T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1212.1 | | LEEL::LINDQUIST | Pluggin' prey | Tue Apr 04 1995 17:30 | 25 |
| �� <<< Note 1212.0 by FOUNDR::DODIER "Single Income, Clan'o Kids" >>>
�� -< Fiberglass boat building >-
�� Has anyone in here ever tried to build a fiberglass boat ? I was
�� just wondering what is used as a release agent so that the fiberglass
�� doesn't stick to the form.
There is a standard product for this 'mold release'. This
works great if you have a perfect mold, with a 'mirror'
finish -- either polished metal or gel coat.
I built a fiberglass tank, and used cardboard as the plug.
Mold release woulnd't have worked over the cardboard, as
it wasn't smooth enough.
I got a big chunk of wax, like the folks in the 60's used to
mold candles.
I melted the wax, and painted it on the mold. You can smooth
it with a a heatgun, or a flat piece of heated metal -- as
sort of a hot putty knife.
Cheap, and worked great.
Why build a boat? You won't save any money...
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1212.2 | Not just the money | FOUNDR::DODIER | Single Income, Clan'o Kids | Wed Apr 05 1995 10:47 | 9 |
| I was thinking of building a pontoon type paddle-wheel boat. They
run about $400 new at Sam's. I'm pretty sure I can build one for less
than that, but I also enjoy puttering with things like this.
After thinking about this, rather than use a form, I was thinking
of just building the pontoons out of built up styrofoam (sheets cut,
glued, and shaped) and then just fiberglass over it.
Ray
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1212.3 | | LEEL::LINDQUIST | Pluggin' prey | Wed Apr 05 1995 13:32 | 8 |
| �� After thinking about this, rather than use a form, I was thinking
�� of just building the pontoons out of built up styrofoam (sheets cut,
�� glued, and shaped) and then just fiberglass over it.
If you want to fiberglass over foam, you'll have to use epoxy
resin. Polyester resin will disolve the foam.
Epoxy resin is way more expensive than polyester resin.
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1212.4 | Fiberglas over Styrofoam Problems | STOWOA::KAUFFMAN | | Wed Apr 05 1995 15:18 | 5 |
| Careful! Polyester resin will damage Styrofoam, (melt or solvnet
attack). You can prevent this by using a barrier coat of epoxy resin
on the foam, ans let it cure. Then you cna put on traditional
fiberglass. You probably don't need mold release, as you are making
the actual part.
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1212.5 | Still just kicking the idea around | FOUNDR::DODIER | Single Income, Clan'o Kids | Wed Apr 05 1995 17:31 | 14 |
| I knew that I would need the epoxy resin. I wasn't aware that it
was *much* more expensive than the polyester resin. So what does a
gallon of epoxy resin go for, roughly ?
I priced out some of the items at Home Depot. The foam for the
pontoons will run me about $20. I was thinking about making the
body itself from PVC conduit with a pressure treated deck (either
plywood or 5/4 radius edged, covered with indoor/outdoor carpeting.
The PVC would run me about $30 and it's about $35 for PT plywood.
The drive-train will come mostly from used bicycle parts. With
other misc. things, I expect it will run me under $200.
Ray
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1212.6 | | UNIFIX::BERENS | Alan Berens | Thu Apr 06 1995 10:06 | 16 |
| re .4:
A word of caution: epoxy bonds well to cured polyester resin. Polyester
resin does not bond well to epoxy, so you'd probably should not try
covering the initial layer of epoxy with polyester.
re .5:
Epoxy resin is not inexpensive. There are many suppliers whose prices vary
somewhat, like $30 to $40 per gallon in 5 gallon pails. Price per gallon
is higher if you buy only a gallon or two. You could well use several
gallons. You might want to read one of the introductory books on
fiberglass boatbuilding before buying supplies. The one I have gives
estimates of how much resin is needed for various layups.
Alan
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1212.7 | And now for something completely different | FOUNDR::DODIER | Single Income, Clan'o Kids | Thu Apr 06 1995 10:16 | 29 |
| I got another thought I was sort of kicking around. If I put a
board across the front and back, from pontoon to pontoon like so -
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...and placed it on back sloping angle, this would create a big air
bubble for additional flotation. More importantly, I was thinking that
if I did this, I could try drilling a hole just large enough to stick
my leaf blower in.
If I put the boat on a flat surface and could get it to create an
air bearing (i.e. Hovercraft), this would be one wild paddle-wheel boat.
The other thought I had was that since one of the bikes that I'm going
to use is a 10 speed, I may try to utilize the derailers.
On a normal paddle-wheel boat I would expect the derailers to be
nearly useless. Once the optimal gear is found there'd be little
benefit to being able to shift gears, but on a near frictionless
vehicle...hmmmmm.
Ray
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1212.8 | Just a caution... | SUBPAC::CRONIN | | Thu Apr 06 1995 12:14 | 10 |
|
Please be aware that along with the various chemicals that are
needed to both do the work and the appropriate solvents for clean-up
you also have the responsibility of proper storage and disposal of
all this stuff.
B.C. (who used to build fiberglass boats
and can't understand why anybody would
play with this stuff if they don't
-have- to.)
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1212.9 | OK, I'm awake now :-) | FOUNDR::DODIER | Single Income, Clan'o Kids | Thu Apr 06 1995 12:21 | 12 |
| re:-7
Please excuse my last reply. I have some strange thought processes
before my morning coffee ;-)
I have done some fairly extensive body work using polyester resin
and fiberglass cloth. I know what a pain this stuff can be to work with.
I typically use cheap brushes and throw them away rather than clean them.
For a project this size, I'll likely use rubber gloves and throw them
away when done also.
Ray
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