| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1165.1 | Disconnect from engine | GUCCI::HERB | New Personal Name coming soon! | Thu Apr 21 1994 08:46 | 2 |
| Try disconnecting the engine end of the cable to make sure the problem
is in the control box, not in the engine linkage.
|
| 1165.2 | Trouble shooting throttle | ISLNDS::WALSH | | Thu Apr 28 1994 13:54 | 18 |
| Hi John,
I've had similar problems with an I/O throttle control. Is the
throttle cable adjustable at the linkage end? Maybe the cable needs
a minor adjustment. Do you have 2 cables, one for the carb and the
other for the lower unit? If you do, you could try disconnecting
the throttle cable from the carb and see if you can shift and engage
the lower unit in fwd and reverse to determine it that cable and
system are working. Maybe the lower unit is not working, the cables
need adjusting, or the shifter linkage/roler bearing inside the
shifter, (that won't come apart, now I know that I'm not alone!),
slipped. Maybe the carb linkage is binding, or maybe the cable is
corroded and you might free it with liquid wrench. If you need
parts, Green Pond Marina in Conn. has parts for older boats and they
are very knowledgeable too, (201) 697-7459. Hope it is a quick fix
and your out enjoying the water soon! Rgds, Henry
|
| 1165.3 | TC-III NEED NO ADDITIVE FOR CARBON BUILD-UP. | DNEAST::SLADE_DICK | | Fri Apr 29 1994 08:51 | 8 |
| TC III IS NOW RECOMMENDED FOR ALL MOTORS OVER 25 HP. IT HAS AN
ADDITIVE TO PREVENT CARBON BUILD UP. TC-II DOES NOT HAVE THIS ADDITIVE
AND IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU BY THE ADDITIVE AND USE REGULARLY.
THIS INFO CAME FROM DOVER MARINE IN N.H. WHERE I RECENTLY BOUGHT A NEW
30 H.P. EVINRUDE.
HOPE THIS HELPS. RGDS DICK
|
| 1165.4 | | WRKSYS::JMORGAN | | Fri Apr 29 1994 13:06 | 11 |
| The system does have two cables, one for the carbs and one for the
lower unit. The cable going to the carbs works fine but I cannot get
the lower unit cable to go back to nuetral ie: its stuck in forward.
The problem happened when the motor was off. Does the motor have to be
running in order to get it back into nuetral? The only other thing it
could be is something slipped out of alignement in the throttle control
unit but after looking at the book there doesn't seem to be much in the
throttle unit that could slip out of place. I am going to fire up the
motor and see if it will go back into nuetral with the motor running.
John
|
| 1165.5 | Lower unit shifter | ISLNDS::WALSH | | Fri Apr 29 1994 17:52 | 11 |
| Hi John,
My lower unit shifter has an external piston with brake fluid. The
piston linkage is adjustable to work with the cable. Also, the lower unit
on my I/O works on hydrolic pressure/fluid to shift. Once the pressure
is built up in the line the unit shifts even with the engine not
running. JUST IN CASE if you do run your engine make sure you use a
water cooling boot with your garden hose. I ruined my water pump once
by running my engine for a few seconds without water in the lower
unit!!! The rubber impeller disentegrates fast!!!! Good luck
troubleshooting!!! Regards, Henry
|
| 1165.6 | Two cables involved to the shifter | RENEWL::URBAN | | Mon May 02 1994 11:10 | 25 |
| If your shifter is like mine, there is a cable that runs from the handle to
the shifting plate/cam mechanism and then another that goes from this
spot down and out of the boat to the I/O unit. That second cable is
'more' likely to be the problem since it sits in water, rusts etc.
Disconnect the cable from the throttle off of the plate assembly. You
should be able to (a) work the throttle handle and see if you get smooth
(and enough) travel on that section. Then try to work the section that
connects the plate to the I/0 for travel and smooth operation. IF it is
a corroded cable you sill discover it quickly. Just be careful to mark the
locations of the adjusters so that you can put if back together and maintain
the neutral cutoff switch and reverse/tilted lockout in proper alignment.
If both of these are free and have enough travel, remove the outdrive and
manually check the shifting on the I/O unit itself. WHile youre at it, you
can grease the Universals, check the bellows, eyeball the gimble bearing
and regasket/retorque the I/O. Fun stuff and good PM anyway.
Good luck
Tom
(ps) If it is the cable that goes from the shift plate to the I/O forget
trying wd-40 or otherwise 'unsticking' it. I went that route and
ended up having to replace it anyway!
|
| 1165.7 | Throttle is fixed | WRKSYS::JMORGAN | | Mon May 02 1994 13:38 | 26 |
| I was able to get the throttle unit off this weekend and after that it
only took about 30 minutes to fix the problem (helps when you can see
whats going on). The problem was simply old grease and crap that has
been building up over the years. The system has two cables, one for
the throttle and one to shift forward/reverse. The throttle cable runs
on a separate cam from the shift cable because it can operate
independently of the main throttle/shift control via the warm-up lever.
Both cam are connected to each other via a pin throttle cam that runs
in a slot on the shift cam, this is where the problem occurs. The
grease in the slot when it gets old turns into a black paste and the
pin gets stuck at the very top to the travel (the flat spot of a
circle) just before hitting nuetral. I guess it could occur coming out
of reverse into nuetral as well but being that this we don't use
reverse nearly as much the grease doesn't tend to wear as bad. Anyway
after cleaning, repacking with grease ( and I put grease on anything
that moves including all the screws) is all back together working like
new. Its amazing what a little cleaning and fresh grease will do.
The problem with the getting the unit off the boat was because the
installation was performed incorrectly. Some cheap bolts were used
instead of aluminum or SS and corrected to the alumunum case. I will
need to drill the out and replace with SS.
Thanks for the help.
jm
|