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Jerry;
You might also try the FlyFishing conference - MTBLUE::FLYFISH
I have a 'Cherry Wood' fly rod by Diawa. Might be the same. It is a
GOOD inexpensive rod. It seems to handle well and I, also a rank amateur, can
throw line over 40'. It cost me less than $20.00. Most (all) fly rods have the
rod characteristics printed above the grip (similar to spin/cast rods - 1/8oz
lure, 6-8 lb. test, 7.5').
Fly rods are characterized with the following scheme .......
ll' xx#yy
Where ll' = rod length
see below for 'xx#yy' ................
If you plan to use the rig I highly recommend 'Scientific Angelers' fly
line. It is top quality. The price might scare you ($23.00 and up) but remember
you'll be using the same line for many Many MANY years (a little Armor-All every
once in a while does the trick). The two basic types of fly line are a floating
and a sinking (usually sink-tip where only the first several feet are designed
to sink). I always buy an extra spool for my fly reels and load one with a
floating line (S.A. Air Cell) and one with a sink-tip (S.A. Wet-Tip). Your
best choice if you intend to buy a single line is the floater as you can sink
a streamer fly or other wet flies by adding a couple of small split-shot to
your leader.
Fly line is rated with the following scheme ................
xx#yy
Where xx = weight distribution L = Level; line has no
taper
DT = Double
Taper; line has both
ends tapered and
the front 1/2 of
the line has the
same taper as
the rear 1/2
WF = Weight
Forward; line has both
ends tapered and
the front 1/2 of
the line has a
greater taper
than the rear
1/2
# = Line weight (in ounces) The line weight should match, or
at the most be one ounce higher
than the weight designation for
the rod
yy = Float/Sink indicator F = Floating Line
S = Sinking Line (100%
Sinking)
F/S = Sink Tip Line (Float /
Sink)
You will also need some backing to load onto the spool first as filler.
Any Cod line (50 lb. test ice fishing line) will do. Don't bother with mono-
filament backing as you will seldom 'get into' it and it takes considerably more
to fill the spool.
I ALWAYS use a WF (Weight Forward) line as I find they are the easiest
(by far) to cast. I have never used a full sinking line (I always buy F/S) but
I am told they (full sinking) are much harder to 'pick-up' off the water for
your next cast. A WF (Weight Forward) line is directional; that is it MUST be
loaded onto the spool so that the front 1/2 of the line is the part cast. A DT
(Double Taper) line is non-directional and can be reversed on the spool after
one end has been trimmed back (over many leader changes) and/or abraded (by
rocks, getting stepped on, etc. etc). This is a minor consideration as I am
using a WF line that's in its fourth or fifth year and it's still fine.
The best way to load the reel, although time consuming, is to load it
twice; once 'backwards' (line first - then the backing), then strip it all off
and load it up again the right way (backing then line). This will insure that
there is the proper amount of backing. Backing serves two purposes; one is so
the big ones we all dream about (and I've never caught) can run further than
the 60' or so provided by the fly line, two is to fill up the spool making the
amount of line retrieved per revolution slightly greater. A properly loaded
spool is full to within 1/4 inch of its rim and no more than within 1/8 inch.
The last component (other than the fly) is the leader. Basically this is
the monofiliment between the fly and the fly line. You can tie your own leaders
using various lengths of decreasing diameter/test mono but I prefer to buy the
packaged tapered leaders. I select them solely based on price. All are labeled
with their length and test. I use a 1# or 2# test for dry flies and a 3# or 4#
for wet flies and streamers. The rule of thumb is that the leader should be as
long as the rod. I always use a 7.5 foot leader and after a few fly changes -
break-offs it's usually about a 6 foot. The heavier the fly the shorter /
heavier the leader should be.
Scientific Angelers fly line comes with a great little instruction
booklet that, among other things, shows some of the common knots. I use a
'nail knot' to tie the leader to the fly line, a blood knot if I'm tying
mono-to-mono, and a modified cinch knot to attach the fly. These knots are
best seen and I won't even attempt to describe them in text. The S.A. book-
let also has some real good beginners casting instructions.
My advice for casting would be to forget about power. In spin casting
power is a plus. In fly casting it is a detraction. It's the technique and time-
ing that counts. The one training trick I was taught (at stream side by 'The Old
Timer') is to put your hat under your arm (arm to chest/side): if you drop your
hat you're using too much arm. The cast is primarily in the forearm and wrist.
Waving a fly back and forth in the air several times (false casting) may look
pretty but I've found the most serviceable cast to be the 'roll cast'. Remember
to false cast 30' in front of you you need 30' behind you. Not on my river you
don't!
Hope this 'little' dissertation helps - feel free to send me mail at
WFOOFF::Whittemore_J
Joe Whittemore - From where the Westfield
meets the Westfield
by the Westfield
in Huntington (MA)
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