so
you don't get surprized later when you can't find some that match
what you did to the edges. If you are putting corners that have
very straight angles on them, only round the cabinet angles very
slightly (heavy grit sand paper should do it for you, possibly
a rough wood file to do the initial work). If you edges are highly
rounded (like those on many cabinets, & you are using Peavey large
corners), use a router with a blade that cuts about 1/2 inch curves:
||
____||____ The router bit sort of looks like this (I can't
|__ __| get the ASCII text to reflect the curves right).
\ /
||
Make sure that there are no nails near these edges, otherwise you
won't like the nasty results.
Use spackling compound anywhere that you need to to get a fairly
smooth edge (it doesn't have to be perfect).
If you plan on making cabinets, make sure that you recess the front
board (where the speakers are attacted) by about 1 inch for front
mounted speakers, and 1/4 inch for rear mounted speakers. This allows
you to put on grill cloth/steel mesh covering that should be moderately
protected.
Keep these recesses in mind when you design your cabinets, as the
inside dimensions are important (if you have the Radio Shack / JBL /
or other speaker design plans/guides), and you need to stick to those.
I sugesst 5/8 inch plywood, as you will end up with 3/4 inch corner
dimensions & that will fit the 3/4 inch hardware that is often
available on the market.
Jens
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1553.10 | I know of a mail order place . . . | ASHBY::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Tue Nov 28 1989 07:33 | 6 |
| I have a catalog from some place that sells all kind of supplies for
building speaker cabinets, road cases, etc., including tolex, the
carpeting you're looking for (in black, too), and hardware like
corners, marshall-style handles, etc. I know I listed the address
either in this conference, or in MUSIC, but I'll try to find tthe
catalog tonight.
|
1553.11 | Here it is . . . | ASHBY::BEFUMO | Knowledge perishes . . . understanding endures | Tue Nov 28 1989 07:36 | 2 |
| I just checked - the place is Penn Fabrication, and I listed their
addresses in this conference - note # 904.
|
1553.12 | I should can the Marshall logo though... | ASAHI::COOPER | In pumps life that I must feel | Tue Nov 28 1989 10:19 | 22 |
| Thanks guy!
Quick update... Kinda ran out of time and motivation, so I painted
them black, wired them up, put the grilles on and Vrooom ! They
look okay...I DO want to cover them when I have some time, but band
business is starting to pick up and it's keeping me busy.
I loaded the cabs (each) with (1) Peavy Scorpian-plus 12" and
(1) PAS 12". Wired in parallel (4ohms), covered my homemade grills
(thanks for the tips Scary!) with black speaker covering stuff from
Radio Shack, and tacked on those silly Marshall logos (courtesy
of The Music Nook {or whatever it's called} in Acton and plugged
'em in.
I love 'em ! Plenty of bass response, power handling in excess of
300watts, light, portable and not too bad to look at (better with
covering though).
I'll at least order the stuff. Once it arrives, I'm sure I'll get
motivated. You know how it is. Thanks for the pointers !
jc
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1553.13 | Help Cab Building... | DNEAST::GREVE_STEVE | If all else fails, take a nap... | Thu Mar 08 1990 11:24 | 14 |
|
I'm thinking about building and extension cab for my amp.... I
don't need it, I just don't have anything to keep me busy lately. What
should I use for a single twelve unit?? Plywood??? Re-inforced??
How would you guys finish it?? Paint, Stain? Carpet? Fabric??? How
much ought it cost?? What speaker would you advize for use with my
super 60 and playing style (aged, hippy, novice, lover of Clapton, SRV
etc.)?? Would a 2-12 cab be better??? Huh?? Huh???
Steve
|
1553.14 | | TCC::COOPER | MIDI-Kitty-ADA-Metaltronix rack puke | Thu Mar 08 1990 11:29 | 8 |
| Angled front... Plywood 2x12 (like the ADA units) are neat... Cover with Ozite
so nobody will see any woodworking blunders (I blunder :)
Expanded Steel speaker covers ala Boogie are neeto too.
jc (WHo needs to build some more 2x12s !
j
|
1553.15 | | DNEAST::BOTTOM_DAVID | Nice computers don't go down | Thu Mar 08 1990 12:08 | 4 |
| Steve come see me I've got plans for cabs, and a nice catalog of cab hardware
dbii
|
1553.16 | | DNEAST::GREVE_STEVE | If all else fails, take a nap... | Fri Mar 09 1990 08:50 | 4 |
|
jc, what's this ozite stuff?? Is it the black carpet stuff??
|
1553.17 | | TCC::COOPER | MIDI-Kitty-ADA-Metaltronix rack puke | Fri Mar 09 1990 09:19 | 2 |
| Yeah, yeah... The black or grey fuzzy stuff. Looks like chest hair ;)
jc
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1553.18 | I forgot who sells the stuff | RAVEN1::BLAIR | I toad you once, I toad you twice | Fri Mar 09 1990 10:28 | 6 |
|
I know it been mentioned before, but where can you buy ozite or tolex?
A pointer to another note will be fine and dandy.
Thanks,
-pat
|
1553.19 | | DNEAST::BOTTOM_DAVID | Nice computers don't go down | Fri Mar 09 1990 11:13 | 3 |
| Penn Fabrication....
dbii
|
1553.20 | Another source | CSC32::MOLLER | Nightmare on Sesame Street | Fri Mar 09 1990 12:17 | 12 |
| Ozite is nothing more than INDOOR/OUTDOOR CARPET. You can often
find this at hardware stores and carpet stores. It is, however,
a seasonal product at those stores, so they probably won't have
any in the winter time.
Blue, Grey and Black look ok. Red and Green look horrible.
The stuff can't take too sharp of a bend when you glue it on,
so round all edges a little bit before gluing and stapling.
It will tear if not careful about these sharp edges.
Jens
|
1553.21 | | TCC::COOPER | MIDI-Kitty-ADA-Metaltronix rack puke | Fri Mar 09 1990 13:26 | 9 |
| Pat,
I haven't gone looking yet...Lets do lunch, and we'll find some...
I still wanna cover my Marshall cabs with Ozite...Which btw, comes
in different thicknesses...I would think the thinner the stuff is,
the easier it will be to tack/glue on... Wanna get together and
try it this weekend ??
jc
|
1553.22 | | DNEAST::GREVE_STEVE | If all else fails, take a nap... | Mon Mar 12 1990 15:06 | 5 |
|
Oh No, it's winter time here in Maine ALL THE TIME!!!! I may never
find the stuff!!!
|
1553.23 | | CSC32::G_HOUSE | Fearless | Mon Mar 12 1990 15:53 | 1 |
| There's always mail order, Steve...
|
1553.24 | Try a Thiele alignment plus an EVM | CIMAMT::KELLY | Feelin' a little edgy | Mon Mar 19 1990 13:22 | 33 |
| ElectroVoice will give you plans for a single 12 enclosure that's
got a Thiele alignment for the EVM-12. They've also got plans for a
15 enclosure and an 18(!) enclosure. I've built about a dozen of the
15's and a half-dozen 12's. The construction is 3/4 plywood with 3/4
x 2-1/2 fir 'stiffening' frame. There's a tunable port: you can change
the corner frequency of the low end by removing the port cover.
I've covered a number of 'em with Ozite...the grey flavor. It's not
that easy to work with; you need glue and staples. Also, every cabinet
I built had radiused edges, which helps the Ozite a little. The
majority of cabinets I built were finished with polyurethane and metal
corners.
A friend tried loading two cabinets I built with JBL SRO's...they
sounded 'fine', in a very subjective measurement. The point is, I
can't vouch for the performance of the cabinets with a non-EV speaker,
but my friend thinks his JBL's sound great.
One of the best features is modularity: want two, four, or eight speakers?
Wire the cabinets with two jacks and just pay attention to the load
presented to the amp. Some gigs, I played with a single 12. Other
gigs, I'd play with a 15 on my side of the stage and a 12 on the
other side, so the other guitar player could hear what I was playing.
I've got a couple of 15's at my house; you could come over for a listen
if you'd like.
Regards,
John Kelly
|
1553.26 | | KDX200::COOPER | Revolution calling! | Tue Jun 28 1994 16:37 | 9 |
| Hey!
Anyone know how to REMOVE beat up old tolex??
I recently picked up a Yamaha Electric Baby Grand that could use
some pretty-ing up. Whats an easy way to remove the old stuff??
jc
|
1553.27 | | JUPITR::DERRICOJ | Doppler Car-Horn Junkie | Tue Jun 28 1994 22:11 | 8 |
|
How about acetone or a paint removing heat gun???
kLeM
|
1553.28 | | GOES11::HOUSE | How could I have been so blind? | Wed Jun 29 1994 11:53 | 4 |
| The one cab that I did, the tolex just peeled off once I got it
started. It's just some sort of simple glue.
Greg
|
1553.29 | | SSDEVO::LAMBERT | I made life easy just by laughing | Wed Jun 29 1994 12:32 | 5 |
| Yeah, on the 2x12s I got from you (Coop), the snakeskin tolex pulled right
off. Of course, it was loose in a couple of places.
-- Sam
|
1553.30 | | KDX200::COOPER | Revolution calling! | Wed Jun 29 1994 13:47 | 6 |
| Bye-bye snakeskin... :-(
:-)
Anyhow, I'm just curious - I don't even know what I want to do with
this thing yet. Keep it? Sell it?? Burn it??? :-)
|
1553.31 | just a hint | GOES11::HOUSE | How could I have been so blind? | Wed Jun 29 1994 14:27 | 1 |
| ...give it to Greg...
|
1553.32 | | KDX200::COOPER | Revolution calling! | Fri Jul 01 1994 11:10 | 3 |
| GIVE it hmm??
:-)
|
1553.33 | | GOES11::HOUSE | How could I have been so blind? | Tue Jul 05 1994 12:06 | 14 |
| You are getting very..very....sleeeeeeeepy....
...give it to Greg...
Your eyes can hardly stay oooooopen....
...give it to Greg...
You feeel very geeeeeenerous...
...give it to Greg...
When I snap my fingers, you'll pick up the phone and call him with the
news. Snap.
|
1553.34 | ;') | POWDML::BUCKLEY | Venimus, Vidimus, Coastimus | Tue Jul 05 1994 13:42 | 3 |
| "Hello, Greg? You'll never guess what...I am giving up the guitar
to take up the pan flute. Will you take all of my gear from me??"
|
1553.35 | | KDX200::COOPER | Revolution calling! | Tue Jul 05 1994 13:49 | 6 |
| I AM getting sleepy. Yawn.
:-)
Greg - I'll trade ya for some studio goodies...
:-)
|