Conference vicki::boats

    
    I would check automotive type places/catalogs.  I would
    imagime that you could find many options.
    Parts stores, auto detailing, or auto painting places 
    could be a places to try.  I would think the adhesives
    would be similar.   I have never tried this but if it is
    an inexpensive option then it might be worth it if other
    sourses are not available or overly expensive. 
    (ie: marine tape = auto tape but is 3X in price).
    
    As far as appyling over the old,  I would think you would 
    want to get rid of what ever is loose,  use reasonable measures
    with proper solvents(?) to remove other tape,  and then if the 
    old tape is not too thick just apply over it.  This is what was 
    done on my Blazer when I had it re-stripped.  The problem is that 
    you may get ridges in the new tape at points where you go from 
    covering old tape to covering bare fiberglass.   
    I guess it all depends on how perfect you want it to look and
    how much you want to pay.  I'm sure just about anything can be
    done for a price $$$.
    
    Mike
                                  

    I just got a boat name done in vinyl lettering.  This was made by Gath
    signs in Tewksbury (851-4373).  It was reasonably easy to install:
    Clean surface, he recommended using Bonami cleaner, This is the same
    stuff my Mother used to clean windows years ago, powder.  I couldn't
    find the powder and I used the solid bar (like soap) and it worked
    fine.  Just follow the directions on the package.
    
    I asked about solvents but he said this is the stuff he has found the
    best.  I believe it has a mild abrasive in it and it removes oils and
    waxes.  He does most of his work on trucks and construction equipment
    and if it cleans them it's good enough for me.
    
    He cut this name out using a computer with different fonts to choose
    from.  I believe that he or some other simular business could get the
    correct size striping that you need.  He had many color charts to
    choose from.
    
    Gordon

    
    It will come off easy with some heat.  A paint remover heat type
    gun will do it. Before everyone jump on the CAUTION bandwagon,
    
    I'm not suggesting you apply heat until the gel coat melts,
    just warm up the old tape and peel it off. Get it started
    and keep the heat in front of the peeling tape and keep pulling.
    
    Use gasoline to remove the gooey and gummy, and the wash off the 
    gasoline residue with soap and water...
    
    Putting new tape over the old may not look right...
    
    Jim.

  The best avaible Pinstriping tape is 3-M.  It is available at autovotive
type stores, or a store specializing in automotive paint/auto-body supplies.  

  I am not sure what the difference between automotive and marine striping 
tape is, if any.  I do know that I put some 3-M tape on a boat trailer about a 
year ago, and it's holding up fine.
 
  On trick that was alluded to in a previous reply;  use Windex (glass cleaner)
to ease application.  This allows you to move the tape around until you get it
right, or until the glass cleaner evaporates.  Sprey glass cleaner on the tape,
as well as the area to which the decal (tape) is to be applied.  Use a plastic 
body puddy applicator to squeeze out any bubbles that may get under the tape.  
Then let it dry for at least 24 of more hours.

Matt

    I recently got a set of boat registration numbers from one of the
    places which do vinyl boat names/graphics. They were really easy to put
    on since they come on one sheet, already spaced. They recommend
    spraying the back (sticky side) of the sheet with a mixture of a little
    dishwashing detergent and water (they even include a little spray
    bottle for this purpose). This allows the sheet to be moved around.
    Then as .-1 says you use a plastic squeegee to roll out any bubbles. 
    Then let it sit for 45 minutes (might not have to do this with the
    tape) and peel off the backing paper which keeps it all in alignment.
    Let it dry 24 hours and wash off the soap residue. It came out very
    well and was very quick and easy with no alignment problems. I got the
    registration numbers this way since I wanted red letters on the black
    hull and I could only find black or white individual letters. All the
    rest of the boat hull trim is red and the Vermont DMV said red would be
    OK since it only needs to be "contrasting". This place will make
    letters or any other graphic in any color you wish.
    
    BTW, I have also heard from some knowledgeable auto body folks that 3M
    tape is by far the best. You may have to look around, however.
    
    Larry

    
    Arn't you guys talking about 2 different things.
    
    The 3m tape has a glue applied to its back and will stick to???
    on application.
    
    the vinyl letters have a glue which needs wetting and subsequent
    drying to work..
    
    won't wetting the 3m tape ruin it?????
    
    JIm.

JIm,
I believe the vinyl letters that were mentioned are the self stick type
and can be applied without wetting.  But you CAN wet them with either
soapy water or Windex to make application easier.  First you have to 
remove the paper backing or the lettering *will* be ruined.  Using the 
soapy water allows you to slide the lettering or striping around to get
the perfect position.  Once they're in place, you use a squeegee to force
out the bubbles and excess soap and water, and in 24 hours they will be 
as firmly in place as if you applied them dry.

Body shops do this all the time, especially to apply that "fake wood" on
the side of station wagons, which have a lot of surface area to work the 
bubbles out of.

Rick

    The vinyl letters I used are indeed the self-stick kind, the soapy
    water was specified in the instructions and if you did not use it you
    would only have one chance to get them straight. 
    
    In terms of the stripes, however, when I was in Orlando in March my
    father and I took a tour of the Regal boat plant near the airport.
    During the tour we watched someone actually applying tape to the hulls
    moving down the assembly line. He did it the same way as specified with
    my vinyl letters. He peeled the thin backing paper off, sprayed the
    hull from a spray bottle (I do not know what was in it), applied the
    tape, squeegeed it, and then removed the heavier paper covering the
    front of the tape. I saw him do several stripes, he was really good at
    it (nothing like plenty of practice!). One technique which really
    appeared to help get the tape straight with few undulations was that 
    he would secure one end using, I think, masking tape, and then unroll
    about 10 feet of tape, holding it away from the boat. He then sighted
    down the tape and moved the free end gradually towards the hull surface
    as the tape made contact down the 10 foot length from the original
    end he secured. He would secure that new spot and take another 8-10
    foot length of tape and do it again. If it was not right he could pull
    the whole length off again and retry it. He did not go back and fuss
    with it much after contact. This was probably due to him being very
    good at it, and probably the more fussing, the more chance for a wavy
    tape line. He used an Xacto knife and straightedge to do all the
    cutting
    
    I would guess that the windex or soapy water interferes with the
    adhesive only until squeegeed out and it dries, at which time the
    adhesive makes good contact.
    
    Larry
    spot and then  

    Jim,
    
    I have a 1/2 inch strip of hot pink on my Chris Craft. I was able to
    order a 100ft roll of the stuff from my local Robbins Auto Supply
    house. This is the tape from 3M and it has worked very well. It has
    been on the boat for two years now and you can't tell where I patched a
    few dings up. I understand the national distributor supplying Robbins
    Auto is out of Detroit. They sent me a roll of the tape, but they
    preferred I go through the retail channels.
    
    You will want to remove the old tape before you apply the new. The
    suggestion of applying heat to soften it up is correct. Any average
    hair dryer will upt out enough heat to soften the tape, but not damage
    the gel.
    
    Good luck
    Harlan