Conference hips::uk_audioo

    Yes it is a very good idea to do this. There is some special
    ``shielded'' mains cable you can get from Chris Brooks Audio
    [[ (0925) 61212 - (Open Tue -> Sat) -- Yes I know another Ad. and no I
    don't have shares. ]] or MK I think.
    
    Apart from the cable use MK 15 Amp unfused round plugs. The sort you
    find in 1960's houses. These are available from MK (and I'm sure Chris will
    sell you some). Don't bother with the gold plated stuff I don't think
    its worth it...
    
    Everthing should be on this spur even your Lingo'ed deck.
    
    	Rik
    
    I haven't done this my self as I guess the wife would find it suitable
    grounds for divorce - If 'briks wern't

Re .1

Why use MK 15A round plugs. In what way are they better than the
normal, modern (!) type?

>>    Everthing should be on this spur even your Lingo'ed deck.

But surely the power amp should have a different feed from the deck
and preamp because of the vastly different power requirements. BTW,
my deck isn't lingo'ed, yet...

This shielded mains cable, do you mean cable between the socket and
the hifi item, or between the socket and the fusebox. If the latter
I should think the installation cost will be very expensive.

Where is Chris Brooks Audio?

>>    I haven't done this my self as I guess the wife would find it suitable
>>    grounds for divorce - If 'briks wern't

Why don't you install it when your wife is out and when she comes
back you could tell her you've installed a socket which is nearer
the hifi 'so you can tidy up some of those dangling cables'.

    > Where is Chris Brooks Audio?
    
    29 - Gaskell St, 
    Stockton Heath, 
    Warrington, Cheshire.
    
    

    The 15A plugs are UNFUSED, make a better connection and of a higher
    current carrying ability - you can hear the difference.

    The cable unfortunately if between the fusebox and the socket and is
    hence and bit expensive - though you may be able to use it between the
    plug and whatever, I don't know.

    Care of the bl**dy stupid way they build new houses I would be required
    to chip through a concrete floor to lay new cable - ah'well.

    As for not getting your deck lingo'ed yet, go out, wander round to your
    mothers house, and sell her :-) But seriously, it is a massive
    improvement.

    	Rik

    PS Chris also has a shop in Stockport run by Graham

    	10-12 Oak Street
    	Hazel Grove,
    	Stockport

    	(061) 419 9050

    If you don't live in the North West, and do live near Fleet (Hampshire
    / Surrey border) pop round one evening I you want to compare decks.

>>    Care of the bl**dy stupid way they build new houses I would be required
>>    to chip through a concrete floor to lay new cable - ah'well.

You surprise me. I live in a house that's only five years old, and all
cables come from the garage into the space between the two floors. All
cables to sockets either drop down to the ground floor or go up to the
first floor. There are no cables at all in the concrete floor.

>>    As for not getting your deck lingo'ed yet, go out, wander round to your
>>    mothers house, and sell her :-) But seriously, it is a massive
>>    improvement.


Yes I know. I had a demo a couple of months back at Farnborough Hifi.
LP12/lingo/Akito/K18/Naff stand piled high with records against 
LP12/valhalla/Ittok/K18/Good stand. The lingo version knocked the socks
off the other. It's the next thing on my shopping list, but I've just
bought a Troika and have no pocket money left. I was hoping for one
for Christmas, but I got a shirt instead. (I can't sell my mother,
she already went in part exchange for the Troika).

Neither of the Chris Brooks shops are remotely convenient for me
so it looks like Farnborough Hifi are still stuck with me.

I do live near Fleet, in Hook to be precise, and would be interested
in hearing your setup sometime.

Steve.

    >The 15A plugs are UNFUSED, make a better connection and of a higher
                       ^^^^^^^
    
    a)  How safe is this?
    
    b)  Exactly what difference is the lack of a fuse supposed to make?
    
    At least we're in agreement that gold plated plugs/sockets are a waste
    of money!
    
    Mat.
    *:o)
    

    The unfused'ness of the plug quite OK as all your equipment should be
    fused internally to the correct amp'age. I'm not sure wat difference
    the lack of fuse makes. I think the 15A plugs sound better mainly
    because they offer a better elecrical connection.
    
    	Rik

I thought that the 15A round pin sockets were fused at the mains supply box


re. lack of fused plug...
this could make a small improvement since a 15amp fuse would be fitted rather
than a 13amp (as in conventional plugs)...

(a 15 A fuse having lower resistance than a 13 A fuse)

the bit about better electrical connection would depend on the design of the
plug & socket




...art

    Why not having a 13A fuse in a plug sounds better, when the equipment is
    internally fused at around 1A beats me; it shouldn't work, but it does. 
    There's obviously more than Ohm's Law to this audio business....
    
    If you don't want the upheaval a dedicated spur requires, try the
    following - BUT ONLY IF YOU FEEL COMPETENT TO DO ELECTRICAL WORK, AND
    AFTER SWITCHING OFF AT THE MAINS INPUT.....
    
    1. Go round all the outlets on the same ring as the hifi, ensuring the
    wires are screwed in *tight*; do the same with the screws on the fuse
    and fuse holder in the consumer box for that circuit
    
    2. Ensure the ground connection on the supply side (usually to a metal
    tube around the cable just before it enters the meter) is clean and
    tight - if it isn't tight, beware, you *could* have a faulty appliance
    in the house somewhere which hasn't blown its dedicated fuse due to the
    poor earth, and the earth wire will be somewhere between 0 and 230
    volts if you haven't switched off at the distribution box; the suspect
    item may blow its fuse when you power up...
    
    3. Take a spur from the back of the nearest 13A socket and connect up a
    15A socket, using the solid cable the industry uses (15A). Cable and
    socket should be secured to skirting board. Wire an appropriate length
    of 16A butyl-covered heat resistant cable to a 15A plug on one end and
    a 30A mains-spur junction box (MK make these, about �3 in B&Q) on the
    other; remove plugs from all hifi components (or at least amplifier
    and primary sources) and hardwire into MK box. A power amp should
    ideally be wired direct to the 15A plug, or a second MK box nearer the
    socket on the original cable.
    
    4. Switch on and enjoy. So far you will have spent about �5-10 (maybe
    more; 16A butyl-covered heat resistant mains cable costs around
    �2/meter) and around two hours.
    
    I don't know why, but the 16A mains cable sounds much better than
    the usual 15A PVC covered stuff, and better than the standard cable
    that comes with most kit. By better I mean clearer, less noisy, with
    more of a sense of "hearing right to the bottom" of a recording. I was
    sufficiently impressed to replace the mains cables on my LK1/280/SPARK
    with it, soldering on new IEC connectors. The conductor is not copper,
    but some white metal that doesn't work-harden/become brittle like the
    usual copper stuff. Unlike lots of so-called mains wonder workers, it
    doesn't cause compression or get in the way of the music in other ways.
    You won't find it at a superstore or Woolies, you'll have to find an
    electrical contractor who also sells stuff retail.
    
    How effective any of this is depends on how good or bad your mains is
    to start with; a powered-up TV, video or PC on same ring could render
    all the above useless in "serious" listening.
    
    Dave
    

>>    sufficiently impressed to replace the mains cables on my LK1/280/SPARK

Dave, how about posting a review of the Spark?

Steve

    re -.1...
    >>Dave, how about posting a review of the Spark?
    
    When I getta da time I will.
    
    Dave

    
    Has anyone had any experience of mains 'cleaners' that cut out the
    interference from other equipment (eg clicks from fridges). I've
    seen one advertised for about �150 but that's much more than I 
    wanted to pay. 
    
    Thanks,
    Richard.

Re -.1

I got a cube-shaped one from QED for around �30.  I originally got it
to clean up a very dirty main supply to a computer, and in my experience
it was very effective.  It changed the computer from being susceptible to
any clicks from the fridge etc to being able to withstand brownouts that
reset all other electical equipment in the building.

Since then I've had the hi-fi plugged into it, with nary a click, clack
or buzz.

Guy

p.s. I can find out the part number if you want.

    
    Thanks, sound much more like my price range!
    
    Richard.

    In the US we've found that devices designed for computers and other
    non-audio devices have either no sonic advantage for audio or in fact
    degrade the sound.  
    
    Power conditioners that are highly regarded here include the Power
    Wedge, Noisetrapper, MIT, Tice.  Power conditioning is becoming a hot
    topic.  The benefits of these devices seems to depend greatly on the
    the quality of the power coming into your house.  People in urban
    areas, apartment houses, and those in the vicinty of radio and TV
    stations or heavy indutrial concerns seem to benefit the most.