T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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341.1 | Try DIY | BAHTAT::SALLITT | a legend in his lunchtime | Thu Jan 30 1992 11:15 | 3 |
| Why not make your own? That's where the *real* bargains are.
Dave
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341.2 | I agree | LARVAE::IVES_J | Bad Karma in the UK | Thu Jan 30 1992 16:30 | 15 |
| re .1
absolutely, though often I've found that really interesting wire has to
be bought in prohibitously long lengths. In the STC catalogue they sell
silver plated copper wire, single strand, with PTFE insulation. Sounds
good, but you need to buy a 100m length for �40.00. My point about the
Tandy cables is that it would be fairly hard to undercut that price,
the gold phonos alone probably account for �3.00 of the total.
I guess if we were really organised we should club together for this
kind of thing - a UK_AUDIO collectors club. we could bring out our own
black metal brick, call it a strange name, say Jitter-bug and charge
each other �35 :-) the possibilities are endless.
how about Green Blue-Tak ?
|
341.3 | I'm game for a joint project.... | BAHTAT::SALLITT | a legend in his lunchtime | Thu Jan 30 1992 17:15 | 19 |
| re .2
One of the problems with"interesting" wire is that it is often
system-dependant. So if several people clubbed together to buy a 100m
length, once it's made up there is an even chance half of the people
will think it's differing degrees of wonderful, and the other half will
think the opposite.
Having said that, I'd be interested in some sort of joint project on
cables. Participants could make up cables using connectors of their
choice, audition them in their own systems, then post the results in
here. It would be neat if the group had a variety of cables, so that
members could swap with each other (assuming similar terminations),
again comparing results in here but on different systems.
There would probably have to be some agreement on the language used to
describe changes (see Jim Lawrence's GLASS topic in the US audio
conference), otherwise we could have some almighty punch-ups!
Dave
|
341.4 | | LARVAE::IVES_J | Bad Karma in the UK | Mon Feb 10 1992 10:38 | 17 |
| Ok here goes.
With stuff from my garage I've made up 2 stereo pairs of cables.
Same materials, one 1/2m the other 1/3m.
They are gold phono to phono, with twisted pair silver-plated copper
conductors (7/0.2 mm) and insulated with PTFE.
Similar configuration cables can can cost #15.00 and upward (Sonic
Link, Audio Design ). they cost me considerably less than that to make
, though I had to buy 25m of the cable for another project.
I've listened to them , but would be "interested" if anyone else wants
to give em a try. I'll then post my thoughts and we can take it from
there.
|
341.5 | | LARVAE::IVES_J | Bad Karma in the UK | Wed Jun 24 1992 15:21 | 10 |
| I needed a set of extra interconnecdts to add a cassette deck, so I
took the plunge and bought a set of TANDY 5.99 patch leads (3ft
phono-to-phono). They use gold phono plugs and seem well built.. They
appear to be some form of coax, difficult to tell as when you remove
the case of the phono all the insides is encased in clear plastic.
I've use them from CD player to passive pot to amp (2nd set) and the
results are good. Similar to the leads I made out of low capacitance
coax, but quieter as well. I'd reccomend them. I ca'nt help but feel
that more than �10 for a set of interconnects is a ripoff
|
341.6 | | FORTY2::SHIPMAN | MOG | Wed Jun 24 1992 17:29 | 17 |
| > I ca'nt help but feel
> that more than �10 for a set of interconnects is a ripoff
Before you decide that, try out a pair of DNM interconnects. �25 or so but you
can also buy the wire off the reel and stick on your own phonos; that'll cost a
lot less if you use cheapo connectors. You might be surprised.
The wire is an unshielded spaced (not twisted) solid-core nickel-plated pair.
It looks like a small version of 300-ohm balanced downlead; about 8mm between
conductors. It has a great midrange and treble but I'm told it's not so good
for bass weight. I wouldn't know, I use SL600s. I've tried interconnects
many times the price that I find far inferior. In fact I haven't found one I
prefer at any price, but then I haven't really been looking.
For obvious reasons you can only use it for line-level, not phono, inputs.
Nick
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341.7 | | FORTY2::SHIPMAN | MOG | Wed Jun 24 1992 17:32 | 5 |
| Forgot to say: being unshielded, they can get a bit noisy between a passive
pot and an amp. When I tried this configuration I found the noise depended on
the setting of the pot; usually quite quiet but sometimes a bit intrusive.
Nick
|
341.8 | Kimber fan | WOTVAX::MEAKINS | Clive Meakins | Fri Jun 26 1992 14:18 | 40 |
| I've tried loads of interconnects (speaker cables too) and I'm rather
disillusioned with expensive cables, but I do find that something just
a bit special does make a very worth while difference.
My gripe with the expensive cables is that they can sound great in a
system, but change a single component and you may need to change all
the cables. So, for me they tune the system too finely.
I've recently used Kimber TC to internally wire my stepped attenuator
and TC based Kimber PSB interconnect. The intereconnect costs around
�10 per metre (unterminated) and the straight TC around �2 per metre.
The stepped attenuator was done first, replacing the temporary basic
hook-up wire. The effect was to open us the HF and significantly
spread the soundstage, by this I mean rather than having music left and
right with vocal in the centre, the music was now very well distributed
between the speakers. I was surprised at the amount of improvement.
Next I made up two sets of PSB interconnects. Now came a very open mid
range, with ability to distinctly hear quiet notes while loud one were
playing. Overall there was far more detail, this was not due to the HF
being artificially "juiced up". In fact the HF is well extended, in
balance with other frequencies and very smooth (I'm very sensitive to
course treble, so believe me). My previous interconnect was simply
Linn phono cable which was good, it out performed Van Den Hul 102,
Deltec Black Slink and DNM. Though I have to say that the DNM comes
closest to Kimber, though Kimber is better all round and far better in
the bass (it has some, the DNM doesn't).
Now I know why some people rave about Kimber cable, for �30 I've
really got so much more out of my system, the sort of difference you'd
expect from spending an extra grand or two on the front end!
Don't expect cables to magically turn any system into a winner, but if
there's that bit more performance to be had, it may make the difference.
I also admit to being afan of have the same cable inside the equipment
as externally. I've done this with the power amp outputs having
speaker cable going from the pcb to the binding posts. Since I've done
this I've been told that differing cables can cause reflections at the
cable junctions, though what happens in a cable-phono-cable junction of
even the same type of cable, I don't pretend to know.
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