Conference wahoo::fishing-v2

    6" sounds too close for my comfort... 
    
    most transom savers have a U on one end that stradles the rear roller
    while trailering, a rubber strap typically holds other end on the lower
    unit... i'm suprized the Merc mount won't hold it...
    
    i'm assuming the transom on the whaler is solid enough to handle the
    20hp while trailering, if the previous owner trailered it around as-is
    and the bracket appears to hold it well, i'd use the bracket and not
    worry about it... but many folks are more conservative than i...
    
    -donmac

    If you are a little inventive, you should be able to make up one of
    these transom braces out of metal. You could put a bend in a piece of
    metal stock to go under the end of your boat(transom) and engage the
    roller. I made mine out of wood (2x4) with a rubber padding to support
    the engine. By all means 6 inches is not a lot of clearance and
    I certainly would use the tilt bracket and a support. A welding shop should
    also be able to make something up for you for not much dinero.
     Bob N.

    Transom Savers are about $20. I have one on my 20hp. It leaves the
    engine tilted about 3/4 of the way down. It is not locked in either
    the up or down position. A strap holds the engine in place on the 
    transom saver. 

    Rich

I have a similar situation as .0 in that my trailer does not extend back far 
enough to use a transom saver.  I've always used the lock on the motor to 
lock the engine in the up position.  Unfortunately, the lock pin broke due 
to excessive bouncing and I've been forced to block it up with a large 
wooden dowel (actually, a piece of closet rod, about 1" or so in diameter).  
I put a couple of screw eyes in either end and use a bungi cord attached to 
the ends to keep it in place.

I'm not too confident that the rod will hold up (even though it's made of
birch) and I'd hate to see it break.  With the engine down, I have LESS than
6" clearance.  I'll probably take a 2x3 block and whittle it down to fit as
a replacement for the dowel. 

If anyone has found a solution for this, please let us know.

Thanx,

Joe

    The end of your bunks should be even with the transom. With the boat in
    that position on the trailer, there should be enough room for the
    transom saver. The engine is not in the full up position as described
    in .0. It is 75% down. That is almost a strait line from the trailer
    to the cavitation plate. The V in the transom saver goes just under
    the cavitation plate. On my set-up there is a slight upward angle of
    the transom saver. About 20 degree's. There are transom savers that mount
    just below the back roller. You have to drill two holes in the trailer
    frame to mount a plate that holds the transom saver in place.

    Rich 

    Thanks for all the advice, guys.

    I think I understand pretty well what a transom saver is now and how
    it works.  I definately need *something* to hold my motor up.

    I'll first try Rich's advice and see if I can move my winch support far
    enough forward to allow the end of my bunks to be even with the bottom
    of the transom.  I don't know if the trailer is long enough for that
    though.

    If not, I'll try a wood block under the motor and a bungee cord to the
    trailer to keep it from bouncing.  If I wanted to get creative, I might
    even fashon a psuedo transom saver that would go between the bottom of
    the motor and the drain pipe at the bottom of my transom.  I'd still
    need to run a bungee cord around the motor and to the trailer.

    I'll let you know when I figure out the perfect solution...   8-)

    -Stevie D

	I have a similar problem with my boat and trailer.  The rear
	frame of the ez loader trailer is 18'' from the transcom (but
	the rollers on either side of the center line are on extensions 
	that come to within 3'' of the transcom edge).   So there is 	
	a bit of distance from the rear frame to the motor's mid-unit
	area.

	I just picked up a transcom save that should be long enough.

	The questions I have are:	
	
	. the only one I could find says "warning: not recommended for
	  motors over 40 h.p.", and my motor is a 65 hp.  Is the size
	  and weight difference btw a 40 and a 60 very much ?  The guy
	  at the marina said it should be ok, but I wonder...

	. what is a good angle for the transcom saver ?   I figure it
	  will end up at about 25 to 30 degrees.  

	. where is the proper place for the transcom saver's rubber V 
	  to make contact with the motor ?    ::NEAL said the cavitation
	  plate I think ?   Is this the area near the _lower_ unit ?

	. Is the purpose of this thing to support the motor or just to
	  raise it up and keep the motor from moving ?  	
	  I'm not so sure the one I bought will be able to reach the lower
	  unit, maybe more mid-way on the shaft, and it seems the support
	  it gives depends on where the rubber V goes.


	Thanks
	Ken

	I ended up returning the shaky transcom holder because it
	seemed too weak and I didn't want to take any chances. PLus
	I figured I could make a better one myself for cheap, and I did.

	Picked up a 1 inch square steel tube for $9, a rubber V and "double-U"
	bracket from a trailer place for $3, a couple of nuts and bolts,
	and made a real strong one for about 1/3 the price.  Bolted a couple 
	of heavy angle brackets to the trailer, and I'm in business.  The 
	thing attaches/detaches easily with a cleavis pin.

	Anyone considering making one, feel free to contact me for additional
	info.  Making your own is the way to go.
 
	Ken

    I'm picking up a 12' Crawdad tomorrow. The trailer is an Easyload
    galvanized trailer. I need to know what size "ball" I have to get for
    my truck. Does anybody out there have one of these trailers? Does the
    ball size vary with these trailers? I need info fast. Thanks in advance
    for the help.

Most small trailers use a 1 7/8" ball versus a 2" for larger trailers. 
It's a safe bet to pick up the smaller one.

Also, there are some reverible types of balls that use a pin to lock them
into place and are designed for both sizes.  More expensive but may be 
worthwhile if you have trailers that use both sizes.

Joe