| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1172.1 | time to rebuild the carb? | SMURF::AMATO | Joe Amato | Tue Jun 14 1994 11:05 | 6 |
| Bruce
Are you still using the valvtec? It could be time for a carb rebuild,
how many hours on the engine?
Joe
|
| 1172.2 | | NACAD::SWEET | | Tue Jun 14 1994 12:43 | 6 |
| Yup use the valvtec all the time. I'm hoping the answer is not the
carb rebuild but it is pointing that way. Engine hours are tough to
estimate but figure a min of 800 hrs up to 1100 maybe. The carb was
rebuilt in the winter of 89/90.
Bruce
|
| 1172.3 | Try points, then expert. | SALEM::LAYTON | | Wed Jun 15 1994 08:15 | 15 |
| I had a car that bogged at about that RPM due to defective points. The
car ran OK for a week or so, then started acting up. Before I went
ahead and rebuilt the carb, I decided to bring it to my mechanic
friend; he has a Sun engine analyzer. He took one look and said
"Points."
But more likely yours is a carb problem. Most carbs have three
circuits; idle, mid-range, and high speed. A good carb guy (if you can
find such a thing) can adjust/repair just the mid-range circuit.
If there's any way to get it on one of those computerized engine
analyzers (or, more likely, get the analyzer aboard!), you can
save yerself a chunk of money and time.
Carl
|
| 1172.4 | not the carb | NACAD::SWEET | | Tue Jun 21 1994 14:35 | 8 |
| The saga continues. I pulled off the carb and had it rebuilt.
The problem pursists. It seems to only miss behave once the engine
is warm and I run at a fast idle (800-1000rpm) after running up
at higher revs. It is starting to point back to an electrical problem
and I guess the coil is the next suspect since it has signs of a
temperature sensivity. Other suggestions?
Bruce
|
| 1172.5 | brittle wire going to the coil???? | KAOU93::BROUILLARD | Can the fox outrun the rabbit | Fri Jun 24 1994 15:55 | 8 |
| Make sure to check wiring going to the coil. I had a ford 351
losing power when the motor was warmed up and after spending
a few $$$ in the shop without any success I took it upon myself
to find the problem which was the positive cable going to the coil.
I guess after being exposed to heat and cold it got brittle and crack.
My 2 cents.
Pascal (ontario)
|
| 1172.6 | Plug or coil wire, insulation breaking down | TRIGG::VOGEL | Steve Vogel - Workgroup/Messaging Sales Spec | Fri Jun 24 1994 16:11 | 7 |
| I have also seen problems that are only visible at night. IE: the coil
wire or plug wire(s) that are arcing to the engine block, especially
when the humidity is high (like around water). You could clearly see
the arc after dark but it was unnoticable during the daylight.
/Steve
|
| 1172.7 | I think I've got it! | 4370::SWEET | | Mon Jun 27 1994 10:06 | 16 |
| I think the problem is solved. After having replaced and tesed most
every associated with fuel or electric I went back and started
to recheck and replaced the new components I put in in April.
Even though the dwell was right and the points were only 3 months
and less than 100 hours old I found some black/grey singe marks
on the end and put a new set in. I also put new plugs in again
(I went back to champion instead of AC) and change the fuel/water
seperator. The plugs did still look new, the filter was 98% gas
(very clean compared with usual after a season of use). Things ran
fine (like it used to but better with a clean carb) so I think it
was a bad set of points. Haven't got a clue why but the theory
is somehow they were shorting in that small rpm range at temperature.
Thanks for all the help...
Bruce
|