Conference wahoo::fishing

    You may want to try new spark plugs and new gas before any expensive
    moves....Jim

    	If I understand you correctly, you can rev your engine to the
    high RPM's under basically no load, but when you do put load on
    it, it won't. If the plugs and gas don't do it, I have a couple
    of suggestions.
    	First, buy a repair manual if you don't already have one. This
    will give you all of the adjustments for your engine. The throttle
    adjustment (cable) can affect the motor timing. When you move the
    throttle, it also, on my old engine anyway, moves the breaker plate.
    This manually advances or retards the spark based on the amount
    of throttle. Your engine may not be the same as mine was though.
    The only way to be sure is check the manual.
    	The other thing that comes to mind is the lower unit. Have you
    checked/changed your lower unit lube lately? If you suck up a piece
    of fishing line on the prop shaft, it can destroy the seal in back
    of the prop causing you to lose all your lube. Just an outside chance
    of this happening but worth checking for once in a while.
    
    	One question, can you get the engine to run past half throttle
    with the boat out of the water and the "ear muffs" on ?  

    RAYJ

 

>>    	If I understand you correctly, you can rev your engine to the
>>    high RPM's under basically no load, but when you do put load on
>>    it, it won't. If the plugs and gas don't do it, I have a couple
>>    of suggestions.

     That's correct.  Plugs & Gas = New

>>    	First, buy a repair manual if you don't already have one. This
>>    will give you all of the adjustments for your engine. The throttle
>>    adjustment (cable) can affect the motor timing. When you move the
>>    throttle, it also, on my old engine anyway, moves the breaker plate.
>>    This manually advances or retards the spark based on the amount
>>    of throttle. Your engine may not be the same as mine was though.
>>    The only way to be sure is check the manual.

     It appears that the spark is fully advanced well before full
     throttle is reached.   I'll have to see if I can get a shop
     manual, but previous attempts haven't been too successful.

>>    	The other thing that comes to mind is the lower unit. Have you
>>    checked/changed your lower unit lube lately? If you suck up a piece
>>    of fishing line on the prop shaft, it can destroy the seal in back
>>    of the prop causing you to lose all your lube. Just an outside chance
>>    of this happening but worth checking for once in a while.
    
     I changed the lower unit oil in the fall before I packed it away
     for the winter.

>>    	One question, can you get the engine to run past half throttle
>>    with the boat out of the water and the "ear muffs" on ?  

     Yes, it runs at full RPM's.

     Thanks for your help.  It gave me a few ideas.

     
     -gary

    SHIFT MAN, SHIFT !!!!!!
    

    TURN YOUR MOTOR AROUND AND RUN IT IN REVERSE..........

    Better yet...turn the boat around and mount the motor on the bow...
    
    

    I just had the same problem on my GT150!!!  I had a bad VRO pump.
     This pump pumps the gas as well as the oil.  
    
   >> it will run past 1/2 out of the water.  
    
    BAD BAD You should not rev your motor over 1/4 on the ear plugs.
     There is a good chance of any motor (johnson) before 1987 could
    be damage badly from the back presure from the hose. and back fires.
    Thats what the guy told me who worked on my boat monday!
    
    Since you only have 35 and its not too new I don't think you have
    a VRO pump.  So I dount that is the problem.  I just wanted to let
    you know about running the motor on a hose.
    
    Bassin Bob
    

     Thanks for all of the serious replies, esp. the one about not
     revving the engine using the ear muffs.

     As for the rest of you, well, what can you expect from a bunch of
     people who spend a small fortune so they can sit out in the middle
     of a lake and get baked by the sun and drowned in rain, all for
     the sake of catching an occasional fish (of which I'm one, too).


     -gary

    You can try to run the engine in a barrel of water rather than using
    the ear muffs.  At least it'll show what happens under load.  If
    it doesn"t come up to speed, I'd change the plugs. Even new ones
    out of the box are junk at times.  Does the engine have points 
    rather than an electronic ignition?  If the lack of power comes
    after a warm up period, you could need a water pump.  Of course
    there are a thousand other things, such as stuck choke, leaky
    (air) gas line, linkage as was mentioned, cracked wired to the plugs
    causing an arc or short, etc.,etc. One more thing, borrow a 
    friends gas tank and take it to the lake. That I think would be
    MY first try.  Let us know how you make out.       
    
                                                      FRED

	During my usual early trip to Baddacock, I ran into trouble with
my motor, Mercury 9.8, 1984 model.....After running for about 5 minutes,
engine was real hot and started to smoke....I wonder if it could be the
water pump, does anyone out there know a GOOD and FAIR repair shop near
Burlington, Ma where I live or near Stow where I work. I think it also
needs a good overall spring cleaning.....

By the way the fishing was terrible......

Thanks for your help,

Bigbird    

    Check your water inlet/outlet to be sure they are not clogged.
    I had problems with my 4hp Merc. last year turns out that the 
    water inlet was plugged which in turn burnt out the water pump
    impeller, whose job is to also run the fuel pump. Causing me to 
    believe it was a fuel problem. After countless attemps($) to fix it
    myself I brought it to Hank's Marine in leicter (rte. 9 just outside
    of Webster square in Worcester. I know this is probably a little out
    of your way, but they know their stuff and have reasonable labor 
    rates. Some of these other places like USA marine Want $50.00 Just 
    to tell you what is wrong with your motor, then they will fix
    it($$$$$). On top of that they might tell you it will be a three
    or four week wait Especially at this time of year when everyone is
    getting their boats going. 
    Do some looking thru the yellow pages and make some calls to get an
    idea of what place are getting for labor . 
    Hopefully someone else might have a place that is closer to your home
    but should you need more info send me mail or call me @DTN 291-7123.
      
    SHAWN who_will_leave_it_to_the_pros_next_time. 

    I have a question: How advisable is it to run an outboard motor
    for a few seconds *out* of the water? I've heard conflicting opinions:
    that it is ok if only for 2-3 seconds, or that it is absolute death
    to the impeller that pumps the water through the engine for cooling,
    no matter how short the running period.
    
    Which is true?
    
    Thanks,
    
    Ed

    re: running the motor out of the water...
    
      I wouldn't do it, even for a short time. It would have to have
    a degrading effect on the motor. I picked up a motor circulator
    (looks like "ear-muffs") at Woolworths for $4.99. You hook it up
    to the garden hose, and place it over the water intakes on the
    lower unit. Works slick.
    
      However, if you are talking about starting it someplace where 
    you don't have access to water, you are taking chances.....
    
    -Ron-
    

    My Mercursier repair guide shows pictures of an impeller after running
    without water for 10, 30 and 60 seconds or so.  At 10 seconds or less
    there is already noticiable damage done to the outside edges of the
    impeller vanes (read pumping ability).  By 60 seconds its meltdown
    city.  
    
    Throughout the manual each time running the motor is mentioned, there
    is a boldface warning about running without water, damage etc.
    
    I believe!
    
                                                   Tom

      I purchased my boat used last year. It has a 1978 55hp Evinrude
    motor. When I bought it the guy said that he had just gotten it 
    ready for the season by changing the spark plugs and lower unit lube.
    It ran fine all last season. This spring when I got it out of storage,
    I went to drain the lower unit lube, and very little came out. This
    being my first boat, I really didn't know how much it would hold. When
    I refilled it, it took about 2-1/2 tubes of lubricant to fill it (i.e
    when it started coming out the top hole)!!!! There was no where near 
    that amount that drained out.
    
      A few days after replacing the 2 fill/drain hole plugs, I noticed a 
    puddle on my garage floor under the motor. There was lower end lube
    leaking around the bottom drain plug. Closer inspection showed that 
    the threads on the plug were not real healthy looking. I used some
    gasket cement on it, and after I tightened it down I saw used some
    silicon sealer around the head of the plug. I seems to have worked,
    but I haven't had the boat in the water yet.
    
      My question is, what is the best way to fix this problem??? The fix
    I have now is only a band-aid, as far as I'm concerned. Can I have the 
    holes tapped, and a new and larger plug used??? Or will it be more
    costly than that??? Also, I'm worried about the damage that could have
    been done last year by running it low on lubricant.
    
    -Ron-

    re .13, .14
    
    My brother just bought an old 14' fiberglass boat w. a 50hp Merc,
    and the guy demonstrated how well the motor ran by starting it up
    right in the driveway for him. My brother said he ran it for about
    3 seconds or so, but still, that's a little careless if you ask
    me...
    
    Anyhow, my brother bought the boat, because the price was so low.
    We hope to use it in the Winni Derby coming up. Heck of a shake-down
    cruise!
    
    Thanks for the input, guys.
    
    Ed

ref..10.....I had my motor fixed at Hanks Marine in Leicester (sp)...did a super
job, would have very expensive if taken else where. I t was the water pump, he
said that it had been run out of the water, the empeller was completely gone. I
didn't do it, but I think I know who did......

Thanks for your input Shawn....

Bigbird

    I have a 1984 7.5hp Evinrude on a 12 foot aluminum boat, my problem is
    that just before full throttle the motor slows down, then I can
    back it off and it picks back up again. The motor runs good at idle
    but has that "bog" at full throttle. I changed the plugs and I am
    using new gas. I think it is something to do with the carb. but
    I cant see any adjustment screw's except the idle mixture screw
    on the front.
    
    PLEASE HELP,
    Jamie_who_is_sick_of_running_at_75%_throttle

    	How long has it done this ? Was it running fine earlier this
    year and developed this or did it happen the first time you took
    the motor out and ran it this year ?
    
    	RAYJ

    Jamie,

    Try cleaning the fuel filter.  If the flow is restricted, it could cause
    your problem.  Also, add some OMC 2+4 fuel conditioner to the gas to
    clean out any varnish deposits.

    keith

    re .19,
    I got the motor at the end of last year, so I never had a chance
    to see how it ran before. It has not run perfect for me yet.
          
    re .20,
    sounds like good advice, where is the filter?
    
    I was just talking to a guy who has a 9.9hp Evinrude, and he say's
    his motor does the same thing and that it is normal, but I can't
    see how this would be a normal thing.
    
    Also, does anyone know what RPM the motor(7.5hp) should be doing at full
    throttle with the stock prop on my little 12 footer?
    
    The reason I ask is because it does'nt seem to be winding out like
    it should.
    
    Thanks,
    Jamie_who_thinks_he_could_paddle_faster

    Jamie,

    If you trace the fuel line from the connector it goes to the filter
    which has a little thumb screw to take it apart.  There should be a
    screen with a filter under it.

    I have a freind that bought a 20 hp Johnson and didn't open the vent
    screw on the gas can.   He couldn't figure out wy the motor would
    stall. :-)

    I STRONGLY recomend running some OMC 2+4 fuel conditioner through the
    motor.

    keith

I'm having a similar problem this year with my 25 HP Merc.  When I open it 
up, it starts losing power and speed after a few moments.  I changed gas, 
checked the fuel filter, etc.  The problem still persisted.

Then, by chance, I reached down and squeezed the primer bulb on the gas line 
and BINGO...the engine picked back up to normal speed.  Hmmm...it's getting 
starved for gas.

Although I have yet to "fix" the problem, I suspect that air is leaking in 
thru the connections at the primer bulb.  My friend, Chris, had a similar 
problem with his Merc last year and put a couple of hose clamps on the 
fittings.  It worked.

Soooo...I need to check out that possibility.  .0 may want to as well 
(assuming you're using an external gas tank and not a built-in one).

-HSJ-

    Keith,
    
    Thanks for the info, I'll pick up some 2+4 tonight and check the
    filter. Will this stuff clean the jets in the carb if they are plugged?
    BTW- It's not the vent screw, that's the first place I looked :-)
    
    I'll also check to see if there are any leaks in the fittings from
    the tank to the motor.
    
    Is there anything else I should look for tonight while I'm in there?
    
    Regards,
    Jamie_who_is_starting_to_see_light_at_the_end_of_the_tunnel

       A few ideas/hints and checks...
    
       It sounds like a definate gas flow problem. Idle requires a very small
       fuel/air ratio controlled by air bleeds in the carb (air ratio)
       and idle mixture screw (fuel ratio). At part or full throttle,
       fuel is drawn thru the main system via jets. A lack of fuel
       caused by dirty filter, low float levels, clogged main fuel jets/
       or air bleeds would cause a lean condition as well as vaccum
       leaks at the carb base. (no power @upper RPM's).
       
       "This lean condition should be readable by the plug(S) (bone
       white)".
      
       If plug is black, she's running very rich. Do you smell a strong
       gas odor???                                          
    
       Don't know if marine engine carbs have accellerator pumps but
       these are a must to help bring the engine RPM up to start main
       system gas flow. If it does, you should see a strong squirt of
       gas with no spits and air when you hit the throttle.    
                                                    
       A carb gummout run thru the fuel system (I think mentioned), gas
       filter change (mentioned) and a spray carb cleaner (hit all the
       air bleeds while engine is running at Wide Open Throttle). This
       should clear it. If not, a check of your ignition system is in
       order.
    
       Also carb cleaner is good in isolating vaccum leaks at an idle.
       Spray around the carb area/base and any vaccum line (if any).
       The idle RPM should remain constant...if not, leak somewhere.
     
                       
       I am just a part time auto mechanic but gas engines all run on
       basically the same theory and the symptoms described sounds like
       main gas flow problems, accel pump problem or ignition.
     
       CHECK LIST      
       ----------
       Plug color (white-lean/black-rich/light brown-good)
       Dirty Fuel filter.
       Dirty carb. 
       Bad accel. diaphram.
       Vaccum leaks.
       Ignition timing or weak spark.
    
       Keep in touch on your findings. 
                

    Thanks for the info, I'm going to check it all over again this weekend.
    
    One thing I did notice was when I was running it with the cover
    off, was that if I held the carb linkage at full throttle with my
    hand and backed off the timing the motor seemed to gain power.
    
    Could it be then that the cable linkage is not adjusted properly?
    Or does any of this make any sence?
    
    Jamie
    

      I have a 1978 Evenrude 55hp outboard that I threw a rod in
    this past weekend. It punched three good sized hols in the power
    block. I don't know if the piston froze up or the rod just snapped,
    but it obviously is no good to me now. A dealer told me that I 
    could buy a rebuilt power block for $770 (ouch!!). If I had him
    install it, the price would be around the $1100 mark easily. This
    is more than the motor is worth.
    
      My question is this, does anybody know of a good place to pur-
    chase a rebuilt power block that might cost less than $770????
    Maybe a mail-order place or an engine repair place that does that
    sort of thing. Also, how tough would it be to change it myself,
    having some basic mechanical skills???? 
    
    Thanks,
    Ron Morong

      I am having a problem with my 1972 85hp Evinrude outboard. It is a
    four cylinder with only 1 coil. It starts pretty hard (a few minutes 
    of cranking it over before it fires), but that is not the main problem. 
    It misses real bad, and I'm quite sure it is an electrical problem 
    (ignition) of some type. It will run ok (with a semi-noticable skip) 
    for the first 5-10 minutes, but then it starts really missing, and when 
    I pull back the throttle, it most always stalls. Definetly gets worse
    as the motor gets hotter. When starting off after its hot, it will be
    missing real bad, then it suddenly hits a point where is kicks in,
    and brings the boat right up on plane, but then you can feel it miss-
    ing once you reach a steady speed.
    
      When it is idling and I pull off the plug wires one at a time (trying
    to see if it is missing on one cylinder), number three seems to be the 
    culprit. I held the plug wire close to the plug to get the arc so I 
    could watch the spark, and it seems to be intermittant; it will spark 
    fine, then suddenly it will stop firing for 1-2 seconds, then will start 
    again. It seems to be only (or mainly) that one cylinder.
    
      So far I have replaced the coil ($30), put new plugs in, and checked
    out the plug wires. The local Evinrude dealer seems to feel it is the
    amplifier, but I thought if it is the amp, why is it missing on only
    one cylinder (or seems to be only one)??? Besides, I want to be sure 
    there is nothing else that could be wrong before replacing this part, 
    since it costs $230 (and you can't bring it back if it doesn't fix it).
    
      Any ideas??? Maybe the points (which you need to pull the fly-wheel
    to get at)??? Is there a better place to buy OMC engine parts, where 
    you could get them cheaper than the dealers cost???
    
    -Ron-

    I'm starting to get worried about my engine.  For the second time this
    year,  I couldnt get it started.  It would turn over but wouldnt catch.
    After a while (5minutes +/-), I couldnt get it to turn over - it would
    just growl a little and stop (like the battery was dead).  The tilt and
    tirm and the fishfinder did work.
    
    I let it rest for 15 minutes and tried again.  Good cranking for the
    first time and then back to the low growl.  I pulled the boat out and 
    brought it home.
    
    In my driveway I attached a water cuff and it started up first thing.
    After a minute the oil beeper went on and I shut if off.  I opened the
    oil case/container, squeezed the bulb and started the motor again.
    No problems - ran fine.  Now that I think of it, I had the same thing
    happen once before - oil beeper/alarm - a quick squeeze and everything
    was fine.
     
    I shut the engine off and checked the terminal connections.  They
    looked fine so I removed the battery and brought it into the house for
    a charge.  The charger gage - which I dont really think is that
    accurate- said the battery was charged.  I put the battery on to charge
    for a couple of hours anyway.
    
    This is the second time this has happened this year.  Any suggestions
    on what could be wrong ?

    re .28
    
    Don't just check out the plug wires, replace them. Lousy wires can
    cause all those troubles you mentioned (in any engine) and when
    they're 17 years old they can certainly be ready for replacement.
    If you're reluctant to replace the wires, then swap the wire for
    cyl 3 with one from another cyl, and see what happens. Then you'll
    know for sure if the problem cylinder changes. I had a similar problem
    with a car engine, except it was the coil wire, so the whole engine
    ran badly. The warmer it got, the worse it ran, until it would just
    die completely. A new wire cured it completely...
    
    Ed
    

    re .28
    
    Ron,
    	I agree with Ed; the plug wire could be the problem. Also there 
    must be some sort of distributor involved. If the plug wire doesn't 
    fix it. I'd recommend pulling the flywheel and servicing/replacing 
    the points etc. along with the rotor and other distributor parts. They
    probably should be replaced anyway and they should be a lot cheaper 
    than the amp you mentioned. 
    Regards,
    Paul

    re: .30 and .31
    
    Ed and Paul,
    
      Thanks guys. I did swap the plug wires, and the problem stayed on 
    #3 cylinder. When I said "checked the out", that's what I meant.
      
      Went to a different mechanic last night to see what he thought of
    the problem. He also suggested pulling the flywheel to at least check
    the points ect.... If the points look good (the guy I bought it from
    had some work done on the motor, but not sure of he replaced the
    points) then I will pretty much have to assume that the amplifier/
    powerpack is bad. Thats about all thats left. The guy I talked to 
    last night might be interested in my old motor (1978 55hp Evinrude
    with a thrown rod, needs new power block) in trade for the amplifier.
    Will find out for sure sometime this week. Would like to get this
    cleared up this ASAP, as I go on vacation next week. Going camping
    with the family and had hoped to take the boat with me.
    
    Ron

    Ron,
    The amplifier on my 1977 Johnson 70 started acting up a few
    years ago, causing intermittent spark, and leaving me stranded
    about 2 miles offshore in Cape Cod Bay.
    
    After getting towed in, the problem was obvious as soon as I 
    removed the cover from the amplifier.  The cover is a flat metal
    plate with a rubber gasket covering the entire inner surface.  
    There was a carbon track running right across the gasket, allowing 
    juice to jump over to the outer case of the amplifier housing.
    
    The dealer would not sell me a new gasket, wanted $290 for a
    new module.  My solution was about $287 cheaper.  I brushed on
    3 coats of Liquid 'Lectric Tape, let it dry, and put it all back
    together.  End of problem.    
    
    Hope this works for you.
    
    Rick

    Rick,
    
      Thanks for the suggestion. It sounds like a real possibility.
    I pulled the cover off the amplifier/power-pack last night to
    check it out, but unfortunately after I pulled off the plastic
    cover I saw that the insides of the unit were embedded in a solid
    molded plastic chunk, and I was unable to remove this from the 
    metal plate to see if there might be a short (or evidence of one).
    There was nothing visible around the edges. Maybe I'll try to
    disect it as a last resort, after I've eliminated all other pos-
    sible culprits.
    
    I pulled the flywheel last night and the points look good. I did
    replace the rotor though. The "nipple" on the rotor that keeps it
    locked in place was worn right off. Could have been slipping. I'll
    find out tonight when I try out the motor with a new rotor (which the
    mechanic GAVE to me). I went to a different mechanic the other day, 
    and I really like dealing with this guy. I didn't have the correct type 
    of flywheel puller, so I brought the boat in to him, so he could pull 
    it off. He said that instead of doing that, and having to pay him to do
    it, that I could borrow his puller and do it myself. What a guy!!! The
    only thing left in the electrical loop is an ignition pack, which the
    mechanic says he has a used one off a motor he is using for parts, that
    he will let me have to try out. If it doesn't work he will let me bring
    it back at no charge (how does this guy make money??).
    
      He is going to buy my old motor (1978 Evinrude 55hp, with a thrown
    rod) for $150. He is also ordering the power pack anyways (even if I
    don't need it) so he can have one in stock. It will be here Friday, so 
    with any luck, I will be back on the water this weekend. 
    
      Thanks for tips everyone.
    
    -Ron-

RE: .34
>>  I pulled the cover off the amplifier/power-pack last night to
>>  check it out, but unfortunately after I pulled off the plastic
>>  cover I saw that the insides of the unit were embedded in a solid
>>  molded plastic chunk, and I was unable to remove this from the 
>>  metal plate to see if there might be a short (or evidence of one).
>> There was nothing visible around the edges. Maybe I'll try to
>>  disect it as a last resort, after I've eliminated all other pos-
>>  sible culprits.
  
Ron,
You mentioned a plastic cover, so possibly you've got a different
apmplifier than my motor had.  On mine the module and cover were
made of cast aluminum.  If you've got the metal housing, you don't
have to dissect the module to get at the gasket I was referring to.
The gasket is located directly between the cover and the housing.
It is just a sheet of dielectric rubber gasket material cut out in
the shape of the cover, with holes for the retaining screws to pass
through.

If your's is missing the dielectric gasket, it could cause the high
voltage inside the pack to short to the cover and then to the outer 
case.  Or it could short via a carbon track across the gasket as 
mine did.

Again, don't bother trying to get a new gasket at the dealer, they 
don't carry it.  Just coat the *entire* inside of the cover with 
about 3 coats of "Liquid 'Lectric Tape", let dry, and reassemble. 

Rick   

    re: .35
    
    Rick,
    
      It does sound like we have totally different styles of Amplifiers.
    Mine has a plastic cover. This cover covers the "module board" (which
    is embedded/molded into a hardened semi-clear plastic) which is mount-
    ed to a metal/aluminum base. When I say mounted to the aluminum base,
    I mean that there is no way to get it off outside of using a big ham-
    mer to break it off. There is no gasket between the cover and the mod-
    ule, and since the module is inside the semi-clear plastic block and
    the cover is made of plastic (read non-conductive surface), I can see
    no way for a short to occur. Also, there was no evidence of a spark
    on the metal plate, on the part of the plate I could see anyways. I
    would think that the short (if there is one) is someplace on the metal
    plate, between the molded chunk of plastic and the mounting plate. I
    couldn't get at it because I couldn't get the plastic off the metal. 
    They are held together by two mounting screws, which (BTW) are also
    within this molded chunk of plastic. Its like they mounted the module
    board to the metal plate, then molded the plastic around the board,
    covering the circuitry, screws, and everything else on the board. Un-
    less there is supposed to be a gasket between the metal plate and the
    molded plastic covered module board. But, like I said, the screws
    holding the module board to the metal plate are also covered by the 
    molded plastic, so I can't get at them.
    
      BTW, the new rotor didn't do the trick.
    
    -Ron-

> Moderator I looked in 555.11 boats motors, but it had blue fishing

	please move to approiate note...


	Looking for recommendations re fixixing a 4hp merc circa 1970

	The impeller sh*t the bed ans I wasn't driving so it was 3 minmutes 
	and a hot motor before shutdown

	Should I try fixing it myself? Am am a weekend tinkerer

	Any recommendations on a good shop to go to?

	I work in Marlboro and live in Sturbridge

	Is Gauch bros in Shrewsbury good for this?


Johnny Roach

    I have a quick question about changing the low end gear oil.
    
    Should the motor be tilted so that it is straight up and down?
    Or can you have it trimmed up as if you were ready to tow the
    boat?  Does it matter?
    
    	Thank you,
                 
    	Rodney

    Hi Rodney,

    	Have the motor in the strait up and down position. Remove both screws,
    drain, fill from bottom. When fluid reaches top and spills out
    of top hole. install top screw. Then install bottom screw. Assure
    that both are tight. Simple isn't it? Use gear lube made for you 
    motor. Mercury=Quicksilver

    On the bottom screw, it should have a magnet. check it for metal chips.
    a few can be expected. It shouldn't be covered. 

    Rich

    	Thank you, Rich.  I wonder what I need for my Evinrude?  I told
    the guy at Tri City Marina what I had.  So it must be okay even
    though he had only one type that I could see.  I'll double check.
    
    	Thanks,
    
    	Rodney