Conference vmszoo::rc

    Most recommend painting from the inside...to avoid chipping and
    scratching...did you do this?

    
    
    I use pactra paints also and have had good results. I found that
    air brushing worked the best since it limits the overspray you get
    when you use the spray cans. But both work well if you mask carefully.
    
    I wash the body with dish soap and warm water, then thoroughly dry
    it. Do the masking, and cover the outside of the body with saran wrap so no
    overspray gets on it. I have not had any problems with flaking and
    have had many crashes!  Also, use the paint liberally to reinforce
    the body. The more coats the better. I found that the body tends
    to rip after many wall crashes in the same side (oval track!) well
    before the paint comes off. 
    
    Good Luck!
    

    
    
    	I have painted several lexan bodies for me and for friends and
    usually the paint lasts through a couple of dozen crashes before
    needing touch-up.  What I usually do is sand lightly the interior
    of the body in order to get good paint adherence (paint doesn't
    stick to smooth, shiny surfaces).  Later wash carefully with mild 
    soap to remove any sanding residue, then mask away areas not to 
    be painted.
    
    I frequently use water based acrylic paints (Tamiya, Kyosho, etc)
    with good results. I've also tried Rust-oleoum spray paint with
    excellent results, it doesn't crack nor come off easily.
    
    Good Luck!
    

    
    
    		Just as in -.1 I would think that an acrylic paint would
    	be the way to go. Enamel paints dry to a hard nonelastic finish
    	that is not fuel proof. On the other hand acrylic paints dry
    	to a much more elastic finish and are at least gasoline proof
    	as well I'm told hot fuel proof. I suspect the result will be
    	a lot more to your specification than an enamel based paint.
    
    				Mike
    

    
    
    Re .4, 
    
    I have read about sanding the body, but doesn't that leave scratched
    all over the finish???...or do you paint on the outside of the body???
    

    
    	According to the RC car books I've read, they suggest painting
    the inside only, for two main reasons...
    	1.  Protects the paint from impact damage
    	2.  Gives it a "Deep" look, like a clear coat does on a real
    car.
    	As for sanding, sand where you plan to paint...as described
    earlier, it gives the paint a good surface to cling to.  If you
    did not sand before, that is probably why the paint chipped so easily.
    	What to use to sand?   The finest grit you can find!  Otherwise,
    the scratches will certainly be noticed.  You only want to rough
    the surface, not attack it!
    	For a reference, see "RC Car Action" (I think thats the name.)
    
    
    

		I don't know if you can get it in the States,but
	the people who make Solarfilm produce a paint called Solarlac.
	It comes in all the solarfilm colours,is completely fuelproof,
	and when it's dry it's flexible....   could be worth trying.

	bob

      Thanks for the tips!! I guess a trip to the *Hobby Store*
    is in order.I'll let you all know of anything different from
    the above replies.
       Someone commented this morning on a book called
    "Completely Cars"by Harry Higley,so I ordered it from
    Tower Hobbies,sounds promising also.
    
    Re: -.2  Yes it was painted on the inside,beautiful job too!
             Oh well,maybe what little paint is left can be removed.
    

    WHAT I USUALLY DO IS SAND THE BODY PAINT IT WITH SPARY PAINT,THEN
    I LINE THE INSIDE WITH DUCT TAPE.I HAVE HAD MY BODIES LAST LIKE
    THIS UP TO A YEAR.......

I used Rust-o-leum and I cleaned first with vinegar.
The paint didn't chip but the car looked so nice after two weeks
of masking and trim that my friends really attacked it the first
day I drove it.  That was the last day on that body. Sigh.

              _!_
Bye        ----O----
Kay R. Fisher / \
 
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