Conference hips::uk_audioo

Re .0
>    I had envisiged glueing in the headshell to the arm. is this a good
>    idea or ought i buy a new arm. I was hoping to avoid the expense
>    that this would involve.

You might get problems later on with contact resistance. 

FWIW. I would'nt do it.
As for improvements have you tried using High Tensile steel hex bolts on the K9
and tighten them hard. Do'nt over do it so much that you distort the body of the
cartridge but I do mean TIGHT! This is the best sound Mod that was suggested to 
me by reputable HiFi mag. I tried it and it worked for my ears.

Regards

    
    If you want to torque up the cartridge bolts, then it may be worth
    getting Reading HiFi to do it. They have a natty torque wrench for
    cartridges, which they used on my REGA when I got my new cartridge.
    This would ensure that you don't overtighten it. They are useful
    in ensuring that your record deck is well set-up. I was told that
    my feet were too tight!, and promptly had them loosened. Difficult
    to tell whether it made a difference, as I got my new cartridge
    as well.
    
    Mark

    re .0....
    How old is your K9? If it's fairly old check the colour of the small
    suspension grommet on the stylus assembly - this was changed from
    black to grey about two years ago and brought some sound improvements.
    
    Go for stainless steel allen head bolts like Linn sell; don't worry
    too much about the cartridge when tightening as the K9 is designed
    to be *tight*, but be careful not to twist the arm bearings too
    hard - better to take the arm off. For correct overhang, the white
    dot on the stylus assembmly should align with the hole at the front
    of the headshell, when viewed vertically from above.
    
    Before reassembly, make sure the the three allen head bolts holding
    the arm collar in place on the deck are *tight*, as tight as you
    can go without deforming the material. Check the arm is parallel
    to the record surface before giving the arm-securing allan bolt
    that final tighten-up. Finally, the small allen head grub screw securing
    the arm cable should be tight, but remember the plug is only plastic.
    If there is any type of P-clip holding the arm cable, make sure
    it tight, after dressing the cable as per Revolver's instructions.
    
    Remove the belt and clean with isoprop alcohol (�1 for 50 ml at
    Boots), likewise the pulley and turntable rim; you may have to "lean"
    pretty hard on these last two to get the old belt residue off, but
    take care not to bend the motor shaft. I don't mean to remove the
    pulley, incidentally....do it in situ.
    
    Make sure the bearing well is lubricated with the right quantity of
    recommended oil; if none is recommended, Mobil or 3-in-1 worked
    well with my old Ariston. Too much oil is better than too little,
    but don't let any overflow get onto the belt/pulley/platter rim!

    Make sure the mains wiring is well connected at each end, and properly
    terminated with a good quality (i.e. MK) plug. You should now have
    your turntable working as well as you can get it without doing anything
    drastic, like spending money! Don't glue the headshell as it will
    compromise your part-exchange price; instead look for a used Basik
    LVX Plus - as this will soon be superceded you should get one at
    a decent price. I don't know the Revolver too well, but my hunch
    is that anything better than a Basik Plus will not perform at its
    best on the Revolver.
    
    If you must spend more, then go for a turntable table or sub-table.
    They may seem like a lot of money until you hear what your Revolver
    sounds like, given the chance.
    
    Let us know how you get on.
    
    Dave