| Although I have flyfished before, I'm certainly not a "purist".
I have done saltwater before with a 9' flyrod and weight-forward
#9 floating line with an 8' leader. The rod is an older glass rod
and was designed for bass/salmon fishing.
Just about any of the larger flyrod poppers should work for stripers
and blues. My most effective popper for stripers was a flourescent
pink popper with long pink trailing feathers (I dunno what it's
supposed to look like, but they used to really love it!). My only
concern is what a blue would do to the monofil leader. I don't know
if you can tie a stainless leader on and still cast effectively.
Maybe someone else can help.
-Joe-
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| For a reel I use a pluagher 1505 ?? with braided nylon line backing,
about 35lb is small but strong. You can put lots of it on the
reel, you will need it. I use a 9foot custom built rod 8,9 or
10 line. I use a 12 lb test mono leader with a 2 foot 40 lb test shock
tip. For blues the only fish I have done this with I use plan bucktail
hooks. The kind you would buy to replace ones on a plug. White
bucktail with red thread. They work great.
We fish school blues out in the bay. When we find fish we cast
a atom popper with no hooks. The fish will follow it all the way
to the boat. Hitting it and some times not letting go. Any time
you hook a blue 3 or 4 will follow it in. The other guy cast the
fly rod and WAMM the fight is on.
Some times we hook two at the same time and they ran in different
directions. Thanks why I use 12 or lighter leader. I would rather
loose the fish and leader then a good fly line or even a rod. That
35 lbs noylon does not break too easyly.
Good luck
Bassin' bob
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| Rich,
I'm not sure what kind of money you are intending or willing to invest.
first reels: Salt water reels can go for big bucks. 2 - 400. A
1495 1/2 Pflueger will go 30.00. Sci-anglers system II < 90.00. A
Valentine < 90 or a Valentine multiplier < 120.00. Valentines are from a
local Mfg. and like the new SciAnglers II will stand up to salt water
abuse more than the Pflueger. Both have a drag mechanism that will stop
a freight train. I believe Martin just came out with a servicable
saltwater reel for < 50.00. I'll check if you are interested.
Lines: go with a saltwater taper (also called bass bug taper) in size
8 or 9. Greater than size 9 is not for distance but for strength.
Too much wind resistance. It's a compromise and depends a bit or
your choice of rod. Start with a floater and advance to sink tips,
intermediates (sloooow sink) and sinking lines.
Rods: 9' is right on target. Graphite is the only way to go. Today a
good glass rod is as expensive as a graphite rod. However, money will
dictate your choice and there are several. Big names are Sage, Orvis,
Powell, Scott, Loomis, etc.. Be aware that some companies that make very
reputable bass rods don't know shinola about fly rod tapers. Lamiglass
makes a good inexpensive rod. A 2 or 4 inch fighting butt comes in handy
on a saltwater rod. Some are removable.
Flies: Poppers, lefty's deceivers in 3/0 and large streamers on stainless
or nickel hooks. Big shrimp patterns can work too.
Some catalogs offer outfits; eg. Hook&Hackle 9 weight for bass steelhead,
salmon and light satwater. Detachable fighting butt 9' Lamiglass
graphite, Pfleuger 1498 Medalist reel and Sci-Anglers wf-9-f air cell
supreme line. Some backing, some flies, some practice and for a modest
investment of $111.25 you are off and fishing. This is not junk.
References: past editions of rod&reel and flyfisherman contain articles
on saltwater rodding. The local library is the place to start. Concord
library in Ma. has a good collection. The "Orvis guide to flyfishing"
is one of the better books to start with. It is up-to-date and very
informative on casting, equipment, technique, knots and so on.
I tried to stick to the question and be objective, hope this helps,
You may want to solicit the flyfishing notes for more information,
Tight lines,
John
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