T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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201.1 | Use household amonia cleaner | LEDS::ZAYAS | | Tue Jun 23 1987 19:28 | 13 |
|
Had the same situation with the top front sides of the GP Sportser
this past winter. I use the household cleaning stuff. Just soaked
it and clamped one end in a vise (with wood protecting it, not to
the metal) and twirled the other end with a clamp (w/ wood again)
90 degrees. When it dried, it sprange back only a little. Sanded
one edge flat and glued it on the plane. Then sanded the tops of
these two guys and glued on the top block.
I love these contruction techniques. Start with 4lbs of wood,
glued every which way. Then sand off 3.8lbs of wood...
Good luck.
|
201.2 | Windex | WFOVX0::KROSTOSKI | | Tue Jun 23 1987 20:18 | 7 |
| > The water trick I've heard of
> and used, but Ammonia? Who, what, and where does one find this? Any
> precautions that I should be aware of? Does it work better than water?
One of the hobby magazines suggest to use WINDEX. It is suppose to work
just like ammonia but without the smell. Since I have not used it I cannot
say just how it will turn out.
|
201.3 | Experience w/amonia | CLOSUS::TAVARES | John--Stay low, keep moving | Wed Jun 24 1987 11:31 | 13 |
| I've used the amonia trick. I dilude the amonia with 50% warm
water and let the balsa soak in that. Great for doing small
bends as in laminating small rubber model wing tips. The amonia
softens the balsa fibers, making them much more pliable than
soaking in just water. You should let it soak 15-20 minutes.
Never thought of using straight amonia. This is because the 1/16
or so stuff I use for laminating softens just fine in the cut
solution. I would imagine that if I were trying to bend 1/8
stuff I would try the straight stuff.
Sheeting with 1/8?? I'd cut that to 3/32, no matter what the
plans said. Save a gram any way you can!
|
201.5 | | EARTH::SCANTLEN | | Thu Jun 25 1987 15:54 | 7 |
| On my Sportster 20, the plans recommended using ammonia for presoaking
and forming the balsa. I used the straight household brand with
an arrangement affixed to a sawhorse outside...no problems with
fumes that way! On a Dumas SK Daddle I built years ago, the forming
of the plywood hull was done under moist steam...
|
201.6 | ammonia can be VERY effective | TALLIS::SAMARAS | Advanced Vax Engineering LTN | Fri Jun 26 1987 10:21 | 7 |
| I once saw a demonstration of what amonia does to wood. A piece of
hardwood was exposed to supercooled ammonia vapor. After a while, they
were able tie a knot in the middle of a 2X4!! Pretty wild. They were
making furniture and lamps requiring "crazy" bends.
...bill
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201.7 | Don't use steam | MURPHY::ANKER | Anker Berg-Sonne | Tue Jan 26 1988 11:46 | 12 |
| Re:< Note 248.35 by AKOV02::DHUGHES "the OTHER Dave Hughes..." >
Dave,
Just a quick comment.
> others. A few pieces will need steam to restraighten. The ribs
Don't use steam. Too hot, sets too quickly. Use ammonia
and leave in press until it has evaporated.
Anker
|