Conference wahoo::fishing

    
    
Ed, Forget adding the extension to your broken graphite, just clean
    up the busted end, go to you locla and get a new tiptop and glue
    it on. The action will be a bit stiffer in the tip, but useable.
    
               Cheers
    
                Ed
        
    
    
    

And one more thing, Ed.  Take the SWIVEL off the line and tie your line 
DIRECTLY to the worm hook.  In fact, with only minor exceptions, most 
artificial baits are best tied directly to the line.

Good luck -

-HoleShot Joe - 

    RE .2
    
    I also started fishing this year after years of dormancy since high
    school (mostly salt water.)  My question to HoleShot is, if most
    atrificial baits are best tied directly to the line instead of an
    a swivel, it there any disadvantage to putting a leader on the lure
    first (I use 12") and then attach it to a swivel?
    
    Thanks for any info.
    
    Kenney

    
    
    thank GOD I'm not HSJ but the only reason to use a leader is for
    fish with big teeth ie Muskie, Pike, Walleye ect.
    
    
    TBDW
    
    

Ken,

If you're fishing for pike or pickeral, then a leader is an absolute MUST!
But, if you're hunting for the elusive bucketmouth, then leaders and swivels
are out.  It's really critical that you maintain as much sensitivity as
possible with your bait, and tying a swivel or leader to your line will kill
the sensitivity required to be able to "feel" a pickup.  As I mentioned in
.2, most bassers tie their artificial baits directly to their line, including
rubber/plastic worms, jigs, spinner and crankbaits.  Some lures should be
tied with a loose loop rather than pulling the knot down tight to the eye of
the bait.  The loose loop allows the bait better freedom and therefore more
action.  Rebels and Rapalas are examples of lures that should be tied with a
loop knot.

There are several knots, too, that you should learn to tie...the cinch knot,
the improved cinch, and the Palomar knot.  I know there are some other knots
(Trilene knot, for example) that can be used as well.  Maybe some of the
other "pros" in this notesfile might jump in and give their opinions.  Who
knows, maybe even R/O Palmer might be willing to share some of his thoughts
on a serious topic?

-HSJ-

    I use those little "Bass Snaps" quite often, I have heard that to
    get the right action you should be using them on some types of crank
    baits. Dont ask me wich ones, I use them for everything except for
    plastic worms and jigs. Does anyone know what the correct aplication
    is for these?
    
    Rich 

    I hear somewhere that a swivel of some kind was necessary if using
    a closed-face reel, so that the line doesn't tangle. Anybody know
    if this is true?
    
    Ed

    >so that the line doesn't tangle.
    
    Well folks welsome to the field of big money bass fishing.  I don't
    use swivels and sometimes snaps on crakbaits.  The rule I follow
    is any crankbait that does not have a split ring on the eye I will
    use a snap.  The ones that have a ring I tie to the line.  
    
    As for the line twist you have to live with it.  Worms/grubs kill
    line..  I change it before every tournamnet on my worm and grub
    rods.  If you dont want to change it go out in a boat untie your
    lure and troll a while with nothing on.  This lets the line untwist.
    The go to shore and tie it to a pole and strech it a little this
    will make it limp.   Now during the streach process don't let you
    line hit the grass or ground, this will put knicks in it.
    Also don't streach it to the breaking point, just put a little presure
    on it and then reel it on nice and tight.
    
    I have also seen people use those "twist out" things ask rr about
    them He likes them.
    
    Good luck 
    Bass'n Bob
    

     I agree with Bob P. on only using snaps for crankbaits without
    split rings (like Rapalas). Bagley baits, for example, have split
    rings; in fact, a while ago I read that some Pro's put split rings
    on every crankbait that doesn't have 'em, because they are stronger
    than snaps. If you're going to do this, buy a pair of split ring
    pliers. they're easy to use, and you can also use them on spinnerbaits
    which use split rings on their blades, and crankbaits that use
    splitrings on their hook hangers.
     As has been stated, tie directly to worms, grubs and jigs, and
    also always tie directly to spinnerbaits. If you use spoons (Dardevles,
    etc.) or spinners (Mepps, Roostertails etc.), use a snap swivel.
     Re the rod - I've built a bunch of 'em, and I suggest that if you
    lost more than 1", you get the guides respaced when you put the
    tip on (tip size will probably change from 5-5 1/2 to 6 6 1/2 or
    7). For a rod of this quality, don't nickel and dime it! If you
    got it from BassPro, it may be covered by their warranty, and they'll
    replace it for $7.00. Otherwise, you could probably send it to the
    factory and get it fixed reasonably cheaply. 
     What I'm getting at is if you didn't buy it as a Worm rod (and
    paid top $), why turn it into a worm rod ? Hope this helps.
    
    Tight Loons,
    
    _ The Skoal Bandit

    ED,
    
    
      NEXT TIME YOU CATCH A 13INCH BASS (SMALL OR LARGE) DO US ALL A
    FAVOR AND THROW IT BACK IN. HOW DO YOU THINK THEY GROW UP TO BE
    HAWGS. THE ONLY USE YOU CAN HAVE FOR A 13INCH BASS IS TO PUT IT
    IN THE FISH TANK AT HOME!

    What do you think I did, leave him in the bucket?
    
    
    
    ...and I'd like to see your fish tank...
    
    !
    
    Ed

    Regarding worms and grubs twisting line -- 
    
    I had severe line twisting problems, especially with grubs, until
    I started using jig heads.  The 90 degree bend at the eye of the
    hook stabilizes the grub, and keeps it from twisting during a retrieve.
    I use jig heads when weight is required, and jig hooks when no weight
    is needed.  Jig hooks are hard to find locally (at least the big
    ones) -- you will probably have to order them from Bass Pro.

    It may not be worth fixing. BUT: try inserting (press-fit) an epoxy
    coted metal rod into one peice of your pole. Let it set, then press
    it into the other piece. Using fiber-glass cloth, rap the break.
    Epoxy it also. Take a picture of your fish. Then please let the rest 
    of your bass go.

    				BUCKETMOUTH
    

    Thanks for the suggestion (metal rod/epoxy)... Is this a tried and
    true method, or an experimental endeavor? The core is so thin at
    the end that I might just be able to get a portion of a safety pin
    shaft into it - with epoxy - then it might just be springy enough
    to give me good results.
    
    BTW - I _did_ take a picture or the fish, and _no_, I won't keep
    any of those juniors as long as there's any granpaws around like
    the one that, yes, GOT AWAY..!!!!  After I saw him, it took a half
    hour before my hair would lie down flat!
    
    Ed

    Yes it is a tried & true method, BUT you will loose the tip action.
    Very few people will "bother" to fix this type of rod. I repaired
    one in '77 and still use it today. Note that after I fixed it, I
    found out that the factory would have repaired it for $10.00. Not
    too swift. 

              			BUCKETMOUTH

                                         Nice Picture Ill bet..

    ask yourself some questions:
    
    what kind of rod is it?
    did you loose a lot 3" or less?
    was it very expensive?
    how old is it?
    
    Just put a new tip on it if it was a small piece brocken.  If it
    was a good rod from a major company and very expensive it will most
    likely have a good warrenty. I have sent back 3 rods in my life
    time and never had a problem.. They jsut send me a brand new one.
    Bob