Conference wahoo::fishing

    I am not trying tobe smart, but how about a downrigger rod? I just
    picked up a new Mitchell Rod. I think it is 8-8� feet with about
    14 guides. I think they go for about 20 bucks or so.
    
    Rich

    RE .0
    
    There's nothing that says you can't use your Eagle Claw, but the
    usual rule of thumb for downriggers is an 8' to 9' rod with some
    sort of level wind reel. My setup is 2 8' Berkley downrigger rods
    with Penn 210 level winds. These setups cost approx $60.00 apiece.
    Just like anything else, there are plenty of brands to choose from,
    it all depends how much you want to spend. I'm not sure, but using
    your spinning outfit on a downrigger may shorten its life somewhat.
    
    						rb

    I fish downriggers all year for Trout and Salmon on Ontario. The
    only choice for me is an 8' "Downrigger" rod with level winders.
    My choice is a Shimano 8'rod and the Penn-210 reel (I have 4 of
    this combo). .2 reply is right on at $60.00 per rig. I have spinning
    rigs I use as backups, but they simply don't hold up over the long
    run like the 8'/level wind combo.
    
    Don

    Lots of guys use spinning rods with 6-8# line in the spring on Ontario
    when the trout are near the top. The longer the better, but be careful
    to set the release light enough to match the line. Did you say these
    downriggers were going on a Bass Boat ? A guide friend of "Lavender
    Jack" and mine uses Noodle rods with 4-6 lb for fish up to 10 lbs
    all the time, and there's a guy named Dave Devolder out of Rochester
    who uses 'em on kings.
     The other guys are right as far as more "safe" applications go.
    
    -The Unsafe at Any Speed Skoal Bandit
     

    I will try to be a little more specific. My bass boat is a 16'
    FLAT bottom Grumann Challenger. I will be trolling using the 
    downriggers at very slow speed in places like Sunapee, Squam, and
    maybe Winnie, NOT lakes like Ontario. All I'm looking for is
    suggestions on SPINNING rods that won't bend in half when I use
    the downriggers, which is why 6'-6'6" length is desired. 
    Let the recommendations continue.
    Thanks,
    Bob"The Stick"
    

    I know I may be out of my 'area of expertise' BUT....
    
    I think there is a reason that those down rigger rods are always
    "bent in half". Also, I believe these blanks are designed especially
    for that. I think the extra flex required might have something to
    do with the 5 + # weight at the end of the downrigger cable.
    
    Bagel  who_had_an_extra_two_cents_
                  

    	I always thought that the downrigger rods were long and bent
    in half so that they would take up more slack when the line was
    released from the ball. Am I wrong?
    
    Paul

    Paul is right. I think there are more than one reason. 
    Realize a fish has hit the lure/bait.
    Set the hook.
    Take up the slack on the release.
      - in fact, maybe most "release" mechanics REQUIRE a bend. 
    Both rods - spinning/downrigger - should be set with as much bend
    as they can take, yet not too hard so as to give false releases.
    Half of the "downrigger" rods used on Winnie are the longest ones
    I own.

    Spinning rods and reels will be fine for where you are fishing.
    You do want a light rod both for the bend on the downrigger and
    because you probably want to use light lines as well.  Longer
    might be better, but I've used 6' light action rods with 6 lb
    test line for years on WInni and it works fine.  I've also
    used a 5 1/2 ft rod with 4 lb line with pretty good success.
    
    The release is the tricky part.  I wish I had some good suggestions,
    but the one I like isn't sold any longer.  Slow trolling will make
    the release even more important.
    
    Good luck,
    Mark
    

    
    re.9
    
    Have you ever tried rubber bands as a release??? The way it,s done
    is to stick the rubber band in your normal release, that way you
    don't have to screw around with the tension. Make sure the rubber
    bands are fairly weak or else you'll be defeating the purpose.BTW,
    what type of releases do you use???
    
    						rb

    Just for the record I should tell you that I have never fished using
    downriggers. Last year when I was fishing at Squam for Mr. Bass
    my brother suggested trolling for Lakers, but alas we had no
    downriggers to get our bait deep. This will be a new experience
    for me and I can hardly wait!!!
    
    Bob "The Stick"
    

    re.10
    
    I've tried rubber bands a couple of times, but the ones I had were
    too strong.
    
    I'll attempt to discribe the release I like, but can't find anymore:
    
    The release is made of white plastic and attaches to the downrigger
    ball via a 10" wire.  There is a plastic 'arm' that is hinged at
    one end and can be closed in a snap at the other.  I wrap the 6lb
    test line around the arm 6 times and then snap the ot   
    When a fish hits, the arm opens and the loops of line slide off
    the end.  There is a metal screw to adjust the tension.  I leave
    this completely loose.  There is also a rubber disc that the arm
    snaps into.  It has two slots, one for heavy line and one for
    light line.  I use the bigger slot even though I use light line.
    
    This release rarely doesn't release, even with undersized salmon.
    It also has enough tension not to have many false releases when
    trolling spoons.
    
    Hope this makes some sense...
    
    Mark,
    

    Back to downriggers themselves; has anyone had any experience with
    Invader brand downriggers.  My local dealer has them as well as
    Cannon.  At the low end, Invader looks sturdier than Cannon.  Price
    is about the same ~ $100 without ball and release.
    
    What do I look for?  Length; is it important ;-) ?  Ease of operation,
    versatility?  Anybody wanna help ?
    
    
    Steve

    First, make sure it has a drag feature so you won't rip off the back
    end of your boat when you hang the ball up in the rocks.  Most of
    the lakes here have very irregular bottom contours, so bumping
    bottom is difficult to avoid.  My downrigger balls are completely
    banged up.
    
    My downriggers are very short, and that hasn't been a big problem
    for me.  Longer arms would keep the ball futher from the boat, though.
    
    Mark,
    

    I use PENN FATHOMASTERS which are the only ones I know of with a
    drag and no handle spin when you lower a weight. Rod length---I
    use 8ft Shimano rods with PENN-210 reels. Thes hold about 300yds
    of 17# test line. (Good for 30# salmon)
    On the bottom, I use "black" releases. They have a wire clip that
    you wrap the line arround twice and snap shut. A thumb screw lets
    you adjust the drag. Work great!!! Forget the rubber bands. You
    have to have the right size for different depths and lures. They
    also dry out quickly and are generally a pain.
    I use "Roamer" stacking releases to run two rods off each down rigger.
    I like these because they snap loose and slide down the cable when
    you wind up the weight and they hit the rigger arm. Otherwise, you
    have to stop and remove each stacked release (another pain).
    I also use the short arm riggers off the sides and the long arm
    models off the stern. I prefer the short ones as they are easy to
    reach to set new lines. The long ones need a boat pole to pull in,
    but are a must off the stern because of the prop.
    
    Regards
    Don 

    Looking for advice on electric downriggers. Can anyone help here?
    
    I'm looking to put an electric downrigger on my boat. Boat is a Sea
    Nymph 16' deep V "Fishing Machine" model with 45hp Merc.  Main use of
    the down riggers is for lake fishing in the Rangely area in Maine
    (depths down to about 100ft. where I go.)  Occassional use on some
    smaller lakes.  (I'm tired of the leadcore route!)
    
    I've seen a Walker EDR series in action and it lokked great and
    performed well.  Like the dual rod holder too.  Cannon seems to make
    some good ones too. (I don't want to go all the way to something like
    their Digitroll III model that automatically follows the bottom
    contour.  Too rich for my blood.)
    
    I'm looking for something suitable for some of the bigger Maine lakes.
    Questions/Comments:  Can I mount the raise/lower switch on the dash or
    is it fixed at the downrigger itself? (Sometimes fish alone, so running
    back and forth is a pain; also the reason for the electric.)  Since I
    don't plan on saltwater use can I assume I don't need one of the
    sealed, watertight units? (more $$$).  Reputations of the
    manufacturers?  Nice features of any one versus another brand/model?
    Any help much appreciated.  Thanks.  Pete
    

    
    
       Well I have seen my share of riggers and I would have to say
    that the BIG JON is probably one of the best on the market and 
    they are durrable as heck and excellent service dept...
       We mounted 2 BJ2500ST 's on a friends boat and they are excellent
    for single person fishing, they automatically stop at whatever level
    you set the stop and plus the booms tip up for easier line hookup.
     
         For a good inexpensive rigger the cannon mini troll electric
    is a good buy for the money.
    
       As far as rigging the switch on the dashboard it can probably
    be done with a little inginuity.
    
                                                 anymore questions ask...
    
                                                           Lee
    

I installed a Walker downrigger on FyshByte about five years ago. I have
the 4' boom (with dual rodholder), swivel base, and use a 10# ball. The
Walker came with a 5# fish, which I suppose is okay for lake fishing, but
I sometimes used the downrigger in the ocean and it didn't seem to be
heavy enough. I went to an 8# cannonball; it was a little better until I
lost it in Winnipesaukee. I replaced it with a 10# ball, which stays down
best (of what I've tried).

The UP/DOWN switch failed the first year I had the Walker. I wrote to
Walker, and got a free replacement switch and a great personal letter
from the owner of the company. The components I found when I opened it up
are strictly the best. All mil-spec-looking, like they were intended for
fighter planes under the worst conditions. After five years exposure to
ocean and lake in all kinds of weather it still looks good and works
well.

Now, having told you that in support of Walker, I'll say that a
downrigger was a bad investment IN MY OPINION. I've never caught a decent
fish on it. Have I given it a "decent test"? Yup. Davis spinners, plugs,
hardware, live bait, sliding second releases... I've trolled for hundreds
of miles, hundreds of hours, and caught far more fish without the
downrigger than with it. Will I sell it? Naw, because "hope springs
eternal." I classify it with the junk lures I've bought that were
engineered to catch fisherman. I'll probably keep cussing it.

Art

    
    
    
    
         Art,
     
          Go out to lake ONTARIO with your boat you will catch some
    really nice fish, you definatly need down riggers for the big lakes
    and big lakes ussualy = BIG FISH.
    
    
           Theres nothing like seeing 200yds of line gone in 40 seconds
    and hearing your buddy yell KING ON .......
    
            Cant wait to get back out there next year.......
    
    
                                                  Lee
    

    Why would anyone buy anything other than a Penn?
    
    You can always tell the tourists!
    
    (Just kidding)
    
    /brett