Conference vicki::boats

    Mark,
A little straightforward "hotrodding" is what's in store for you.  As 
I'm sure you know, an engine is essentially an air pump; the more you
can make it pump, the more power you'll get.

Unfortunately, with the standard exhaust in a boat, you're somewhat 
limited on the exhaust side of the "pump" as to what you can do.  But
you can optimize everything else that's there, and squeeze out a little
more power.  

You should probably start off by checking with a Volvo Marine dealer, 
on the availability of a 2 or 4 barrel carb and manifold.  This stuff 
ain't gonna be cheap, I'll guarantee you that!  Be sure to get the marine
carb for safety reasons.

One of the most effective (and cheapest) things you can do to your motor, 
is just make sure everything is working *exactly* as it should.  Basically, 
a "blueprint" job of all the tuneup specs. If the valves are adjustable,
be sure they're on the money.  Make sure the ignition is fully tuned up, 
timed properly, and that you're getting *full* advance at max rpm.  Make 
sure the carb is actually getting wide open throttle.  If the boat is running
OK now with no pinging or knocking, you may be able to advance the timing 
a few degrees.  Sometimes, running premium gas and advancing the timing a 
little beyond the factory spec will increase power and mileage enough to 
more than make up for the extra cost of the premium gas.  Avoid pinging or 
knocking at all costs though - it is fatal to a marine engine.

Next, make sure you've got the correct prop for your boat, and that it's
in perfect condition.  There are lots of performance props for Merc's and
OMC's I don't know about availability for your Volvo. Again, check with the 
dealer.  There are other topics in this file that may help you with prop 
selection.  You need to know your current top speed and rpm before making
any changes.  You also need to decide if you want to increase top speed
or acceleration, because most prop changes will improve one, but may 
negatively affect the other.

Once you've upgraded the intake, blueprinted the tuneup specs, and selected
the right prop, you're about maxed out unless you want to get inside the 
motor.  There are generally high performance cams available, the head can
be milled for extra compression, ported for better breathing etc. Unfortunately,
almost all of those things have negative side effects, like a loss of low end
power, reduction in fuel mileage, pinging, etc.  They are also expensive, and 
may reduce engine life too.  Before digging into the engine, you may want to 
explore the possibility of an engine swap, say to a 4.3L V6.  It will be 
faster, more reliable, and maybe cheaper too.

As far as the reliability of your drive unit, that shouldn't be a problem
with a few simple upgrades to the 4 cylinder.  You're probably talking about
an increase of no more than 20% at best, keeping you at around only 150hp.
Swapping to a larger engine may be a problem with your present drive, but 
a Volvo dealer can provide better advice.

Rick

    Thanks for the info....
    
     The prop I have on there is pretty decent. It's got a couple of small
    nicks in it. I have a spare that has never been put on. I just got the 
    boat last year and didn't want to wreck the new prop. I'll try a swap
    and see what a difference it makes. Right now I think the prop is
    closely matched to the motor. I get full RPM at wide open throttle. If
    I do add any HP, should I go with a larger pitched prop ? I really
    don't need more speed just would like it to pull to a plane quicker
    when pulling a tube or skier.
     The motor ran good last year. I was told it had a full tune-up before
    it was put up for the winter. I will try advancing the timing a little.
    How many degrees is what I'm not sure of. 2-4 sound right ? I know that 
    pinging is self-destructive to all motors so I usually run the good
    stuff 92 octane.
     I'll call the Volvo dealer about the intake and just for heck of it
    I'll ask about a 6 cyl. Does anyone know of anyplace other than the
    dealer to get an intake/carb ect...?
    
    Thanks again,
    Mark. 

    As luck would have it, I have a 4 Cyl VOLVO and it's rated at 135 H/P
    -- They have 2 2 Barrel carbs on it to get there -- My guess is that
    your 125 HP will get to 135 with this standard configuration.
    
    I cam across a marine mechanic who alleged that the Volvo 4 cyl is
    really a Ford mustang engine in drag.   He also gave me the name of a
    "Salvage Dealer" isTexas who ships anywhere -- Of course, I can't find
    the name -- Must be in a jacket pocket somewhere --
    
    Volvos are expensive hunks of metal -- If you want to throw money at
    the project, I'd look around for a motor/outdrive combo that needs a
    rebuild -- I'd start from there -- Of course your transom will probably
    need to be done -- Did you consider selling the boat and buying what
    sets you free?
    
    Cap'n Ahab

    I don't have any details, but a couple of years ago a friend up'd his
    Volvo 4 cylinder 120HP to 140HP via a "kit". It contained a new carb
    and a new (different) cam, plus gaskets and other minor stuff. This was
    available from Volvo-Penta to the best of my recollection.
    
    Might be worth a call to your dealer......steve

re: .3
>> I cam across a marine mechanic who alleged that the Volvo 4 cyl is
>> really a Ford mustang engine in drag.  

I'd look for a new marine mechanic if I were you.

OMC is the only major I/O mfg'er that's used the Ford 2.3L motor.  OMC
and Mercury also both have used the GM 2.5L and 3.0L motors, either now 
or in the past.

Volvo uses GM blocks for their V-6 and V-8 applications, but uses their
*own* motors for the 4 cylinder applications.  To my knowledge, they have
*never* used the Ford 2.3 and put a Volvo label on it.  Why would they?
I happen to like Fords, but having owned three Ford cars with the 2.3L,
I don't see why ANYONE would put their own private label on that motor
and claim it as their own...   8^)

Rick

    In search of Horsepower.....(aren't we all)
    
    Seeing how the original note is directed at getting a better pull out
    of the hole with a skier I would suggest a cheaper alternative. A Doel
    Fin. Under $50, worked great on my I/O boat, or a smaller pitch prop.
    
    The problem as I see it with bumping the hp is this....
    
    Horsepower is a function of torque @ an rpm range. Boosting the
    horsepower usually means making more torque (cubic inches) or shifting
    the peak torque up the rpm range. For pulling a skier, you need low end
    torque, unless you've installed a stall converter on your I/O unit :^)
    more high end torque isn't really going to help you. 
    
    I don't doubt that a 2 bbl carb & intake will give you more hp. But
    will it be usable, and at what $$$ expense. This is why I can't
    emphasize enough get the biggest engine you can for what your needs
    are. You can pump a lot of money into a making a little engine act like
    a big engine, but when you're all done and out of money, you still have a
    small engine.  There ain't no substitue for cubic inches.
    
    I have a 350 cid/260 hp inboard. I talked with someone who has the same
    basic boat as I, only he spent $1k to make his a Magnum 350. Larger
    exhaust manifolds/riser, new cam, different ignition, etc. When all was
    said and done he gained 0.5 mph in his top end, no noticeable
    difference in pull out of the hole. Had he bored the engine over he
    might have gained some performance, and sunk more money.
    
    If you like the boat you have, try a Doel fin or a smaller pitch prop. If
    you really think you 'need' more oommph then sell and upgrade to a
    bigger engine.
    
    ~jeff  

     I just called Marine USA and they gave me a number to call about Volvo
    parts. They said they didn't really deal with Volvo, which was a little
    strange since they advertise they do in the Yellow pages. Anyways they
    gave me a number for Dipetro-K 800-242-1786 (I think they're in RI),
    and I asked if they had a 2 barrel carb/intake for the motor I have. He
    said he would check on it and give me a call back. 
     
     RE.-1 I think I will try a Doel Fin. I just read the note about them 
    (note 173) and people seem to say they work. E&B has them for 29.99
    which is cheap enough. 
    
    Thanks for the suggestion!
    
    Mark
    
    

re  .6

	Right,   also....

	Avoid winter weight gain,  don't use a short ski,  don't use a
narrow ski,   use hight lift / low drag water,  fill the dry suit with 
helium.....

	Reg

    Sell it and look for one with a 6 cyl and the three carbs (its called
    an AQ170). You should be able to find this in a 18' V-hull Glastron for
    about $3,000 or less and this boat is fast has torque and is cheap.
    
    I bought mine for $1800.w/trailer due to water in the oil which turned out
    to be a simple $100. seawater pump rebuild. (of course I found that out
    after buying a cylinder head and re-doing it!

    If you like the boat, and need to come out of the hole faster, check
    and see if you can convert your drive into a duo-prop.  The really
    work.  I have twin 4.3l Volvo duo-props in my boat and love them.
    
    Dave