T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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856.1 | give it a shot (pun intended) | LUDWIG::BING | Yes, I too am the NRA/GOAL | Wed Nov 14 1990 10:42 | 9 |
|
Cowboy, I've never done anything like this but I don't see why
it could'nt be done. If you have the tools give it a try. Since it
is a .22 (no recoil)you could probably use a blank piece of pine. The tools
you'll need will be a hammer, files, saw, chisel, vice, drill,
maybe a few other things plus lots of time. Why not give it a go
and let us know how it turned out.
Walt
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856.2 | | WAHOO::LEVESQUE | No artificial sweeteners | Wed Nov 14 1990 11:18 | 7 |
| I would never use pine. It's too soft, it warps, it's too knotty, and it
cracks very easily. If you dropped your gun forget it. If you really want
to make one from scratch (must be nice to have lots of free time) try using
a piece of well seasoned hardwood. Better yet, get a blank stock from a vendor
and just finish it.
The Doctah
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856.3 | | WJOUSM::PAPPALARDO | A Pure Hunter | Wed Nov 14 1990 12:00 | 7 |
|
Black-Walnut or if you want to try something local use Maple.
Maple was used in the 1800's on many, not all, muzzle-loaders.
Rick
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856.4 | | WJOUSM::PAPPALARDO | A Pure Hunter | Wed Nov 14 1990 12:01 | 3 |
|
Oh yeah, don't forget it must be kilin dried
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856.5 | | BRABAM::PHILPOTT | Col I F 'Tsingtao Dhum' Philpott | Wed Nov 14 1990 12:11 | 20 |
|
I'm not so sure about the kiln dried - most top grade stocks are made
from naturally dried wood (it sometimes takes 20 years to mature a
blank).
Commercially blanks are rough cut by means of a machine called a
duplicating router. I borrowed one a while back with a view to buying
one to make stocks, but decided I was over committed to get into that
work. Anyway you start with a fitted stock (the one you take off the
rifle) and use the duplicator to cut the blank so that it rough fits
the gun. You then duplicate as much of the outside of the new stock as
you want from the old one, which can be built up with modeling clay as
necesary.
Then you carefully finish the stock to your tastes...
Anyway you might do better asking in DELNI::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS as
it is more of a woodwork question than a guns question.
/. Ian .\
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856.6 | TKS | MPGS::GIFFORD | When nature calls you have to answer | Wed Nov 14 1990 13:24 | 5 |
| Thanks for all the responses. Ian, I'll do that, I don't know why I
didn't think of the woodworking file first.
Cowboy
|
856.7 | don't use junky wood | TOLKIN::KCROWLEY | | Thu Nov 15 1990 13:25 | 11 |
| My father did this for his side by side and it turned out great he
wrote to a dealer and they talked for awile he wound up giving my
father a nice piece of wood for half price. Remember if your going to
put alot of time in it get a good piece of wood not pine. after you do
it you can have your name or somthing meaningfull carved into it once
you cut the stock have a good gun dealer put it on the gun itself. You
can use the gun the hole time your sanding and filing it down ( time
consuming).It is something you can show poeple every time you go
shooting with it.
Kev
|
856.8 | Birch or Walnut | SA1794::BARTHELETTEJ | | Thu Nov 15 1990 19:43 | 14 |
| Another type of wood to consider using would be Birch, or Walnut.
Most of the medium to high quality stocks are typically Walnut,
and your lower priced guns often are Birch. For example in shotguns
a Remington Express-870 the stock is birch, and a Remington Wingmaster
sports a walnut stock.
Using kiln dried wood is a must, and must be kept and worked in
a reasonably dry, low humidity enviorment until it is done and a
sealer is put onto the stock.
Good Luck and Good Hunting,
<< Jeff >>
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856.9 | TKS | MPGS::GIFFORD | When nature calls you have to answer | Fri Nov 16 1990 10:38 | 10 |
| Thanks for all the replies. I think for now I'm going to try the
"extended" butt plate (recoil pad) idea. Making my own stock seems to
be more involved than I really want to get into for now. I may try it
later though.
Thanks again.
Happy shooting and good luck to everyone still hunting.
Cowboy
|