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Conference napalm::guitar

Title:GUITARnotes - Where Every Note has Emotion
Notice:Discussion of the finer stringed instruments
Moderator:KDX200::COOPER
Created:Thu Aug 14 1986
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:3280
Total number of notes:61432

481.0. "Torsion rod replacement" by CCYLON::ANDERSON () Tue Jan 26 1988 16:40

    Has anyone tried or have any ideas on how to replace the torsion
    rod in a guitar neck. Availability of parts??? I know this sounds
    like loads of fun... But it may be an interesting exercise...
    
    Thanks
    
    Jim
    
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
481.1RANGLY::BOTTOM_DAVIDFeats don't fail me nowWed Jan 27 1988 07:564
    Try Stewart McDonald's for the parts. Most of them just screw on
    and off...
    
    dbII
481.2Truss rod ??PLDVAX::JACQUESWed Jan 27 1988 08:454
    You do mean "Truss rod", don't you ?
    Torsion rods go on 32 Model A roadsters.
    
    Mark J.
481.3More TrussesBARTLS::MOLLERThu Feb 11 1988 14:5543
    That could be real difficult to do. I've made repairs to guitars
    with broken rods in them, and you often have to remove the fret
    board (or on some Fender type necks) router out a section of the
    neck & plan on rebuilding what you took out. I have may father make
    up a very hard replacement rod (I don't recall the hardness number
    for the stainless steel rod) & tap it at both ends. This would cost
    quite a bit if you had to hire a shop to do this (my father has
    the shop equipment to handle this & he is a mechanical engineer).
    
    Some truss rods slide out, Micheal Gurian (used to be in Keene NH)
    used to make these (I still have a few) that he put into his guitars.
    You'll find similar ones in Warmoth Necks & lots of other guitars.
    These come out fairly easy & can be replaced if you can get the
    neck off of the guitar (some times you can leave it on). His method
    was to take a rod, tap one end, fold it over so that the tapped
    end and the untapped end wer next to each other, then weld a small
    block to the untapped end that had a hole in it for the tapped end.
    The tapped end took a bolt & by tightening the bolt, you would
    pull on half of the rod, while the other half remained the same
    length. Great design. You'll find out how good of a job the
    manufacturer did at gluing the fret board on, as these can exert
    a substantial amount of pressure in the fret board. Usually, to
    use this type of truss rod, all you needed to do was to router a
    1/4 inch slot in the neck where you wanted the truss rod to go,
    about 1/2 inch deep, then glue the fret board over top of the
    routered slot. Then finish the neck. Once assembled, you could
    putz around with the truss rod until it was shaped exactly to
    your liking, then slide it into the neck. 
    
    Martin uses (or at least used to use) a 1/2 inch square steel tube
    that is simply glued into the neck, under the fret board. As long
    as it's straight, it should last forever. I don't hear many complaints
    about old Martin necks, so this 'LOW-TECH' solution must not be
    too bad. It also adds mass to the neck & this should give you better
    sustain. You can buy 1/2 square steel tubing at many hardware stores
    very cheaply.
    
    I use a homemade variation of Michael Gurians truss rod. Then again,
    I have an Arc Welder, Acetelyne Torch & a drill press in my shop.
    The advantage That I have Is that I can make the rods any length
    that I want for the custom guitars that I build.
    
    							Jens Moller