T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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100.1 | | BPOV09::PERRY | | Wed Dec 16 1987 12:40 | 24 |
|
Hi Linda,
Sounds like Freda is developing a sense of independence ! I like
to encourage this in all our pups providing they're out checking
out new areas and new things and are constantly on the move.
I think that maybe changing your training area is a good idea.
Sometimes a pup gets too aquainted with an area and feels too
independent. Sometimes if you bring them into a different area,
they will feel less confident and will oblige to their training
more readily. One thing that is common to most young dogs is the
fact that their owner is like their security blanket. If you
walk away from her, I'll bet that she will follow. She doesn't
want to be left alone especially if it's in an area that the pup
is not familiar with. I like to take pups into the woods and
do this kind of training. It helps them to learn to check in on
their own without constant handling. It's important that you
try to keep things in balance as you still want the dog to have
some sense of independence. One extreme is having a dog that is
glued to the handlers feet and the other extreme is having a dog
that is totally out on it's own.
pat.
|
100.2 | Teenagers? | CLUSTA::STORM | | Wed Dec 16 1987 15:15 | 10 |
| I had similair problems with my dogs that have lost interest in being
petted and praised around that age. It happened recently with my
lab, and to an even greater extent with other dogs I've had in the
past.
I wondered if it wasn't like the "teenager" phase people go through.
Fortunately, I kept at it and it eventually passed.
Mark,
|
100.3 | | LIONEL::SAISI | a | Mon Dec 28 1987 10:16 | 8 |
| What is the proper use of a check cord to reinforce the "come"
exercize? I have been practicing recalls around the house
and want to try it outside in a new area, but want to assure
success the first few times. I have a very light nylon cord,
about 30' long, but could cut it shorter.
Also does anyone know where I can get some dried bird wings?
Thanks,
Linda
|
100.4 | a suggestion | SMURF::JUCH | | Mon Dec 28 1987 14:41 | 9 |
| I'd try using a long (40') check cord on her. If she doesn't come,
enforce the command by pulling her in with the check cord. You
might then, after she has come to you and you've said "good dog"
or otherwise briefly praised her, immediately bring her into
heel. In other words, control her attention during the training
session. But, as others have said, keep the sessions short and
let her play when you're not training her. I would not come down
hard on her until after she is trained and you can tell she is
disobeying.
|
100.5 | dogs don't come with handles | SMURF::JUCH | | Mon Dec 28 1987 15:11 | 13 |
| what type of bird wings do you need? I might have some....
the check cord should be very pliant so the pup can drag it without
getting hung up. I like a dacron cord, as opposed to some of the
polypropylene or nylon ones, and I leave it in a mud puddle for
a few days so it softens up - a bucket of water will do. You can
get the pup used to a short cord first and then try thelonger one.
check cords are great. dogs don't come with handles.
Don't forget that you want to get the doc birdy at this age. obedience
traing should not be mixed with this - they will be brought together
when the dog is older.
|
100.6 | | LIONEL::SAISI | a | Mon Dec 28 1987 15:50 | 5 |
| I am looking for any type of bird wing that is dry enough
to keep, so that I don't have to freeze it. I used to have
a goose wing, but it got thrown away. I just want to introduce
her to retrieving feathers.
Linda
|
100.7 | | BPOV09::JAMBERSON | | Mon Dec 28 1987 15:53 | 4 |
| Hi Linda,
I've got goose, duck, and pheasent wings. Let me know what you
would like. I'll send them through the mail 8*).
Jeff
|
100.8 | | LIONEL::SAISI | a | Thu Jan 07 1988 11:56 | 18 |
| Here is my impression of the check cord as a training aid,
after using it about 4 sessions. I think it is very useful.
The dog did not seem to realize she had it on. I walked her
on a leash from the car to the field, and attached the cord
before unsnapping her regular leash, so she thought she was
free. The only drawbacks to it is that it did catch up on
things a few times when in cover (probably not a good idea
to use it in anything other than grass). Also I am embarassed
to admit that I stepped on it a couple of times and caught
her short by accident. I would worry that this would inhibit
the dog from running all out, but did not notice that she was
holding back. She also got it wrapped around her leg twice,
but that is probably good practice for if she ever gets caught
up in anything she knows to be still until I unwind her.
After three sessions I did not have to use it, even though
it was on.
Happy training!
Linda
|
100.9 | YATQ | LIONEL::SAISI | a | Tue Feb 02 1988 14:24 | 14 |
| Yet another training question. Is it a bad idea to let a
spaniel run rabbits? Someone told me that this is a hard
habit to break. Does anyone hunt their spaniels on both,
which it seems is common in England? I don't want to start
something which will interfere with bird training, but there
are more rabbits around my area (wooded) than birds. I am
trying to encourage my puppy to get out more, and she has
not come across enough birds to give her the idea.
I was going to plant some pigeons for her and then just let
them fly, but the source in 4.15 only gets them sporadically,
and I don't have training fever bad enough to start climbing
bridges or stand around in traffic with a 15' net (well Jeff,
I guess I just don't have what it takes).
Linda
|
100.10 | "depends?" | CLUSTA::STORM | | Tue Feb 02 1988 17:14 | 15 |
| I'm no expert, but I think it would depend on what you want the
dog to do in the field. If you don't want the dog to chase rabbits
when you are bird hunting, you should try to break it now. Personally,
I've been taking my Lab out looking for rabbits (but haven't found
a good area yet). If I got a rabbit while I was bird hunting, I
would just consider it a bonus. I've hunted quail with a rabbit
dog before and I don't see why one would interfer with the other
for a 'flushing' dog.
If you can get a couple of pigion, let the dog retrieve a few
wing clipped birds. That really got my Lab interested.
Good luck,
Mark
|
100.11 | Doggie won't fetch!! | AUGGIE::WFIELD | | Wed Aug 10 1988 11:15 | 23 |
| Well there hasn't been any discussion here for a while, so let's
see if anyone has any suggestions for the problem I'm having.
I have a 4 1/2 month old Lab that will not retrieve when he is outside.
I got him when he was 3 months old, and immediately started to play
retrieving games with him in the house (I toss a small bumper, he
gets it and brings it back). In the house he seems to love to do
this, but when I take him outside in the back yard he won't cooperate,
he runs right over to the bumper, then looks at it, makes a really
feeble attempt to pick it up, then wanders off. When he does this
I call him back, try rolling the bumper around with my foot to try
to get him interested again, but it never works, he just wanders
off again sniffing around. At first I thought that he was just to
excited from being outside, so I waited till we had been out for
15 or 20 mins before starting the game, this did not seem to work
either. He's doing great with his other training (sit, stay, come)
and only has to be shown what is expected a couple of times, so
I know he is capable of learning.
I would appreciate any suggestions anyone might have.
Thanks
Wayne Field
|
100.12 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Wed Aug 10 1988 13:09 | 16 |
| Hi Wayne,
I have the same situation with my cocker in that she will
retrieve a dummy readily in the yard, but out in the field
she would much rather keep hunting. So I am using dead
pigeons, which I keep in the freezer. You could try getting
a canvas dummy and putting scent on it. Or you may try
to get him interested by teasing him with it, running around
with it, and expressing great excitement over it, and
encourage him and make a big fuss when he picks it up.
It would do more harm than good to try to force him.
Make sure you are not overdoing the training by doing
too many retrieves. Maybe you could lay off for a few
days and then only give him one or two retrieves at a
time. I think that more than 5-6 in one session would
be too much for a dog of that age, but maybe not for a Lab.
Linda
|
100.13 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Wed Aug 10 1988 13:13 | 5 |
| Wayne,
I have also heard of taping or tying bird wings to a dummy
to try to get them interested, but have never myself tried
this.
Linda
|
100.14 | Remember, he's still a baby! | BPOV04::J_AMBERSON | | Wed Aug 10 1988 13:54 | 11 |
| Wayne,
Don't push the dog too hard at this age. If he is retrieving
in the house, you know he has the basic instinct. Are you doing
anything different when playing outside vs inside? Are you using
the same dummy? Make your retrieves very short. Get the pup hyped
before giving him the retrieve. When he gets to the mark, call
him in, praising him along the way. Don't give him more then a
couple of retrieves in any one session. Keep your sessions short,
and fun. Remember 4.5 mos is a _young_ dog.
Jeff
|
100.15 | | BPOV04::J_AMBERSON | | Wed Aug 10 1988 13:55 | 3 |
| Linda,
Did you ever get the wings I sent you???
Jeff
|
100.16 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Wed Aug 10 1988 14:05 | 5 |
| Jeff,
Yes I got them, but then didn't use them for a while and
moths got into them. Maybe I should have packed them in
napthalene?
Linda
|
100.17 | More info | AUGGIE::WFIELD | | Wed Aug 10 1988 15:46 | 21 |
| Sometimes he will make one retrieve, maybe two, sometimes I'll
toss the dummy and he'll take off in the other direction.
I always use the same dummy, indoors or out. He doesn't really seem
to like the feel of the dummy in his mouth, he usually picks it
up by the middle at first, but will drop it and pick it up several
times before he gets back to me. The dummy I use is a small plastic
one which is 2" diameter, and about 9 or 10 inches long (the smallest
I could find), and I only toss it 10 or 12 feet.
The first couple of times I played the retrieving
game with him I used a knotted sock because he was to small to pick
up much else. He really seems to like the sock much better, and
will pick it up outside better. Would it be reasonable to go back to
using the sock outside until he is performing reliably?
Should I just stick with the dummy? I always do his other training
indoors. Should I start doing his other training outdoors, then after
I have his attention try a few retrieves? This will be the first
dog that I have ever tried to train to hunt and I'm open to any
hints or suggestions.
Wayne
|
100.18 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Wed Aug 10 1988 16:06 | 9 |
| Since the point is to get him to like retrieving, I would use
whatever he prefers. If he likes the knotted sock, you could stuff
it with something and sew or tie one end. My cocker is the first
bird dog I have had, and I was eager to get on with training, but you
really have to give the dog time to develop, and not let him feel any
pressure as a puppy. Don't worry about form at this point.
Try to get him enthusiastic about chasing and carrying the retrieving
object around.
Linda
|
100.19 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Wed Aug 10 1988 16:07 | 4 |
| Wayne,
I have lots of puppy dummies and would loan you one to see if
he likes them. Just send me your mailstop.
Linda
|
100.20 | | BPOV02::J_AMBERSON | | Thu Aug 11 1988 10:36 | 13 |
| Wayne,
Linda's advice is good. don't worry about form at this stage
of the game. Turn him into a retrieving addict first! Use whatever
he likes for now. Make all your sessions short and sweet. If he
takes off with the dummy, ignore him. Don't chase him, ever! You
want him to realize that the only way you'll keep playing with him
is if he completes the retrieve. Don't worry about how he is carrying
the dummy. This is easy to work on later. Remember always that
he is till a baby. Keep his spirits up. All the sessions at this
age should be 90% play. No scolding. Try putting some scent on
the dummy. This will get him use to the smell of birds.
Jefff
|
100.21 | Try the plastic dummy inside | DELNI::G_FISHER | | Thu Aug 11 1988 13:20 | 7 |
| One other idea...I didn't read that you tried using the plastic
dummy inside. There are fewer distractions inside (no new scents,
butterflies, etc.). You may find that he'll do quite well.
Good luck
Guy
|
100.22 | puppy size dummies worked best for me | CLUSTA::STORM | | Thu Aug 11 1988 13:36 | 11 |
| When I was going through that with my Lab, I had the best luck with
one of the small canvas "puppy" size dummies and a little scent
on it as Linda suggested. I think the scent made it a little more
interesting to the pup and the smaller size was much easier for
her to handle.
You've got lots of time, so don't get discouraged.
Good luck,
Mark
|
100.23 | Some form problems... | BTO::REMILLARD_K | | Thu Aug 11 1988 14:39 | 50 |
|
Okay since everyone is interested in training these days (like Fall
is right around the corner) I have a few questions as well. I have
a 3 year old female yellow lab, I have done all of the training
myself, and have used her hunting ducks for 3 seasons. She is very
aggresive and very birdy.
I've started getting her back into formal training, with a few things
that I want to correct:
long blind retrieves (150-200yds) we lost some birds last year (steel
shot cripples) that went a long ways
during training (with dummies) she almost always drops the bird
as she circles behind me to heel, if I repeat the command HOLD,HOLD,
until she is at my side she's okay, but it hasn't seemed to sink
in
she hangs her head when she's at my side with the dummie in her
mouth, no matter how much I praise her, it seems she just wants
to do more and more...if I rub her chest and tell her she's good
she will slowly lift her head, but it bothers me to see her hang
her head. She also tries to avoid my hand when I go to take the
bird from her mouth.
What I have been doing:
For long blind retrieves; I drop an unused dummie in the marsh
grass as we walk down the beach and proceed 1-200yds away, mark
her, and work her to the bird. This has been working. She seems
to be getting more confidence.
Dropping the Dummie: I have tried repeating the command HOLD over
and over, as long as I'm not saying the words she usually drops
the bird, only to re-settle it in her mouth and come to my side,
it's not that she doesn't want to bring it to me, it's that she
wants to have the dummie centered in her mouth, and I think she
likes to shake without the dummie in her mouth. Should I be worried
about this, or is it a nit?
Hanging her head/moving it away from my hand: I have been telling
her she's good, praising her alot...stroking her chest, but she
just keeps hanging her head...this is another "form" problem, not
an actual performance problem, but as you can probably tell I expect
an awful lot from this dog, because I know she is capable.
thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Kevin
|
100.24 | | BPOV02::J_AMBERSON | | Thu Aug 11 1988 15:52 | 18 |
| Kevin,
A good dirll to teach the "hold" command is as follows. Have the
dog sit with dummy in his mouth. If he starts to lower his head
gently tap him under the chin and say "hold". Every time he lowers
his chin repeat the procedure. He should increase the duration
as you progress. You could also read up on force fetching a dog
if this becomes a real problem.
For blinds be careful that she's not following your track back
to the planted bird. Use a retriever trainer to plant the dummy
if this becomes a problem. Some dogs (mine) will back track your
footsteps to the blind. The RT eliminates this problem.. The other
alternative is to send him from a different angle.
Good luck
Jeff
|
100.25 | | BOMBE::BONIN | | Thu Aug 11 1988 16:19 | 12 |
| Re 17
I never use my plastic dummies because my dog hates working
with them. She just picks them up and drops em.
I've heard that this is quite common and I wouldn't regard it
as a problem with your dog or your training -- the knobby
plastic dummy is simply too hard. Try the soft canvas dummies;
they feel more like real birds.
Doug
|
100.26 | | LIONEL::SAISI | | Tue Aug 16 1988 10:53 | 7 |
| .23
My dog has the same tendency to drop the bird when going around
to the back, and 2 things that help are 1) attach a short leash
and give her a tug as she goes around to the back to keep her moving,
2) start walking and let her carry it at heel a couple of steps and
then take it from her.
Linda
|