Conference vicki::boats

    RE: .0
    Robert,
    	Not sure if they still make it, but Sears did indeed make something
    to allow one person to load the boat.
    	It attached either to the rear bumper or to a hitch, I'm not sure
    which.  Worked something like this:  You would bring the stern of the
    boat to the back of the car.  With the boat upside down you lift the
    stern and clamp it in place in the Whatever-you-want-to-call-it.  Next
    you lift the stern of the boat up to roof height and it latched in
    place (I think) or you clamped it.  Next you pick up the bow of the
    boat and carry it around to the front of the car and set it on the
    racks.  The rear holder pivots as you walk in your 12' radius to the
    front.  I'm not sure if you even needed a rear roof rack or if the
    rear support was enough.
    	I've seen people of all ages use them but never really paid close
    attention to it.
    	Check the Sears Boating Catalog...  Don't even bother calling the
    store about it, you probably already know more about it than they do...
    
    					B.C.

I cartopped a 12' fiberglass boat for two years with one of these. When
you buy it, they assume that you already have a trailer hitch on the car.
You remove the ball from your (existing) hitch, and the bottom end of the
2" pipe has a 1" (or so) threaded portion that drops into the hole
vacated by your removed trailer ball. Then you screw on the nut they
supply, and the 2" pipe is secure. 

The top of the pipe has a transom clamp similar to small outboard
engines, except that it points up. As the previous reply said, you drop
the inverted stern of the boat into this clamp and tighted it down. You
need *one* roof rack bar, for the front of your roof. The bow of the boat
goes on that bar. Then, you toss a tiedown strap over the boat, connected
from one side of the roof rack bar to to the other. I also used to pass a
line from the bow to the front bumper of the car.

I've also seen an offset bar, which allowed you to have BOTH your trailer
ball AND the cartop loader at the same time.

I bought mine from Sears. I've seen new ones on cars recently, so they're
being sold somewhere.

Art

    My 2-year-old Sears Marine catalog lists the one person cartop 
    carrier for $46.90.  Part number is 6 AV 62966.
    
    As mentioned in the previous note, you need to have a trailer 
    hitch on the car and one roof rack bar to use it.
    
    Rick

    thanks for the info. For $50 bucks, it might be worth buying instead
    of building.
    
    			Robert.

    Hmmmm... After taking a closer look at my station wagon, I realized
    that I wouldn't be able to open the rear hatch if I put one of those
    Sears cartoppers on. Looks like its back to the drawing board!
    
    				Robert.

If you have no other viable alternatives, consider this. When I had a
large pickup camper and a small boat trailer, I could not see the boat at
all behind the rig. I could pull it to a lake, but couldn't back down a
launch ramp. So I bought a trailer hitch which clamped on the FRONT
bumper of my pickup. I'd go to the lake, unhook the trailer, then turn
the truck around and hook the trailer to the hitch on the front of the
truck. I would then drive down the ramp, "pushing" the trailer ahead of
me.  It worked for me for three years (then I sold the pickup camper).

The point is, they make clamp-on trailer hitches that can go on a front
bumper. You might consider putting one on the FRONT of your station
wagon. So what if the boat goes down the road transom-first?

    RE: .5, another alternative...
    By adding a second roof bar, given that the boat can be lifted at one
    end easily enough, perhaps having two roof racks to support the boat
    would allow you to disconnect the swivel rig when not actually in use,
    allowing access through the tailgate.  When traveling, however, having
    the boat's stern supported is appealing.
    
    This discussion is most interesting to me, as I have 120-lb 16' double
    sliding seat rowing wherry that does fine on the roof, but is a bear
    for me to get on and off alone.  Even with my petite wife at the
    lighter end, it's a significant challenge.  This rig with a set of
    launching wheels might be just the ticket....
    
    J.

    re: .last
    
    Yeah, the only problem I see is that the bar on the cartopper is
    connected via a large nut. It would probably be too much of a pain
    to disconnect/reconnect with every use. I'm considering building one
    which would pivot at the base, allowing access when you take the boat
    down. B.C. (re: .1) has suggested some other alternatives which would
    be quite a bit easier to implement.
    
    			Robert.

    How about buying a small trailer, Calkins used to sell a DIY "Z" 
    trailer in a box, cheap.
    
    I cartopped a jon boat years ago.  It started out ok, but after awhile
    it wound up being way too much of a pain.  I wound up having to carry
    around the outboard, gas tank, battery, trolling motor, cooler/livewell,
    tackle boxes, rods, etc, etc... It took me half an hour to load the
    thing up.  A trailer made life MUCH easier.
    
    -donmac

    Actually, using a trailer is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
    
    			Robert.

    RE: #9  Calkins trailer
    
    	Where would you find more information on a DIY "Z" trailer ?
    	This a catalog item or are they stocked in N.E. ?
    	How much is 'cheap'?
    
    Harlan

    
    	Sears used to sell them in Kit form, and I know that Boat U.S. has
    them try the Waltham store and West Marine used to, call the Peabody
    store.  I suspect none of these folks will have them in stock.  Give
    them a call and they should be able to help you....  The price for a
    14' one is around $300 or so....
    
    
    Forrest

    I got one at Greene's Marine in Hooksett NH, maybe 6 years ago.  It 
    was less than $300, two something...  might be three something now,
    assuming they stil make it...
    
    -donmac
    

    ok. I'm reconsidering the trailering option. The big question is,
    would I be foolish to tow a small (12') boat w/ 6-8 hp motor behind
    a Ford Escort wagon? Boat/motor/trailer package can't weigh much more
    than 350 lbs. What kind of problems could I expect?
    
    			Robert.

After helping to lug some jon boats around this weekend, I'd say your
decision not to car-top is a good one.  Unless the Escort is really 
tired or you've grossly underestimated the weight of you rig, I think 
you'll do fine.  I believe Escorts are rated for 1000 lbs, so even if 
your rig weighs 500#, you're well within the towing limit.

About the only thing you should watch out for, is backing your front
wheel drive car down a steep non-paved launch. Especially if you have
a standard transmission.  The weight transfers to the rear wheels, and
with no traction you'll spin the wheels and/or fry the clutch. In that
situation, either just carry the boat down to the water, or make sure
there's someone around to help pull you out.  Having people sit on the
hood of the car helps too.

Rick

    thanks Rick. I'm sure I'm not underestimating the weight of the rig
    Walking the whole thing down steep/slippery ramps should work out
    fine.
    
    			Robert.

    Years ago I trailered a 14' aluminum w/ 9.9hp behind am escort for
    awhile.  I'm pretty sure I was well over 500lbs.  I found that
    after a season of towing behind the escort I started going thru
    wheel bearings.  BTW, I towed ALOT.  I used to fish 3-4 times 
    a week back then.  I eventualy traded in the escort and got a 
    toyota 4x4, which didn't even know that rig was back there. 
    
    Go for it with the escort. Worse case in a year or so you'll have 
    to get a better tow vehicle, which will allow you to start looking at
    your next BOAT!
    
    it's a vicious circle...
    
    -donmac

    Yep - I'm already thinking of the next boat! I had to get rid of my
    Toy 4X4 (due to an addition to the family - couldn't carry 3 in the
    cab). Perhaps when my wife needs a new car, I'll convince her to get
    a full size truck!
    
    			Robert.

    I've been looking around for a trailer for a 14' tin boat and thought 
    I'd post the information:
                                                             
    (Greater Maynard Area)
    
    Vendor			Comments		Price
    -------			--------		-----
    Boats US			kit/galvanized		394
    				not in stock
    				899-2000
    
    Russo marine		ezloader		450
    				395-0050
    
    Tropicland Marine		not sure if		369
    				galvanized
    				329-3777
    
    Goose Hummock		closed for winter
    
    Sears			600lb capacity		499
    				(very unclear)
    
    West marine			clakins			425
    				508 5357332
    
    Greene Marine		galvanized		349
    				603-485-5131
    
    So far, the prices are still more than I'm interested in paying.
    Anyone with another suggestion ?
    
    
    Harlan

    Harlan,
    The price you got from Greene's is about the best you're going
    to find for a *new* 14' galvanized trailer.  If you really knock
    yourself out, you may find something for 25 bucks less, but that's
    about it.
    
    About the only other option, is to find a used one. Since you're
    going to be using the boat in salt (I have inside info, I sold 
    Harlan the boat) you really need to stick with galvanized.  You're 
    not going to save a heck of a lot though, good used painted 14'
    trailers are about 200 bucks and up.  Galvanized 14' trailers, 
    because they don't really deteriorate, are up near 300, even used. 
    That's *if* you can find one.  Check the ads in note 3. You'll 
    find that *everyone* is looking for 14' boat trailers, and 12-14'
    aluminum boats.  Good ones are like hen's teeth. You may just end
    up with a new one...
    
    Rick

    
    
     Last spring I spent a lot of time looking for a
    cheap used trailer- I'd have had more luck finding
    the easter bunny :-)
    
     I bought the one from Greenes & it's great. Drive in-
    drop a check & drive off with a new trouble free trailer.
    
    chet
    
    

    As one who lives not too far from Greene's Marine and one who has
    bought lots of stuff there (2 canoes, 1 outboard) and lots of lesser
    stuff -and used their service dept a few times, I would recommend them
    without reservation, if you go the new route.
    
    Bill
    
    p.s. Say hi to Bert for me.

    re: Where is Greene's located?
    
    			Robert.

    Greene's is on Rte 28 in Hooksett N.H. (next town north of Manchester)
    almost to the Allenstown Line (north end of Hooksett).
    
    Rt 28 is also known as D.W. Highway (as it leaves Manchester, anyway)
    
    About the easiest way is to take I93 to Rt 28 N. on the Manchester
    Hooksett line - it is probebly a good 5 miles north of there, right
    on the West side of Rt 28. with a big tall sign, pretty much by istelf.
    
    P.s. They are not open Friday nights any more, but are Saturdays - 
    till 5 I believe. Closed on Sundays.
    
    Bill
    

    A few details about Green's Marine which I have observed this week:
    
    First, it is Green's Marine (and not Greene's)
    Secondly, it is more like 7-8 miles north of I-93
    Thirdly, it is on both U.S. Rte 3 and N.H. Rte 28. Those two routes
    split about a mile further up the road.
    
    Bill
    

    
    
    A question I could use a few suggestions on!!!
    
     I picked up a canoe last fall and now I have to figure out how to get
    it to the lakes here in Colorado! I have a 3/4 ton pickup on whick I
    have a popup camper, also it has a small lift and 33 inch tires.
     I would like to be able to put the canoe on top of the camper and haul
    it around to some high country lakes, this means that the rig would
    have to with stand gravel roads and some bouncing. Being new to the
    canoe hauling in this manner I was wondering if anyone had some
    suggestions or new of a rig to be able to put this on and off the
    camper without a ladder?
    
     Thanks
       Dave

 Sounds rather easy to me. Attach a trailer hitch and get a bobcat with 
 a hoist crane option and a trailer.
 When you get to the lake unhook the trailer, pull forward hop on the bobcat
 extend the crane and remove the canoe. Repeat process in reverse to place
 the canoe back on Bigfoot.

 - Dave

 

       Dave,

	How high is your truck? I assume the pop-up means you cannot
place the canoe directly on the camper. How about one of those pipe
type frames in both sets of stack pockets. I've seen them used above
fiberglass truck caps (Toppers in Colorado, right?). Unless the
truck is unusually high, I'd think you could place one end of the canoe
up on the frame at the rear of the truck, then run a painter line around the
truck to the nose and pull the canoe up over the truck into place. yes?

Rick

    
    RICK
    
     The truck top sits bewteen 9 and 10 feet in the air with the camper
    down. I thought about some kind of stakes for the pockets but the
    camper also goes out over the pockets. Most times I'm only going a
    couple hours away so the canoe would be unloaded before putting the camper
    up.
    
    I need something that would allow me and my S.O. to load and unload,
    she's only about five four, so we need something that would let her
    help without being bulky.
    
    
     Thanks
      Dave
     

Dave,
    
>     The truck top sits bewteen 9 and 10 feet in the air with the camper
>    down. I thought about some kind of stakes for the pockets but the
>    camper also goes out over the pockets. Most times I'm only going a

	I guess I missed on crucial point in my last reply.... The 
racks/frames that I've seen on pickups with caps don't go directly
into the stake pockets. Instead the vertical, upright poles run down
the outside of the cap/topper and a tab formed from flat iron is
attached to the bottom of the upright pole. This tab fits between the
cap/topper and the truck's bed rails, then (I assume) into the stake
pocket. Although, I suppose it could simply be bolted to the truck
rails underneath the cap.

	9-10 feet should be doable in the method I described before,
I would think... As long as the canoe is at least 12 feet long...

	Hmmmmm... the camper up/down thing may be a problem, cuz if
you construct this rack at the 9-10 foot level then it's gotta be moved
out of the way in order to put the camper top up..... Although, I have
also seen these racks where the cross pieces (from side to side) are
removable. They just slide down over the uprights and just the opposite
to remove them.

Rick

ps. Are you sure you don't want to tow a trailer? You could build one to
match the truck... 33 inch tires, lift kit! Funky...

Dave,
    
>     The truck top sits bewteen 9 and 10 feet in the air with the camper
>    down. I thought about some kind of stakes for the pockets but the
>    camper also goes out over the pockets. Most times I'm only going a


	Just as an FYI,if the truck sits at 9-10 feet, the rack above plus
 the canoe...... You are sitting dangerously close to the max clearance of
 your friendly bridge/underpass........

	I almost did something like this to my Blazer with 4" lift, 35" tires
 lightbar  pulling into a parking garage..... Could have ended up with a
 convertible the hard way..... Heck, truck drivers do this occasionly and their
 supposed to be trained ;-(..........

	The matching trailer sounds safer and easier to load....... I believe
 that they sell extended itches to allow for the camper........


	Norm