Conference vmsnet::hunting$note:hunting

	Mark,

	I did one about a year ago and was afraid as hell when I started,
	but it came out very good.  Use one of the top name brand strippers
	like Z-STRIP.  If you use steelwool to remove the gunk, always
	rub it with the grain.  The old finish and gunk in the checkering
	can be removed with a stiff toothbrush.  The stripper will raise
	the grain a bit, so some sanding will be in order.  Use a block
	under the sandpaper so you sand in a low spot.  Bleach can be used
	to lighten the finish or even out spots that the stripper didn't
	get.  It too will raise the grain and require some sanding. As
	far as finish goes, there's oil, gloss or satin in varnish or 
	polyurethane.  I used the gloss polyurethane and it looked like
	the finish Remington used to put on.  If you use varnish or the
	polyurethane, thin the first couple of coats.  Use very fine
	sandpaper between coats to remove dust or bubbles.  Good luck.

	Gordon

	Mark, I know this a bit of a boring reply, but
	you will find a lot of good information in 

		(LOSER::)FIREARMS

	notes:	906, 3065, 2771 and 3439 seem to be a
	good place to start. Sorry, don't know if you
	are already a member.


					- Mike

	3M has a non-toxic stripper which works really well.  I've
	used it on a gun stock and furniture.  The nice thing about
	it is that there are not any toxic fumes.

	Jerry

    	
    I have an 1100 and I just spray painted it. Black. then added some
    duckboat green splashes. Not much to look at, but works fine.
    
    
    					Gordy
    

    Thanks for the info and the pointer to FIREARMS - I've started
    reading through there.  I started the stripping last night.  I will
    let you know how it comes out, but I will probably be back with more
    questions before then.
    
    I couldn't find the non-toxic stripping compond.  The only problem
    I've had so far is that the directions contradicted itself.  It said
    "use in well ventilated area" and "apply with temp over 65 degrees".
    Not easy to do both here in New England this time of year :-)
    
    I do have one question so far.  The places where the finish had worn is
    stained a dark color.  Any ideas on how to get those stains out?
    Gordon suggested bleach in .2, but I don't want to lighten the whole
    stock just remove the stains.  (I'm not finished reading the related
    notes in Firearms, so the answer may be in there).
    
    Thanks for the help,
    Mark
    

    Use bleach on a paper towel to remove the stains, only in the areas
    that are needed. Just keep an eye on it until it is the same as the
    rest of the stock.
    
    MW

 You may be able to sand the stains out, if they are on a smooth part of the
stock.

 The Doctah

    
    Adding to what the Doc said in .7, taking a damp cloth to the area that
    is stained will raise the grain higher than the surrounding area making
    it easier to sand down without damaging anything else.
    
    -Kendall

      
    
      I would agree to dampening the wood, try a trick that was taught to 
    me,
       sand all the finish off, dampen a cloth, wipe down the whole stock,
    and use a gas stove or burnzamatic torch and just dry the water off it
    but dont make it too hot this gives you a better grain pulling effect,
     if you do this 5-6 times the stock will come out really smooth and the
    grain will also stand out much better.
    
      Another trick to making a nice job is to tiger strip the stock, this
    can be done with a burnzamatic torch, just discolor the wood with heat
    and make stripes on the stock. this is a common practice on muzzle
    loaders.
    
    
                                                             Lee
    

    To revive this old note, I am *still* refinishing my gun stock.  It
    seems I started about 2 weeks late in the year.  Before I was finished
    with the gun stock, the snows melted and I got interupted by gardening
    and other project around the house.  Then there were summer vacations,
    then I got addicted to striped bass fishing.  Any way, If I hurry I
    figure I can be done in time to shoot a round of skeet before the Oct
    1 pheasant opener.
    
    I used one of the Parks brand strippers.  What a mistake.  In hind
    sight it took me much longer than it should have.  I eventually found
    the 3M stripper and it worked much better.  None of the trick mentioned
    here or Firearms helped remove the stains.  I even tried the oven
    cleaner hint, and it CREATED black stains.  I finally gave in and spent
    the time sanding the worse of the stains out.
    
    I also had trouble getting the finish out of the checkering.  I
    scrubbed it with a stiff tooth brush and applied stripper many times
    and I still didn't get it out of a few small spots.
    
    The delima I have now is getting the finish to dry.  I decided to try
    tung oil.  It's now been 2 1/2 days since the first coat and it is
    still sticky.  What did I do wrong?  Did I put it on too thick?  It
    didn't run.  What should I do know??????
    
    Even though the stock will not be perfect, It should be much better
    than before and I'm sure I could do a better job the 2nd time around.
    
    Thanks,
    Mark
    

    
    
>    It's now been 2 1/2 days since the first coat and it is
>    still sticky.  What did I do wrong?  Did I put it on too thick?  It
>    didn't run.  What should I do know??????
    
    	Wow! You've certainly been through the mill with that refinishing
    job! I haven't ever refinished a stock on my own, so my advice doesn't
    come from experience, but it might help (maybe?).
    
    	Do you have the stock in a dry place? If it's in a cellar or
    something, it might be too damp for the oil to dry quickly. That's all
    I can think of. You might try hitting it with a hair dryer when you
    have a chance....maybe it'll speed up the process if you do it for a
    couple days....
    
    
    							jim s.

    re: .10
    
    Mark,
    
    When I re-did a stock a while back I thinned the tung oil 50/50
    with mineral spirits for the first 4 coats.  Then 75/25 for the
    next 4 coats.  The last 2 coats were straight tung oil.  A "very"
    light 0000 steel wool between each coat and that should do the
    trick for you.
    
    24 hour dry time between coats ought to be enough, the average
    semi-dry cellar should be fine (no musty smell) and around 60�F.
    
    Don't use the hair dryer as Jim suggested in .11,  it will stir up a 
    ton of dust and you'll kick yourself with every stoke of the steel 
    wool.   8-)
    
    Good luck,
    Greg

    ditto what Greg said, i just got through a rifle refinishing job
    myself.
    
    Another thing you want to do is really use the stuff sparingly, don't
    use a rag or cloth to put it on with, use your fingers and the palm of
    your hand, and use many thin coats instead of only a few thick coats...
    
    based on the drying time i'd say you used it full strength and put it
    on much too thick.
    
    Fra

    I guess you guys called it correctly.  I used it full strength. 
    Though I thought I was using it sparingly, it obviously was too thick.
    I've taken your advice and thinned it.  It worked much better.  I'm
    suprised the direction on the bottle didn't even mention thinning.
    I have 3 coats on so far and it is starting to look pretty good.  How
    many coats should I be trying to put on it?  I'm running out of time,
    but I expect to get another coat or 2 on it.  Would that be enough?
    
    Thanks for your help,
    Mark
    

>    Don't use the hair dryer as Jim suggested in .11,  it will stir up a 
>    ton of dust and you'll kick yourself with every stoke of the steel 
>    wool.   8-)
    
    
    	Oops! hehe...:*} like I said, I haven't done this before.....
    
    

    Mark,
    
    Sorry for the delay in replying...  Weekend work has it's drawbacks..
    
    4 or 5 coats ought to be plenty for short term protection.  When you
    get near the 9th and 10th coat you'll understand the meaning of
    "Hand rubbed beauty". 8-)
    
    When you get back from the field, just give the stock a light buffing
    with 0000 steel wool and continue the applications where you left off.
    
    Good luck and enjoy the season,
    Greg

    Thanks.  I have 6 coats on it now and it looks pretty good.  I will
    add more later, but right now the gun is back together again, with a
    couple of rounds of skeet run through it.  It should be back in action
    tomorrow morning for the NH pheasant opener.  My lab and I can't wait!
    
    Mark,