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Conference vicki::boats

Title:Powerboats
Notice:Introductions 2 /Classifieds 3 / '97 Ski Season 1267
Moderator:KWLITY::SUTER
Created:Thu May 12 1988
Last Modified:Wed Jun 04 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1275
Total number of notes:18109

966.0. "OMC I/O Electric shift tilt problem" by MR4DEC::DCADMUS (happiness is a bigger boat) Wed Apr 22 1992 11:03

    
    
    I have an older electric shift OMC I/O, and have been having a problem
    with the tilt mechanism that is driving me crazy.
    
     The lower unit will not tilt up.  I have ample power/correct voltage
    to the tilt motor. 
    Here's what I have done to date:
    
    1:
    I replaced the tilt motor, even though the old one
    checked out good. 
    
    2: I removed the lower unot and cleaned u/ lubed the ppivots> I ched
    the big segment gear for binding- all is nice and free.
    
    3. I removed, cleaned/ched the worm and bevel gear and bearings.
    replaced the pininon seal. Everything seems ok. I had a spare 
    intermeddiate housing, and I replaced all the internals in the worm
    drive.
    
    4. Motor/gears turn freely whe lower not connected. LOTS of torque on
    the pinion gear
    
    Dealer says "Motor is NG"- BS- I had BOTH motors tested and the torge
    available at the pion gear attest to the fact that tehre is lots of
    torgeu available.
    
     ANybody have any thoughts ? A new motor is $150 (discounted price),
    dealer wants $250 + labor to install
    
    Dick
    
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966.1memories are made of thisAPACHE::URBANWed Apr 22 1992 17:5219
    Boy do I remember that...I had similar problems;  The unit would
    tilt down ok but not come up.  Ajustment in two areas solved the
    problem.
    
    The first was the amount of torque used to fasten the motor (it used
    the long through bolts of the motor itself) to the work gear housing.
    THese should not be 'too tight'.  The second, and I believe the most
    crucial, was the tightness of the cover on the worm housing where the
    right-angle takeoff seats.  This is the 5 or 6 bolt outboard cover
    with the raised center cap that forms a bearing for the end of the
    right angle shaft.  If I tightened that cover to spec tilt would stop
    working.  back it off so it is just snug and it would work again.
    I ended up tightening it gradually until it stopped working then
    backing off a half turn or so. 
    
    If I didnt describe it well enough give me a call and I'll try to
    explain it mobeta.
    
                                    Tom  (264-4967)
966.2Now That You Mention it..............MR4DEC::DCADMUShappiness is a bigger boatMon Apr 27 1992 08:5218
    
    Thanks, Tom-
    
     I had the unit off- motor worked ok. BUT- I did have troble with the
    cover. And I ended up adding a second gasket. IT was lots better- it
    just dawned on me whatthe problem might be- Our Siamese cat was
    "helping" me when I had the unit torn down. I ended up missing the 
    spacer or thrust washer on the end of the pinoon shaft. I had a spare
    "junker" Outdrive, so I used that washer. I'll have to chech the book,
    the may be selective fits abd I have one that's too thick.
    
     Later found the washer that was missing On the helm chair. Apparenlty
    my "helper" carried it up there.
    
     I'm buried in Decworld- plan to get to ot this coming weekend.
    
     Dick
    
966.3Problem found and solved.MR4DEC::DCADMUShappiness is a bigger boatMon Jul 27 1992 15:3422
    
     Justc to let everybody know the results. I finally found one of the
    terminals on the connector to th emtor was not crimped tightly. I
    soldered it and the motor worked, but very weak- it finally got the
    drive up. While I was in Fla tow weeks ago, my doughter was using the
    boat and - no "up". I changed the motor- (witha spare) - same problem.
    Voltages checked out good at the newly soldered connector. Finaal
    tooked a close look (very hard to do because of space limitations
    with the FWC heat exchanger) at the connector that had bee soldered-
    it was a push- on type of blade connector. The female half was badly
    corroded and the brass had lost it's tension (apparently from the heat
    during previous problems). I cut the d)(&*&%# thing off and crimped on
    new connectors on both wires- plugged it in and---Moves like a
    turpentined cat. 
    
     My voltage checks didn't catch it because I was checing at the supply
    side of the terminal and not on the mating half , because of access.
    
     One beenfit out of all this is that now I am good at getting a motor
    in and out without having the end plate/brush assembly fall out. since
    the motor is loosely assembeld and not bolted together. The bolts that
    hold the motor into the ghousing also hold all the pieces together.