Conference hydra::amiga_v1

    I noticed the trashcan problem, but I don't use WB much, so it doesn't
    bother me.  My only other problem (so far) has been with the
    battery-backed-up clock.  It seems to gain about 3 minutes per day.
    I've asked Memory Location to adjust it--I'll check tonight to
    see if they succeeded.
        John Sauter

    re: .1
    my clock seems to gain about 2 minutes per day.  I just ordered
    the A500/2000 tech ref mentioned on usenet, hopefully it has how
    to adjust the clock and what jumper makes the external 3.5" drive
    DF1: instead of DF2:.  Info that should have been in the user manual.
    
    -Dave

Re: .2

	According to people from Commodore, there is no jumper to make the
external drive df1:, instead of df2:.  Your best bet is to use AssignDev on
one of the Fish disks.

Mark

Re: .2, .3

I think that the rumor about the jumper got started because in the
update to the Amiga 2000 manual, a jumper is listed controlling whether
there is a second internal drive.  (The manual update is the two or three
sheets of 8.5 by 11 paper tucked into the manual.)

The jumper is shipped in the position that indicates there is no second
internal drive.  Thus, I believe the folks at Commodore when they say
there is no jumper to make the external drive DF1:

By the way, my clock gains two to three minutes a day, too.  I find
this strange in this age of $5 quartz watches accurate to a minute
a month.

    maybe this sheds some light...
    
    
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Path: decwrl!nsc!amdahl!kim
Subject: Re: The time (my watch has troubles) has come ...
Posted: 19 Oct 87 08:34:06 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation,  Sunnyvale, CA 94086
 
 
[ Some days you eat the line ... some days the line eat's you ... ]
 
In an earlier posting, I mentioned that both the timer and RTC in my B2000
were overly inaccurate.  After making the posting (naturally), I remembered
that there were schematics in the back of the manual, and although they are
for the A2000 (?), I decided to take a look.
 
Sure enough, they showed a jumper going to one of the 8520 timer chips, and
a small variable cap in the oscillator feeding the Oki 6242B clock/calendar
chip.  Also, the Manual Update sheets said that the J300 jumper was used to
select the time-base for the 8520 between the line-driven TICK signal (50/60
Hz), or the vertical sync pulse for the video section.  The default position
of the jumper is *supposed* to be the TICK signal.  Since this description
agreed with the schematic, I decided to open the box up for a look.
 
Naturally, the J300 jumper is underneath the power supply, but the sub-frame
holding it and the drives comes out easily ... just 6 screws, and a couple of
connectors (thanks!)
 
Yep ... the jumper was between pins 2 and 3 rather than the pictured default
between pins 1 and 2!  So the timer chip had been getting popped at the
vertical sync rate, rather than being locked to the line frequency.  No big
deal, just swap the jumper.  Now the question is ... why would one want to
drive the timer from the vertical sync, rather than from the line?  Maybe
for use in areas with ill-controlled power?
 
 
And there was indeed a small trimmer cap near the Oki chip (just in front of
the 86-pin coprocessor slot).  No markings to tell which way to go, but it's
a 50-50 shot ... I tweaked it a hair CCW (is that the correct way to turn it
to slow it down, Dave?)  We'll see ...
 
BTW, it would be nice if the RTC were locked to the line freq. when the machine
is plugged in (or at least is powered on), and switched to using the xtal
oscillator only for battery backup, but I guess that'd be too expensive.
 
Anyway, if your clock(s) aren't keeping the right time, and particularly
if the timer driven system clock is running about 0.3% slow, you now have
a couple of things to check out.
 
/kim
 

    The Memory Location told my wife that everyone is having trouble
    with the clock, even their own machine.  There is no adjustment
    prescribed for clock problems, so they have sent an inquiry to
    Commodore.  825.5 looks like a good idea, but I'd rather let the
    dealer do it, to avoid any suggestion that I've violated the
    warranty conditions.  I'll be taking the system back in after
    a while anyway, so he can do whatever Commodore suggests then.
    
    (Anyhow, with my level of competence I'd probably break something.)
        John Sauter

I've had my 2000 for about 15 days, and the clock is now reading about a minute
and a half ahead of my watch (from which I set it).  So mine seems to be better
than some others, but not great.  (Or else my watch is bad.) 

	Paul

    I don't have an A2000, but I do have a RTC in my Supra Hard Drive.
    My clock gains about 5 seconds a day.  My Amiga gains about 2 minutes
    a day.
    
    When I leave my machine on for long periods of time, I will adjust
    the Amiga time by invoking the ReadClock program every day or so.
    
    The reason my Amiga's metabolism is faster then others is because
    the 60Hz in Acton, MA. is probably 60.033Hz.
    
    	--MIke
    

Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Path: decwrl!labrea!jade!ucbcad!ames!hao!gatech!mcnc!rutgers!cbmvax!andy
Subject: Re: Problems with the Real Time Clock on my Amiga 2000
Posted: 27 Oct 87 15:48:09 GMT
Organization: Commodore Technology, West Chester, PA
 
In article <[email protected]> [email protected] (Michael Nowak) writes:
>I recently traded my Amiga 1000 for an Amiga 2000 and I've noticed a real
>problem with my Real Time Clock:  I set it by using date and setclock but
>when I reload it in the startup-sequence (about every day), it seems to gain
>about 10 minutes!
 
The RTC is adjustable.  C912 (on the main board) can be used as a slow/fast 
control to tune the clock to greater accuracy.
 
-- 
andy finkel		{ihnp4|seismo|allegra}!cbmvax!andy 
Commodore-Amiga, Inc.
 
"Interfere?  Of course we'll interfere.  Always do what you're best at,
 I always say."
 
Any expressed opinions are mine; but feel free to share.
I disclaim all responsibilities, all shapes, all sizes, all colors.

	I got my 2000 on Friday, and was away for the weekend, so I don't have
much experience with it.  There are many nice things about it.  There are, of
course, things which don't thrill me, and since this is a note on problems,
it is those that will get attention.  Please note, however, that overall, I'm
very pleased with the machine.  Now, the problems...

o  Return Key:  I've got one of the 'new' 2000 keyboards (with the wide
   function keys, and the chicken-head instead of the left-Amiga key), and
   overall, I'm very pleased with the feel of the keyboard.  The Return Key
   seems to be the weak link, though.  If I press on the right edge of the
   key, it doesn't depress.  It seems that the switch for the key is on the
   left side, and pressing on the right just causes the switch to jam.  I
   'spose I'll be able to train myself to only use the left side of the key
   (left of the vertical portion of the arrow is okay) but I think I should
   be able to use the whole key.  Are the 'old' A2000 keyboards this way?

o  Boulder Dash!:  I never got far with this on my A1000 (I 'spect it would
   run out of memory, and then hang).  Friday night, I had this working on
   the 2000 (honest!), but can't get it to work now.  I've tried everything
   I can think of, to no avail.  (I've run NoFastMem [even though I'm sure
   I didn't do that Friday], I've disabled PopCLI, I've booted off a virgin
   copy of workbench...)  I comes up to the menu screen, and is fine until
   I select "start game".  It then does nothing until I click the menu button,
   at which point it gurus.

o  Silent Service:  Okay, this is the weirdest one yet.  The game boots up
   fine, and the mouse pointer is in the upper left of the screen where you'd
   expect.  You can move the mouse pointer around by moving the mouse.  When
   you stop moving the mouse, the mouse pointer floats to the top of the screen.
   So far, I've only seen it do this with this game, so I doubt that it's a
   problem with the mouse.  This happens both with the original disk, and a
   copy.  I didn't try anything beyond this, as the game would be a bit awkward
   if I had to keep dragging the mouse down to the gadget I wanted.

	Any clues?

Mark

    Re:  Problems with BoulderDash
    
    Make sure that the startup-sequence for BoulderDash doesn't end
    the original CLI window.  It must stay open, or BDash will Guru.
    You cannot run BDash from the Workbench.
    
    Re:  Other problems...
    
    There have been numerous messages on PLINK regarding some problems
    with the new, improved A2000 keyboard.  Specifically, the first
    several keystrokes after booting aren't recognized.  Something about
    a timing problem in the new keyboard.  CBM is sending out a service
    bulletin to dealers detailing a fix that involves snipping a capacitor
    or two.  See your dealer.
    
    I imagine that the keyboard problem is affecting the timing of some
    other games also.

    With PopCli on the 2000, I've only been able to get the new CLI
    to pop up sporadically or not at all. The screen blanker works fine
    though. Does someone have a copy that is known to work on the 2000
    that I could download?
    
       mitch

    re: .11
    
    has there been anything on Plink about exactly why Barbarian and
    other Psynosis games can't read the old A2000 keyboard?
    
    I've heard claims:
    o that they read the hardware directly, hardware location moved
      on A2000 
    o they read the hardware in a tight loop, A2000 keyboard isn't
      sending keypresses fast enough
    
    Any rumors of a fix, hardware or software?  Does the "new" A2000
    keyboard fix this problem?
    
    -dave

	Okay, I think I can answer all my questions now.

>o  Return Key:

	I'm told there is an easy fix for this which involves opening the
keyboard and re-setting a piece of plastic.  One day, RSN, I'll get around
to trying it.

>o  Boulder Dash!:

	This is now working fine.  I don't know what was going on before.  I
had been leaving the initial CLI running.

>o  Silent Service:

	This was a problem with my machine.  It seems the joystick port was
always indicating that the joystick was being pushed forward, even with no
joystick plugged in.  I called the dealer (Family Computer), and they told
me to send it back, and they'd send me a brand new one.  I had it within a
week, and everything is fine.

Mark