| Cramolin can be sourced in the UK via Russ Andrews Components. I don't
know the address/phone no., but it's somewhere in the Lake District. If
I can find it at home tonight I'll enter it tomorrow.
Cramolin's fairly expensive, as I recall. Some amp manufacturers (Naim,
for one) say avoid it, and anything like it, like the plague, as it
leaves a deposit that's hard to remove; they recommend instead just
periodic removal and re-insertion of interconnects. On the other hand,
as you rightly point out, many people in DSSDEV::AUDIO have lots of
success with it. Maybe it depends on how it's used.
Personally I use the the removal/re-insert method on DIN or XLR
connectors, isoprop alcohol (�1 for 10ml in Boots) on phonos, and
T-Cut/Brasso followed by isoprop alcohol on mains and speaker plugs.
That doesn't mean I don't approve of Cramolin et al, I'm just too
lazy/tight-fisted to take the trouble!
Dave
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| I dont get in here very much, so this is a late reply.
I very much like Cramolin as a contact treatment system.
It leaves behind a low mechanical resistance, non-conductive
film which also acts a bit like a lubricant. The film also
is self healing so once a contact is engaged or broken the
film covers back over any exposed conductor, protecting it
from oxidization.
I do recommend that it be used in a solution not to exceed
15% Cramolin with a carrier such as freon TF. I use a 5% solution
myself. If you use too much Cramolin in a small area it tends to
get sticky (the 5% solution helps keep the residual down to
a nearly ideal single molecule film). If it does get gooey
on a contact, flushing with TF will remove the excess, and
any dirt trapped in the Cramolin.
Because it seals the contact against additional oxidation,
it is better than just a cleaner. Because it has a very low
mechanical resistance (the film separates easily to permit
metal-metal contact) and because it migrates it is better
than cleaners with teflon or silicon lube.
I have found it is harmless to components, in fact I coat my
copper circuit boards with it and they to not tarnish even
with no tin plating (and the stuff "heals" after soldering).
It is expensive, but it goes a long way (when properly diluted).
It also restores those noisy volume and balance controls on
older equipment, which can save the price of the Cramolin.
Walt
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