Conference vicki::boats

    
    Sounds like you need the support of a person by the name of Rick
    Wilson. 
    
    Bob
    
    p.s. I would say it is seized...........
    

Unless your totally familiar with dealing with a seiaed motor,

best you have someone look at it. Tugging etc, could break off a ring

and now you really have a problem.  Call Rick Wilson.

JIm

    
    Rick Wilson???
    
    how can a motor seize if it has not been used?
    
    Gary

    	Depending on what the motor's worth to you (i.e. if not much) you
    can try to fix it yourself. I've had success with lawnmower and a
    motorcycle engine seized the same way.
    
    	Remove the head to gain access to the piston (this is where
    2-strokes are easier) and pour a healthy portion of Marvel Mystery oil
    directly in the cylinder. Let it soak for a day or two, then take a
    block of wood and a mallet and try to move the piston.
    
    	The ring/s may or may not break. If it breaks, you'll need to pull
    the cylinder and take it to be bored and/or honed and get a replacement
    piston and ring/s. Sometimes, the hardest part is just getting the head
    off, especially if it has been run in the salt.
    
    	Good luck.....Ray

    
    If it's not used that doesn't mean that it cannot collect moisture in
    the cylinders which in turn can cause the piston to seize in the
    cylinder. The moisture will cause rust, which will fill the gap between
    the walls of the piston and the cylinder.It can also buildup around
    the rings on the piston and cause the rings to seize. 
    
    If you are mechanically inclined, you will have a small project on your
    hands which would probably not cost you much money, as long as you can
    get parts.
    
    good luck,
    
    Bob

    I would sit the motor so that the spark plug hole faces upwards.
    Remove the spark plug, spray a couple of tablespoons worth of Marvel
    Mystery Oil into the spark plug hole, then wait 1 week.  After 4 days
    try a little tugging each day.  
    
    If that does not do it you will need to open the motor up...  Mark
    

    re .3
    
      Come on over my house and I'll show you a motorcycle engine that
    seized while sitting from rust. Took tons on penetrating oil and a 
    homebuilt press to yank each cylinder.
    
      

I  thought of something.  In the past i have used a product called

"Break Away"  ifn fact is still use it. ,Mystery Oil don't come

close to this stuff. In fact i havnt found anything else that does.

I got it at Consumer Auto Parts.

I'd suggest you spray a healthy dose in the cylinder while the plug

hole is facing the sky.  It doesn't take long to work.

After spraying a good dose wait about 30 minutes, don't yank on the

cord, instead, take a screwdriver and slowly without any unnecessary

effort turn the flywheel with the screwdriver.

If this is successfull then use the pull cord to work the oil around.

After this i would pour a generous amount of mystery oil into the cylinder

and work it aound for a bit.

After this fire it up, but dont go beyond idle for awhile, let 

everything work itself back to normal, including the bearings.


Hey Wayne, how did the Bread-Away work???????????


JIm

    The stuff is great, Jim.  I even used it doing some car exhaust work
    where I would normally get out the hacksaw without even trying the
    bolt.  I still haven't had a chance to work on the thermostat housing
    on the boat motor, yet (what I bought the stuff for).  Working
    Saturdays thru the end of the quarter kinda put the bite on launching
    the boat until July.  Besides, the visegrips and C clamps keep the
    broken side tight enough so it doesn't leak :-).  
    
    I agree with you on the piston if Marvel Mystery oil doesn't work
    first.  I had two antique cars with frozen flathead motors.  The Marvel
    Mystery oil freed them after only 15 minutes.  If Break Away becomes
    necessary, I would certainly add Marvel just as soon as the piston
    moved at all.  I would assume that Break Away was not designed as a 
    good lubricating film, more of a rust breaker.  Would it make any
    difference to either heat the pwer head somehow to get it to expand
    away from the piston?  Assuming it's aluminum, it wouldn't take much.
    Wayne

    Do not assume that because it is seized, it is the top end.
    When my Merc 4.5 was found to be seized up after 6 months of storage
    (over 1 winter) it was the lower end. Water had gotten into the lower
    end and turned the lower end into a mass of rusted gears and bearings.
    
    This how I learned the hard way to change my lower unit oil at the end
    of the season rather than in the spring.
    
    Bill
    

How about draining the lower unit to examine for water content.

If water is there then it changes this quite a bit.  If not we're back 

to the original plan.

JIm

    An earlier entry suggested pulling the head off.  Why?  He can gain
    access through the plug(s) hole(s).  Only if the break away/Marvel
    Mystery Oil trick doesn't work would he need to pull the head.
    
    Yes, its siezed allright. All it take is a bit of moisture.  Thats
    why the manufacturers suggest a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder 
    or fogging before storage.
    
    Jeff

    re:Pulling the head
    
    	The reason I suggested it is that I was never lucky enough to have
    it break free by turning it over after soaking. I always wound up having 
    to pound on the piston with a block of wood and a mallet. 
    
    	If you can break it free without pulling the head, than you're ahead
    of the game. Certainly worth a try.
    
    	Ray