Conference vmszoo::rc

    Well, I haven't done this yet either, but I have gone through a similar
    exercise ...
    
     1) you left out a battery charger.   
     2) you're probably going to want to get a couple more battery packs. 
    	(minimally one more: One to run, One to charge)   
     3) I think the BoLink comes with a body, but check that.  
     4) there are probably lots of pieces still needed.  
     They can add up a little bit:
    	- Battery wire and connectors
    	- Antenna  (or antenna wire holder)
    	- mounting stuff (velcro, mounting tape, screws)
    	- drive gears  (pinion & spur)
    	- steering servo ball links (are they in the kit?)
    	- servo saver for steering servo
    	
    	Dave.

I spoke to both ae and BoLINK.

Both kits are rolling chassis with tires, wheels, suspension, etc; 
everything except electronics.  The BoLINK includes a NASCAR body, the ae RC10L
does not.

The BoLINK chassis is plastic, the RC10L comes in fiberglass and graphite.

ae does not see BoLINK as a competitor, yet.  The 1991 BoLINK stuff
was supposed to be getting better.  ae sees their competition as the TRC Lynx.
The ae cars are better quality, easier to maintain and win more races than the
BoLINK.

ae recommended the glass kit to start with, as I can upgrade to graphite later.
The graphite is lighter, but is more brittle and can be snapped.

Does anyone have experience with the Lynx?

I do you think I would notice a difference between a BoLINK vs a RC10L vs 
a Lynx right now (given they had same electrics)?

If they are 'equal' for now, I'm inclined to go with the BoLINK car because
of the price, except I'm concerned about finding replacement parts.

hp

From:	ACESMK::DECSRC::"[email protected]" "Mark Brown  20-Sep-1991 1255" 20-SEP-1991 12:53:34.37
To:	jenevr::pozzetta
CC:	decsrc::mbrown
Subj:	Re: RC On-Road Car Shopping


Given that you are new to on-road, and are price conscious, it is very
important that you spend more time with people who are racing in your
area, and gather the information to inform your buying decision.

You should buy a kit that your local track stocks the parts for. 
That is probably a point in favor of the Associated car, but I don't
know your local shop.  (I live in Northern California.)

You should buy a kit that some of the *good* local racers are familiar
with and know how to set up.  "Good" does not necessarily mean the
fastest -- it means competitive and willing to talk to you and help
you when the time comes.  The difference between a good setup and
a mediocre one is even larger in on-road than in off-road.  A tweaked
on-road car just flat doesn't work.

If you are going to race stock motors (highly recommended) you probably
want 1400 SCR batteries, not SCEs.  SCEs don't stay matched, you can't
run them more than once every few days without major damage, and you
don't need the extra capacity for a four minute race.  (But talk to
the locals about this.)  Six low-grade matched SCR cells go for $30
or less, and with two sets of these (assembled into packs) you can
go racing.

Save money by shopping around for used equipment.  There are always
people upgrading or dropping out.  You should be able to find a used
radio, and quite possibly a used RC10L car.  Used motors and batteries
are dicey.

You are going to be unhappy with the Futaba MC112B, because it does
not have an on-off switch.  You turn it on by plugging in the battery.
For running in a parking lot this is OK, but for racing it is a real
pain.  Besides, the MC112B does not have a very progressive throttle
action -- more like a 3-step resistor controller.  Save your money
and buy the new Sport model Tekin controller (model 408S).  You will
be amazed -- it will make you a better driver instantly.  No joke.

Have fun,

    --mark

% ====== Internet headers and postmarks (see DECWRL::GATEWAY.DOC) ======
% Received: by src.pa.dec.com; id AA18479; Fri, 20 Sep 91 09:52:24 -0700
% Received: by jumbo.pa.dec.com; id AA20896; Fri, 20 Sep 91 09:54:24 -0700
% From: [email protected] (Mark Brown)
% Message-Id: <[email protected]>
% Date: Fri, 20 Sep 91 09:54:17 PDT
% To: jenevr::pozzetta
% Cc: decsrc::mbrown
% Subject: Re: RC On-Road Car Shopping

From:	SOJU::POZZETTA     "CIS EIC Dev. Tools Seg. - MK02 1/J17 - 264-0181" 20-SEP-1991 13:23:16.74
To:	ACESMK::DECSRC::"[email protected]"
CC:	POZZETTA
Subj:	Re: RC On-Road Car Shopping

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the advice.  The local track/shop owner suggested that I stop by on 
race nights (saturdays only, for now) to see what people are running and to 
talk to the racers.  (BTW the track here is very nice; indoors, large, carpet, 
oval high-bank, and smooth)

I didn't know about the difference between SCE and SCR packs.  I've sent away 
for some R/C bacis books to help me out on this and other matters.  It's 
confusing looking in the catalogs to try to figure out what ESC goes best with 
what motor, transmitters/reveivers packages and what servos I need for what I
want to do.

Looking at other cars, I was begining to doubt the MC112B ESC. It seems that 
the Tenkin 410S and the Novak T-4 are more popular.  I'll check out the 408S, 
it seems to a bit less expensive.

The most popular servo seems to be the Futaba S132H micro with the Novak 1A 
miniservo next.

Used equipment is a good idea.  It seems that a used transmitter/receiver would 
help cut costs.  Futaba stuff seems to be the popular there, but I'm confused 
about the differences between the Magnum, Magnum Sport and Magnum Sport Jr.  
The Jr seems to be more expensive that the non-Jr.

Can you recommend some transmitter/receiver sets I should look out for?

Henry.

From:	ACESMK::DECSRC::"[email protected]" "Mark Brown" 20-SEP-1991 14:32:32.76
To:	acesmk::soju::pozzetta
CC:	decsrc::mbrown
Subj:	Re: RC On-Road Car Shopping

    


    Used equipment is a good idea.  It seems that a used
    transmitter/receiver would help cut costs.  Futaba stuff seems to
    be the popular there, but I'm confused about the differences between
    the Magnum, Magnum Sport and Magnum Sport Jr. The Jr seems to be
    more expensive that the non-Jr.
    
    Can you recommend some transmitter/receiver sets I should look out
    for?

The Futaba Magnum Sport is the bottom of the line.  It has the fewest
adjustments.

The Magnum Junior is a Magnum Sport with more adjustments -- more
suitable for racing.  You can adjust the steering rate (very useful),
the throttle high and low points, etc. It only costs $15 more as I
recall.

The Magnum (used to be called the Magnum Senior, the newest revision
is called the Magnum AM) is a stronger transmitter than the Magnum
Sport/Junior.  You are less likely to be "hit" by racers on nearby
channels.  I think the receiver you get with the Magnum AM is smaller,
lighter, and has a shorter antenna than the receiver that comes with
the Sport/Junior.  (The Sport/Junior receiver has a 1 meter antenna,
which is a real pain to install in a car.)

Top of the Futaba line is the Magnum FM, a 10-bit PCM system with an
even larger number of knobs.  Nearly all of them are redundant in
typical use.  The FM transmitter and receiver reduce your chances of
being "hit" even more.  The receiver is quite small and light and has
a 1/2 meter antenna.

It is handy to go with something that lots of other folks are using.
That way, if you have trouble, you can (e.g.) try your transmitter
with their receiver and isolate the problem.  You can also borrow
crystals.

Around here, Futaba equipment is used the most, with Airtronics a strong
second and Jr a distant third.

    --mark

% ====== Internet headers and postmarks (see DECWRL::GATEWAY.DOC) ======
% Received: by src.pa.dec.com; id AA19021; Fri, 20 Sep 91 11:31:31 -0700
% Received: by jumbo.pa.dec.com; id AA05986; Fri, 20 Sep 91 11:33:40 -0700
% From: [email protected] (Mark Brown)
% Message-Id: <[email protected]>
% Date: Fri, 20 Sep 91 11:33:27 PDT
% To: acesmk::soju::pozzetta
% Cc: decsrc::mbrown
% Subject: Re: RC On-Road Car Shopping

	I live in Japan. So I don't know about American market.

	So I'm going to tell you about when I started RC Car.

	I started RC car with ae 12L arbon chassis.
	It is said that carbon chassis is not better for beginner,
	because carbon chassis is too delicate to drive.
	But I don't think so. Because it is the probrem of practice.

	And I think it is better for you to choice Hi-speed sarvo for 
	steering. Otherwise, you will be irritated for steering response
	after few month of staring.

	I recommend you like this.

		Chassis  : Major in your area
		Electoro : If you can, hi_paformanced one.
			   But it's price is so high.
		Battery  : SCE. SCR makes too fast for beginner.
		Motor    : Low paformanced one. No tuned one.
				
	Regards.
	Katsuhiko

    My $0.02
    
    Get the best equipment (car, batteries, motor, radio) you can afford,
    now.  If you get out of the sport, the good stuff re-sells as well or
    better.
    
    Regarding motors and batteries... Dont skimp here.  If you race stock,
    buy a decent stock motor and 1400mah batteries (pushed, punched,
    matched -- whatever you can afford).  All the high performance
    equipment can be easily 'detuned' with large spurs and small pinions,
    and later, when you get better, all you need to do is throw in the
    correct spur, pinion, and a decnet set of brushes and springs...
    
    BTW...  RC10LW SS  is my recomendation to you carpet-ovalers.